How to connect light switches. Illuminated switches: brief description, principle of operation and connection diagrams

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Switches with an indicator (illuminated) are handy devices that allow you to quickly find the switch in a dark room. Illumination is carried out using a neon lamp installed in the switch housing.

With their appearance, the functionality of the switches has increased, but the problems have not decreased. After all, each mechanism has its own characteristics.

How is the switch set up?

The phase coming to this switch is connected to the L - incoming contact (Fig. 2), and from the outgoing contacts it goes to the lighting lamps. In this case, the moving contacts are closed to each other.

A backlight circuit is installed, which includes a resistor and a "neon" - a neon light bulb, and soldered to the contacts L1 and L. Thus, when the contacts L and L1 are open, the neon light is on, and when the light is turned on, these contacts are closed by a moving contact, which excludes from illumination circuit diagram.

What to pay attention to?

When choosing a switch with an indicator, it is necessary to operate with the power consumption of all lighting fixtures connected to the switch. On the inside of the switch, the marking and the rated current (maximum allowable) current are indicated. Basically, switches are produced for a current of 10 and 16 A and, accordingly, the maximum connection power for them is 2.2 and 3.5 kW.

It should also be noted that you should not use backlit switches to work with energy-saving (fluorescent) lamps. Because the energy-saving lamp flickers in the off state, and such a “behavior” of the lamp is unlikely to please anyone.

Currently, there are special types of lighting devices - a flickering candle lamp, which imitate the fluttering of a flame in the wind.

Why does the lamp flash when a backlit switch is installed?

Many users have problems with energy-saving lamps when installing a switch with an indicator, and the question arises as to why the energy-saving lamp is flashing. The fact is that when the switch is in the off state, the current, passing through the circuit of the signal neon or LED light bulb, charges the electronic ballast capacitor, which is located inside the lamp. This is a common reason why energy-saving lamps flicker - the voltage reaches the trip value and the lamp flashes, after which the capacitor is discharged and the process repeats again, as it is charged.

If the off lamp blinks, you can remove the backlight from the switch or put a resistor or other capacitor in parallel with the lamp.

Currently, some lighting manufacturers have taken into account the problem when the lamp flashes after turning off, and solved it by shunting the lamps or increasing the turn-on delay time - soft start.

Many users have problems with energy-saving lamps when installing a switch with an indicator, and the question arises as to why the energy-saving lamp is flashing.

This solution to the problem, when the LED lamp flashes, is optimal. Technologically, 1-2 seconds are allotted to set the power of these lamps, however, the set of full brightness can be attributed to the disadvantages of these lamps only after 1-1.5 minutes.

Another reason why the lamps flicker may be incorrect connection, when zero goes through the switch, and not phase. Thus, if the LED lamps flicker, you can reconnect the switch yourself or call a specialist for this. Also, if a fluorescent lamp flickers, it may not be affected by the quality of the lamp itself. In this case, you need to try turning off the indicator.

Thus, when purchasing a switch with an indicator, it is best to choose soft-on lamps, and when installing, carefully check the correct connection of the wires, in which case the problems when the energy-saving lamp flashes after turning off will not be terrible.

Today, more and more people are using energy-saving lamps instead of conventional ones. But, despite all the advantages, there are some difficulties in using them.

For example, many customers complain that LED light sources do not work correctly with backlit switches.

For LED lamps, this is a very convenient type of device; its circuit includes a neon indicator, thanks to which you can quickly find the switch in the dark. But, as a rule, such devices are only well combined with and have problems with many modern light sources.

Sample models of illuminated switches and LED lamps are shown in the photo:

Incompatibility is manifested in the fact that the lamp may flash from time to time, emit a weak flicker or glow dimly.

This applies to all LED sources: strips powered by separate units, lamps for reduced power supplies, and direct-on luminaires. Such flickering may depend on the power of the light bulb.. Sometimes these phenomena can be avoided, for example, when the power of the power supply is higher than 100 watts.

The reason for this incompatibility lies in the device. They operate from a constant voltage source, so each device includes a rectifier powered by AC voltage.

