Pen for chickens with their own hands. Drawings, diagrams, tips from A to Z with photos and videos

Every farmer wants his farm to bring results. When purchasing chickens, I want them to rush well and at the same time look great: they are healthy, beautiful and meaty. But few people realize that the main guarantee of successful keeping of chickens is the correct preparation of conditions for keeping. For breeding chickens, it is very important to equip the corral at the very beginning. After all, chickens need fresh air and walks in nature, if it is not possible to send them to walk on their own in the country, then you should definitely build a corral.

Why do you need an aviary

Often, the owners tend to breed chickens, knowing full well that their site is small, and on it, in addition to the chicken coop, they will also need to place a garden for which they do not want to build a separate fence. And these poultry will certainly want to feast on plantings, following their natural instincts.

There are a number of key points that explain why a paddock is needed:

• in addition to food, for good nutrition, it is necessary that the diet of each chicken contains fresh grass, beetles, worms;
• there are a lot of predators that can encroach on chickens, the corral will become a reliable defense against them;
• it is absolutely impossible to keep birds in a cage or a closed chicken coop, they need to ensure freedom of movement;
• it is not always possible to control the weather and hide chickens from rains and strong winds in time, and a special canopy in the paddock will help the birds hide from adverse natural disasters.

As you can see, a fence for walking chickens is one of the primary buildings that are necessary for successful keeping. To minimize the cost of arrangement, you can build a paddock yourself.

Important! A chicken is a bird that needs certain conditions to lay an egg. In the dark, even if the time has come for the bird to drift, it will not sit down and will wait for daylight hours.

Features and types of paddock

Chicken pen

A standard paddock is a fenced area with a net or a metal grate, in which a gate is made for the owners. It is best to place the pen near the chicken coop to ensure that the bird can freely exit the chicken coop right for a walk.

Chickens love to walk freely, and not sit in a cage. Therefore, you should not save space by choosing a territory for a paddock. To ensure proper comfort, each head should have at least 2 square meters. m. Without fail, where the paddock will stand, grass must be present. It is also better to put the corral in a calm, quiet place, away from people, so that excess noise does not reduce egg production.

There are several options for pens that you can do with your own hands.

Mobile structures

Such mobile structures are used to provide chickens with fresh grass and outdoor walks. These are compact small structures that are closed on top with a net or canopy so that birds do not fly over the walls of the barriers.

Such paddocks are equipped with handles and wheels, so that when moving there are no difficulties. There are mobile structures that do not have wheels. They are inconvenient in that only two people can carry such pens.

The main disadvantage of portable enclosures is the inconvenience, which is due to the fact that every day it will be necessary to distill the chickens from the paddock for walking to the chicken coop for the night. How to teach chickens to go into the chicken coop in the evening for the night is more friendly, everyone guesses, but it takes more time. Therefore, in order not to carry adult chickens, they organize a small chicken coop for the night next to the corral, in which there is a place to rush.

Designs can be rectangular, square or triangular.

Stationary pens

Stationary paddocks are distinguished by the fact that they can be used all year round. They are mounted directly to the chicken coop, and the chickens go for a walk on their own. If you plan to keep chickens of meat breeds, then you can use open-air cages without a roof, about 1.5 m high, since the birds cannot fly high.

For simple chickens, the structure is made about 2 m high and covered with a net that will freely allow daylight to penetrate. Also, the top is closed if it is necessary to protect the bird from predators, because they are able not only to carry away young animals, but also adults.

Stationary pens

Chicken aviary requirements

Many try and build pens, but sometimes the question arises why chickens do not go out into the aviary from the chicken coop to the street.

To prevent this from happening, the chicken pen must meet certain requirements:

• bird safety;
• reliability and strength of materials;
• full compliance of the area with the number of birds that will be placed in it;
• inaccessibility to predators.

Naturally, the frame must be strong and reliable. When connecting structural elements, especially when using wire, it is important to ensure that sharp protruding parts do not fall into the inside of the pen. About such sharp parts of the chicken can simply get hurt.

Do-it-yourself construction of a stationary corral

A stationary pen for chickens is a capital structure. The simplest option would be a mesh fence. When organizing a canopy for chickens, many troubles can be avoided, in the form of predators, precipitation, debris and fallen leaves. There can be many design ideas. But in any case, before construction, a detailed diagram should be drawn up, as well as a drawing should be drawn, which will subsequently help to assemble the structure.

Important! It is best to build a stationary pen on the east side, so the bird will receive the necessary amount of vitamin D. In addition, the bright morning sun is not too hot.

Necessary materials

When building a stationary corral, you will need:

• boards;
• Slate;
• Grids;
• Cement;
• Sand;
• Straw;
• Wire;
• Construction tool.

Main stages of construction

Do-it-yourself construction of a stationary corral

The answer to the question of how to make a pen for chickens will be a description of the main stages of construction. First you need to start building the foundation. Soil is removed along the edge of the perimeter of the future building to a depth of 30 cm. Then a layer is poured, about 10 cm thick, of sand, pebbles and lime. Then a small formwork is created and cement mortar is poured. It should be left for 21 days to solidify. In some cases, stationary aviaries for summer walking of chickens are constructed using metal pipes dug into the ground and a net. Such a structure is much more financially profitable, but using the foundation will protect against predators who can get into the chicken coop by digging.

The floor covering should be made of natural materials. There are several options. You can use dried boards. You can also make a floor from natural grass. But its sowing requires regular mowing of the lawn, as well as cleaning up dry residues in the fall.

To organize the walls, it will be necessary to fix wooden beams in the foundation, then they are attached to the grid of rowan grouse or other mesh material. If a stationary foundation is not used, then the grid should be buried in the ground to a depth of at least 20 cm so that predators cannot get through, and the chickens themselves do not get out by digging.

Modern chicken coop

You can also build a roof that will not be superfluous in such a design. To do this, it is better to use profile pipes as a frame. Metal pipes are dug in along the perimeter, to a depth of 1 m. If a foundation is used, then frame pipes should be installed at the pouring stage. The distance between the pipes should be about 2 m. If there is no foundation, then after installing the pipes, the pits are first covered with rubble, and then poured with concrete and allowed to dry for 21 days.

