How to insulate the walls in a steam bath. Bath insulation: how to do it right? About floor waterproofing

External or internal insulation of the bath is necessary. This reduces fuel consumption and slows down the process of cooling the air in the premises. If the design is not insulated, then it will take several times longer to heat the steam room to the desired temperature.

We warm the bath with our own hands

Before the construction of the building, it is necessary to calculate the means and forces for thermal insulation. It is best if the insulation process begins during construction, more precisely, from laying the foundation.

Basic requirements for materials for insulation of the bath

Cheap solutions (impregnation, septic tanks) will not fulfill the role of good thermal insulation. Of course, moisture protection is necessary in any case, but this is a separate task. It is necessary to warm the rooms of the bath separately, using materials specially created for this. Most attention is usually paid to the inside of the wash and steam room. The selection of insulation and thermal insulation is done with the expectation of rough building material.

One of the most important requirements for materials for insulation is non-toxicity. Because in a bathhouse under the influence of temperatures, toxic materials can easily cause poisoning. Non-hygroscopicity is also important, the insulation must in no case absorb moisture.

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When choosing a specific material, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

• resistance to steam and high temperatures;
• good fire fighting properties;
• environmental friendliness;
• low hygroscopicity;
• ability to maintain shape for a long period.

Types of insulation for a bath

All heaters presented on construction markets are divided into three conditional groups:

Of course, as far back as 50-60 years ago, only natural materials were used that were brought from the nearest forests. This is foam, tow or moss. Today, these are partly elite types of insulation, they cost serious money due to the need for their manual collection. Many fans of natural materials insulate their buildings with rolled jute felt or tow. Such material can be bought at hardware stores. As for moss, there are conflicting opinions regarding its use.   They say that moss is an imperfect material for warming, because it provokes the growth of mold or fungi. However, the moss itself does not have such properties, most likely, the fungus is formed due to improper felling of a wooden structure or poor ventilation.

How to work with different types of buildings

The installation procedure and the required amount of work depend on the material from which the bath is built.

Felling insulation

When working with a bar or log, you need to take into account the drying time, which can be 10 cm more. In addition, cracks form between the crowns of such buildings, and it is precisely in them that cold air blows. It is best to insulate a log from a round log or an assembly from a bar with a jute fiber.

This material does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity. Jute itself is a very fragile material, so manufacturers are trying to add flax fiber to it. But if you already have friable material in stock, you can perform classic caulking. So there will be less work, and the building will probably retain more heat.

If you decide to create a bath from wood, then the insulation is laid during construction.It is better to isolate all the problematic parts of the log house in the process.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

Insulation of buildings made of bricks or foam blocks

If the log houses are insulated in a primitive way, then you will have to work hard with the masonry. Yes, and financial investments are more specifically for work with insulation. Additional thermal insulation is necessary, otherwise a well-heated room will cool down in hours. Better to work by investing in materials than all the remaining time to stock up on fuel.

A common and proven method is a hinged ventilated facade. The workflow is not from the inside, but from the outside of the bath. It is necessary to fix the insulation layers to the walls, and to sheathe the siding or lining on top. In the gap between the layers, a space filled with air forms, due to which condensation will not form on the walls and rot and dampness will not follow.

The width of the frame for the ventilated facade is made more than the thickness of the insulation, so an air gap is formed inside, preventing the formation of condensate

For a brick building, the following trick is often practiced: indoors, a steam room is made of wood. Brick takes heat for a very long time, so it’s easier to warm a small steam room in a natural way if you use a small frame.

Enough 10x10 timber and crates. The process of warming such an impromptu steam room inside a large bath is simple:

You can make it even simpler: do not use the beam, but instead immediately fix the insulation on the frame. In this case, you need an additional layer of waterproofing.

Calculation and selection of materials and tools

We warm all surfaces of the steam room, wash room and dressing room. And for this you will need:

1. Roll paper (on the ceiling and walls).
2. Bar-rail (5x5, for installation of insulation on the ceiling and walls).
3. Foil.
4. Insulating tape.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Aluminum duct tape.
7. Insulation calculated on the area of \u200b\u200bwalls, ceilings and floor.

Of the tools you will need:

• screwdriver;
• level and plumb.

Do-it-yourself bath insulation

Any stages of warming are always performed according to the golden rule - they start from the ceiling and finish the floors.

Ceiling insulation

Before you start working with the ceiling, you need to understand that in the steam room you need 2 times more material. After all, we are working not on a sauna, but on a Russian bath, where steam should be delayed as long as possible.

The technology is as follows:

1. We cover the entire surface of the ceiling with overlapping roll paper.
2. We fix the bars on top of the paper, a heater will already lie between them.
3. We cover it all with foil. She will become a normal, safe insulator. But it is necessary to mount the foil without saving. It is important that all connections are closed.

   The foil layer reflects heat, so the use of such a material for the bath is necessary

4. We glue all joints on the foil with aluminum tape. Usually foil for insulation comes with the material.
5. The edges and joints are fixed with several layers of adhesive tape. We check our work for leaks. If there is not enough money for such a heater, then the foil is sometimes replaced with cardboard or thick paper without paint.
6. Next, we mount the insulation layers on the foil between the closed bars.

   On the ceiling, it is better to lay the insulation in two or three layers with overlapping joints

7. The front part of the ceiling is covered with a wood paneling. This material is resistant to elevated temperatures and will not tar.

For a frame bath, insulation on the ceiling and walls must be laid, but for a timber and log you can do without it. For example, if the bathhouse is made of logs, it is enough to first sew up the ceiling with thick boards - at least 6 cm. Mineral wool is most suitable as a heater for the ceiling - only put it in a layer of at least 15 cm.

Video: insulation and ceiling decoration from the inside

Wall insulation

The best solution for wall insulation is a constructor made of materials that can be easily repaired or replaced.

The structure of the wall insulation of the bath resembles a roofing cake device

Video: insulation and foil upholstery in a double room

Insulation of the floor in the bath

And finally, let's work on the floor. After all, a large amount of heated air usually leaves the room through it. Expanded clay is most often used as insulation for floors - this is an inexpensive and reliable insulation that prevents the appearance of mold and condensation.

It is cheaper, of course, to spill everything with slag, but expanded clay is more environmentally friendly and weighs less. When installing wooden floors, the material is placed between the lags. If a concrete floor is poured, then expanded clay is laid between each concrete layer.

We will analyze the usual cycle of work on warming a concrete floor.

Video: features of the device of the concrete floor in the bath

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, they also pay attention to the insulation of doors, windows and window openings. They are treated with silicone sealants. It is customary to insulate external doors with natural materials. And it’s not customary to save on them, otherwise after a few years, or even for the next season, everything will have to be redone.

A Russian bath with a steam room is the key to health and longevity, but in order for the healing procedures to bring maximum benefits, it is necessary to choose the right insulation for different designs of the bath, taking into account the different functionality, humidity conditions of the rooms, the material of individual elements. In addition, it is necessary to know the technology of the insulating process, compliance with which will not only save heat in the bath, but also significantly reduce the consumption of energy fuel. To determine which insulation is best for a bath, you need to know the positive and negative sides of each type of thermal insulation material.

Types of modern insulation

What heaters can be used in the bath

Manufacturers offer a wide range of heat-insulating materials, but do not forget the traditional methods of insulation, used for centuries, which can be used in the bath today. Among modern heaters of artificial origin, the following are popular:

• sheets of extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
• the simplest foam;
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool products;
• ecowool;
• expanded clay gravel and expanded clay concrete slabs;
• combined heaters in the form of basalt mats or polystyrene material with a foil coating.

Despite the high thermal insulation qualities of all these materials, it is necessary to choose the insulation that meets the requirements of safety, environmental friendliness and durability for different rooms of the bathhouse structure.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene (colloquially polystyrene) is used to insulate the walls of the bath outside, attic floor or floor in the steam room. The advantages of this material include:

• high degree of resistance to moisture;
• immunity to microorganisms and mold;
• does not support open fire;
• low specific gravity;
• low cost;
• simple processing.

The negative characteristics include the “love” of mice for polystyrene foam, as well as the release of toxic substances with plastic material in the event of a fire in a bathhouse. Therefore, it is not recommended to be used for warming a steam room. Gnawing the material, mice and rats thereby reduce its thermal insulation characteristics. Regarding the emission of toxic fumes, we can say that people are not in the steam room for too long, and the use of such a heater is quite acceptable. In addition, modern industry produces special types of polystyrene that are approved by SanPiN for use inside residential and public buildings. For example, various decorative elements of an interior - moldings, fillet, plinths and other.