An approximate wiring diagram for a backlit switch for LED bulbs is shown in the photo:

To smooth out ripples, the rectifier contains a capacitor. When the light is off, a small current flows through the backlight indicator, but this current is enough to charge the rectifier capacitor. For this reason, the lamp will glow dimly or flicker even when turned off.

Is it worth connecting them together and how to do it right

This flickering creates a lot of problems.. First, it is unacceptable in bedrooms. Secondly, improper operation of the device affects the duration of its operation. This problem can be fixed, there are several ways to eliminate flicker:

When choosing a switch with an indicator, you need to be prepared for the fact that not all modern lighting tools work correctly with them. Nevertheless, the problem in their compatibility is eliminated in several simple ways, therefore, there is no reason to abandon the indicator in the switch or energy-saving lamps.

We bring to your attention a video instruction on how to properly connect an LED lamp with a backlit switch and get rid of the dim glow of the lamp when the switch is off:

On the shelves of the store you can see light switches. But not everyone wants to replace a conventional installed switch. And I don't want to look for it in the dark either.

Illuminated switches are connected in the same way as conventional ones. Any person who wants to stop searching for a switch at night will be able to modify it without even knowing elementary things in electrics. Read the article and you will understand that everything is simple. The switch can be supplemented with an LED according to the simplest schemes. The difference between the schemes is not only in the configuration, but also in the characteristics. For example, an LED switch circuit may not work due to the fact that an LED lamp is installed in the fixtures. Energy-saving lamps can flicker, glow dimly in dark light. Let's look at the pros and cons of each scheme.

Switch backlight circuit on LED and resistance

As a rule, to illuminate the switch, it is enough to install the LED according to the diagram below.

If the switch is "Off", the current flows through R1 (any type, from 100 to 150 kOhm), then through the VD2 LED (lit). VD2 is protected from voltage breakdown by diode VD1. For a good glow, R1 is suitable, the current of which is 3 mA. If the LED light is too weak, reduce the resistance. VD1, VD2 - any type and color of glow. To independently calculate the parameters of the resistor used, you should remember the law of current strength. LED lighting is used if a luminaire with an incandescent lamp is installed. If there is an energy-saving lamp, you can notice flickering, blinking in the dark. If the luminaire uses LEDs to illuminate the room, then such a circuit will not work due to the fact that the resistance in the luminaire is too high. And it is very difficult to create it in the switch. The scheme is simple, but it has a drawback - the consumption of 1 kWh per month. Here is the diagram.

The ends looking down are connected to the terminals. This scheme is on twists and it is suitable for those who do not have a soldering iron. But it is better to solder the places of twists and insulate them and the resistor.

Switch backlight circuit on LED and capacitor

To increase the efficiency of the glow, a capacitor can be included in the circuit, and the current of the resistor R1 can be reduced to 100 ohms.

The difference between this circuit and the previous one is that the capacitor serves as a replacement for the resistor R1. R1 (100 - 500 Ohm; 0.25 W), in turn, acts as a charge current limiter.

Of the shortcomings - large dimensions, of the pluses - low energy consumption, 0.05 W * h per month.

Lighting circuit of the switch on a neon light bulb

Such a scheme is devoid of the disadvantages that are present in the above schemes. A big plus is that it is suitable for both energy-saving and LED lamps, as well as incandescent lamps.

When the switch is open, the current flows through the gas discharge lamp HG1, which glows and the resistance R1 (any power, but not less than 0.25 W; 0.5-1 MΩ).

Discharge neon lamps are presented in a wide range, you can choose any. The photo shows a lamp and a resistor having a rating of 200 kOhm. It was removed from the switch of the extension cable of the Pilot computer. It is built into any switch without additional modification. Such lamps can be found in electric kettles, a device with an indication.

These lamps are everywhere. Are you surprised? All daylight lamps use a starter, this is a neon lamp built into a cylindrical body. How many starters are in the lamp, so is the number of lamps. To remove it from there, turn the cylinder counterclockwise. Also in the case there is a capacitor that suppresses interference. It is not needed for backlighting.