The finished paddock for chickens is additionally attached to the walls of the chicken coop, so there will simply be no need to move or move it. It is important to provide a door in one wall. It should be fastened to the curtains in the wall and closed with a reliable deadbolt.

Then the rafters should be installed. For each fastening, metal corners are welded, holes are drilled in each of them.

Wooden rafters are screwed with self-tapping screws. Now roofing material can be attached to the rafters. It can be a regular slate.

Construction of a mobile paddock

Such a corral is used in the summer, it is especially relevant for raising young animals. When the temperature drops, the birds in it will feel uncomfortable.

Construction materials

To build a mobile aviary for chickens with your own hands, you will need to purchase:

• Boards with parameters 3x10 cm;
• Bars measuring 2x4 cm;
• Slate;
• Net;
• Nails and screws;
• Building tools.

Building step by step

Construction of a mobile paddock

To make such a corral, you will need to perform the following sequential steps:

1. Construction of the side walls. Future side walls should be made of boards. For those with a shorter length, the upper corners should be cut at a slope of 60 degrees, and the lower ones at an angle of 30 degrees. When you connect them, you get an intersection. The transverse boards are connected to the longitudinal ribs. The final step will be the tension of the mesh, it is fixed using staples.
2. Frame assembly. The upper parts of the future frame are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. To connect the bottom of the walls, crossbars are used, in which the ends are pre-cut at an angle of 30 degrees.
3. Fastening special spacers. To further strengthen the structure, spacers should be installed in the middle of the frame, in which the edges are also cut off by 30 degrees. Often these spacers are used as a perch.
4. Sheathing and roof. The third part of the perimeter surface is sewn up with slate. This is necessary so that the chickens can hide from bad weather and strong sun. The slate is attached to the side walls and is well fixed. Part of the roof is also covered with slate.

Mesh selection

One of the main elements that are used in construction is a metal mesh. Therefore, it is subject to the greatest number of requirements. First of all, it should be reliable protection, especially from predators that can get inside.

To implement a chicken aviary, preference should be given to nets with a wire cross section of at least 3 square meters. mm. To prevent rats from entering the aviary, a mesh should be chosen in which diagonal holes should not exceed 2 cm.

There are several options that can be used to make a chicken aviary.

Wire mesh

According to many, this option may be suitable for making a corral. But, in fact, this is not a reliable protection, since, if desired, raccoons, foxes and other predators break it very easily. Yes, and often chickens can crawl out into the holes in the grid, made in the form of a hexagon measuring 2.5-5 cm.

Wire mesh

On a note. The only use of fine mesh is to cover the top of the chicken pen to protect the birds from hawks and other flying predators.

Welding wire mesh

Welded or reinforcing mesh is the most acceptable option when creating a chicken pen, as it is able to protect the bird from any kind of predators.

But there are also certain disadvantages:

• High price;
• It is difficult to work mechanically, as it is very rigid;
• It takes a long time to cut.

There are several types of such a grid. There are reinforcing mesh according to the size of the cells: ¼, ½, 1 inch.

Rabitz

This is another option that can be used to set up a chicken coop and create a pen. The grid the chain-link happens to different sizes of cells.

To equip a bird yard, it is not enough just to build it.

Experienced poultry farmers, thanks to their experience, are advised to go for little tricks to make the chicken aviary more comfortable and original:

1. To make it comfortable for chickens to walk in cold weather, the aviary can be sheathed with transparent plastic or polycarbonate, but it should not be too thin so as not to be torn by the wind.
2. For the comfort of the birds, install basins with a mixture of sand and ash in the pen, in which the birds will bathe and clean their feathers.
3. As a perch, you can use spaced stumps around the paddock.
4. Chickens do not like to walk in the snow, so in the cold of winter, you should line their path with straw for comfort.

Even if there is not too much space on the site, you can still raise chickens. If you approach this issue correctly, then the birds will feel very comfortable, and the owners themselves will get the desired result.

Poultry is best kept free-range, but not every household has such conditions. To ensure the safety of beds and flower beds, as well as to protect the birds themselves from dogs and wild predators, you need to buy or build a paddock. Purchased options have one big disadvantage - high cost, while home-made ones will cost much less, because you can use a wide variety of improvised materials for their manufacture. What should be a pen for chickens and how to build it with your own hands?

A standard corral is an area fenced around the perimeter with a mesh, metal grating or boards. As a rule, it is located near the chicken coop so that the bird can go out into the fresh air directly from the barn, and in the fence itself they make a door or gate for the owners. The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corral can be only a couple of squares, or it can be quite spacious - it all depends on the availability of free space in the suburban area. There are a lot of options for such pens, but they are all divided into two types - mobile and stationary.

Mobile paddocks

Mobile pens are used in the warm season, allowing birds to graze on fresh grass. They are compact, lightweight, covered with a net or a canopy on top so that the chickens do not fly over low walls. There are portable designs, equipped with protruding handles on the sides, there are more convenient ones - on wheels. Such pens are easily moved on a flat area by the efforts of one person, unlike portable ones that need to be lifted by two.

For chickens, portable pens are made in the form of large cages, and the chicks are there only during the daytime. All that such structures are equipped with is a drinking bowl, a feeder and some kind of canopy from the sun and rain. It is too problematic to drive adult chickens from the chicken coop to the pen and back every day, so they are there all the time. For this reason, a mini-chicken coop with a perch and a nest for laying hens is additionally equipped in the corral. To save usable space, the chicken house is often installed on high supports, due to which it occupies the upper part of the pen and does not interfere with the walking of the bird.

In terms of the shape of the structure, rectangular, triangular and arched pens are most often found. Wooden beams, boards, steel pipes, fittings are used as building materials for the frame. Lightweight mini-pens are made from PVC pipes. They cover the frame most often with a metal mesh - welded or chain-link, but some also use a polymer mesh with small cells. Fabric nets are not recommended, as the birds stick their heads through the holes and get tangled. Protection from rain, wind and sunlight is provided using polycarbonate, slate, corrugated board and other similar materials from which a canopy can be built.

