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Table for an aquarium from a metal corner. Do-it-yourself installation of a curbstone for an aquarium

Beautiful fish in the aquarium want to admire adults and children. The natural desire of every person with such structures and aquatic inhabitants is to enjoy beauty for the longest possible time, to do everything so that the container lasts as long as possible. This factor largely depends on the strength and reliability of the installation of the structure. It is for this reason that the topic of this article will be a consideration of the question of how to make a cabinet for an aquarium with your own hands.

The manufacture of such a piece of furniture should be given special attention. It should carry not only a functional load, but also a decorative one.

Photo cabinets under the aquarium for different volumes

On this moment almost never meet such a home aquarium that stands on the floor surface. In most cases, the design is firmly mounted on a stand, which is referred to as a cabinet. The choice and design features directly depend on the volume of an existing aquarium or one that is planned to be purchased.

Before proceeding with the development of a cabinet project, it is worth considering such important points as the correct dimensions, the ability to withstand the imposed loads, and also be as comfortable as possible during use and resistant to moisture.

For 50 liters

It is clear that a small container, the volume of which is 15 liters, can be installed on a standard table. For all other containers, the volume of which is above 50 liters, it is advisable to organize a cabinet for an aquarium. Furniture is not made in the form of a regular chest of drawers, which is sold in the respective stores, you need to make a special stand.

For 60 liters

A similar version of the stand is not much different from the 50-liter one. These two types and categories of construction can be done without any problems with your own hands. If you make furniture yourself, you can solve a large number of issues:

  • Design customization;
  • Optimal match with the overall interior solution;
  • Accurate calculation of the strength level;
  • Product quality and reliability.

Having completed the stand on his own, the master can be sure that it will last a considerable amount of time and will not cause any trouble to its owner.

per 100 liters

If you plan to install a fish tank with a volume of 60 to 100 liters indoors, you should make a nightstand for an aquarium not only of high quality, but also of reliability and durability. Neglecting this rule will lead to the fact that after a certain time the surface will bend quite strongly. Each even the most insignificant deflection over time can lead to breakage not only of furniture, but of the glass structure, with all the ensuing consequences.

For 200 liters

To avoid structural failure, so that the aquarium does not crack or burst, you will need to make a 200-liter structure equipped with a large number of vertically arranged supports. They will not allow the tabletop to bend.

For 300 liters

For the manufacture of a structure designed to install such a large aquarium, you should pay attention to the quality of the material. The countertop of a 300-liter container should be made of a material that is resistant to moisture. This is an important requirement, since in the process of washing glasses and installed equipment, accidental spills cannot be avoided, which will lead to deformation of the surface and its gradual failure. The best option would be to use a quality MDF sheet or standard chipboard.

Curbstones for an aquarium photo with dimensions

Before you start working on creating a cabinet for a 100 liter aquarium, you should carefully develop a project based on photos and sketches. It is equally important to carry out preliminary calculations. There are several rules for determining design features:

  1. For the reason that it is more comfortable to watch the fish in a sitting position, the optimal height is 70 cm.
  2. Horizontal parameters are calculated solely by the total width and entire length of the reservoir.
  3. The back side and stand are made of MDF or more affordable chipboard, the thickness level of which is 22 mm. The rear wall carries the load of the vertical baffles that provide strength, preventing them from breaking under the weight of the container.
  4. The framework consists of the located partitions. They should be installed every 40 cm. The larger the volume of the container, the smaller the distance should be located between the partitions.
  5. The tabletop is one of the most important details. The element must be very durable, even and resistant to moisture. If you plan to put on a table with a capacity of 150 liters or more, the best option will use countertops with a thickness of more than 22 mm.

The layout of the future curbstone for an aquarium of 50 liters should be based on the size of the future aquarium. Professionals recommend creating a design where the countertop will completely match the size of the glass container or be slightly larger. In the second case, it will be enough to make an excess of 1-2 cm, unnecessary centimeters are completely unnecessary.
Having decided on the dimensions and overall dimensions of the future decorative reservoir, you can begin to draw up a drawing.

Drawings of different volumes of the bedside table for the aquarium

When performing any structure made of metal or wood, you need to rely on pre-compiled drawings and diagrams. In fact, this is a special scheme that reflects the ratio of sizes, the location of built-in shelves and openings. This will greatly facilitate the process of translating the drawing into reality.

When drawing up a drawing on your own, it is important to pay attention to the presence of not only such elements as internal partitions, but such useful functional elements as:

  • Shelves;
  • Stands for an external high-quality filter;
  • Plot for an electrical network extension cord;
  • Shelves for storing numerous aquarium accessories.

When calculating the required materials, it is recommended to take into account that, unlike bedside elements or storage cabinets, the 300 liter aquarium cabinet must have a very strong back side. During operation, the bulk of the load will be assigned to it. To further increase the reliability of the design, it is recommended to make the panel not solid, but made of individual elements. They will need to be embedded between special internal and side-going partitions.

At the preparatory stage, it is worth considering the option of decorative finishing of the structure. Here you need to rely only on the taste of the master and on the desired effect. The level of reliability is not taken into account. In direct proportion to individual desire and aspiration, you can add carving elements, you can use a special canvas for an attractive decoration of a pedestal with dimensions suitable for a pond.

How to make a cabinet with your own hands under the aquarium?