If the starter was removed from a broken lamp, check the lamp for operation. It is better to take neon from new type starters, as the glass darkens in old ones, which leads to a dim glow.

Attention! Before operating the switch, turn off the power supply. If you have a problem with the dimensions of the resistor, that is, it turned out to be large and does not fit, replace it with several small ones connected in parallel.

When resistors are connected in parallel, the power dissipated by one resistor will be equal to the power divided by the number of resistors. Their value will become smaller and will be equal to the value divided by the quantity. For example, we need a 1 W, 100 kΩ resistor.

Let's convert kiloOhms to Ohms, we get 1 kOhm is equal to 1000 Ohms. Therefore, this resistor can be replaced by two connected in series in the circuit, each with a power of 0.5 W and a nominal value of 50 kOhm.

If the connection is parallel, the calculation is carried out in the same way. The difference is that the nominal voltage of the resistor is equal to the value, which is multiplied by their number. For example, to replace a 100 kΩ resistor with three smaller ones, the resistance of each would be 300 kΩ. During installation, the capacitor or resistor should be connected to the phase wire. This is all because the currents that flow through the details of the circuit are not higher than a couple of milliamps. Therefore, there are no special requirements for the quality of existing contacts. If the box in which the circuit will be mounted is made of metal, you need to take care of the insulation of the wires.

During the installation of the switch, it will not work to harm something, because the lamp acts as a current limiter. The worst that can happen is the failure of the elements that you will install. For example, if you take a resistor with a nominal value of 100 ohms instead of 100 kOhms, or do not install it at all.

Step-by-step instructions for installing in a backlight switch

Nyonki can either have a base or be without it. In the second, the conclusions directly come out of the flask. Therefore, the type of installation is different.

Installing a neon bulb with flexible leads in a switch

Usually, the leads that stick out of the light bulb are not long enough to connect them with terminals to the switch, so you need to lengthen them with a piece of copper wiring. The wire used can have either one core or many. It is best to solder these wires to the terminals of the light bulb.

Before you start soldering, you need to strip the wires and tin these places with solder. Then connect the wires with an allowance of at least 5 mm and solder.

After soldering, do not forget to insulate the place by putting on an insulating tube or wrapping a couple of turns of insulating tape.

To make it convenient to carry out further installation, at the end of the wiring that was soldered, a ring is created using round-nose pliers, for which the switch output will be fixed.

As a rule, manufacturers make white switches. Against its background, the backlight is clearly visible at night and drilling an additional hole for the LED is not required.

Then, solder the resistor to the second terminal of the lamp. And already to it a piece of wire in the same way as the first one. We need it to connect the second output of the switch.

With the second conclusion, we perform a similar operation. We isolate the place of soldering with a tube or insulating tape, twist the ring and attach it to the second terminal of the switch.

The backlight is mounted, connected to the electrical wiring. The work is almost completed, you just need to make a key to turn on the backlight.

Installing a neon light bulb with a base in a switch

The use of a cartridge for illumination is superfluous. Since the life of the light bulb is much longer than the life of the switch. Therefore, instead of using a cartridge, we simply solder the base to the wires.

To do this, remove the insulation from the wires, tin them with a soldering iron and make small loops. After that, solder to the terminals on the lamp.

A wire departs from the central contact of the base, it is necessary to solder a resistor to it at a distance of 2-3 cm from the base. Conclusions are made of the desired length, loops are twisted at their end. We carry out the same operation with the second terminal of the resistor.

The threaded part of the base, as well as the resistor, must be insulated. This is done using insulation or heat shrink tubing.

Or I offer my own way of isolation.

Many are familiar with PVC tubing. It is often used in wire insulation. In order for a piece of tube (cambric) not to fall off, its inner diameter must be smaller than the wire itself. The problem arises that such a cambric is hard to find.

There is no tricky way. If you hold the cambric for about 15 minutes in acetone, it will soften and easily fit on a part that exceeds the inner diameter by 1.5 times. So I isolated the New Year's lamps on a garland.