Stationary pens

Stationary paddocks are used year-round. Fences are installed close to the walls of the chicken coop, and the birds go out on their own. When keeping chickens of meat breeds that cannot fly high, the corral is left open, and the height of the fence does not exceed 1.5 meters. For ordinary chickens, the height is increased to 2 m or the corral is made closed by pulling the net from above. A closed top is also made if there is a danger of an attack by birds of prey, which can easily drag away not only young animals, but also adult chicken.

It is not necessary to make a canopy from the rain in such a pen, since the chickens themselves hide from the weather in the barn. But it is desirable to shade part of the corral from the sun, especially if the site is located on the south side. Many owners plant trees inside the fence, if the area allows. The type of tree does not really matter, the main thing is that the crown is thick and wide. If the site is very small, then make a light canopy from improvised materials.

Preparation for construction

The construction of a corral does not require special knowledge or much experience, so anyone who knows how to use a construction tool can handle this task without outside help. In order for the corral to turn out to be reliable and convenient, you should correctly calculate the dimensions, choose a place, and carefully select materials for construction.

But first you need to decide on the type of paddock. If the number of chickens does not exceed 15-20 heads, and there are free grazing areas on the estate, a mobile pen with a summer chicken coop would be the best solution. It takes up little space, easily moves around the site, the bird always has fresh grass. In addition, this is a great way to get rid of weeds - in a few days, chickens will peck out every last blade of grass.

If there are no opportunities for grazing or the livestock is too large, a stationary paddock is needed. In this case, you should choose the right place, prepare it in order to create the most comfortable conditions for the bird.

Advice. It is advisable to start building a corral before the chickens grow up and move from the box to the barn. This will allow you to calmly, without haste, choose a place, determine the dimensions and drawing, and carefully prepare the materials.

Prices for chicken coops for birds

chicken coops

Material selection and area calculation

When choosing a material, you need to consider the type of construction. For portable and mobile pens, you need to choose lighter materials to make it easier for you to move the product to a new place. Best of all for the construction of the frame, wooden bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are suitable. There are options from PVC pipes: the structure is light and strong enough, however, it costs a little more than wooden ones.

The frame of a stationary corral should be as strong and durable as possible, so preference should be given to metal pipes, and steel corners should be used as lintels. The beam is also suitable, but it must be treated in advance with a protective impregnation against decay, otherwise the racks will have to be changed after a few seasons.

As for the mesh, here the fine-mesh galvanized mesh, chain-link or welded mesh is considered the best choice. You should not take a cheap mesh (without a protective coating), because it will not last long. After the first rain, rust will appear on it, and after 2-3 seasons it can be thrown away.

A good option is a polymer mesh, but only on condition that there are no rats or martens on the site, which easily gnaw through plastic.

The choice of cell size depends on the age of the bird: for adult chickens, a chain-link with a cell of 50x50 mm is quite suitable, for chickens - 20x20 mm. If it is a welded mesh, then the optimal mesh size will be 25x50 mm and 25x25 mm.

Netting prices

The calculation of the area is made taking into account the number of poultry. The larger the corral area, the better, since in crowded places chickens get sick more often, rush worse and fight among themselves. On average, 1 m2 is required per hen, therefore, a corral for 10 hens should not be less than 10 m2. In this case, the shape of the fenced area can be any, depending on the availability of free space.

To correctly calculate the dimensions and quantity of materials, you need to draw a drawing or pick up a ready-made one. There are many options with detailed parameters, so choosing the most suitable one is not difficult. With self-compilation, the drawing indicates the location of the main racks and lintels, the width of the canopy, the parameters of the chicken house. If this is a stationary paddock, the area is preliminarily measured to avoid errors in the calculations.

Location selection

For a stationary corral, the location is of particular importance. The paddock should be dry, closed on the north side, located as far as possible from the roadway. In principle, if the place for the chicken coop is chosen correctly, then the conditions for the corral are suitable. A fence is installed on the south side of the chicken coop, while the wall of the shed simultaneously serves as the wall of the corral. If there is very little free space in front of the barn, you can fence off the area around the perimeter of the building or on the side, the main thing is to arrange a direct exit for the bird from the chicken coop to the pen. In this case, the north side of the fence should be solid, for example, from slate or corrugated board.

If it is planned to build both a chicken coop and a pen at the same time, a hinged option is perfect to save space, that is, building a chicken coop on high pillars. With this arrangement of the structure, the place under the chicken coop is also used for walking and there is no need to build a separate canopy from rain and sun. Such buildings are found quite often in small cottages, where every centimeter of area counts.

The selected area needs to be prepared: remove large stones, debris, make sure that there is no broken glass in the soil. Grass should be removed along the perimeter of the future fence and a layer of turf should be removed to a depth of 10-15 cm. If there are deep recesses, they should be covered with fine gravel and earth to prevent the formation of puddles during rain. After that, you can proceed directly to the construction.

Do-it-yourself ways to build corrals

Stationary open paddock from chain-link mesh

This is one of the easiest options that does not require much time and effort. For construction you will need:

• galvanized mesh in rolls;
• steel pipes with a diameter of 50-100 mm;
• knitting wire;
• Bulgarian;
• wire cutters;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• building level;
• manual drill;
• concrete mortar.

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders (grinders)

Step 1. Mark the location of the corner posts of the corral. To do this, measure the width of the corral from one corner of the chicken coop, then repeat the same on the other side. The distance from both marks to the wall should be the same.

Step 2 They determine which side the gate should be on, and mark the width of the opening along the marking line. On average, the width of the gate varies from 80 to 100 cm, depending on the complexion of the owners of the site.

Step 3 Between the corner posts, marks are made in increments of 1.5-2 m for intermediate posts, without which the mesh will sag.

Step 4 With the help of a hand drill, pits 40-50 cm deep and slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe are made by marking. If the soil is too soft and loose, the diameter should be increased to 30-40 cm.

Step 5 The pipes are cut to the desired length (the depth to which the racks will be dug into the ground must be added to the height of the fence) and lowered into the pits. Fine gravel and sand are poured, the racks are leveled vertically and in height, the pits are poured with concrete. Once again, the level of the location of the pipes is checked, if necessary, corrected, left in this position for 3 days, so that the solution seizes properly.

Step 6 From the outside, metal hooks are welded onto the pipes: the lower one is 15 cm above the soil level, the upper one is 10-15 cm lower than the top of the pipe and one in the middle.