Extruded Styrofoam

This material has all the properties that are inherent in foam, but with a smaller thickness of the product, it is able to maintain the same thermal insulation characteristics. Extruded polystyrene foam is more durable than polystyrene due to its dense structure, as a result of which its duration of operation increases significantly. The material is a non-combustible insulation. When sparks of fire hit him, he does not support further burning. A negative factor is its increased cost compared to the price of its counterpart. However, it is still not recommended to use it for warming the steam room from the inside, as well as polystyrene, since these materials can withstand temperatures without losing their properties no higher than +75 degrees, and as you know, the temperature in the steam room can sometimes reach significantly higher degrees.

Polyurethane foam

  Wall insulation with polyurethane foam spraying method

Polyurethane foam in the form of liquid insulation appeared on the building materials market not so long ago. The essence of its application is to spray a polyurethane two-component liquid, which, when interacting with air, turns into 90% foam consisting of air bubbles. After a few minutes, the foam hardens, almost tenfold increasing in volume.

Foamed polyurethane has a whole bunch of positive properties:

• high heat and sound insulation qualities;
• strength, flexibility and elasticity;
• resistance to deformation processes;
• environmental safety, since the material is made from pure products, when heated, harmful substances and unpleasant odors are not released from it;
• the ability to easily withstand sudden changes in temperature from + 100 degrees to -90, which allows the material to be used as thermal insulation for a Russian bath or Finnish sauna.

The foamed polyurethane used as a heater, in addition to the foregoing, is a completely fireproof material, covering all wooden elements with a dense layer, allowing the fire to spread. It also protects the wood of buildings from the penetration of harmful insects, which naturally extends the life of the bath.

Compared to other types of insulation, foamed polyurethane is easily and quickly applied to any surface, regardless of their configuration. With skillful action, the thickness of the insulation layer can be different.

The negative factors of using this type of insulation include the fact that it can be used only if there is a special device spraying liquid. And its acquisition or rental requires certain financial costs and handling skills.

Mineral wool products

Mineral wool differs in the source material, which can be:

• fiberglass;
• material obtained from a melt of natural rock stone - basalt, dolomite, diabase and others;
• metallurgical industry waste in the form of slag.

Almost all of these types of mineral wool can be used as insulation for a steam room, a washing room and other structural elements of a bathhouse. However, in comparison with polystyrene materials, the thickness of the mineral wool insulation layer is increasing. Basalt wool is more popular, given its technical characteristics.

Basalt insulation

The advantage of this material is:

• high thermal insulation ability;
• resistance to sudden changes in temperature;
• the material is not exposed to fire;
• has good mechanical strength, low specific gravity;
• basalt cotton wool easily fits on a design of any configuration, excluding the formation of cold bridges at the joints;
• the duration of the operational period.

But this material also has its drawbacks, which are the fear of water and the fact that rodents are not at all afraid to make their own minks in it. Wet basalt wool loses its heat-insulating qualities, and when wet material comes into contact with wooden structures, the rotting process begins in the latter. Therefore, the use of basalt insulation for the bath, and specifically in the steam room is not recommended.

Glass wool

Glass wool, having the same technical characteristics as the basalt material, differs from it in that it is not so much exposed to moisture. It tolerates the process of laying and transportation, wrinkled fibers are completely restored.

Mice and rats do not touch it, it fits well, but its use entails the difficulty of installation due to the released small fibers, which irritate the skin of a person and are dangerous if they get into the respiratory organs. In addition to the disadvantages of this material include:

• short term of operation;
• lower degree of thermal insulation compared to other types of insulation;
• the presence of some brands of formaldehyde resins.

Slaggy

The insulation is made from blast furnace slag, which is not distinguished by its environmental cleanliness and safety for human health. Of the advantages of slag should be noted:

• a relatively high ability to retain heat and damp sounds, but to a lesser extent than that of;
• low cost;
• does not give in to rodents, the development of mold and other microorganisms;
• simple and easy installation, comparable with the installation of other types of mineral watts.

Of the disadvantages:

High coefficient of moisture absorption. When wet, it can release acid, which has a destructive effect on metal structures and fasteners, causing corrosion.

Low resistance to sudden changes in temperature, which is typical of such rooms as baths.

The difficulty of laying, given the excessive fragility of the fibers, which have the same sharp and prickly edges as the glass wool.

The presence of such hazardous substances in the insulation as phenol, formaldehyde.

Ecowool

The material is made from recycled materials, which is waste paper, fluffed and treated with flame retardants and antiseptics. It has a gray or light gray color, a loose fibrous structure. The advantages of this fairly new type of insulation include:

• good heat and sound insulation properties;
• resistance to high temperatures;
• long time does not support open fire;
• well resists to processes of decay; environmentally friendly, if you do not take into account its impregnation with flame retardants and antiseptics. But these substances are low toxic and non-volatile.

The material can absorb moisture, but also easily releases it into the surrounding area when a certain level of air dryness is reached. After drying, the thermal insulation properties of ecowool remain at the same level. Before applying ecowool to the surface of the insulated structure, the material must be slightly moistened. The lignin in its composition under the influence of water fastens the fibers together and adheres well to any surface. It can be used for warming attic floors with a dry method. It is not recommended to use inside the bath rooms, as the material will not have time to dry after each use of the bath.

Expanded clay

To insulate attic floors, floors, fill cavities in masonry with "wells", expanded clay gravel of various fractions is used. In terms of thermal conductivity, this material is inferior to many types of insulation, but its main advantage is its low price and versatility. In addition to the bulk method of warming, expanded clay granules can be a filler for lightweight concrete.

Foil insulation

Whichever type of insulation was chosen, during its installation it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier film. Foil insulation combines both vapor barrier and thermal insulation. But besides this, he still works as a reflector of thermal radiation, preventing heat from going out through various slots, and loose connections between the structures. Material is made in various options:

• from basalt fiber;
• foamed polyethylene;
• mineral material;
• extruded polystyrene foam.

The finest aluminum foil is pasted on top of each material. The shiny side of the insulating material should be facing inside. It can be used for all structures and rooms of the bath.

The main essence of the article

When warming a bathhouse, it is necessary to use various types of heat-insulating materials that are most effective for rooms of various functions and meet certain requirements - durability, low cost, the ability to retain heat inside the bathhouse, and be safe for human health.

Thermal insulation of the steam room is necessary in any bathhouse, regardless of the material of its manufacture. It is best to devote time to this business at the construction stage, although this can also be done in a finished bath. You will learn how to perform the warming of the steam room in the bathhouse with your own hands from our article.

Content:

Steam room is the most important room in the bathhouse. It should not be cold, and such a statement can hardly be challenged. Each zealous owner of the bath tries to minimize any heat loss in its steam room, as the extra costs for heating, problems with heating the room, the heat in it and the discomfort of bath procedures usually do not please anyone. For reliable thermal insulation of the steam room, it is necessary to go through several stages of the work on warming its walls, floor and ceiling.

Features of reducing heat loss in the steam room

• The area of \u200b\u200bconstruction is determined depending on the number of visitors simultaneously present in it and the number of its rooms - a steam room, locker room and others. The size of the steam room is usually 4-6 m 2.
• The locker room is planned closer to the front door of the bath. This will keep the cold air from entering the steam room.
• To save heat, the entrance from the steam room to the adjacent room can be arranged in the form of a vestibule.
• The doorway for the steam room is performed with a high threshold and a width of not more than 0.7 m.
• The sauna stove is located closer to the exit.
• To reduce heat loss through the window, the latter is made of a two-chamber double-glazed window and is placed at a height of 1 m from the floor of the twin compartment.

Thermal insulation materials for steam room insulation

Natural raw materials include: tow, which is used to fill the cracks, sphagnum, which serves as an intervening seal, building frame moss - wall insulation. These materials are environmentally friendly and do a good job of protecting rooms from heat loss. However, they are subject to rapid decay and are a treat for insects. For this reason, natural heaters are recommended to be treated with antiseptics, and for the steam room, their use is undesirable.