After the acetone has completely evaporated, the cambric will take on its original form and will be firmly fixed on the wire, the lamp base. It will not be possible to remove it, except to apply acetone again for soaking. This method is similar to a heat shrink tube, with the difference that no heat is required.

After all the work done, the backlight is installed in the switch box and connected to the contacts.

Illuminated electrical switches

Illuminated switches can be seen on carriers, heaters, and electrical appliances. Often, such a backlight consists of a neon lamp and a resistor. Once I had a chance to carry out repair work on the Pilot extension cord. It had a cracked key that fell out and made it impossible to turn it on.

After the switch was disassembled, I was surprised. There was no current limiting resistor. Neon lamps are not connected to a current of 220 V without a resistor, which serves as a current limiter. Such a device will fail in the first moments of operation. In the photo you can see the key from the mounting side of the neon lamp and the front.

The resistance I measured between the lamp lead and the spring was 150 kΩ. This switch has an interesting design. The resistors, and there are two of them, are installed in the holes in the keys, pressed against the lamp terminals by a spring, which ensures good contact. These springs press the moving contacts in the circuit breaker. When the switch is turned on, voltage is supplied to the neon lamp.

Applying a Backlight Circuit for Indication

The backlight also serves to keep track of whether the switch is operational or not. If the backlight is on but the light does not turn on, the switch has failed. If the backlight does not work, the indicator lamp has burned out.

A variant of circuits is suitable for indicating any devices, electrical circuits. For example, when you connect a lamp to a fuse, you can find out when it burns out. If the appliance does not have an indication, it can be built in. Thus, it will be easy to monitor whether the device is working.

When choosing switches for residential lighting, we always face a dilemma: should we buy a regular light switch, or a backlit one? Any manufacturer, the same popular legrand, offers the same models, both with and without an indicator.

What is a light switch for? It may sound strange, but for the cleanliness of the walls. Every time, groping for the keys in the dark, we gradually greasy the walls around, and create scuffs on the coating. The difference in price is small, but connecting a backlit switch obviously provides some advantages. Why do many buyers prefer traditional models?

The fact is that there are common “horror stories” and myths about the negative aspects of backlighting.

"Horror stories" and myths about the light switch

To understand the so-called "problem", consider the different types of indication. It comes in neon and LED. There is no fundamental difference in power consumption, both circuits consume no more than 1 W of power. Neons come in two colors: orange (red) or green, depending on the gas in the flask. The LED can be of any color, even dynamically changing hue (RGB).

Now for the myths:

1. Additional electricity consumption. To some extent, this statement is true. The LED backlight circuit consumes about 1W of power. For a month, it accumulates 0.5–0.7 kilowatt / hour. That is, you will have to pay a couple of rubles for comfort (from each switch). Similar costs for a neon lamp. There, energy is spent mainly on a limiting resistor.
2. « We installed the backlight - now the switched off lamps are lit in the dark!" And it is true. Old-style lamps (incandescent and halogen) regularly go out when turned off. But no one uses them anymore. The problem concerns economical fluorescent discharge lamps (they periodically flash), and LED lamps with an inexpensive control circuit (low glow).

The first option is gradually becoming irrelevant.

Information about this is in the instructions for the lamp.

If the first myth (additional energy consumption) must be put up with: you just pay a small amount for convenience, then the second “problem” has several solutions. You will learn about this from our material.

Connection

To begin with, we will analyze the switch device with a backlight. The principle of operation is based on Ohm's laws. When lines with different resistances are connected in parallel, electric current flows along the path of least resistance.

Regardless of the indicator used (neon lamp or LED), the connection circuit has a high resistance. It is provided by a limiting resistor. The backlit switch circuit is shown in the illustration:

When contacts L and L1 are closed, the backlight is shunted and current flows through the switch contacts. The main lamp is on.

When the switch is opened, the luminaire serves as a normal conductor. A small current flows through it, sufficient for the backlight to work. If an incandescent lamp is used, the spiral does not glow at such a meager current. But with housekeepers and LED lamps, the same problem arises. The control circuit (the so-called driver) starts to start at a small current, which is provided by the backlight connection circuit.