Step 7 To the wall of the shed, where the mesh will be attached, a wooden block 50x50 mm is nailed or a metal corner with drilled holes for the wire is screwed with self-tapping screws.

Step 8 The edge of the mesh is fixed on the shed with nails or knitting wire, then pulled between the posts, clinging to the hooks. All posts should be inside the perimeter, not outside.

A grid of different rolls is interconnected with a wire pulled from the edge of the grid. You can also use knitting wire. Now it remains only to make and install the gate. The simplest gate is a rectangular frame made of a profile pipe with a mesh welded on top. Instead of pipes, you can assemble a frame from bars, reinforced at the corners with metal plates. Next, install the hinges and hang the gate in its place.

On soft, loose soil, it is recommended to dig the lower edge of the net 15-20 cm around the entire perimeter, as chickens like to rake the ground and can accidentally crawl out of the corral. If the area is rocky, there is no need to dig in the mesh, it is enough that it touches the surface of the soil. When fixing the mesh with a knitting wire, make sure that its sharp ends do not stick out into the fence - birds can catch them and get hurt.

Stationary corral with a canopy

To build such a pen you will need:

• profile pipes with a section of 20x40 mm, 40x40 mm and 60x60 mm;
• polycarbonate sheets;
• chain-link mesh or welded;
• drill;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• nuts and bolts;
• level and tape measure;
• knitting wire.

Prices for popular models of welding machines

Welders

Step 1. Perform marking under the bearing racks. The first row of racks should be located at a distance of 40-50 cm from the wall, the second row - the width of the corral. The step between the racks in a row is 2-2.5 meters.

Step 2 According to the marking, pits are dug 100 cm deep and 30-40 cm in diameter.

Step 3 Larger pipes are cut with a grinder to the required length. Racks located near the wall should rise about one and a half meters above the roof eaves, the second row of supports is made lower by 50 cm to create a slope for water flow.

Step 4 The first pipe is lowered into the pit, the vertical is leveled, covered with rubble and concreted. All other pipes are installed in the same way, controlling the height and verticality. Until the concrete sets well, work will have to be suspended for 3 days.

Step 5 For greater stability of the frame, a 20x40 mm profile is screwed to the barn wall on both sides. The length of the profile must correspond to the height of the wall, and it must be located in the same plane as the end posts.

Step 6 They make a canopy. Along the upper edge of the racks, the upper strapping belt is welded from a profile pipe 40x40 mm. Between the uprights, at a distance of 20 cm from the upper belt, the lower one is welded using a 40x20 mm pipe. Braces are welded between the belts from pipe sections 40x20 mm, fixing them at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 7 Rafters from boards are attached to the resulting canopy trusses. To do this, a metal corner of 40x40 mm is cut with a grinder into parts 4-5 cm wide, 2 holes are drilled in each part and welded to the upper belt in increments of 60-70 cm. Next, rafters from boards with a section of 40x120 mm are laid on top and screwed with screws. All rafters must be located strictly in the same plane.

Advice. First, it is desirable to try on the boards to the frame, make an exact fit to avoid distortions, and then remove and treat with a protective compound. You can attach them only after complete drying.

Step 8 A crate of boards with a section of 25x100 mm is stuffed over the rafters, in increments of 35-40 cm, after which polycarbonate is laid and fixed with thermal washers.

Step 9 Now you need to make a strapping from a profile of a smaller section. The profile is cut to size, tried on to the supports from the outside, the fixation points are marked. Further, according to the marks, holes are drilled for the bolts in the racks and crossbars. The lower trim should be located at a level of 5-10 cm from the ground, the upper one - at a height of 1.5-1.7 m. When installing the crossbars, you need to leave an opening for the gate.

Step 10 If part of the corral is planned to be taken away for walking chickens, in that place along the perimeter they make a fence made of fine-mesh mesh up to 40 cm high. The mesh is pulled from the outside and tied with wire or plastic clamps.

Step 11 Stretch a chain-link mesh over the frame and fix it with a knitting wire. If desired, you can weld hooks on the poles and hang the net on them.

Step 12 Hinges are welded to the canopy rack, then a gate is applied and attachment points are marked. Having screwed the upper parts of the hinges, the gate is hung in its place. A valve is welded to another post at the opening, onto which the gate will close.

Mobile paddock

For the construction of a mobile structure you will need:

• dry strong boards with a section of 30x100 mm;
• moisture resistant plywood 18 mm thick;
• bars with a section of 20x40 mm;
• galvanized mesh.

In addition, you will need a carpentry tool, screws and nails, a construction stapler.

After that, it remains to install and secure the board with stuffed transverse strips inside the frame so that the chickens can climb the perch on their own.

Video - Pen for chickens

Video - Chain-link chicken pen

A chicken pen is an area where birds can warm up and satisfy their need for physical activity. For poultry, regular walking is necessary - this content allows you to achieve good egg production, and when fresh air enters the body of individuals, vitamin D, which is necessary for strengthening bones, begins to be actively produced.

That is why farmers prefer to build pens that are convenient for the movement of birds. You can make such a design yourself if you have all the materials, and today we will tell you what chicken pens are and how to make them yourself.

When growing poultry, both mobile and stationary pens are used. The design should be chosen based on the characteristics of your site and the number of chickens.

mobile

Mobile structures are mainly used in the warm season, their peculiarity is that they quickly move to different parts of the territory. For greater convenience, wheels or special handles are installed on them, so you can move them alone.

The presence of a corral on the site will allow chickens to eat grass and various insects, which will significantly save money on the purchase of feed. The mobile design is useful because the birds can constantly feed on fresh green food in the new territory.

The upper part of the corral is usually closed with a net or other dense material so that the chickens do not have the opportunity to fly over and are not attacked by birds of prey. Also, direct sunlight should not be allowed, therefore, a canopy is built for the paddock, covering at least a third of the area.

The structure is equipped with all necessary equipment, including feeding equipment. The construction of an additional mini-house with perches will provide the most comfortable conditions for chickens - individuals will not have to be constantly moved to a stationary chicken coop. Such a structure is raised on special supports in order to rationally use the area under the building - for feeding and walking birds.

There are several types of corrals that differ in shape:

• rectangular;
• triangular;
• arched.