Expanded clay and polystyrene boards, basalt cotton wool and ordinary polystyrene are used as artificial materials for insulation. All of them are characterized by moisture resistance, biological safety, long-term operation and a high degree of thermal insulation. Expanded clay slabs are used to insulate the floor of steam rooms, polystyrene foam for their attic floors, and basalt wool for walls and ceilings.

For insulation and waterproofing of the walls and ceiling of the steam room, foil insulation is currently used. It is a roll of basalt wool with a layer of aluminum foil glued on it. Using this material, the process of insulation of structures is greatly simplified - the foil protects the insulation from moisture and contributes to the reflection of heat from building envelopes inside the room.

Insulation of the ceiling of the steam room in the bath

The work consists of five stages:

1. With the help of a stapler, a heater is attached to the ceiling beams, facing a layer of aluminum foil inside the room, which simultaneously serves as a heat-reflecting screen. This will reduce the cost of heating and maintaining the heat of the steam room by 2-3 times. The joints of the panels of the insulator, overlapped, glued with aluminum tape. Other vapor barrier materials are also used for baths, but they are not so effective.
2. The ceiling lathing supporting the insulation is fastened with screws across the ceiling beams. The lathing is necessary for the installation of the outer skin of the ceiling. On the inner side of the ceiling of the room between the future cladding and sheets of foil insulation, an air heat-reflecting gap is left.
3. The selected insulation is laid from the attic side between the ceiling beams. It should be tight, without the slightest clearance.
4. On top of the insulation, a film of polyethylene is laid and fixed to protect it from moisture and dust from the street. To avoid mechanical damage to multilayer insulation in the attic, a rough plank floor is laid on the beams.
5. At the last stage of work, the ceiling of the steam room is sheathed on the crate with a wooden lining. The material for it can be hardwood - linden, aspen, etc. Which material to choose is up to you.

When warming a steam room in a frame bath, such a thermal insulation of the ceiling is necessary, and for a log house - optional. There are enough 6 cm thick boards fixed to the ceiling beams, and a layer of mineral wool of 15 cm.

Thermal insulation of the steam room walls in the bath

The procedure is as follows:

• To exclude the possibility of vapor formation on the walls of the condensate, the enclosing structures of the steam room are covered with a waterproofing film.
• The thermal insulation layer of mineral wool is laid in a crate of timber, which is packed on the wall for waterproofing and an intermediate layer of clean paper.
• The vapor barrier layer protects the insulation from exposure to humid air. For this purpose, a foil membrane is used, which is mounted on top of the insulation to the crate using a stapler. The joints of her paintings, overlapped, glued with metal tape.
• At the last stage, a lining made of hardwood is attached to the wooden frame of the wall on top of the membrane.

Important! Before external wall cladding, thin rails must be filled on the crate to create an air gap, which together with the foil membrane will create a heat-reflecting effect.

Insulation of the steam room floor in the bath

The concrete floor is stronger and more durable than wood, as it is not afraid of moisture. Screed tiles are very easy to care for. But tile is a cold material. Wooden floors for a steam room are much more suitable. To reduce its heat loss, both types of floors require insulation.

Insulation of the wooden floor in the steam room

After installing the lag and laying the vapor barrier material, the space between the floor beams is filled with insulation. They can be sand, slag, expanded clay, mats made of fiberglass or mineral wool and polystyrene. The waterproofing and the final floor are laid on the insulation.

Thermal insulation of the concrete floor in the steam room

You can notice that such a floor is similar to a kind of “sandwich”, consisting of a pair of concrete layers and a heater laid between them. In the same way, the floor of the bathhouse erected on a columnar foundation is insulated. The difference here is that the monolithic base is replaced by a reinforced concrete slab laid on a frame made of a metal channel.

Work on floor insulation in the steam room consists of several stages:

1. Laying the base of the lower floor layer is performed from a concrete mixture having a crushed stone fraction of 20-35 mm. The thickness of the concrete cushion is 120-150 mm.
2. The waterproofing is laid after the polymerisation of concrete. Materials for it can serve as roofing material, roofing and bituminous mastics. Before applying the latter, the base is painted with a special primer. The waterproofing is laid on a concrete surface after processing it with two or three layers of bitumen material.
3. Mineral wool, perlite, boiler slag with a layer of 250-300 mm, polystyrene, expanded clay with a layer of 100-150 mm, etc. are used for the installation of insulation.
4. The second layer of the floor is laid on the insulating material. In the concrete of this layer, a smaller fraction of crushed stone is used.

The finished floor can be covered with a platform made of wood. After the bathing procedures, it is removed, washed and dried.

• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation

Often, the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not warm the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside, paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• anticorrosive composition;
• building level;
• front panels;

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Stage 3: floor insulation

The scheme of floor insulation in the bath.

The scheme of insulation of the bath outside.

Do-it-yourself steam insulation: step-by-step instructions (video and photo)

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step instructions

Warming the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. The thermal insulation of this room can be called high-quality if the insulation work was carried out with a ceiling, floor and walls.

The steam room must be kept at a high temperature. At the same time, heat loss must be minimized, and the steam room insulation from the inside will help to achieve the necessary level of thermal protection. When erecting a bathhouse, you should equip this room in accordance with all the rules.

The better the thermal protection of the steam room will be performed, the less fuel will be required to heat it during operation, and the longer it will be able to save steam in it, which has a beneficial effect on the human body. Regardless of the material of construction of the bath, the process of insulation certainly consists of thermal insulation of the ceiling, flooring and walls.

Materials used in the arrangement of paired

In order to produce an internal warming of the steam room, in former times people used exclusively environmentally friendly materials. They not only retained heat well and were easy to use, but at the same time had a number of drawbacks, including susceptibility to rotting.

Modern materials meet many of the requirements for them:

• successfully withstand high temperatures;
• well tolerate high humidity;
• do not emit substances harmful to human health;
• look aesthetically pleasing.

In order to perform thermal insulation of the steam room from the inside, use the following building materials:

• wooden slats (for arrangement of the lathing);
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• polyethylene film;
• penoizol (can be replaced with aluminum foil);
• polystyrene foam;
• perlite;
• concrete mortar;
• reinforcing mesh.

Before warming the steam room in the bath from the inside, you should prepare the tools:

For the interior cladding of the steam room, most often they choose wooden slats, boards or lining, which depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the building. It is the tree that meets the operational requirements for such premises.

Ideally suited is a low-density hardwood - alder, maple, linden and aspen. As for conifers, at high temperatures, their wood will begin to release tar.

Insulation of the walls of the steam room from the inside

Properly performed insulation of the walls of the steam room from the inside is a structure of several layers: steam, hydro and thermal insulation. Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of the first of them, since it should protect the remaining layers from the influence of hot steam. In the case of its penetration into the insulation, this material may become wet and lose all its properties.

Most often, vapor barrier is equipped with aluminum foil or special insulators that are coated with a foil layer, for example, it can be a foam insulation (the material is shown in the photo). At the same time, experts do not recommend the use of such well-known vapor insulators as roofing material, polyethylene, and glassine when cladding a steam room, since at high temperatures they begin to release toxins hazardous to human health.

In turn, the foil does not allow the insulation to get wet and at the same time provides the effect of a thermos, as a result of which heat will be retained for a long time indoors.

Waterproofing is essential to protect the insulation material from moisture. The fact is that poorly laid waterproofing material in conditions of high humidity, namely such air in the steam room, can provoke the beginning of the rotting process. The appearance of mold and fungus on the walls can cause irreparable harm to both the structure and human health.

For waterproofing, foil or special film materials are most often used. The joints of the paintings need to be sealed with tape to prevent the penetration of steam and condensate into the thermal insulation. All these materials for arranging waterproofing are mounted using a construction stapler.

The next layer in creating the thermal protection of the steam room will be the installation of thermal insulation, which is done using materials that have the property of retaining heat. These include mineral wool and glass wool.

The first of the above insulation is eco-friendly natural products. But mineral wool is afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet. When using mineral wool, it is necessary by all possible means to ensure that moist air does not penetrate, therefore this insulation is carefully wrapped with foil and films.

Glass wool differs from mineral wool in that it does not get wet and therefore it can be used to insulate a steam room from the inside. When the steam room is insulated from the inside, the step-by-step instruction assumes that work should be started by fixing the wooden crates to the walls, to which the insulation is then mounted.