As an example, consider the options for using backlight lamps in Legrand products.

The backlight mode in the illustration is indicated by the figure of the month, the installation of the switch with the indication of operation is indicated by the image of a light bulb.

A single-key switch with night illumination is connected according to the classical scheme: a light bulb on contacts L. To indicate operation, a working zero must be set to the backlight lamp.

The connection of a two-gang switch is carried out in the same way. A separate indicator light is provided for each working line. The circuit provides a separate indication of a double switch, each backlight works for its own line.

The three-gang switch works exactly the same way. There will only be three indicators. By the way, this is another argument for backlight opponents: a three-key switch in the display mode spends 3 times more energy than a double switch.

It can also work with backlight. Only the switching scheme will be different. The indicator is connected to those contacts that will be open when the key is in the "down" position. As a result, if you turn on the light with one of the "pass throughs", the backlight goes out on it.

When using the backlight as an indication of the operation of the lamp, the indicator is connected from the side of the lamp, and a separate working zero is started on it. Regardless of the position of the "passthroughs", when the lighting is turned on, the indicator will light up.

Legrand sells backlights separately. In fact, this is an ordinary LED with a quenching resistor and a reverse diode, packed in a heat-shrinkable cambric.

If you do not want to overpay for the logo on the price tag, you can make a spare indicator yourself. The scheme is simple: in order to prevent reverse current from flowing through the LED element (we have an alternating voltage in the network, the polarity changes at a frequency of 50 Hz), a reverse diode (type D226) is installed. And since the voltage drop across the LED is 2-3 volts (depending on color), a current-limiting resistor is installed in the circuit. Scheme and ratings of parts in the illustration:

Any switch can be equipped with such an indicator, the main thing is that the light breaks through the plastic.

In fact, these are ordinary load resistors. They do block out unwanted light while consuming as much energy as a low-power incandescent lamp. That is, your light is turned off, and the counter continues to wind.

To “make friends” with a backlit switch and LED (economical) lamps, you need a pass-through switch.

Yes, the switching circuit is more complicated (you will have to pull the neutral wire). But you have to pay for the convenience of use. Electricity consumption is minimal, power is not more than 1 watt.

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In the evening, returning home after work, first of all, you have to grope for the switch in a dark room. It's even worse when you have to get out of bed at night in complete darkness and wake up to fumble your hand along the wall to find the switch. Although this is unpleasant, many have already gotten used to it, instead of putting a backlit switch at home.

Varieties of switches

In the modern construction market, switches are presented in a sufficient assortment to choose exactly the type that will best suit the local lighting needs in the room. They differ both in appearance and in design features - photo backlit switches.

The main types of switches:

• keyboards;
• push-button;
• sensory;
• rotary;
• corded.

In a residential area, a backlit pass-through switch and all of the listed varieties can also be used, but the most common are:

1. Single-key switch with backlight - applicable for closing only one circuit, sold with a built-in diode for night lighting.

2. Two-gang switch with backlight - has 2 switches and is used for chandeliers and other multi-lamp fixtures. The network connection is designed so that one key can simultaneously turn on 1-2 or more bulbs, and when the second key is turned on, the rest of the chandelier lights up. Often, a two-gang switch is used to use a separate bathroom.

3. Three-key or four-key switches - capable of simultaneously closing 3-4 electrical circuits, so they are used to control lighting fixtures in several rooms from one place. For example, for convenience, one place in the house turns on - a staircase, a separate bathroom and an entrance hall. It is most expedient to provide such a switch with a backlight if it is absent.

4. Pull switch - used in sconces and portable lamps, backlighting is usually not used.

Rocker switches are the most popular, and they are in almost every apartment or house, in schools and kindergartens, in offices and other public places. Many modern models are sold with a backlight diode and a transparent shield so as not to stain the wall around the switch with your fingers. The least commonly used touch switch backlight.

Benefits of a backlit switch

1. The overall design and construction of illuminated switches is almost the same as conventional models, but a small LED gives a great advantage when used in a dark room.