During construction, various types of materials are used, including wood, metal pipes. The summer version of the corral can be made from light pipes.

Stationary

Stationary bird pens are usually used in both cold and warm seasons. They are mounted near the wall of the chicken coop so that the chickens have free access to the street. When growing broilers, it is not necessary to make a high fence, its optimal height is one and a half meters, however, for other individuals capable of flying, they build a higher corral or close it with a net. The need to close the roof arises if various predators live in the area, which pose a danger to poultry.

In such a pen, it is not necessary to make a canopy, because the birds can be in the hen house during changes in weather conditions. A small part of the paddock should be fenced off only if it is constantly exposed to sunlight.

Preparation for construction

Any novice farmer can handle the construction of a bird pen, because such actions do not require special skills. However, for the construction of a reliable structure, you will need to first draw up a construction plan, select a suitable plot of land and materials.

First you need to decide on the type of future design. If you have a small farm, it is recommended to build a mobile paddock for summer walking on your site. Installation will not take much time, and the chickens will have the opportunity to eat fresh herbs. Often these portable houses are placed in areas where there is an active growth of weed plants, because birds quickly exterminate them.

Advice! It will take more time to build a stationary pen, so work should begin even before the chickens grow up.

Mesh selection

Of great importance is the choice of the grid of the future aviary - it is necessary to opt for the most durable and durable option.

Table 1. Types of mesh for paddocks

Size calculation

The exact size of the structure depends on the size of the livestock. Do not forget that the lack of territory will lead to conflicts between individuals, various injuries. In addition, stressful conditions adversely affect the productivity of birds.

It is important to provide at least 1.5 square meters for each chicken. m area. This means that for ten individuals, an aviary of about 15 square meters will be required. m. These are optimal sizes, suitable even for egg breeds that need more space to improve productivity.

Meat breed birds require minimal space for walking, so you do not have to build a spacious pen. On average, for ten individuals, it is necessary to build an aviary of about 6 square meters. m.

Choosing a place for construction

For the construction of a stationary structure, it is important to choose the right place. Chickens should get into the aviary from their chicken coop without any problems. It is recommended to locate the object on the south side, and the north wall is usually reinforced with corrugated board.

Stationary buildings should not be built in pits and various depressions, because it is in such places that increased accumulation of moisture is observed, which negatively affects the condition of the birds. The windows of the room should only face south so that the first rays of the sun penetrate the chicken coop.

Ways to build an aviary yourself

Having chosen the materials and having decided on the plan and the construction project, you can proceed to the construction process itself. Below we describe how this is done.

Construction of a stationary open aviary

This is the simplest enclosure design. For construction you will need:

• roll mesh;
• metal pipes;
• flexible wire;
• measuring tape;
• other tools.

Table 2. Detailed construction instructions

Illustration	Description
	Step one: we mark the location of the enclosure racks in the corners. To do this, you need to measure the width of the structure on each side. The distance from the marks to the wall of the chicken coop should match.
	Step two: we outline the location of the gate. Its average height is about 90 cm. The main thing is that it is convenient to enter the opening.
	Step three: we put additional markings in the middle between the racks for installing poles. They are made in order to securely fasten the mesh from all sides.
	Step four: we make indentations in the soil with a drill about 45 centimeters deep. They must match the diameter of the pipes.
	Step five: we cut the pipes to the optimal length (it should also be taken into account that some of them will go deep into the ground) and lower them into the ground. Then the racks should be carefully leveled, sprinkled with sand and poured with liquid concrete. In this state, they should be left for 3-4 days, so that the concrete has time to harden.
	Step six: by welding, we attach metal hooks to the pipes. The lower hook is fixed a few centimeters from the ground level, and the upper one from the beginning of the rack.
	Step seven: we fix a corner with openings for the wire on the wall of the chicken coop using self-tapping screws.
	Step eight: we fix the grid on the wall of the finished chicken coop using flexible wire or nails. You will need to connect the roll mesh to each other at the edges. To facilitate this process, you can use a flexible wire.

The next step is to install the gate. It is a construction in the form of a rectangle made of a metal profile pipe, and a grid is attached on top of it. If necessary, the wicket frame can be assembled from timber, but it is reinforced with metal plates on each side. Next, the gate is suspended by hinges.

If there is too loose earth on the site, then a net should be dug around the entire perimeter of the enclosure, because the birds rake the soil with their paws and can go beyond the fence through the hole.

If the soil in the area is hard, do not deepen the grid. The main thing is that the structure fits snugly to the ground. In addition, when fixing the net at the bottom of the enclosure, it is necessary to ensure that all sharp parts of the flexible wire look out. Otherwise, chickens may be injured.

Construction of a stationary covered corral with a canopy

When building a closed corral, use:

• pipes with a diameter: 2×4 cm, 4×4 cm, 6×6 cm;
• polycarbonate sheets;
• net;
• set of tools;
• flexible wire;
• measuring tape;
• nuts.

Table 3. Detailed instructions for the manufacture of an indoor aviary

Illustration	Description
	Step one: using a measuring tape, mark the location of the supporting structures. The initial row is located at a distance of about 45 centimeters from the chicken coop, the other row is the width of the aviary itself. The distance between the racks is 200-250 centimeters.
	Step two: strictly according to the markup, we make meter deepenings in the soil.
	Step three: cut to the desired length of a pipe of a larger diameter. Pipes located near the wall of the chicken coop should be 150 centimeters higher than the base of the roof. Another row of racks is made half a meter lower. Thanks to a convenient slope, the water will flow down.
	Step four: we lower the pipes into the recesses one by one, fill them with sand and pour concrete. It is necessary to carefully monitor their height, align if necessary. In this state, the structure should stand for several days until the concrete completely hardens.
	Step five: in order to achieve maximum stability, we fix the profile to the wall of the house. Its length should be equal to the height of the wall.
	Step six: we build a hinged structure. In the upper part of the racks, a strapping belt from pipes is fixed by welding, and then the lower belt from pipes of a smaller section is also attached. It must be welded a few centimeters below the main belt. Braces of pipe parts are fixed between the belts at a right angle.
	Step seven: we tie a profile of a smaller diameter. It is cut and attached from the outside. For such purposes, openings are provided in the racks. The lower harness is located at a distance of 5-6 centimeters from the soil, the upper harness is at a distance of one and a half meters. When installing, leave space for the gate.
	Step eight: we put a crate on the rafters, and only then we fix polycarbonate or other material.
	Step nine: we fix the grid on the base of the aviary. This can be done with a flexible wire.
	Step ten: we fix the hinges in the doorway by welding. And then we put the gate on the hinges.