Having at your disposal an exact design scheme, having determined what basics will be required, it is necessary to translate what was conceived into reality. So that the process of creating a structure does not take much time, so that the result is a unique design in all respects, you should rely on the sequence of actions presented to your attention:

  1. Preparing details. Sawing into chipboard panel parts can be done independently, you can contact a special furniture and woodworking workshop. By paying a little money, you can get not only a cut of the material, but also special edges in the cut areas.
  2. The assembly of the curbstone for an aquarium of 60 liters is required to begin exclusively with the installation of the side walls and the back side. This will be the base of the structure. Vertical walls must be connected with clamps. After that, all corners are carefully verified and the compliance with the design dimensions is specified. It is necessary to carefully align all the corners, it is impossible to allow at least some deviations from the previously developed drawing to form. It is worth knowing that the roll is small, one degree can lead to serious distortion and deformation of the entire structure as a whole and automatically of the aquarium. In the process of choosing a suitable drill for the door, you need to rely on the size of the selected confirmation minus one mm.
  3. Wall fastening. For this purpose, it is recommended to use confirmat or euro-screws-screeds. The implementation of the screed is carried out exclusively with a screwdriver. After collecting the main box, all vertical partitions corresponding to the project are mounted.
  4. Table attachment. This is the crucial moment of the assembly process. You need to fasten it so that in the process of drilling holes in the fasteners, it does not move. First, two through holes are made, and if the element lies correctly, other holes can be drilled around the entire perimeter. This approach will avoid not only shortcomings, but the need to waste time drilling extra and completely unnecessary holes.
  5. Doors. It is desirable to fasten them with ordinary furniture overhead hinges and it is desirable to install closers. They will allow the doors to open and close correctly and softly enough. At this stage, the installation of the horizontal shelves and built-in drawers provided for in the drawing is carried out. If the drawers are sliding, you need to properly fix all the guides used.
  6. Holes of a special technological plan. After assembly work, holes are cut out in the back side for wires and various hoses. If the arrangement plan has been planned very clearly, this process can be carried out in advance. In all other cases, holes can be made at the completion of the work carried out.
  7. The basis of a curbstone under an aquarium of 200 liters. It is advisable to install the structure on special stands made of thickened metal. They can be found and bought in salons. You need to screw such legs under the main vertical partitions. This will effectively distribute the weight. It is worth putting heel pads on the fixed legs to avoid scratching the floor surfaces when moving the structure.

After carrying out these works, the cabinet can be installed in place. Here you also need to make some efforts so that the bedside table takes a place that is fully consistent with the space of the room. To ensure moisture resistance of the countertop, when installing the structure under the container, it is necessary to lay a material that is similar in properties and characteristics to a building laminate.

It is important to ensure that the floor surface where the aquarium will stand is as flat as possible. Otherwise, all the efforts of the master will be nullified. Due to the fact that the weight of the finished bedside table with the capacity already installed on it will weigh like a monumental product, the place for installation should be thought out in advance. It is very important to take into account the presence of ordinary sockets. No need to install near windows, balcony doors and sleeping quarters.

Video about creating a curbstone for an aquarium

To simplify the process of making the stand to the maximum, to avoid possible mistakes and shortcomings, it is worth studying the video below on how to make a cabinet. Information is provided on how to prepare workplace what material should be used, in what places to mount. After watching this video, you can understand what size of the panel you need to use for a glass container of a certain size.

Summing up

Starting to solve the question of how to make a cabinet for an aquarium with your own hands, you should be prepared for the fact that the purchase necessary materials, creating a project and cutting out elements will take a lot of time. As for the assembly of the structure, the home master can complete the entire workflow in just three to four hours.

The cost of the finished product for the aquarium will be much lower than the purchased one. In this case, you can achieve full compliance with personal preferences in terms of size and interior solutions. The information in this article will allow you to make the cabinet as durable and functional as possible.

The aquarium is considered a fairly popular design that allows you to decorate the room and enjoy the beautiful view of beautiful and calm fish. It is important to provide him proper care, and at the same time it is certainly determined where exactly the product will be located. It can be on the floor if it is large, but a small design is usually purchased. For her, a do-it-yourself cabinet for an aquarium is most often made, since purchased models are expensive. When working independently, you can choose what material will be used, what dimensions the cabinet will have, and other important issues are also resolved.

Making a pedestal for an aquarium requires the preliminary creation of a drawing and an assessment of the requirements that apply to it. The aquarium is always filled with water, and it can contain from 100 to 300 liters of water, so the cabinet on which it will be installed must easily cope with such a significant load so that there is no possibility of falling.

Before creating such a cabinet, the requirements for it are certainly taken into account:

  • must easily cope with the planned loads, so you should first decide whether an aquarium of 200 liters or more will be installed, and it is recommended to make a product that can withstand a little more load than the weight of the aquarium;
  • there must be special reinforcing elements that are installed vertically under the cover, which ensures that there is no sagging;
  • if a large-sized aquarium of 200 liters or more is chosen, then a metal frame is certainly made, which takes most of the load from the structure;
  • the attractive appearance of the bedside table is an important parameter, so it should fit well into the interior and have an interesting design.

The most popular materials for creating such a bedside table yourself are chipboard, natural wood or MDF, and if the aquarium is too heavy, then a special frame made of durable metal is additionally made.

If the capacity of the aquarium does not exceed 100 liters, then the use of plywood and wooden bars is considered optimal, so materials are prepared for work:

  • wooden bars;
  • plywood, moreover, in order for the cabinet for the aquarium to be strong and durable, it is recommended to choose sheets with a thickness of 10 mm or more;
  • self-tapping screws, and fasteners designed to work with wood are considered the best choice;
  • waterproof paint, and you need to make sure that there are no harmful substances in the composition, since the product coated with this material will be used in a residential area;
  • decorative rail;
  • varnish and drying oil.

Often, even a nightstand designed for installing an aquarium is equipped with various additional elements, such as shelves or drawers, and in this case, you should choose high-quality, attractive and reliable fittings that will be convenient to use.

Bar blanks

Chipboard boards

Racks and crossbars

Drawing preparation

Before direct work, it is important to make a special drawing, according to which all stages of the process are implemented. If you do not have the skills to independently draw up a drawing and diagram, then you can use special programs, and it is also possible to find suitable ready-made drawings.