Thermal protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Basically, heat losses in the steam room occur due to insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, since the flow of warm air always rises. For this reason, the ceiling should be insulated not only from the side of the room, but also from the attic.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the steam room is performed similarly to how it is done with walls. First of all, fix the wooden crate. Then a heat-insulating material is attached to it, preferably glass wool. On top of it, they are covered with vapor barrier, and already the outer finishing layer is mounted on it - most often the lining.

As for the ceiling from the attic, it can additionally be insulated with straw, clay, sawdust or other materials. Special mastics are used near the chimney pipe for fire safety.

Currently, a variety of floor coverings are installed in steam rooms. You can insulate the floor, for example, with polystyrene foam. This material is characterized by high mechanical strength, sufficiently low thermal conductivity, and in addition, once in a humid environment, does not change its qualities.

When with its application, the steam room is insulated from the inside - the step-by-step operation is as follows:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on the prepared even base using a special film on which polystyrene boards are laid tightly against one another.
2. To give the structure greater strength in order to increase the service life, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on the polystyrene foam and the concrete mortar is poured. When performing work, you must not forget about arranging a small slope to ensure water discharge.
3. After the concrete has finally hardened, which usually takes about a month, you can begin laying the finish floor surface. A good option is to lay ceramic tiles.

It is also possible to insulate the steam room floor with the help of such a natural material as perlite, which is sand, expanded by a special method. To create insulation, 2 parts of perlite and a part of water are taken, mixed and combined with cement. The whole mass is well mixed.

The floor of the steam room is poured with a concrete screed, on top of which the insulation mixture is placed and allowed to dry for a week. Then they again make a screed and finish the work with a finishing floor covering made of finishing material.

Sometimes in a steam room wooden lattices are placed on a high-quality concreted, durable and reliable floor, which should be periodically dried during operation to avoid rotting and quick spoilage.

How to insulate a steam room?

• What will be required for the work?
• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation
• Stage 4: insulation in the steam bath outside

Often, the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not warm the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside. paying particular attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

At the same time, it is necessary to produce a warming of a steam room qualitatively, performing all the work in stages. Below is a step-by-step instruction. She will help you in this not easy, but so important matter.

What will be required for the work?

The first step is to prepare all the materials and tools that will be needed to heat the steam room. Here is a list of them:

• roll insulation material;
• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• wood material for lining (linden, aspen);
• anticorrosive composition;
• building level;
• front panels;
• water-repellent varnish for wood.

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Scheme of ceiling insulation in the steam room.

First of all, thermal insulation in the steam room should be made for the ceiling. First you need to cover it with roll paper, it is important that its joints are overlapped (from 10 to 15 cm). After that, it needs to be strengthened, otherwise deformation will occur during further work. To do this, you need to take the cubes (size 5x5 cm) and nail them to a roll of insulating material.

It is important here to create a monolithic coating so that seams with gaps do not form, otherwise the waterproofing will be impaired.

As a result, steam will penetrate into the roll insulation material, which will lead to its deformation and deterioration of its operational characteristics.

Scheme of the ceiling device in the steam room.

Now you need to fix the foil with additional cubes. This will prevent its peeling off, and also the finished crate will allow you to quickly lay the finishing material. In its role should be wood. The use of non-environmentally friendly materials is simply unacceptable. After all, you will inhale the harmful substances that they secrete, taking water procedures in the bath. As a result, instead of improving your health, you, on the contrary, will worsen it. It’s great if you start to use linden or aspen for covering the ceiling. These materials emit special resins that heal the body and make the atmosphere in the bath better, as a pleasant smell spreads.

You can fix the finishing material on nails, be sure to pre-treat them with an anticorrosive composition. The wood itself must be coated with water-repellent varnish. It is better to do this before it is fixed on the ceiling. After all, then you can process it immediately from all sides, which will extend its service life.

With the help of boards you need to create an even coating. To eliminate the occurrence of skew, be sure to use the construction level. In addition, for finishing, choose only those boards that have the same thickness, otherwise differences in height in the finished coating can not be avoided.

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Do not assume that only the ceiling needs to be insulated. Walls also need additional decoration using insulating materials. Therefore, having completed work with the ceiling, you will need to go to them. It is also necessary to start wall insulation from laying out the roll material. It must then be nailed with a wooden frame, on which the foil is immediately lined. But here it is necessary to take it 65-70 mm thick. After all, much more heat leaves through the walls than through the ceiling. Therefore, the use of thinner material is not permissible. Spread it with an overlap, and glue all the joints several times with masking tape. Then it will be possible to make the surface of the walls as tight as possible. As a result, the steam room will be as warm as possible.

After that, a wooden frame is installed on the foil fixed on the wall surface. And already finishing material is mounted on it. It is not necessary to use boards here. You can choose wall paneling. By the way, the ceiling can also be trimmed with it, but then the insulation in the steam bath will go a penny, but if you have allocated a significant budget for this, then feel free to stop your choice on this material. Aesthetic and operational properties will not disappoint you. Wall decoration will work out well and will delight every time you receive water procedures.

Stage 3: floor insulation

The scheme of floor insulation in the bath.

Now you can produce floor insulation in the steam room. Here, work is carried out according to a slightly different scheme. The first step is to make waterproofing. It is necessary so that mold, fungus does not appear inside the floor and rot does not occur. This layer will protect the floor from condensation. To create it, you will need to use a plastic film. It is laid out on the entire surface of the floor. If there are seams, then make large joints and glue them with masking tape.

Next, you need to create another layer on top of the film. It needs to be laid out from a clean thick paper. It is necessary so that no harmful substances are released from the base of the floor. In addition, such a layer will minimize the loss of hot air. It will definitely require fixing a wooden frame of small width. And on the frame you need to lay out and fix the mineral wool plates with screws.

Then the following material is laid out on the floor surface: polystyrene. It must be mounted on top of the cotton wool on small studs. After that, it will be necessary to cover it with foil, and lay on it again a plastic film. So many layers must be created in order to minimize heat leakage through the floor, which occur through it in large quantities. As a result, the insulation will turn out to be very high quality.

And the last thing that needs to be done is to create another frame on the floor surface. It should be thicker than the previous one. It is necessary for subsequent finishing. After all, on the surface of the floor you need to lay out boards. Pre-treat them with water-repellent varnish.

Stage 4: insulation in the steam bath outside

If your bath is wooden, then you need to insulate it from the outside. After all, a sealed floor, walls and ceiling in this case will not be enough. Therefore, here you need to create a crate on the outside of the bath, lay on it mineral wool slabs. They need to be fixed on self-tapping screws or nails. Then the plastic film is lined. Next, facade panels are laid on it. All of them must be varnished. This will protect them from adverse environmental factors.

Of these stages is the insulation in the steam bath. As it becomes clear, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work. It is not enough to insulate only the surface of the walls and floor, you also need to remember about the ceiling and the outer skin. This is the only way to do quality work. Its result will not disappoint you. And since the entire instruction is presented in an accessible form and is step-by-step, then using it, you can do it yourself.

The main thing is to prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance. Good luck in warming the steam room!

How to insulate a steam room in a bath with your own hands

Foreword. From ancient times in Russia, baths were built from log cabins; today, along with this traditional material, timber, foam concrete block, expanded clay and other modern materials are used. The thermal insulation of the steam room will solve the problem of rapid heat loss and the heat from the steam room will not go away so quickly.

How to warm the steam room in a wooden bath? The thermal insulation of the dressing room and the steam room will be of high quality if the work touches all three planes of the steam room - floor, walls and ceiling. Most of the heat goes through the ceiling of the bath, but the rest of the surfaces should not be ignored, including the door to the bath. Consider how to properly heat the steam room in the bath.

Do I need to warm the steam room in the bath

A photo. Do-it-yourself warming from the inside

Despite the low thermal conductivity of modern and traditional materials, any steam room needs high-quality insulation. Especially when it comes to internal thermal insulation of structures in the steam room - walls, floor and ceiling. Warming the steam room is a very responsible matter, during the work it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions of the manufacturers and take into account other nuances.

For example, not all heat and vapor barrier materials can be used when decorating the floor and ceiling in a bathhouse. Many materials do not withstand moisture, and if you use roofing material or glassine in this room, then visiting the steam room can spoil the unpleasant odors from these materials. The choice of thermal insulation is carried out depending on the material from which the bath was built.

