We make a long-burning stove with our own hands. Homemade long-burning wood-burning stoves Do-it-yourself long-burning stove bucket

When the budget allows, you can purchase a long-burning stove manufactured at the enterprise. This option has an elegant look and can last a very long time. In addition, the unit is absolutely safe to operate. However, not everyone can afford such a purchase. And then the question arises about making such a stove yourself. It is also called pyrolysis. The creation process is relatively complex and requires strict adherence to all the necessary technologies and algorithms. First you need to thoroughly study how this device functions. You must have experience with metalworking and other turning skills.

Main characteristics and advantages of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning stoves, created independently, can operate on the following types of solid fuel:

• firewood;
• coal;
• sawdust.

The cost of fuel cells is low. For this reason they have become very widespread. The long-burning wood-burning stove has gained great popularity among home owners. It is created at home, called “bubafoneya”.

What is a long burning stove?

There may be slight differences in the designs of long-burning stoves. But the principle of their operation is similar - this is the generation of thermal energy during pyrolysis (not using the open flame method), when the wood is exposed to an impressive temperature with a limited amount of oxygen. And the fuel smolders, forming hot gas. It contains:

Pros and cons of long-burning stoves

The use of long-burning stoves operating on solid fuel in the heating system of premises helps eliminate almost all the shortcomings inherent in standard designs using similar fuel:

1. Pyrolysis units are characterized by higher efficiency when compared with classical modifications.
2. Long-burning stoves do not need to be constantly loaded with wood or coal.
3. The operation of the pyrolysis system can be automated.

A small caveat needs to be made regarding this last benefit. When a homemade heat-generating apparatus is used, there is usually no need for automation, since even one load of fuel cells guarantees uninterrupted operation for 20 hours.

Design features of pyrolysis furnaces

Combustion in a pyrolysis furnace is characterized by low dynamics and high efficiency. It is provided by air supply using a regulator. When the fuel cells ignite thoroughly (approximately 20 minutes after loading), you need to close the air supply hole. This minimizes the passage of oxygen.

The main contribution to heat generation in a pyrolysis furnace is made by flue gases, which are located in a special sealed compartment

The fuel smolders and is almost completely converted to gas. And the flue gases are concentrated in the ignition compartment. When they burn out, a lot of heat is generated. If you try to implement this method of combustion in a conventional stove, directing its operation to smoldering mode, you can cause serious damage to your own safety. In the best case, the gases will rush into the chimney. At worst, they will end up indoors, bypassing doors with weak seals.

Making a long-burning stove with your own hands

Before starting installation and assembly work, it is necessary to correctly calculate the operating mode of the furnace and its design, and then prepare all the necessary materials and tools. We will consider the furnace manufacturing process step by step, starting with the creation of a detailed diagram of the heating unit.

Calculation of furnace parameters according to drawings

To make a preliminary assessment of the upcoming scope of work and the configuration of the main elements of the pyrolysis furnace, it is necessary to study the general diagram of its structure.

For reference, we present a table of the dependence of the main parameters of the furnace on the diameter of its base

Table: thickness of the workpiece and height of the duct ribs for different diameters of the furnace base

When the diameter of the cylinder does not fit the values ​​​​indicated in the table, the thickness is calculated by proportions, focusing on the standard of the metal sheet (its thickness).

The air channels must be made rounded and arranged in a spiral. This will ensure optimal movement of flue gases.

Required tools and materials

A very important stage of preparation is the selection of necessary materials and tools. The key component is a cast iron barrel with a capacity of 200 liters. You can also work with a steel barrel. The main thing is that it has no defects or rust. If there is no suitable barrel available, you can use:

• element of a very thick pipe;
• sheet steel;
• massive fire extinguisher;
• unused gas cylinder.

The main requirement is wall thickness. It determines the service life of the furnace.

Other materials:

1. Metal products for making legs. Fittings, elements of small-sized pipes or channels are suitable.
2. Steel 5 mm thick. You need two circles that have the same diameter as the barrel.
3. Ready-made or self-made door.
4. The pipe is 10 cm in diameter and 15 cm long longer than the barrel itself.
5. A pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of approximately 5 m. It is necessary for the chimney.

Tools:

1. Bulgarian. Instead, you can use autogen.
2. Ax and hammer.
3. Measuring instruments: level, plumb line, tape measure.

Selection of installation location

After installing the stove, they make a reflector, but plan this before measuring and welding. It helps to optimally direct heat flows so that the room is heated evenly. In addition, the reflector seriously increases the level of safety during the heating process.

The area intended for installation of the furnace must not violate any of the fire safety criteria, since the hot furnace body is a potential source of fire. And this is what it becomes when the user violates the operating rules of this unit by incorrectly calculating the amount of sawdust or firewood.

The oven should not be placed near walls or any flammable objects. Sufficient space should be maintained around it. For example, the distance to wooden walls cannot be less than 25 cm.