During the creation of the drawing, the main questions regarding the future design are resolved:

  • dimensions, and they must be optimal so that you can easily install an aquarium of a certain shape and dimensions on the product;
  • shape, as it can be a standard pedestal or corner, as well as triangular, rectangular or asymmetric;
  • height, and it is desirable to choose this parameter in such a way that the process of cleaning and changing the water in the aquarium is simple and does not require removing the product from the stand.

After the drawing is completely ready, you can proceed to the direct process of creating such a bedside table.

Part preparation

How to make a cabinet for an aquarium? The procedure begins with the preparation of different parts of this design, which will then be attached to each other. The process of creating parts is divided into stages:

  • in accordance with the drawing, patterns are applied to the paper, which are then carefully cut out;
  • they are firmly attached to sheets of plywood or other material chosen for this work;
  • marking is applied to the material;
  • using a jigsaw or other tool, all the details are cut out;
  • stiffening ribs are prepared, which can be metal or wooden, and their height should be optimal for use, so they often have to be cut or filed.

In the process of preparing parts, a previously made scheme is certainly used to be sure that there are no errors, and also to prevent distortions. To guarantee the perfect result of the work, it is recommended to take into account some advice from experts:

  • holes are certainly made in the back wall through which electrical cords and a hose will be supplied to the aquarium, and such a solution guarantees a neat design that will not have ugly details;
  • stiffening ribs are certainly made, which are mounted along the entire length of the bedside table, and it is desirable to leave a distance between them of 40 cm, and their main purpose is to give the entire structure reliability, therefore, even under significant loads, it will not bend;
  • a sufficiently large distance is left between the doors and the countertop, because if the bedside table still cannot withstand serious pressure, then a situation may arise when the top sags a little, so it will not even be possible to simply open the door to gain access to the internal contents of this piece of furniture;
  • if you plan to install a really heavy aquarium, then it is advisable not to make legs for the stand and not attach it to the wheels, so it is installed on a hard and even surface, on which a rubber or foam mat is laid in advance;
  • do-it-yourself cabinet for an aquarium is standardly equal in height from 60 to 70 cm.

In order for the design to be not only durable, but also attractive, it is recommended to sheathe it with a natural array, plastic panels or other decorative materials.

If you plan to use wooden panels, but pre-gluing and sanding is required

PVC edge

Assembly

The next step in creating an aquarium product is to assemble the resulting elements, which are constituent parts designs. This process is considered quite specific, therefore it is recommended to use the help of a second person, since it will be necessary to hold certain heavy objects for a long time on weight, and it is impossible to perform these actions alone.

The entire assembly process consists in the implementation of sequential actions:

  • special grooves and ridges are prepared for the back wall, for which they are cut with a saw or an electric jigsaw;
  • the same elements for fasteners are made in the bottom of the future bedside table, in its sides and lid;
  • two parts of the upper corner of the back of the product are glued together, and the resulting workpiece will be mounted behind a special module designed to create high-quality illumination;
  • the slats are pulled together with clamps, after which you have to wait until they are completely dry;
  • special socle bars are screwed to the bottom of the bedside table, and for their formation it is recommended to use high-quality and properly dried wooden bars, the thickness of which will be more than 40 mm, since it is on them that the entire cabinet with a heavy aquarium will rest;
  • plates are screwed to the inner sides of the side walls, designed to fix the middle cover;
  • the front edges of each part must be installed in such a way that they are level with the edge of the middle cover and the bottom of the product;
  • then the inner central partition is taken, which is glued to the middle cover and bottom;
  • the back wall is inserted into the corresponding groove of the bottom;
  • one side wall is attached to the bottom, after which it is also fixed to the middle cover, for which dowels and high-quality glue are used;
  • the back wall is connected to the side wall using the existing grooves and spikes;
  • a corner is attached to the top of the sidewall, for which dowels planted on glue are also used;
  • it is on this corner that the upper part of the product will rest;
  • the second side of the nightstand is attached in the same way;
  • the following steps involve assembling the top box of the structure;
  • an interesting backlight is installed in it;
  • the resulting box is fixed to the bedside table, and for this it is recommended to use piano hinges, as they make it possible in the future to simply fold this box if necessary.

Thus, building a special bedside table designed for an aquarium is quite simple, and this process does not take much time if you approach it really responsibly. It is allowed to use other materials during work, and the procedure will be similar, but the methods of preparing different parts will differ.

Connection of blanks

You need to make holes for the screws first.

Leg mounting

The frame must be impregnated with drying oil

Shelf holders from plywood scraps

Holders are attached to the inside of the legs

The bottom is a hard plywood sheet.

We insert shelves

The structure is covered with waterproof paint

Installation

The resulting bedside table, designed for the aquarium and having high strength and stability, must be correctly installed, for which it is important to determine the optimal location for it. Additionally, the site where this structure will be located is certainly prepared. For this, the following actions are performed:

  • the place is carefully prepared, for which it is important to make sure that it is perfectly flat and resistant to high loads;
  • the site is cleaned and leveled if necessary, since even minor transitions are not allowed;
  • direct sunlight should not fall on the selected area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room;
  • the necessary equipment for the aquarium is purchased in advance, which includes a filter, compressor and heater;
  • a rubber mat or other lining is laid on the prepared area that can withstand significant impacts;
  • the product is being installed.

Thus, it is important not only to take care of creating a quality bedside table, but also to prepare a place for its installation.

Door installation

Bedside tables are often created with drawers or compartments inside. To gain access to them, you should make high-quality and easy-to-use doors. The whole process of their installation is divided into stages:

  • blanks are made for doors, for which the best choice there will be a purchase of a carpentry shield, and the size of the doors must correspond to the dimensions of the resulting workpiece;
  • for loops, markings are applied under the nests;
  • holes are made according to the size;
  • the doors are fixed to the hinges on the side of the bedside table, for which it is desirable to use four hinges;
  • Handles are attached to the doors, making them easy to open and close.