2. The indicator light on the switch is quite economical because the small LED consumes too little power.

3. The diode works only when the switch is not working and automatically goes out when the device is used.

4. It can be said that the energy cost of self-service LED is so negligible that it practically does not affect electricity consumption.

5. An additional advantage - if the backlit switch is installed in the bedroom, then in case of a sudden awakening at night, this makes it possible to quickly orientate in the space when awake.

About the features of the operation of circuits for a backlit switch

Visually and structurally, most of the illuminated switches are almost the same as simpler ones; they are also connected to the main wiring in the same way.

As the main component of the backlight use:

• a small neon lamp;
• LED paired with a resistance element.

They must be powered in parallel with the main contacts of the circuit breaker. If it is in the non-working position, then the LED is powered through the filament inside the diode with low resistance.

To add a little comfort to your home lighting system, you need to spend no more than half an hour. You can limit yourself to replacing obsolete switches with new improved ones, that is, on diodes. The second option is to independently supply existing switches with a simple element for night lighting. If you know how to connect a backlit switch, then it is easy to do it yourself, even without the education of an electrician.

It is important to have a basic knowledge of electricity and closed circuits, as well as be able to read simple electrical circuits. Each scheme has its own characteristics, components and parameters. But if the illuminated switch is connected incorrectly, then:

• the diode may not glow;
• energy-saving lamps will flicker;
• the sensor glows faintly in the dark.

The advantages and disadvantages of different schemes should be analyzed in detail.

Illuminated pass switch

The contact mechanism of this type of switch is characterized by a moving contact, which is always engaged when the circuit is broken. By pressing the “on / off” button in such a switch, the movable contact is transferred from one contact to another, ensuring the operation of the second section of the circuit. That is why it is called so - a toggle or pass-through switch.

Illuminated feed-through switch - the connection scheme is fundamentally different in access, here one lamp (chandelier) can be controlled from two places. For example, turn on at the beginning of the stairs and turn off on the other side. The pass-through type of switch otherwise performs the functions of closing the circuit and actuates the lighting fixture from different directions.

The scheme of the switch illuminated by diodes is relevant on stairs in 2-storey rooms and more. This is convenient because you can illuminate the stairs both from the lower and from the upper floor. In this case, it is advisable to place the switch at a distance of approximately one place from the first step of the stairs, so as not to stumble in absolute darkness in search of the switch key. The same applies to corridors, which can be conveniently controlled from both ends.

The installation scheme is quite simple: at the beginning of a long corridor, the 1st switch is installed, at the other end - the 2nd pass-through switch with an LED. When the network closing elements are turned off, the lamp does not light up - there is no closed circuit for the current to flow. When the first switch is switched to the working position, there is a closed contact - the light will glow, and if the second one is turned on, it will go out. It is easiest to use ready-made models with a built-in diode when installing a backlit switch.

Scheme of the switch on the LED with resistance

Most illuminated switches are pre-installed with LEDs, which must be connected to the electrical circuit during installation. In the non-working position of the switch, current must flow through the resistance element, while the diode is protected by reverse voltage.

With a minimum current strength, within 3 mA, a noticeable glow of the switch in the dark is provided. If the brightness of the diode is not enough, it is important to reduce the resistance value. In this case, you need to have elementary knowledge of current physics, or you can refer to reference literature - tables for calculating current strength.

This lighting switch wiring diagram is applicable only for a chandelier with a traditional incandescent lamp. However, when using neon LBU lamps or economical lamps, problems are possible - either a weak flickering or spontaneous switching on and flashing of the lamps will be noticeable at night.

When the luminaire is designed for LED lamps, the interior lighting on the switch may not work. This is due to the resistance of the network, which in the LED light bulb is large enough in itself, and there will be a lack of current strength to ensure the operation of the sensor in a closed network.

Features of the installation diagram of the switch on the LED with a capacitor

For productivity, experts recommend putting another capacitor directly into the switch in the electrical circuit, reducing the value of the resistor. The fundamental difference of the circuit is the use of an element instead of a resistor to limit the current with a capacitor.