Upon completion of all construction work, the interior of the enclosure should be equipped. For birds, various ladders and hills are installed. A pad is laid on the floor. Usually it consists of sawdust, hay and is replaced as it gets dirty.

Important point! To prevent the penetration of rodents to birds, it is recommended to build a solid foundation for the chicken coop.

Video - Do-it-yourself walking for chickens with a canopy

Portable paddock

For the construction of a mobile pen structure, you will need:

• dried boards;
• plywood sheet;
• timber;
• metal grid.
• construction stapler;
• nails.

Construction process:

1. From the boards it is necessary to build the side of the aviary. And then they cut off the ends. After that, a grid is installed between the crossbars using a stapler.
2. On both sides, the walls are connected with self-tapping screws, and crossbars are attached to the lower part. And then cut them at an angle.
3. In the middle part of the frame, spacers are fixed with nails, retreating a few centimeters. The end parts of the spacers are also cut at an angle.
4. The top of the frame is sheathed with plywood sheets. The end part of the aviary is closed with a net.
5. To make the corral more stable, planks of timber are fixed on top of the entire structure.

The portable structure can be equipped with a perch upon completion of the main construction work. If necessary, additional transverse strips are fixed inside so that the birds easily rise to the perch.

Summing up

A room for walking birds must be on every farm. Fresh air and green food contribute to the active growth of individuals and strengthen their immunity. It is not advisable to send chickens for free range - they can get lost or become victims of stray dogs or predatory animals, and unscrupulous neighbors can simply steal thoroughbred chickens.

Video - Building a range for chickens

It is not enough to build a good barn for chickens, you also need to equip it: fix perches, make nests, put / hang drinkers, feeders. But you need to do this in such a way that it is convenient for you to serve the poultry house. In reality, chickens don't care how beautiful their nests are. They fit perfectly on the floor. It will be inconvenient for you to collect eggs from the floor, and they can peck at them. Therefore, we make the arrangement of the chicken coop so that it is more convenient for you.

perches

First of all, you need to equip the chicken coop inside with perches. This is a round or oval stick - a tree branch, a shovel handle, a planed bar, etc., fixed at some height above the floor.

On average, they take about 20-25 cm of perch length per hen. They are fastened from the wall at a distance of 25-30 cm, one perch from another - at a distance of 35-40 cm. You can make multi-tiered ones, but there will be fights for the highest place. Keep in mind that all dimensions are approximate only and are necessary in order to be able to navigate. Everything is selected more locally: different breeds and chicken coops, and their owners too.

To make cleaning easier, a shield made of some smooth material is installed at a distance of 20 cm below the perch. Litter accumulates on it, so choose a smooth surface: it will be easier to sweep.

The question remains: at what height to make a perch, and hence a shield? It is most convenient to clean off in a cart. It should drive under the shield so that you can dump the litter directly into the wheelbarrow with a chopper. Flood height of the shield determines the height of your wheelbarrow, and above the shield there will already be perch slats. And again, choose the height of the perch for chickens so that it is convenient to clean.

nests

The second mandatory element in the arrangement of the chicken coop is nests. They will rush on the floor, but the eggs will be dirty, and even they can peck. According to the norms, one nest is made for three chickens. But in fact it turns out that no matter how many they do, they choose one or two, maximum three and stand in line in them. The rest are exactly the same next to empty. From time to time their tastes change, they begin to rush to others ... From all this it follows that you can safely count 5-6 goals per nest, anyway half will be empty.

It is better to arrange nests so that it is convenient for you to pick up eggs, i.e. hang on the wall. So that the bird can safely get there, they make traps - an inclined board with perches / sticks nailed across. The same trapiki are made for perches. If the nests are placed close to the perches and at about the same level, they will go back and forth. Quite convenient.

You can make such civilized nests

If possible, make sure that the nests face the corridor, if any, with the reverse side. From the back side make a door. Then, in order to pick up the eggs, you do not need to go into the corral - they opened the doors, collected them.

Even chickens like to rush in the dark, or at least in a dim light. Therefore, the entrance is made small, and so that they do not sit inside for a long time, sleep and do not crap, the roof is made with a strong slope (pictured).

You can simply arrange or hang boxes along the wall, but organize a blackout by placing a partition in front of the nests. In general, it is difficult to predict their behavior. It happens that they simply ignore the nests, rush anywhere. Then a stencil or layout can help: cut an egg out of white paper and put it in the nest. It can help: they will rush there.

Several nests in different designs in the photo below. These are all real chicken coops, you can take them into service.

Plastic is very practical: it is convenient to wash, it is inexpensive, you can do a lot of things. Chickens are very fond of such plastic nests. We put more hay in them - they rush. You can take a place below for perches or hang an IR lamp on the bottom - make a solarium

In the nest, you always act with caution with your hands: you never know what the chickens carried there ... It is much more convenient and safer when the eggs roll into a special compartment - the egg receiver. The main snag in this device is to choose the angle of the floor and the flexible material so that the egg pushes it away and stops before it reaches the wall. To soften the "landing" sawdust is poured onto the bottom.

Since the eggs roll and the bird does not see them, they may refuse to lay in such nests. In this case, you can make a dummy egg - from a full-size thick foam or cut a stencil out of paper - and glue it to the bottom. It almost always works.

Chicken cages

Sometimes the bird is kept in cages. But this is with industrial or semi-industrial content. With this method of cultivation, a large number of birds live in a small area. A drawing of a cage for chickens with dimensions is available below.

Broiler cage drawing with dimensions

All sizes are according to the standards, and you don’t need to invent anything. This is the minimum that laying hens need. And what can be obtained from such cells in the photo below.

How to make cages for broilers from wood, see the video. Everything is painted in great detail: what, for what, what sizes, how to assemble and what is needed for this. Really helpful.