How to insulate the steam room in the bath inside

The most common materials for the erection of the walls of the bath are a log, timber, foam concrete, aerated concrete or expanded clay. Compared to natural wood, the thermal conductivity of the blocks is higher, which means that thermal insulation of the steam room is simply necessary. But, before considering the technology of the work, you should figure out how and how to heat the steam room in the sauna from the beam with your own hands.

If basalt wool was chosen as thermal insulation, then high-quality vapor barrier of mineral wool should be made, since this material absorbs moisture. The most balanced solution for decorating damp rooms is penoplex or foil penofol. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for independent insulation of the strip foundation and the blind area of \u200b\u200ba private house.

For owners of baths from blocks, the question is whether or not to insulate the room from the inside. It is important to learn how to heat a steam room in a bath of blocks yourself. The technology of thermal insulation is divided into three main stages: arrangement and insulation of walls, floors, and also the ceiling of a steam room in a brick. All work can be done on their own and inexpensively.

How to insulate the walls of the steam room with your own hands

A photo. Thermal insulation of walls in a steam room from a log

The thermal insulation of the log walls in the steam room from the inside is a layered “pie” of vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing layer. A vapor barrier film from the side of a warm room protects the mineral wool from moisture and steam, in addition, it additionally creates a “thermos” effect in the steam room and is a natural heat reflector.

Roll waterproofing eliminates the ingress of moisture on the walls from a log or timber, protects the structure from condensation and the formation of fungus and prevents the process of decay of the structure. To do this, use a plastic film, foamed polyethylene or foil. A waterproofing film is placed between the thermal insulation layer and the walls in a steam room made of blocks or wood.

The insulation layer itself is laid between the rails mounted on the wall. When mounting the frame, please note that the distance between the rails must be 1 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab so that the basalt plate fits tightly into the frame. If you use plate heat insulation, then all the cracks should be thoroughly foamed.

How to insulate the ceiling of a steam room with your own hands

A photo. Heat insulation in the steam room

If many people neglect the thermal insulation of the walls, then it is simply necessary to do the insulation of the ceiling in the steam room with your own hands in any bathhouse. Since this part of any structure is the most vulnerable in terms of heat loss. Through the ceiling of the steam room, hot air leaves the room in a short time.

For thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room, inexpensive running materials were used before - sawdust mixed with ordinary earth or expanded clay. Bulk thermal insulation covered the ceiling boards above the steam room, thereby significantly reducing the heat loss of the room. These "grandfather" methods, even with the advent of new materials, have not lost their relevance to this day.

The ideal option for finishing the ceiling in the steam room is the thermal insulation of this design from the outside, i.e. from the attic side. To do this, use glass wool or basalt insulation. Where a chimney pipe comes out of the ceiling, you should use a non-combustible insulation - expanded clay or Minvata Rocklight. We will consider further how to insulate the floor in the steam room.

How to insulate the floor of the steam room with your own hands

A photo. Floor insulation in a steam foam

Consider a more common option for floor insulation in a steam room - using foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex extrusion meets all the necessary requirements for the insulation of wet rooms. This material does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of rodents, but the insulation should be laid only on an even basis.

Most often, the floor in the bath is insulated under the screed. To do this, a waterproofing film is laid on the ground to protect it from groundwater, then a plate insulation is laid. The gaps and cracks between the plates should be sealed with foam. At the end, a reinforcing mesh is laid and a concrete screed is made. For waterproofing concrete, a penetron penetron or liquid glass should be used.

To finish the floor in the steam room, floor tiles or porcelain tiles are used. You can also lay the wooden floor on the logs, which will be more pleasant and warm for the legs.

How to insulate a steam room

Without a good steam room, the bath loses the meaning of existence. During the construction of baths, this room is given special attention. The main task of the steam room is to store hot air and steam for a long time, to ensure the quality of bath procedures at the highest level. And the main work of builders is to perform the warming of the steam room in the bath in such a way as to exclude long heating and quick cooling, to increase the concentration of steam.

Poorly performed insulation work, the use of low-quality materials will inevitably lead to dampness, mold, rotting of wooden structures. This applies to all surfaces of the steam room: floor, walls, ceiling. It is very important to carry out scrupulously and step-by-step work on warming the steam room from the inside, step-by-step instructions will help you to correctly navigate the sequence of actions and the choice of materials.

Choice of insulation

Steam room is a specific room, therefore, the choice of thermal insulation materials for walls, ceiling and floor should be approached responsibly. The heater for the steam room should be moisture resistant, not afraid of significant temperatures, not emit toxic substances. Most suitable for these definitions is mineral wool, or rather its variety - stone or basalt wool. It is produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses and dimensions. The material is easily cut with an ordinary construction knife, so stone wool slabs are very easy to adjust to the desired size. For arranging the floor and ceiling from the outside, bulk insulation is used - expanded clay or expanded perlite.

As a vapor and waterproofing for steam rooms, foil material is most suitable. It is available on a foam basis or on kraft paper. You can use any of them, but in the case of insulation of the steam room from the inside, preference is usually given to the second option.

The procedure for performing insulation procedures

The process of warming the steam room in the bath goes from top to bottom. That is, work begins to be carried out from the ceiling, then - the walls and, last but not least, - the floor. It will not be superfluous to remind that before starting insulation work, wooden surfaces should be cleaned of dust and signs of fungal manifestations. It is necessary to treat the wood with antiseptic preparations and a flame retardant, since the steam room can be insulated in the bathhouse from the inside qualitatively and effectively only on a well-prepared basis.

Ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is most conveniently performed from the attic. Ideally, this should be done from two sides, because the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable parts of any building, especially a bathhouse. It is through this design that the largest share of internal heat loss occurs. So on top:

• a layer of a rolled vapor barrier is attached to the draft ceiling, tightly closing all joints and making an inlet on the pediment and rafter elements;
• pour a layer of expanded clay or foamed perlite, level it;
• in places where thermal insulation contacts the chimney, they are treated with fireproof mastics.

The warming of the steam room in a wooden bath from the inside on the ceiling is as follows. If the ceiling structure below has a smooth surface, then a frame is constructed on it. If there are ribs, this is not necessary. The first layer of the heat-insulating cake is a vapor-insulating membrane, which is attached to the base, observing the configuration of the ribbed surface. Then, between the beams, slabs of stone wool are laid as tightly as possible and covered with another layer of vapor barrier. The next stage of warming the steam room, its upper part, is the device of a protective layer of foil material. The joints between the individual sheets are sealed with adhesive tape made of aluminum foil. Particular attention should be paid to the places where the ceiling joins the walls in order to prevent the slightest possibility of the appearance of “cold bridges”. If necessary, use mounting foam.

Baths are not only built of wood, there are options for brick buildings. In such buildings, the process of performing thermal insulation works looks somewhat different. The warming of a steam room in a brick bath begins at the stage of construction of the roof structure. The supporting ceiling beams, which are to be embedded in brick walls, are wrapped with two to three layers of glassine or roofing material before laying. The nests for them make a little wider than the beams themselves, the free space is filled with polyurethane foam or mortar. Outside, the recesses are closed with masonry. Next, the installation of the ceiling structure is carried out, and the insulation is performed in the same way as in the log house.

Wall insulation

Warming of the wall surfaces of a brick bath begins with the application of a waterproofing layer on them. Most often used roll materials or mastics that do not contain bitumen. Because the specific smell of this material when heated can penetrate into the room and spoil the positive impression of visiting the steam room. Further, the process of production of thermal insulation works for walls made of brick and wood is the same and is performed in the following order:

• vertically arranged bars are stuffed on the walls with a step equal to the width of the stone wool slabs;
• with the help of a construction stapler, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, carefully wrapping each beam with it;
• between the bars the heat-insulating material is densely laid in one or two layers, depending on the thickness of the plates; stone wool is a little springy, so it holds well by itself and does not require additional fastening;
• the upper vapor barrier layer is made of aluminum foil on kraft paper, you can use foil material on a foam basis, but the first option works more reliably in wet conditions.

Fastening the foil is done end-to-end, and the seams are closed with a special protective tape on an adhesive basis. All work must be done carefully and responsibly, but special care is required to seal the corners and places where the walls mate with the ceiling surface.