Doors can be created from other materials, and it is advisable to pay attention to their decoration so that the facade of the nightstand looks really attractive and interesting.

An aquarium is a great invention, which is not only a great addition to any interior, but also has a beneficial effect on the mood of the residents of the house. you can arrange an aquarium and populate it with such inhabitants as you wish.

However, it is important not only to think over the design of an artificial home aquasphere, but also to prepare a place for its installation. An excellent solution to this problem will be a curbstone for an aquarium with your own hands. Of course, you can buy it ready-made, but a homemade nightstand is more preferable, because. You can make it exactly the size you need and save extra money.

In this case, it will be considered how to make a curbstone for an aquarium, having 106 cm in height, 1 m in width and 45 cm in depth. you can adjust its dimensions to the dimensions of your aquarium, this will not affect the operation in any way.

This aquarium cabinet will have 2 hinged doors and a top folding box. This box will have a built-in backlight. The box itself is attached to the side walls of the nightstand. It is much easier to make a do-it-yourself cabinet for an aquarium if you have previously drawn up a drawing indicating all the structural elements and overall dimensions. You can refer to the finished drawing shown in the following image: Fig. 1.

The aquarium bedside table can be made of wood chipboard, MDF or laminated chipboard.

Non-laminated materials must not be used.

Moisture from the container will inevitably fall on the nightstand when you add water, catch fish, etc. Under the influence of moisture, non-laminated surfaces deteriorate quite quickly. As a result, the aquarium itself may be damaged. For the same reason, the interfaces of all parts, the ends and all kinds of sockets with fasteners must be varnished several times.

Prepare the tools that will allow you to make a bedside table for the aquarium:

  • milling machine;
  • circular saw;
  • clamps;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill.

If you want to make a cabinet for an aquarium that will retain its original characteristics for many years, do not spare money on quality materials and accessories. Buy the following:

  • joinery plate 18 mm thick, shelves and walls will be made from it;
  • the same plate, but 38 mm thick, you will use it to create load-bearing elements;
  • piano loop;
  • decorative wax (furniture varnish is possible);
  • wooden dowels;
  • self-tapping screws and screws;
  • handles for cabinet doors;
  • wood glue.

Take your own or previously presented finished drawing and saw the boards into blanks of the required dimensions. Use a circular saw for this. With the same tool you will make ridges and grooves for mates. The main load will fall on the side walls of the structure, so they must be made from a board with a thickness of at least 38 mm.

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Beginning of work

By following these simple rules, you will make an excellent aquarium cabinet that will serve you for many years and will be easy to use. First of all, keep in mind that there should be holes in the back wall of the structure. Electrical cords and hoses of external filters will pass through them.

The curbstone must have stiffening ribs. They are installed in increments of 40 cm along the length of the structure. The stiffening ribs will make the structure more durable, and it will not sag. An aquarium with all its contents will put a lot of pressure on the cabinet. If you do not follow the following recommendation, then you simply will not be able to open the doors, because. they will be sandwiched between the bottom and top of the nightstand. To prevent this from happening, make a gap a few millimeters wide between the doors and the top cover of the nightstand.

If you plan to install a very heavy aquarium on a homemade pedestal, then it is better to make it without legs and put it on a perfectly flat surface, laying foam, linoleum or a rubber mat.

The standard height of the cabinet for the aquarium is 600-700 mm. Try not to deviate from this value. The top of the cabinet should be the same length as the aquarium, and even better - protrude a little. 5-10 mm on each side will be enough. Most often, laminated chipboard is used to make home-made bedside tables, because. This material normally tolerates moisture. The countertop can be taken from an old kitchen set, and shelves and doors from an unnecessary closet. To prevent the board from delamination over time, cover its edges with melamine edging.

Instead of chipboard, you can use a natural array as a sheathing. It must first be treated with sandpaper and varnished. Natural wood has a longer service life, because. it tolerates moisture much better.

The interior of the aquarium cabinet can be put to good use. Install several shelves for various little things. If you are making doors (and this is highly desirable), buy handles and awnings in advance. On the shelves it will be possible to store all kinds of accessories for the care of the aquarium and its inhabitants.

Before you start assembling the cabinet for the aquarium, be sure to check the condition and make sure that the floor is even in the place where you are going to put the finished cabinet. If everything is fine with him, you can get to work. If the floor is uneven, then you will have to level it or choose a more suitable surface for installing the aquarium.

If your aquarium weighs relatively little, you can equip the nightstand with legs that can be adjusted in height. This will also resolve the issue.

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Step by step assembly instructions

To make the work go faster and more fun, invite an assistant. In the process of assembling the pedestal, many parts will need to be held on weight and connected at the same time, so an extra pair of hands will definitely not hurt you.

Take a saw and prepare the ridges and grooves for the back wall of the nightstand in the middle cover, sides and bottom of the structure. Also, grooves must be made in the blanks of the upper box. This is best done with a circular saw. If this is not available, a milling machine will do.

Take 2 pieces of the upper corner of the back wall and glue them together. This corner will be installed behind the backlight module. Take the clamps, pull off the planks and let dry. Screw the plinth bars to the bottom of the future bedside table. Use bars with a thickness of 38 mm. They will have a finished structure.

Next, you need to screw the 18 mm thick plates to the inner surfaces of the side walls of the homemade bedside table. The middle cover will be installed on these plates. The front edges of the parts must be installed so that they are flush with the edges of the middle cover of the nightstand and its bottom, and the rear edges are flush with the inner edge of the groove for the back cover.