Drinkers-feeders

The arrangement of a chicken coop is unthinkable without drinking bowls and feeders. Not only that, they should be. Feeders are periodic and bunker. Periodic - this is when you came, poured out the norm of feed and that's it. Until the next feeding, they are empty.

Climbing and digging is a favorite thing

Bunker - this is when there is a decent supply of food, which is constantly poured into some kind of container. Both have drawbacks: periodic ones - every time you need to go to the chicken coop and pour grain, and the bird also crowds, fights for the best place, which sometimes leads to the fact that the feeder is turned over.

If you have a bunker feeder, you need to walk much less often, but it is possible to overfeed the bird, which is a disaster for laying hens. Therefore, either laying hens are given a big paddock or only broilers are fed in this way.

There are many designs of periodic feeders, but not all of them allow you to save feed. The easiest way is to pour the food into a bowl or container. But, if there is at least some opportunity, the chickens begin to rake the food, pouring it out and then trampling it. Have to throw it away. And such feeders allow not only to dig into the feed, but also to climb into the feeder with legs. Therefore, they need to be improved. To do this, wire separators are installed on the container. Feed consumption is sharply reduced: it is harder to rake it out.

You can make, for example, another similar feeder (or drinker), which is conveniently attached or placed against the wall. It is probably easier to weld it from metal, although there are craftsmen who will make something similar from wood.

There are some interesting ideas. For example, an economical auto-feeder is assembled from an old disk for a car, a basin of a suitable diameter and a plastic bottle for water with a capacity of 5-10 liters.

Look for a disk of the type shown in the photo: with a large number of small holes along the outer edge. In its middle, cut a hole to fit the neck of the bottle. In the bottle cap, cut out the bottom, leaving only the threaded ring. The feed mixture is poured into the bottle, a disk is put on it, and it is pressed with a cut off lid. Food is poured into the basin, a structure is installed on top.

In order not to disassemble the feeder every time when it is necessary to pour food into the bottle, you can cut the bottom, making it look like a lid. Then the bottle itself can be fixed more seriously: fixing with a thread from the lid is not very reliable. But such an improvement does not allow rummaging in the stern, and no one will climb into the basin.

You can make a feeder out of a piece of plastic sewer pipe. Holes with a diameter of about 7 cm are cut out on both sides. They do not have to be made round at all - square or rectangular ones will also work. A corner is installed at the ends at a 90 ° socket upwards and along a small piece of pipe: food can be poured here.

A simple but capacious bunker feeder is a decent chest in which a folding bar is attached at the bottom. In the open position, food is poured onto it.

Another option for an economical feeder is made from plastic sewer pipes. But this is already a bunker design: a decent supply. The design is simple and consumption is reduced.

An even more interesting design of the chicken feeder in the video: with a lid. To open it, you need to jump on it.

Another option is a hopper feeder made of PVC pipes and a plastic water bottle.

Homemade drinkers for chickens

With drinkers almost the same story. Only here water is sprayed, which, mixed with litter, gives an exceptionally persistent smell, as well as dirt. All this does not contribute to easier and faster cleaning. Therefore, the choice of drinkers is no less important than feeders.

The easiest option for a small number of birds - up to 15 pieces - siphon drinkers. They are on legs, allow you to save water. If the legs are well designed, even a chicken flying to the top does not knock them over.

Siphon drinkers - factory and homemade from a plastic bottle

Factory drinkers, of course, look more attractive, but a homemade version is almost for nothing, and they work just as well. In the photo you see a simple home-made siphon drinker for chickens: a support was nailed in the corner - a piece of board with a hole cut out for the neck. Above - a fastening system, and a load, so as not to be knocked down. A hole is cut into the bottom of the bottle, into which water is poured. The whole trick here is to choose the distance at which to install the water tank: so that it is not too little or too much.

Cup drinkers are convenient when growing in cages, as they are conveniently attached to the net. But no one bothers to hang a piece of mesh, say, on the wall or come up with another mount.

They allow birds to drink without splashing. Water is fed into the cup, it bends under the influence of gravity, blocking the flow. They drank the water, the cup rose, the water flows again. A hose is connected to the side fitting, the second end of which is in a container with water, which should be above the level of the drinkers. Convenient and economical.

Nipple drinkers for chickens. These are small devices, a few centimeters in size. A cone-shaped stainless steel rod is inserted into the plastic case.

These nipples are screwed into plastic pipes into which water is supplied. A hole of the required diameter is drilled, a thread is cut and the nipple is screwed in. When you press the rod, a few drops of water appear. Chickens peck at the rod, drinking the drops that appear. The main disadvantage of this method is the drops that fall on the floor. To avoid this, a special drop catcher is placed under each drinker. It just snaps onto the pipe.

For all their diminutiveness, these small drinkers cost a lot, especially if they are high-quality - read - imported. Ours, of course, are cheaper, but break faster.

And the rest are different cups and basins into which water is simply poured. Their disadvantage is that birds often turn them over, and the water in them quickly gets dirty.

There are still interesting ideas from homemade ones. For example, such a drinking bowl from a pipe is shown in the photo. In a piece of plastic pipe, the water level is controlled by a float mechanism from the toilet bowl. Three cup drinkers are attached to the pipes.

The video shows a drinker with autofill.

If there is a desire to equip the chicken coop, you can do it in such a way as to minimize the need for its maintenance. In this case, the bird will bring not only income, but also pleasure: it is always pleasant to look at objects made by oneself, and it is difficult and expensive to keep a bird in a chicken coop without “straight” hands.

Mandatory daily walking of the bird will provide the necessary vitamins and minerals that it will receive by eating insects, plants, basking in the sun. Therefore, for a long healthy life, a lot of free space outside the chicken coop is required. So expand the area will help the corral for chickens.

portable

There are several options for building a portable paddock. Most often it is used in the growing season of young animals. Young hens cannot be immediately planted with adults, they must first be grown up, otherwise there is a risk that old birds will peck them.

Walking for chickens is assembled from wooden bars, then covered with plastic mesh on all sides. It is not recommended to make a frame from metal due to its large weight. Such a corral is moved around the site as the grass under it is eaten. If the nights are warm, then you can leave the chickens inside during the dark hours of the day. But first it is covered from above with a waterproof, windproof material from rain and wind.