Floor insulation

To make warm floors in the steam room is no less important than to properly insulate the walls and ceiling. Two options can be used: with the use of plate materials or bulk. However, in both cases it is necessary to start with leveling the surface and the rough preparation device. And here, too, there can be two performances: with and without drain. By and large, they do not use water in the steam room, so there is no need to arrange a drain hole there. But some developers do it. Then, when arranging the floor cake, starting from the preparatory layer, biases are made towards the drain. Otherwise, the floor should be strictly horizontal. Now about the floor design itself:

1. Insulation with expanded polystyrene plates. For rough preparation, they lay a waterproofing layer with a small lap on the walls. Then the insulation plates are laid in one or two rows, depending on the thickness. The next step is the laying of the reinforcing mesh and then the screed with cement-sand mortar.
2. For insulation with bulk materials, expanded clay or perlite is used. First, they must make waterproofing. Then pour a layer of dry insulation of the required thickness, level it with a plaster rule by level. The coating layer is made with concrete mixture or mortar.

Clean floor in the sauna is made of rough ceramic tiles, granite. Often use traditional wood coverings. Terrace board behaves perfectly. In addition, its use is useful in terms of safety, as the board has a corrugated surface and does not slip.

Wall and ceiling paneling in the steam room

For wall and ceiling cladding in a steam room, a wooden lining is usually used. Each owner chooses and equips the design of the steam room of the bathhouse to his liking. However, there are general rules that must be followed. First of all, it is a species of wood from which the lining is made. The most suitable are linden, aspen, larch. It is undesirable to use rocks containing a large number of resins. At high temperatures, they emit a heavy odor vapor. The next requirement is that the lining should not have knots, cracks or other defects. That is, a high quality material is best suited for facing a steam room.

The principle of wall and ceiling cladding is traditional. On aluminum foil, a crate is made with the location of the beam under the planned layout of the lining. Then, the strips are attached to the frame, connecting them with thorn groove locks.

Warming the steam room from the inside - step by step instructions

Before warming the steam room, the bath owner must choose the right heat-insulating material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must exhibit high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient should not rise above 0.2 W / (m K). And this is only for flooring. And for wall and ceiling insulation it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W / (m K).

Secondly, the insulator should not react to moisture. Especially floor material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or a reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of flooring this material will not work.

Thirdly, an open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. There are no special requirements on walls and attic floors. Here, the characteristics of the material can be improved due to the external finish.

Fourth, steam room insulation implies constant contact of the material with the high temperature region. Some lovers manage to heat the room up to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 ° C is considered a normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even in the case of a long, many-hour stay in this temperature range.

Fifth, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. The selection of harmful substances and the provocation of allergic reactions is excluded in principle. People go to the bathhouse for health, and not for new sores.

As a result, granular expanded clay should be recognized as the best option for insulation for the field. He is not afraid of either mechanical stress or moisture. On the walls and ceiling, it is better to put ordinary or foil mineral (basalt) cotton wool. It will withstand heat, and a layer of finish will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical stress.

Styrofoam, polystyrene foam, foil polyethylene for steam room warming are not suitable - they can not withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, we can begin to directly warm the steam room from the inside, after having studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate the floor - a layered overview

To do this, we will have to form a multilayer structure consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing in the direction from the ground. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a polyethylene film, which is laid on prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists in adding sand layer, with a thickness of 15 centimeters or more.

The second layer is thermal insulation. It is formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to the double thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must go to the level of the first crown of the log house.

Expanded clay is perfect for thermal insulation of the steam room floor

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20-cm cells is laid on expanded clay and the screed is poured using a sand-cement mortar with a filler. The optimum thickness of the screed is from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the floor perimeter, at the level of the future baseboard, it is necessary to fill a waterproofing skirt made of foil, which protects the logs from contact with concrete.

For the finish of a heat-resistant floor, tiles or boards laid on the crate are used.

We warm the ceiling - step by step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, a completely different heat insulator is required - foil mineral wool. It withstands heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and will easily transfer the usual temperature in this area of \u200b\u200bthe steam room, which does not rise above 160-180 ° C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer that protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is stuffing the lathing on the ceiling of the boards, the depth of which should equal the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The step of laying boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

Foiled mineral wool insulates the ceiling

The third step is laying the insulation. After the assembly of the lathing is completed, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, laid out foil (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully glued with foil tape. After completion of work, no gaps should remain on the ceiling.

The final step is installation on top of the crate of the finishing board (lining) or plywood panels. And in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options from pine and spruce and other tarry trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for the bath is made from hardwood deciduous trees.

How to insulate walls in the steam room - a process overview

Arrangement of vertical thermal insulation on the walls of the bath does not require the use of expensive foil mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor insulator and a screen from high temperature.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We impregnate the walls with an antiseptic - it will save the log house from rot and fungus.
• We fill on the walls of the board with a thickness of 3-4 centimeters and a width of 2-3 cm more than the depth of the insulation. The step of placing the boards should match the width of the minvata roll. In the end, all the boards are necessarily saturated with an antiseptic.
• We lay mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the crate, rolling it in horizontal stripes from bottom to top. At the same time, the upper strip should overlap with the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). And here, it is better to use staples as fasteners (from the stapler). Moreover, it is better to glue the joints with foil tape.
• We fill on boards planks 2 cm thick, previously impregnated with an antiseptic. So you will form a counter-lattice. And in the end, on top of these slats, we mount a leaf lining.

Such a scheme allows you to assemble a very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical stress by finishing with lining. Therefore, according to this scheme, almost all steam rooms are finished.

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step instructions video

Insulation of the steam room inside yourself

The bath helps us to rest not only with our bodies, but also with our souls.

Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also please with an attractive appearance.

A few general rules

The first step before the next treatment is the preparation of work surfaces.

It is necessary to inspect the base for whether there is fungus and mold on it.

Extraneous inclusions and protrusions should also be absent.

To get rid of the fungus, it is enough to use the usual antiseptic composition.

Without it, warming the steam room from the inside will remain ineffective.

It is important to pay attention to the safety of materials.

The main requirement in this case is the ability to withstand high temperatures. Materials must not absorb moisture, must have reliable protection against mold.

And stay durable. Aluminum and basalt foil are good, modern solutions. Technology itself plays no less role than materials.

How to make insulation

In the course of the work we will get a kind of “sandwich”. It usually consists of several layers.

• Waterproofing. Prevents the appearance of fungal and mold formations. And prevents the activation of rotting processes. This layer also protects the walls from condensation. It is formed when hot steam acts on the surface. Polyethylene film or foil are considered the best waterproofing materials. This is also required by warming the steam room from the inside in a wooden bath.
• Thermal insulation. Plain, clean paper is first laid on the base. The insulation layer goes only after that. The paper base makes it possible that even a minimal amount of harmful substances is not thrown into the air. Paper makes a minimum of hot air escape. After that, a wooden frame with the same width as the insulation material itself is attached from above. Synthetic slab or mineral wool often become excellent heaters.
• A vapor barrier is needed to protect the thermal insulation from the effects of steam. It also reflects thermal radiation. And creates a peculiar effect of a "thermos". This layer is made of foil, with a thickness of up to 65 microns. Installation is carried out to a wooden crate. Why use small nails or a stapler. The main thing is to carefully cover all edges and joints with foil. Then the steam does not exactly penetrate into the insulation.
• Inner lining. For which clapboard is lined with all surfaces. The frame is mounted on top of the insulating layer. The lining itself, which is made from different types of wood, is also laid on the frame itself. The most important characteristic in this case is the minimum density.

What materials to choose

The question is not only in choosing between materials of artificial and natural origin. There are several other factors to consider.

This applies to purpose and appearance, cost. Materials that solve this issue can be attributed to one of the following groups, depending on the properties.

• Wall blocks and slabs.
• Matte and lamellar, fibrous varieties.
• Fillings with different densities

Several groups are distinguished by chemical composition:

• Which have a plastic base. This includes polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam.
• Technoblocks and tech tips. This is a group of techno-heaters.
• Inorganic compounds include glass and mineral wool, basalt fiber.
• On the organics. These include arbolite and fibrolite, aquavata.

Each of the varieties has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, for insulation of paired inside, heaters made of plastic are not very suitable.

This is due to the fact that such a base does not resist the effects of open fire. But they can insulate other rooms included in the bath room.

In turn, organic bases benefit in environmental safety. Their cost always remains affordable. But, if you do not use special compounds for processing, the material remains flammable.

Inorganic varieties are considered more universal and practical. Due to this, mineral wool has become such a popular solution.