Glue the middle lid and bottom to the inner center baffle. The nightstand should have several internal partitions located at a distance of about 30-40 cm from each other, depending on the length of the tabletop and the weight of the aquarium.

Take the back wall and insert its lower part into the bottom groove. Fasten to the bottom 1 of the side walls. It also needs to be attached to the middle cover. To do this, you will need dowels planted on glue. At the same time, guide the back wall of the cabinet into the groove on the side. Next, you will need to take a corner and attach it to the top of the sidewall using all the same dowels and glue. In the future, the top module of the bedside table will rely on this corner. Do the same with the second side wall of the aquarium cabinet.

The next step is to assemble the top box. Assemble the structure and install the backlight. The part that will face the water must be made of frosted glass. The assembled box is attached to the nightstand with a piano loop, so that in the future it can be easily folded back.

Cut out blanks for doors with dimensions of 433x494 mm from the joiner's shield. Mark the slots for the loops and make holes. Attach the finished doors to the side walls of the bedside table on the hinges using four hinges.

Install a water purification system and a compressor in the nightstand. You can also place the backlight control panel there. All kinds of tubes and wires must be brought out through a 2.5x5 cm groove in the cover. Cover the finished bedside table with several layers of furniture varnish.

Regardless of whether you buy an aquarium or make it yourself, its appearance will not be complete without a pedestal designed specifically for it. It happens that when buying an aquarium you are told that the manufacturer does not offer a cabinet for this model, or when gluing an aquarium at home you face a similar problem: either find the most suitable cabinet in the store, or make it yourself. I will say in advance that there is nothing difficult to make it with your own hands, the main thing is accuracy and adherence to assembly technology, as well as the presence of a small amount of tools.

Here is a little theory on making a cabinet for an aquarium with your own hands, and then an example with a photo report will follow.

Nowadays, cabinets are made from various materials, but laminated chipboard is most often used, it is this material that is most suitable for making cabinets at home. Chipboard of at least 18mm is suitable for us, because. 16mm is already thin. Our cabinet will sometimes come into contact with water, so it is advisable to order high-quality chipboard, for example, from EGGER and edge it with PVC (BETTER ABS) edge.

First you need to make a sketch of your future cabinet on paper, the dimensions should be based on the following parameters:

  • The height of the pedestal should be such that it is convenient for a seated person to view the aquarium, also do not forget that the adjustable legs have a height of 50-100 mm. The curbstone made by me has a height of 600 mm.
  • The width and depth of the pedestal will depend on the similar parameters of the aquarium, the pedestal looks very nice if its countertop is either equal to or slightly larger than the size of the bottom of the aquarium. In my case, the dimensions of the width and depth of the aquarium were 415 and 412 mm, i.e. almost a square, so the tabletop of my cabinet is 420x420 mm, a couple of mm should be given in reserve.

After you have figured out the dimensions of the cabinet, you need to decide the number of internal vertical partitions and doors. It’s not worth it to sweat too much here; for every 30-40 cm of the length of the cabinet, put an additional vertical partition. True, if the depth of the aquarium is about 50 cm, then it is advisable to use chipboard no thinner than 22 mm.

The top of the aquarium deserves special attention, it should evenly distribute the entire load on the bottom of the aquarium and not cause local stresses on the glass. Despite the fact that the aquarium is installed on the countertop through a pad of soft material that contributes to better weight distribution, and the chipboard sheet itself has a relatively flat surface, over time the countertop may sag slightly in the middle. This problem is solved by additional vertical partitions, but for more confidence with an aquarium volume of more than 150 liters, I would advise making a countertop from 22 mm chipboard.

Back wall. It is almost the main difference between an aquarium cabinet and any other cabinet in your home. For the aquarium, it is made ONLY from chipboard, and serves to prevent all your vertical side panels from collapsing like dominoes under the weight of the aquarium and other equipment. I think that the best option is to fix the back wall between the outer side walls, and not on top of them.

Legs. You need to know only one thing about them: not plastic and not thin aluminum. Under aquarium cabinets, it is better to use either steel legs or thick aluminum, and the more of them, the better. In a furniture store, select the strong legs you like and ask the seller for their maximum weight, then calculate the number.

The number of legs should not be less than 2 pieces for each vertical partition.

Having dealt with a little brief theory I will show you a photo report on a do-it-yourself cabinet for an aquarium of 70 liters made by me.

First of all, I figured out the dimensions of the cabinet, 600x420x420.

I made a drawing of a pedestal in the BASIS FURNITURE SHIELD program in order to get the dimensions of all panels from chipboard and quickly calculate the approximate costs for this chipboard. This program can be found on the Internet, it is easy to understand and will help you quickly draw cabinets and cabinets of any design, BUT you can easily do without it!

I went to the nearest furniture factory and ordered chipboard and cutting from them, here is a list of panels:

420x420 2pcs
364x370 1pc
564x390 2pcs
564x364 1pc
558x395 1pc

I also ordered edging with PVC edging, all in all I got 26 dollars.

I received this on the second day. Chipboard decided to take an inexpensive, Ukrainian, 18mm. The cabinet is small, so the design will be simple. I also took some melamine edging, because. there was a desire to finish the hidden surfaces.

The tabletop and bottom of the cabinet were covered with PVC edging on all sides. This was done with a PVC edge, and not with a melamine one, so that random drops of water that fell on the end of the table top and bottom did not soak the chipboard.

The side walls were cut from the front and back sides, in general, only open areas were cut. I didn’t order edging on the back wall, so I decided to trim myself with a melamine edge.

First, cut off the edge ribbon so that at least 2 cm hangs from each side of the chipboard end, fix it with your hand and press it tightly with an iron along the entire length. It is better to use an old Soviet iron with a flat sole without any coatings. I don’t have this, so I was tormented with a new iron.