Instead of one simple diode, it is enough to put another LED, described above, while the circuit will remain unchanged, but both LEDs will glow with the same intensity. The advantage of this type of connection of a diode with a capacitor is efficiency. The disadvantage is the larger size and inefficient operation of the LED.

Illuminated switch mounting

For those who are interested in how to install a backlit switch, it is enough to use the diagrams and tips presented in the article. They can be put in place of conventional switches that require replacement, or they are obsolete. And those wiring that come from the backlight are connected to the switch contacts in parallel with the main power wires.

Attention: Before starting work on the installation of the switch, be sure to turn off the electricity supply to the network!

1. It is important to decide what kind of light bulb will regulate the new switch. Not all of them are equally well combined with the indicator - due to the large resistance, as discussed in the previous sections. The best option is to work with halogen and incandescent lamps, and paired with illuminated switches, they will work flawlessly. And with LED and fluorescent lamps, there may be problems with the ballast of the lighting device - the lamps will flicker.

2. For a glowing indicator, it is required to calculate the indicators of the current-limiting resistance in a closed network even before installing the switch with your own hands. You can use ready-made formulas or calculate the characteristics of a resistor based on a special calculator. To do this, it is not necessary to know physics - just enter the known parameters into the calculation and get an answer. In addition, this calculator is also useful in determining the resistor parameters of finished switches, for example, when the backlight fails.

3. Sometimes there is no marking on the resistor bulb, but there is a symbol for the characteristics in color. Then the denomination is determined according to the scheme or according to the table of the "online calculator".

Important to know: The guaranteed current strength to ensure the glow in LEDs is 2 mA, and for a neon lamp - 0.1 mA. The lower voltage threshold for the operation of LEDs is not lower than 1.5-2 volts, and for neon lamps - up to 40-80 V. The data is necessary for other calculations, for example, when the parameters of the luminous element of the finished switch are not known.

4. When a resistor with a high power resistance is required or is not enough for soldering, replace with several low power resistors connected in series. With such a connection of several resistors, their total power corresponds to the calculated power divided by their number. For example, a 1 V resistor with a nominal value of 100 kOhm is safely replaced by 2 resistors of 0.5 watts of 50 kOhm, connected in series.

5. When installing a resistor or capacitor circuit, you need to determine where the phase is to connect to this wire. The current passing through the circuit elements goes within a few mA, and the quality of the contacts is not decisive here. When mounting the backlight in a metal box, it is important to take care that there is no contact with the walls and conductive conductors.

Attention: It is difficult to fundamentally break anything in the network when installing the backlight, since the lamp here acts as a current limiter. The only thing that can happen if some omissions are allowed is the non-working state of the built-in diode. Problems arise when the LED is soldered without a resistor or they differ in value.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a neon light bulb without a base with short leads to the switch

Small neon bulbs that are suitable for mounting in a switch are available without a base or with a base. The difference is that short wires come out directly from the flask, then the method of their installation has its own characteristics.

Let's give a more complex example - installing a neon lamp without a base with short wires in a switch:

• for an LED, the length of the leading leads is very small, like for a small neon lamp, so they are not enough for a full supply to the switch terminals, for this they are increased with copper wires (1-core or stranded);
• build up the wiring by soldering, before that, clean the outputs from oxides and process with solder;
• attach a copper wire of the same diameter more than half a centimeter, having worked with solder;
• be sure to isolate the soldering (with a tube, flight);
• it is convenient to round the ends for fastening to the terminals with round-nose pliers, fastening to the switch output;
• solder a resistor and a piece of wire of the required length to the 2nd output to connect to the 2nd output of the switch;
• also insulate the soldering, form a ring and fasten it to the second terminal of the switch;
• The last step is pinning with a key.

Tip: On most switches, the keys are made of thin white or translucent plastic, and under them the light from the diode is clearly visible in the dark. The switch is visible at night when not in use, and it is not necessary to drill a hole opposite the neon resistor. As a last resort, make a small round cutout on the key with a drill and fill it with silicone. This should be done only on the removed key!