Even before the assembly process, it is necessary to select a workspace. All stages of production will take place there. The following criteria apply to the premises:

• availability of power supply;
• availability of the necessary space;
• powerful sound insulation;
• protection from precipitation;
• ability to store workpieces.

Soundproofing is needed in order not to cause discomfort to neighbors. After all, the work turns out to be quite noisy. You can do without this insulation when the work area is located far from residential buildings.

Step-by-step instructions for self-assembly of a long-burning stove

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Let’s assume that we use what is available in private garages or workshops. These are old gas cylinders. They are prepared for work as follows: the upper side of the structure is carefully cut off. The formed element will become the basis. For cutting, a grinder or autogen is used here.

   The top part of the gas cylinder is cut off and a window is made for loading firewood.

2. After cutting the top side, a side hole is made in the cylinder body. It is needed to load fuel into the furnace during its operation. Based on the parameters of the hole, you need to make a door and then put it in place. The door should close this hole very tightly.
3. Below the marked hole, another smaller one is made. Ash will be removed through this compartment. It also functions as a blower.
4. When the cylinder is ready, the next stage begins: preparation of the starting material. Here we take a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a metal sheet. A circle of slightly smaller diameter than the balloon is prepared from it. A hole is created in its center for the working pipe. The circle is put on it and welded.

   A pipe is welded onto a circle slightly smaller in diameter than the cylinder and a lid is obtained with which to cover the burning firewood

5. 2-3 channels are welded onto the lower side of the circle. Their role is to increase the mass of the lid.
6. Then the circle is lowered into the prepared (cut) gas cylinder. After this, holes for the pipe are created in the lid. After which the cover is placed in its position and welded.

Video: do-it-yourself bubafonya from a gas cylinder

Features of manufacturing a sheet metal stove

Let's consider working with a sheet metal base. In his work, the master must precisely:

1. Calculate the parameters of all structural components.
2. Mark sheet material.
3. Process all elements of the device.
4. Carry out welding operations.

Required conditions:

Modernization of the furnace, increasing efficiency

There are three main ways to increase the efficiency of a stove: one of them is related to the chimney, the second is related to the fuel, and the third is related to operating conditions.

Chimney design optimization

For the chimney, as already noted, a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm and a length of 5 m is used. If you install a smaller pipe, especially in diameter, then it will not cope with the resulting loads. And the furnace itself will operate with reduced efficiency. To adjust the draft, a valve is installed in the pipe. A door is created at the bottom of the chimney for easy cleaning.

Condensation forms and accumulates in any pipes. And in pipes during pyrolysis it turns out even more, since the gases, having parted with all their heat, have negative temperatures at the outlet. This trend becomes the reason for high-quality insulation of pipes. The sandwich technology copes with this task perfectly. Its essence: a second one is introduced into one pipe, and a thermal protection layer is made between them.

You can also make a sandwich pipe with your own hands by wrapping the chimney with insulating material and protecting the structure with an outer pipe

In areas where pipes pass through the roof, it is necessary to perform thermal insulation using a metal box filled with insulation. A deflector is placed on the head of the pipe. It prevents precipitation from entering the system and also protects against the effects of wind.

If the installation site for the stove is a fireplace, there is no need for a reflector. When the stove is located in a room, the surrounding masonry performs two functions:

1. Protective screen for walls and things.
2. Heat accumulator.

Since the body of the structure is metal, the oven quickly heats up and cools down. Cooling occurs immediately after the fuel burns out. Therefore, a brick screen created on three sides of the stove accumulates heat and releases it over time. You can use corrugated sheets or a smooth metal sheet as a reflector.

What fuel is better to use in long-burning stoves

The efficiency of the furnace also depends on the fuel used. It is best to use dry logs. But since the stove is homemade, you can save on fuel. The device can even work on waste made from natural materials.

• cones;
• wood chips;
• sawdust;
• nutshell;
• straw.

Coal gives a good combustion temperature. But its use is justified when the oven is made only of materials with a decent thickness. Otherwise, such a unit will quickly burn out. A table showing the specific heat transfer of various materials can serve as a guide.

Table: specific loading coefficient and specific heat transfer of various types of fuel

Operation of long-burning furnaces

At first glance, it may seem that to fire a pyrolysis furnace you just need to throw firewood into the combustion chamber. This is just a superficial impression. It is important to do the following:

1. Remove the cover, take out the pressure circle and pipe. Place fuel on the bottom of the stove. The filling limit is the opening of the chimney pipe. Fuel elements are stacked as closely as possible to each other. Light small branches are thrown over them. And they are covered with a rag soaked in kerosene. You can also place paper.
2. Then the pressure circle must be returned to its place, and the lid must be closed. When the unit flares up, you need to close the damper that conducts the air flow. And she will remain in this position for a long time.