After having walked with an iron, we immediately draw a rag along the entire length of the edge, pressing it strongly, thus. we squeeze out excess glue, improve the quality of gluing and cool the edge.

We cut off the hanging pieces of the edge on both sides and cut off the excess edge along the entire length. I use an ordinary spatula for this, because. it is not sharp to damage the laminate on the chipboard, but it cuts the paper perfectly, the main thing is to choose the right angle and the edge will be neatly folded with a ribbon.

To achieve maximum quality, you can walk with fine sandpaper on a busk around the perimeter of the gluing. The main thing here is not to rub too much, 2-3 movements with moderate pressure, I use sandpaper with a grit of 300.

After the edge is ready, you can proceed directly to the assembly, this is the tool that will come in handy for us:

  • I harvest confirmations;
  • screwdriver with a nozzle for confirmations;
  • drills for 4.8-5 mm, 7 mm (one confirmed drill can be used);
  • pencil and ruler;
  • corner clamps.

The quality and accuracy of the assembly depends on which assembly sequence you choose. I decided that it would be better to do this: first fasten the side panels and back together, then fix the shelf and only then install the table top and bottom.

I fastened everything with four corner clamps (the clamps cost me only $ 2.5 apiece), while all the walls are fastened with clamps, they can be moved and adjusted, then when everything is accurate and accurate, you can start drilling holes for confirmations.

So that the walls do not sag while I drill them and so that the angle is exactly 90 degrees relative to each other, I inserted the future shelf inside.

I mark the holes for confirmations as follows:

  • indent 100 mm from the edge;
  • 9 mm indent from the end of the chipboard (if the panels overlap flush with each other), in this case my back panel was recessed by 2 mm, so I retreated 11 mm.

First, we drill with a drill at 4.8 to the depth of the confirmation, if the drill is long, then you can wrap it with electrical tape or paper tape to the length of the confirmation + 5mm in reserve. I didn't wrap it. my drill was a little longer than the confirmation. If the hole is less than the length of the confirmation, then you risk damaging the chipboard when screwing it in.

When drilling, be sure to hold the drill vertically over the drilling site so that the drill does not drift to the side and it does not come out through the sidewall of the chipboard.

With a 7 mm drill, we do everything according to technology. For those who have never worked with chipboard and do not know its properties: if you neglect reaming with a 7mm drill, then when screwing in the confirmation, you will split the chipboard and your hand-made cabinet will be damaged.

We tighten everything with confirmations. At the end, remove the clamps. But in the process of drilling, constantly check that the panels do not slip and your entire structure is not warped, because. in the end, it will be too late to fix your aquarium cabinet.

Beauty! Then the hats from euro screws (confirmants) can be covered with plastic plugs or self-adhesive circles, the main thing is that the screws are screwed flush.

If you are not satisfied with this option, there is an alternative assembly method, you can make a cabinet on eccentric ties and dowels, it is more laborious, but at the end there are no traces of any fasteners and other things on the outer walls, the aesthetic appearance is much better than when fastened to confirms .

Many people try to invent all sorts of nonsense and sometimes fasten it to plastic and metal corners. FORGET about plastic and metal corners, they do not give rigidity to the structure, your cabinet with an aquarium will fall apart, if not immediately, then very soon. Even if the curbstone assembled at the corners is strong and durable, then it will never have high rigidity, it will have mobility, unsteadiness, which will only increase with time.

One finished section of the pedestal on which our aquarium will be located.

There is nothing complicated in installing the shelf. First, on the cabinet outside, mark the middle with a pencil, then use a tape measure to set the shelf in the cabinet exactly in the middle and fix it.

I screwed in one confirmation from the sides and 2 confirmations from the back wall. Thanks to this installation of the shelf, the cabinet has become even more rigid.

If you are more interested in practicality, then the shelf can simply be installed on shelf holders and can be removed from the aquarium cabinet at any time.

The upper part of the pedestal, i.e. the table top and bottom are made of the same chipboard, they are also installed in the same way. First, let's throw a chipboard panel on our frame. The design and dimensions of my cabinet are such that the bottom and top protrude 10 mm from the side, 10 mm from the front above the door, the thickness of the door is 18 mm, so the protrusion without a door will be about 30 mm.

Carefully and accurately set our panel on the pedestal, checking all dimensions with a ruler. There is nothing to fix it in this position, even clamps will not help. I did it easier, just sat on the pedestal, so the tabletop did not slip, checked all the dimensions again and started drilling. First, I drilled 2 holes, screwed in confirmations, double-checked again and drilled the remaining holes. The main thing is not to rush, there is a lot of time, I spent 4 hours making such a cabinet with my own hands. The error turned out to be only a couple of millimeters, it is not noticeable to the eye, it also does not affect the characteristics and strength of the cabinet.

I remembered another method that helps out in such situations, we use double-sided tape to accurately set the countertop on the cabinet if it cannot be fixed with anything. After we made the holes, remove the tape and screw in the confirmations.

We do the same on the bottom side.

Now we move on to the process of making the door. I just had 2 overhead GTV hinges with a closer lying around, I gave 1.5 bucks for each. The size of the cup under the loop is 35 mm. Speaking of hinges, they are overhead, inset and semi-overhead, use the search to find what you need.

With such a cutter with a diameter of 35 mm, we will drill cups for hinges. A cutter costs about 10 bucks, but some shops in my city rent them for 2 bucks a day, maybe your store has a similar service. This cutter has a restrictive ring that prevents it from being immersed in the panel deeper than required, but I would not advise you to bring it all the way, because. this ring may slightly damage the chipboard laminate around the cup.