The dimensions of the structure should be such that it is easy for one person or two people to move it.

IMPORTANT: Laying hens are kept in such enclosures for up to a month - one and a half, broilers for 2-3 weeks.

Do-it-yourself construction of large aviaries

An easy-to-build option that is suitable for large areas is a chain-link mesh.

To build an aviary for chickens with your own hands you will need:

• Net;
• Strong steel pipes with a diameter of 5 to 10 cm;
• Wire for a bunch;
• Bulgarian;
• Concrete;
• Auxiliary tools.

The construction of the simplest attached stationary paddock is carried out in several stages:

1. Markup. First, the corner posts of the future aviary are determined. If its width coincides with the width of the chicken coop, then the length of the walking area is measured from the wall along the edges.
2. "Finding a Door" A common mistake novice builders make is forgetfulness. Many poultry farmers, already at the last stages of the construction of the corral, remember that they did not put the door in, that is, it is impossible to get inside. In order to prevent such an oversight, the entry point is determined immediately, and the subsequent installation of supports is carried out taking into account adjustments for the doorway.
3. Marking for support columns. Over time, the chain-link mesh stretches a little and sags. Without supports, such deformation will lead to serious damage to the barriers. Supporting poles are placed every 1.5-2 meters.
4. Drill work. The supports must be level in the ground. To do this, with a marking drill from Stage 3, deepenings of up to 0.5 meters are made. It is important to take into account the characteristics of the soil. If the soil is loose, then the diameter of each hole should be about 35 cm, and in solid ground, a hole is sufficient, the diameter of which is slightly wider than that of the pipe.
5. Rack installation. During the sawing of pipes, the depth to which the column will be buried is added to the height of the enclosure. That is, when erecting borders with a height of 1.5 m, two-meter supports will be needed. They are inserted into prepared pits, sprinkled with gravel, sand, leveled. Then poured with concrete, correcting the results. In this position, the racks remain for 2-4 days until the solution dries completely.
6. Mesh preparation. The chain-link is attached to the posts with the help of special hooks, which are pre-welded. Three fastenings are enough - above the soil at a height of 10 cm, not reaching the end of the rack 10 cm, and also in the middle. In order not to spoil the walls of the chicken coop, a board is nailed to them, on which hooks are attached.
7. Chain tension. The mesh is fixed on the bases with the help of a knitting wire or nails, stretched along the entire perimeter of the corral. Its lower edge should be 15-20 cm longer than required so that it can be covered with earth. So the chickens will not be able to dig and get out of the aviary.
8. At the last stage, install the gate on the hinges, mount the deadbolt or lock.

Mobile

The mobile aviary has its advantages and disadvantages. Volumetric chicken run is difficult to move, so mobile pens are made small, and they are suitable either for chickens or for a small number of chickens. But this solution allows you to provide the birds with fresh grass in the summer season, as it can be moved if necessary.

To create a mobile structure you will need:

• Dry boards 3 by 10 cm;
• Wooden blocks 2 by 4 cm;
• Galvanized mesh.

The easiest option is to make a structure in the form of a triangular roof, gradually assembling the sidewalls, the frame and installing spacers:

1. Wall manufacturing. For one sidewall, you will need three boards of 2.5 m each, which will form the length of the enclosure, and 3 short boards up to 1.7 m, setting the height. Long boards are superimposed on short ones, creating the shape of a regular rectangle. The structure is strengthened, tightened with a galvanized mesh. The second wall is assembled in the same way. To simplify further work, you can immediately make cuts on short boards - in the upper part at an angle of 60 degrees, and in the lower part - 30 degrees.
2. Frame formation. The upper parts of both walls are connected and fastened with self-tapping screws, and transverse strips are placed on the lower parts to strengthen them from the outside. The basting of the cross bars is made not rigid so that it can be calibrated using spacers.
3. Spacers are installed at the level of the middle transverse bars every 30 cm. For a normal connection, cuts of 30 degrees are made from the ends. Fasten the boards with screws. When all the struts are installed, the lower cross bars are rigidly strengthened.
4. OSB sheathing is needed for chickens in order to hide from heat or rain. They upholster the upper part of the frame in whole or in part. It depends on the desire of the poultry farmer.
5. From above, the entire structure is reinforced with additional sheathing made of transverse wooden planks.

arched paddock

Aviaries in the form of an arch are separate fenced areas that are not attached to the chicken coop. Their advantage is that the walking area is fenced on all sides and the chickens will not be able to escape or fly away. From the outside it may seem that it is very difficult to build such a structure. But with a small number of poultry on the farm, they use a little trick.

The arched paddock has the shape of a standard greenhouse covered with chain-link mesh. For its construction, they take a ready-made strong frame of the greenhouse and assemble an aviary.

Here you do not have to think through such subtleties as supporting bases, the presence of an entrance door. The developers did everything themselves and offer an almost ready-made solution. It remains only to cover such a frame with a mesh, securing it with a ligamentous wire.

Requirements

It is very important to comply with the requirements for the paddock. Otherwise, the chickens may be too crowded or spacious.

The walking area per head is 3 square meters. The smaller space will quickly be trampled down to bare ground and no grass will grow there. A chicken needs fresh juicy greens for full development.

Important! If it is not possible to allocate a large area for walking, then you will have to mow and give grass daily in the summer. And in winter treat with hay, use premixes.

Peculiarities:

1. An aviary for chickens is easier to build from a chain-link mesh with metal posts. The chicken can fly high.
2. The height of the fence must be at least 2 meters. With a lower grid height, and a standard chain-link 1.5 meters wide, the corral is closed from above with a canopy. It will also allow the livestock to walk in rainy weather.
3. In any place along the perimeter, a gate is necessarily made so that a person can freely enter the walking area. In summer, grain feed and water are placed there, and the bird enters the chicken coop only for sleeping and laying eggs.

Attention! You can not have a pen for chickens and adult chickens in a lowland. Constant flooding during rains, dirt, dampness will lead to diseases.

There are various modifications of the pen for chickens. Most of them are invented by the farmers themselves, who know best the needs of their feathered stock. Taking this or that option as a basis, you can create something new, original and suitable for yourself.