Internal insulation will be more effective with materials such as:

• Aluminum foil
• Polyethylene materials
• Pergamine base
• Ruberoid types

Vapor barrier with glassine and roofing material will not give the desired result. After all, these materials, when exposed to high temperatures, emit chemically active and harmful substances.

But glassine in general is often taken in order to insulate the baths. But best of all, he has proven himself in conjunction with materials such as lining, aluminum foil, mineral wool and blockhouse.

There are several schemes by which insulation is performed. But one of them was the most widespread. For example, when using a lining with fibrous insulation.

• It all starts with the fact that a frame is created on the working wall surface. We take the timber battens, horizontal and vertical, we fix them on the wall. The beam should be thicker than the insulation, but only 20-30 millimeters. This margin is needed to predict possible shifts.
• After that, the wall is sheathed using mineral wool.
• The vapor barrier layer is laid on the insulation. The main thing is to overlap materials. For places with joints, their closures, thin slats are used. A distance of about 3 centimeters should remain between the mineral wool and vapor barrier.
• Lining is stuffed on the surface of the vertical crate. The width of the latter is 40-50 mm. There is still a distance that will be a kind of gap for the ventilation system.

Such works have proven effective. But they require certain costs, both in time and in strength.

Currently, materials have appeared on the market that greatly simplify the entire process. Moreover, they combine the function of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

One such option is foil foam. This is a fire-resistant insulation; there are no problems with its installation. As you can see, warming the steam room inside the technology is not so complicated.

The scheme described above is well suited for installing buildings from timber. Panel and frame structures have their own requirements for this process. There are several lightweight materials that will become indispensable assistants when working with panel walls:

The treatment of the heat insulator with milk of lime acts as an additional requirement. In the future, it will be necessary to dry the base as it should. Thanks to which fire resistance is increased, decay will no longer threaten the material.

If the walls are operated in difficult conditions from the point of view of climate, then the walls can be covered with fiberboard, or their analogue with reed slabs. In warm regions, the use of gypsum, cement and chip compounds will be relevant.

Work procedure for ceilings

Ceilings are most affected by temperatures, which are often 160 degrees. The process of insulation itself and its features depend on what design the ceiling itself has.

The following will look like work in the presence of an attic or ceiling.

• Ceiling boards are coated with clay. Its layer should have a thickness of about 20 mm.
• Clay is needed in order to effectively retain moisture.
• Wood chips are poured into the cracks that form between the boards.
• Can be used for thermal insulation and other materials. The main thing is that their thickness is not less than 200 mm.

The insulation scheme for rooms where the attic is absent looks somewhat different. First, vapor barrier material is laid there. Sheathing and a warming layer go next, further - boards for the ceiling with a beam beam.

Depending on the materials used and the design features, the work order will always vary.

To places where insulation and pipes are joined together. Between them it is necessary to indent approximately 200 millimeters so as not to violate the fire safety requirements. For this, a special box is constructed from the rafters.

It is he who will become the part that separates one part of the structure from another.

The main thing when warming the bathhouse is to monitor the absence of places through which warm air could leave the room. It is still necessary by all means to prevent the formation of condensate.

About floor insulation

You can use two solutions to insulate the floor in the steam room.

Polystyrene has an important advantage in the form of a cellular structure. Due to this, moisture will never penetrate into the material. Thermal insulation properties remain high, even if the surface is experiencing severe mechanical stress.

Thermal insulation of the steam room

But such material is most often used in saunas that are built of brick.

It requires additional protection, because the brick itself easily conducts moisture inside.

Expanded polystyrene is a material that meets all safety requirements.

But the surface requires preliminary preparation before using such a material.

The main requirements are strength and evenness. Do not do without thorough drying.

The waterproofing layer is laid on top of the material prepared in advance. Then, from above, the polystyrene foam boards themselves are installed.

It is important to monitor the lack of places left without treatment. Gaps and crevices can cause the formation of so-called cold bridges, therefore they should also be absent.

Decorative coatings are also laid on top, but only after the base has completely dried. Ceramic tile is one of the best solutions to date.

But it is allowed to create a collapsible floor made of wood. It fits perfectly into the interior of the bath. And walking on such a surface is very nice. With a removable design, it is possible to dry the boards without any problems, which extends the overall life of the board.

About ventilation in the bath

It is impossible not to consider this issue, touching upon the topic of warming.

Particularly stringent requirements are placed on this part of the system in the bathhouse. Ventilation should not only provide airflow into the room. It is important that she does not let the cold in, but retains heat.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to create special supply and exhaust channels. Around the furnace, a little inlet is located a little above the floor level.

As for the exhaust channel, it should be on the opposite side, in the upper part of the room. Special valves provide air flow control. It is necessary to observe one more condition for the system to work normally - that the air inlet is half as much as the exhaust.

Work is regulated by gate valves. If you manage them correctly, you can achieve the necessary results. If you open only one valve, only pleasant aromas will remain in the room, the air will be fresh. Intensive forced ventilation is organized if you open two valves at once.

About floor waterproofing

The base and its materials determine which method of insulation is used in a particular case. Each method should be considered separately.

Concrete floor insulation

This is the simplest and most affordable waterproofing solution for those who have a steam room. It is suitable for washing, inside which the floor is completely poured with concrete. The procedure will be as follows.

• First, the floor surface is leveled until there are no deviations at all. Even the smallest dimples and tubercles are unacceptable.
• After that, they proceed to applying bitumen mastic. We must wait until it dries.
• A polyethylene film, roofing material are laid on top of this layer.
• The base of the floor is ready, you can proceed to the laying of ceramic tiles.

There is a second method. Its implementation is more complicated. But the result justifies all the costs, such waterproofing will pleasantly surprise you with high quality. You need to perform several actions.

• A plywood sheet is fixed to the surface of the subfloor.
• Hydrozole is laid on top of plywood. This is the material whose edges lead to the wall.
• All joints in the waterproofing layer are reinforced with aluminum tape.
• Places of seams and joints that remained unprocessed are sealed with an ordinary building hair dryer.
• Next is the laying of the reinforced mesh, the laying of concrete mortar.
• The last stage includes decorative cladding.

So that all the walls do not get dirty, the lining is closed with tape. You need to look at how old a log house is for a bath. Until the shrinkage is complete, the buildings usually cost at least two years. Otherwise, the floor surface will deform.

We isolate the wooden floor

This method of insulation is very similar to what we wrote about earlier. It features the most simple step-by-step instructions.

• A layer of mineral-cotton mat with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is fixed under the lags.
• The roofing material or euroroofing material is fixed on top of the first layer.
• Wooden structures require mandatory antiseptic treatment. This will eliminate the risk of rotting. And protect materials from spontaneous combustion, eating by insects.
• The rough floor should be laid already on top of the antiseptic layer. After that, everything is sheathed using a lining.
• Only the decorative cladding remains.

Mineral wool door insulation

Warming of the bath is a process that takes place somewhat differently than in other rooms.

The main difference is the high temperature and humidity, which are constantly stored here.

But to solve the problem is not difficult if you follow simple rules.

Seals should be laid on the wall as tightly as possible.

This will avoid cracks and cracks through which hot or cold air passes inward.

There will be less likelihood that excessive moisture and condensation will appear in the bath.

Drying of the insulation is provided only by ventilation gaps, therefore it is not recommended to forget about them.

Ceilings must withstand the highest temperature indicators, this is always worth remembering. The main thing is not to use materials that are too easy to deform for insulation in this part of the room.

Or those species that produce harmful chemicals when exposed to high temperatures. Condensate is collected on plastic without any problems.

Doors, thresholds in the room also affect the performance of thermal insulation. A large gap under the door can lead to a low heat capacity of the twin room. There is always a solution - just install low doors that have a large sill.

• Insulation of the steam room inside yourself

  
    The bath helps us to rest not only with our bodies, but also with our souls. Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also

The general concern of the population about their health has led to the fact that almost every owner of a country house seeks to acquire a bathhouse. The specifics of this useful structure are thermal procedures that require the creation of a steadily high temperature in the steam room. To provide a similar microclimate with the least energy expenditure, something like a thermos is arranged inside the building. Bath insulation can be carried out with different materials, which directly affects the implementation method.

Why insulation is needed

The bath has many useful properties, however, many of them may be inaccessible if the organization of internal insulation is incorrect. In such a situation, even competently implemented construction work will not save: if the walls of the building are not able to hold the heat generated by the stove, the comfort of taking bath procedures will noticeably drop. The only way out is to reduce the time between kindling, which, accordingly, will provoke an increase in financial costs for paying for energy.