Loops are marked as follows. The center of the cup should be about 100mm from the top and bottom of the door, the distance from the end of the door to the center of the cup should be 21-22mm. Although I once came across non-standard loops where a greater distance was required. After marking with a pencil, I usually drill with a thin drill with a diameter of 1.5 to a shallow depth. This is instead of punching.

Ready cup under the loop.

We insert the loop perpendicular to the end, mark the holes with a pencil. I usually like to double-check the distances from the center of the resulting holes to the end with a ruler, so that they are the same, and then I drill with a drill by 1.5. In chipboard, even before screwing in the screws, it is necessary to drill holes with a thin drill.

This is what the door should look like with the hinges installed.

Before installing the hinges, it is necessary to loosen the screw, which is shown in the photo under the screwdriver, and by moving the striker to the left, set it as in the photo. This will set the minimum clearance.

We attach the door close to the end of the wall where we are going to fix it and circle the holes on the strikers with a pencil. In this case, the door must be set in height quite accurately, because. we will have a maximum of 2 millimeters to “adjust” the height. then we remove the door and in the middle of the obtained outlined ovals we drill a 1.5 mm drill for self-tapping screws.

Then we put the door back on and screw the striker back. We don’t move the door yet, we have the gaps set to a minimum, now we need to adjust the hinges. First, we loosen the screw that is under the screwdriver and move the door aside. I set the gap between the door in this position at the end of the cabinet equal to 33mm, it is very easy to set the gap with a cut of 3 mm fiberboard. Tighten this screw and you can close the door.

Now you need to adjust the skew of the door, this is done with the second screw. There is nothing complicated here, but you have to play around to draw out all the millimeters.

4 legs for an aquarium stand made of thick aluminum and a handle were purchased. The legs cost me $1.8 each, the handle $1. Also 20 screws 4x16 for fixing the legs, they gave me them for free).

I decided to start by installing a handle on the bedside table door. I decided to step back from the top edge of 6 cm, from the side 5 cm, but now I see that the handle is asking for higher, I think 5x5 cm would be ideal. We mark the second hole below at a distance equal to the center distance of the handle, you can ask the seller for it or measure it with a ruler. As always, I first drilled holes with a thin drill, and only then with a 5 mm drill, because. the size of the screws on the handle is M4.

When drilling holes for the handle, it is worth considering a few points:

  • Be sure to double check all dimensions and apply them as accurately as possible, as If you make a mistake even by 2 mm, you can ruin the door.
  • It is desirable to drill holes from the outside, because. at the exit, the drill always leads away a little if you drill with a rune drill and not on a machine.
  • When drilling, ALWAYS place an unnecessary piece of chipboard under the future hole, so the hole will turn out beautiful and neat, if this is not done, then at the exit the drill will break off the laminate with chipboard around the hole and you will get just a terrible sight).

After installing the handles, I proceeded to install the legs. I liked everything about them except for their fastening system, the holes were located on two sides and not on 4, in principle this does not affect strength. I decided to retreat 8 mm from the side and rear edges and 20 mm from the front edge, so as not often knock on them with your feet). Special accuracy when installing the legs is not needed, you can estimate by eye. But I did everything with a ruler). It is recommended to install the legs strictly under the vertical panels, so that the entire load goes directly to them, and not transmitted through the bottom of the cabinet. T.K. the weight of my aquarium is relatively small, I decided to sin a little and moved them a LITTLE towards the middle.

By the way, you probably noticed that on many aquarium cabinets the top and bottom protrude slightly beyond the width of the main frame, this not only improves the aesthetic appearance, but also allows you to properly position the legs under the vertical panels, because if the vertical panel is flush with the end of the bottom, then place the leg it definitely won't work under it.

The legs are fixed with screws, you can turn it over and put it in a permanent place.

Do not forget that before installing the aquarium, the nightstand must not only stand steadily, but also be adjusted in level.

Before installing the aquarium, there was one little thing left. It is impossible to install an aquarium on a pedestal without using a gasket made of soft material that could distribute the load over the entire bottom area. I used a padding that is placed under the floor laminate, it is 3 mm thick, it is quite rigid and is ideal for this purpose. Cut out the size of the countertops and lay them. Now you can set up your aquarium!

Let's calculate the cost of making a cabinet, provided that you already have the necessary tool:

  • Chipboard, cutting and edge - $ 26;
  • confirmations - $1;
  • hinges with a closer - $ 3;
  • handle and 4 legs with screws - $ 8.5.

TOTAL: $38.5.
True, I also paid $ 4 to a taxi driver to deliver the material from the factory home.

I hope you liked the article and it describes many of the little things that you need to know when making not only cabinets for an aquarium with your own hands, but also the rest of the furniture in your home.

Aquarium - a source of positive emotions, radiating calm and positive. You can spend hours watching the life of the inhabitants of this mini-universe, not getting tired of it at all. The acquisition of an aquarium, especially a large one, in addition to pleasant sensations, brings with it a serious question - where to install it? Even a small aquarium is a very heavy thing, and lovers of large tanks receive serious care. A liter of water weighs one kilogram, if the capacity is 200 liters, we get at least two centners. Ready-made furniture is not suitable for installation - a constant load on the cover make her bend, which can lead to glass cracking or other problems. What can you install an aquarium on without the risk of damage?

You will need a strong foundation that can withstand a large constant load. Most often, a support is used for this purpose, made of materials of sufficient thickness to cope with the weight of a full aquarium and not deform. Do-it-yourself cabinet for an aquarium will help solve the installation problem, if it is possible to manufacture it. Can be applied plywood, MDF, chipboard, natural wood, these materials are able to withstand heavy loads, the main thing is the correct design.

First of all, it should be noted that the back wall must be reinforced. Usually it is made of fiberboard, which in our case is unacceptable. It is necessary to use a shield made of the same material as the side walls or the cover. In addition, the design should include vertical reinforcing elements under the cover with a small span to prevent it from sagging from gravity. Large-capacity aquariums (from 200 l) require a rigid frame made of metal elements that takes on the load; the use of panel elements made of chipboard and MDF in this case is not recommended.

The strength and reliability of the cabinets do not exclude the aesthetic moment. Stand should look harmonious and not look like a handicraft creation of an armless genius.

Ideally, the design should match the overall look of the room.

Construction dimensions

Cabinet lid sizes are most often match the size of the bottom of the aquarium. This option visually makes the support and the aquarium look neat and dignified. The choice of base height is dictated by the need to periodically change the water in the aquarium, which makes it impossible to use a stand that is too high. It is usually done so that the total height of the aquarium mounted on the cabinet allows you to look inside from above without additional devices. Small containers, on the order of 100 liters, can be placed on larger platforms that perform some additional functions, while volumes from 200 liters require individual stands.

DIY manufacturing

The process resembles the manufacture of an ordinary cabinet or chest of drawers, in the sense that the same techniques and components are used. First of all, it is necessary to draw up drawings of the future product and determine the dimensions of all parts, their number and thickness. The presence or absence of a rigid frame is determined by the size of the aquarium, if it is not very large, for example, about 100 liters, then you can do without the construction of a frame and use walls as load-bearing elements. It is very convenient to use laminated chipboard. For reinforcement, all load-bearing elements can be made duplicated, i.e. glue chipboard in two layers. This is especially recommended for the lid and side walls. A variety of colors of laminated chipboard allows you to choose the one you need to match the entire furniture of the room. It is necessary to stock up on the necessary fittings, it is better to assemble for confirmation.

Consideration must be given to the possibility of water intrusion on the surface of the cover.

The use of materials that are not resistant to water may damage the surface of the cabinet.

Frame manufacturing

Owners of large aquariums with a volume of 200 liters or more are forced to approach the manufacture of cabinets more thoroughly. In such cases, the carrier element it is necessary to make a rigid frame that will eliminate the risk of deflection or deformation of bearing surfaces. The most preferred option is the manufacture of a metal frame, as the most durable and reliable. The complexity of the task is that the assembly of such a frame may require welding. which is unlikely in an apartment. However, it is possible to assemble the frame on bolts, which eliminates welding, but increases the amount of drilling work.

As an alternative to metal, you can use a wooden block. With proper connection and precision of fit, it can compete with a metal frame in strength, since the load is static and does not involve any shocks or changes in direction of force. Another advantage of a wooden frame is the ease of wood processing, the possibility of effective gluing and the reliability of connections. The disadvantages include a large thickness of the bars compared to metal parts.

The wooden structure may require a revision of the entire design of the bedside table, in order to harmoniously match the frame and walls.

An example of making a cabinet with your own hands

Cladding with chipboard panels

The finished frame must be ennobled, to give it a decent look of a piece of furniture. There can be many options for such a finish, but the most preferred is cladding with laminated chipboard panels. In extreme cases, you can use ordinary chipboard, but this option will require subsequent finishing - painting. pasting with a film, etc.

Walls cut to size are attached to the frame with screws from the inside (if the frame is made of metal), or to furniture corners. The lid of the cabinet is attached in the same way. Doors, if any, are hung on furniture hinges in the usual way, shelves are installed using shelf holders.

The edges of the laminated chipboard are pasted over with an ordinary edge tape, matched to match the plane.

Another example of do-it-yourself manufacturing is shown in the video.

Assembly sequence

If the frame is not provided:

  1. Cutting to size of all walls, lids and bottoms, doors and shelves according to the selected model.
  2. Edge banding (if required).
  3. We drill holes for confirmation, screws or bolts.
  4. We connect all the details of the cabinet, starting from the back wall, to which the side and inner walls are attached.
  5. We hang the doors, adjust the gaps.
  6. Installing shelves.

The sequence is approximate, for a cabinet made of chipboard. Depending on the selected material, the procedure may be changed.

If a framework is used:

  1. Assembling the frame according to the required dimensions.
  2. Cutting cladding elements to size.
  3. Drilling holes for screws or bolts if the frame is steel.
  4. We fasten the cladding elements to the frame starting from the back wall. It is desirable to additionally connect the facing panels to each other.
  5. Installation of doors, shelves.

How to decorate a curbstone for an aquarium?

If the assembled stand consists of unfinished material, such as chipboard, it must be decorated. There can be many options, from painting in the desired color to pasting with a film or cloth, using a self-adhesive film (optimally - during the assembly process), pasting with sheet plastic. When choosing a finish consideration should be given to the possibility of water.

The final decision is dictated by your own preferences and capabilities.

Installation of the tank on the pedestal

Most often, the aquarium is simply installed on a flat, prepared surface of the stand. Since it is not exposed to any mechanical influences from the outside, it does not require additional fastening to the support. A thin polystyrene foam pad should be placed under the bottom to compensate for the slightest irregularities. With small volumes, which include aquariums up to 100 liters, all these actions are quite enough.

If the capacity is large, from 200 liters or more, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the base and ensure the immobility of the cabinet on the floor. If necessary, adjust the height of the legs or supports.

Styrofoam padding is required, since any speck that accidentally falls on the bottom of the aquarium can destroy it.

The video shows an example of making do-it-yourself cabinets for an aquarium of 200 liters

Advantages of self-production

Buying an aquarium stand does not always solve all the problems with size, color or design. Often the problem can be solved only by making the stand yourself - for example, if you need to install a corner aquarium, the search for the right support can take too long. In addition, self-assembly good way save money, since buying a cabinet is a very expensive event. The advantages of home-made cabinets can be considered an exact match to the desired size, color and device. Someone prefers doors, someone prefers drawers, glass details, etc. All these points are easiest to implement with the independent manufacture of curbstones for an aquarium.

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