A more correct solution is to insulate the room of the bath, since there are a number of effective technologies for this. This is best done during the construction of the building. However, if this important stage was missed for some reason, some methods of internal insulation allow the possibility of implementation at the end of construction. The main difference between the thermal insulation of the bath and a similar procedure in an ordinary house is that in the first case indoors, it is necessary to achieve the maximum possible retention of the high temperature created by the stove. This requires a better approach to the work.

Which material is better

In the old days, the warming of baths was carried out exclusively with natural materials. We are talking about felt, hemp hemp, flax, red moss, etc. The undoubted advantage of these heaters is their complete harmlessness to people. Even in conditions of a significant increase in temperature (which often happens in the steam room), they do not emit any harmful substances and toxins.

Natural materials have significant disadvantages:

The complexity of the installation process. Despite the simplicity of caulking a bath using moss or tow, it takes a lot of time and effort. As a result, you have to increase the payment to the masters.

Weak biological resistance. Natural materials are susceptible to decay and the formation of fungus: in conditions of constantly high humidity this is only exacerbated. Insects and rodents are often wound up in the thickness of the insulation, so regular inspection and re-laying of the insulating layer will be required.

More attractive performance characteristics have modern artificial insulation.

Although their degree of environmental friendliness is slightly lower, but the service lines are an order of magnitude larger. This is due to their absolute inertness with respect to constant moisture and high temperatures. If you add light weight, ease of installation and low cost, it becomes clear why synthetic materials are now almost replaced by natural analogues. Most often, polystyrene foam, basalt fiber, mineral wool and glass wool are used. Before you insulate the bath from the inside, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each of these materials.

Expanded polystyrene

It has excellent thermal insulation characteristics with low weight and low cost. Expanded polystyrene resists moisture well, however, in conditions of high temperature there is a real risk of deformation and even fire of plates. If we add here the emission during heating of toxic substances, it becomes clear why they try not to use this material in the baths (except for the external design of the dressing room).

Expanded polystyrene is the closest relative to polystyrene, but with improved characteristics

Basalt fiber

A great option for warming the bath. The raw materials for the manufacture of basalt fibers are molten rocks.

This explains the presence of the following characteristics in the material:

It does not burn at all.

It tolerates mechanical stress and high humidity.

It has the ability to absorb noise.

Provides excellent thermal insulation.

It can be used for several decades without loss of performance.

It is very simple to install a heater from basalt, because it can be cut into pieces of the right size. The only drawback of this material is its high cost.

Basalt fiber compresses well, and after laying takes up all the necessary volume

   On our site you can familiarize yourself with the most from construction companies represented at the exhibition "Low-Rise Country".

Mineral wool

It is produced under approximately the same conditions as basalt fiber. The difference between them relates to the raw materials used: in this case, it is not rock, but metallurgical waste that plays its role. Thus, it is possible to significantly reduce the cost of the finished material.

In addition to cheapness, mineral wool has other advantages:

Low thermal conductivity. Thanks to this, the heated room retains its heat for a long time.

Moisture resistance. The material can be used with stable high moisture.

High soundproof performance.

The disadvantages of mineral wool include its low resistance to mechanical stress. This introduces certain difficulties in the installation procedure.

Glass wool

The composition of the material includes interwoven the finest filaments of inorganic glass. As a result, numerous air layers and pockets are formed inside the glass wool, preventing heat from leaking through the thickness of the insulation. It should also highlight the good vapor permeability and low cost of the material. It is offered for sale in rolls of different thicknesses and widths, which facilitates the selection of the optimal level of insulation. In addition to rolls, glass wool is sold in the form of mats and plates.

What to choose

Analysis of the characteristics of materials for thermal insulation leads to the conclusion that the most optimal option than to insulate the bath from the inside is basalt fiber and mineral wool. To save money, the choice is mainly made in the direction of mineral wool. Moreover, the manufacturers managed to solve the problem of its fragility by using foiling.

   On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of construction and design of the bath. You can talk directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Warming procedure

It is necessary to work in conditions of high humidity. This means that moisture resistance of the insulating material alone is not enough in this case: in addition, a vapor barrier film must be used. Due to this, it is possible to avoid moisture condensation inside the insulation (condensate reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the material and contributes to the decay of the walls). In addition to the film, in the role of vapor barrier in baths, aluminum foil is often used, which enhances the effect of insulation, reflecting heat inside the room. To create a continuous protective surface, the joints of the sheets of foil are decorated with metallic tape.

Walls

The nuances of thermal insulation of the walls of the bath largely depend on the material of their manufacture. Concrete, stone and brick foundations in any case need to be insulated. In this case, the goal is not only to reduce heat loss, but also to protect the walls themselves from destructive moisture.

When selecting the thickness of the insulation, the following is taken into account:

The thickness of the walls is made of stone, concrete or brick.

Features of the local climate.

As a rule, experts recommend laying insulation with a thickness of at least 100 mm. As for the insulation from inside the bath from the beam, it is carried out only for walls thinner than 20 cm. For additional protection of more solid structures, a waterproofing film and lining are usually used.

The list of stages:

Arrangement of the lathing on the insulated surface. The wooden blocks used for this should be well dried and treated with antiseptic impregnation.

Making fiberglass gaps between the individual cross members of the frame.

Installation on the walls from the inside of the insulation for the bath. To do this, use basalt or mineral wool slabs cut to size.

Laying on top of the insulation of vapor barrier material.

Finishing To do this, in baths most often use a natural lining.

Ceiling

Equipping thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bathhouse in many ways resembles a similar procedure on the walls. At the same time, the washing department and the dressing room are not allowed to be equipped with foil vapor barrier, replacing it with inexpensive polyethylene or kraft paper.

The vapor barrier layer is separated from the finish lining by a ventilation gap of 10-20 mm, which significantly accelerates the drying of the lining at the end of water procedures. This nuance is of fundamental importance, because due to the microclimate of the bath, the ceiling finish experiences the extreme effects of heated moist air. The ventilation gap prevents rotting of wood, significantly extending its life.

Floor

A significant amount of heat loss in the bath occurs through the floor surface. This becomes especially noticeable during the onset of winter cold. Features of floor insulation are also directly dependent on the material of its manufacture.

The procedure for warming a wooden floor consists of the following operations:

Drain pipe gasket. It is best to equip the drain hole in the center of the room.

A ruberoid is laid on top of a rammed earthen base, with an approach to the walls (within 15-20 cm).

Expanded clay filling as thick as possible. At the same time, it is important that at least 20 cm is left for the upper bridges for ventilation.

Installation of floor beams pre-treated with antiseptics.

The bottom of the lag is equipped with cranial bars for laying the sub-floor boards.

Making a rough floor with a vapor-tight film. It is important to achieve protection for both beams and boards.

Laying insulation between the beams. Usually, mineral wool is used for this. A vapor barrier film is also spread on top.

Installation of logs under wooden flooring. They are stuffed at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the beams.

The construction of the frame under the waterproof finishing floor of the mounting rails. They are equipped with a specific cut towards the central drain (cut angle - 5-7 degrees). The gaps between the jumpers of the frame (and the jumpers themselves) are formed with foil mineral wool (the foil should look up).

Stuffing finish wood flooring.

Video Description

In this video you will learn how to insulate a bath or sauna. You will also learn how to properly insulate the bath with your own hands and not make mistakes when working:

Concrete floor insulation sequence:

Leveling and tamping of the earth foundation.

Pouring concrete screed.

Equipped with dried concrete waterproofing. For these purposes, you can use a dense plastic film or roofing felt.

Laying thermal insulation boards or strips. They are also waterproofed.

Pouring another concrete layer, with a mandatory slope towards the drain hole.

Tile is usually used as a concrete topcoat.

The floor surface of the bath is constantly wet, therefore, increased requirements are imposed on the installation of waterproofing. It is important to ensure that even minor damage to the upper screed can not provoke wetting of the insulation inside the “pie”.

Video Description

A few more words about the choice of insulation for a bath in the following video:

Conclusion

Its internal comfort and the amount of spent fuel to maintain the desired temperature directly depend on the high-quality insulation of the bath. The most suitable thermal insulation materials, taking into account the specifics of operation, are basalt and mineral wool with additional foiling.