When creating a chimney, be sure to provide convenient ways to clean it. It is best if the structure can be quickly disassembled. When a composite chimney pipe is made, its parts are connected so that the joints are located in the opposite direction compared to the moving gases.

Cleaning and repair of long-burning stoves

If the stove is used incorrectly, its performance may deteriorate and efficiency may decrease. Therefore, periodically check the device for cracks and other defects. It is especially important to study the areas around the perimeter of the combustion chamber door and stove. If serious cracks are found, the defective parts must be replaced. Small gaps can be filled with sealant.

All burnt and cracked parts of the stove must be replaced in a timely manner.

Video: long-burning stove - cleaning and checking

If you have a small house, a garage, or just need to efficiently heat a utility room, a long-burning stove is the best option. Having some experience working with metal and welding skills, such a device can be built in 1–2 days. If the result is successful, you will be able to save money and gain satisfaction from the process of making a useful thing with your own hands.

With the onset of cold autumn days, it becomes necessary to heat the garage while repairing a car or to keep warm while harvesting potatoes on your site. A long-burning wood stove can be an excellent replacement for expensive stoves and will fit perfectly into small auxiliary rooms where it does not make sense to constantly maintain heat.

In ordinary potbelly stoves, which have long been known to everyone, wood burns quickly, and you need a lot of it to heat the room. In order to make a long-burning stove from a potbelly stove, it was necessary to equip it with an additional device for long-burning fuel. Craftsmen found a way out of this situation, and different versions of such units appeared: Slobozhanka, pyrolysis, bubafonya and others. They are very economical; they can be heated with wood, sawdust, wood chips and other flammable waste from firewood. They can burn, or rather smolder, all day long, and their efficiency exceeds 90%. They do not need constant supervision.

These stoves are convenient to install in greenhouses, garages, cottages and small wooden houses. The disadvantage will be the special organization of the chimney, in which it is impossible to make several outlets. As soon as the wood burns, the potbelly stove cools down, but during combustion it becomes very hot. You can make a potbelly stove from anything, and its design is quite simple. You can cut it out of metal, and then it turns out to be rectangular in shape.

You can make a long-burning potbelly stove from an ordinary steel barrel or a used gas cylinder. The principle of operation is the same everywhere - smoldering. A special feature of such heating devices are two chambers, which are divided into two parts: for fuel and for further combustion of coal and gases. The furnace design includes a piston that:

• supplies air to the firebox;
• exerts uniform strong pressure on the firewood, they smolder and fall evenly down.

The wood in the firebox burns very slowly. At the same time, the gas that is formed during combustion burns in the adjacent chamber. In this slow-action mode, the oven does not heat up much, so the walls should be thin. When heating a large room, the design is chosen to be more powerful, and then more firewood is required, and accordingly, the heat transfer will be higher.

As the wood burns, the chamber itself decreases, on which the damper that regulates the air circulation presses from above.

In a residential area, such a device is not entirely convenient and profitable. To load fuel or clean soot, you must first remove the dirty piston. And to remove soot, you need to remove the chimney elbow and turn the stove body over.

How to make a wood stove. Potbelly stove efficiency 200%

Preparatory work

Suitable for every garage owner make a homemade stove. You can build a long-burning potbelly stove with your own hands within a few hours from a used barrel. It must be durable, with a smooth surface. If dents or bulges remain in any place, the air duct will not fit tightly to the fuel and will hang over it. The walls of the container must be freed from residual gasoline, paint, glue, etc. using a gas torch or blowtorch, and then cleaned with a wire brush. Then you need to make the piston and blades.

The grinder will not cope in this case, since the metal is quite thick, and it is better to contact a service center or factory. At home, all that remains is to clean the cutting areas, remove drops and build-ups. The next stage of preparation is choosing a location for installation. Here you need to follow some mandatory rules.

Firstly, the floor must be level, and secondly, the stove must stand on a protected surface: you can use metal sheets or asbestos fiber boards. The potbelly stove is installed away from flammable materials.

The heating device must not be installed under hanging furniture. It is also taken into account how the chimney will be arranged. To prevent heat from escaping into the pipe, when its vertical part passes on the street, its other part is laid horizontally. If it goes around the room, then the potbelly stove can be installed using any method. You also need to decide how the required amount of air will flow to the thermal chamber. You can't do without good ventilation here.

Original long-burning potbelly stove

The first step is to create a firebox: The top round part of the barrel is carefully cut off. After this, the edges of the barrel and the cut part are processed with a hammer or sledgehammer. In this case, the uneven edges of the barrel are rounded inward, and those of the circle are rounded outward. This procedure is necessary to create greater tightness when closing the lid. Next, a round metal disk with the same diameter as the barrel itself is welded onto the body of the future furnace.

This surface can be used to prepare food or boil tea. In place of the plug, which is located on top of the barrel, a sliding damper is installed that regulates the supply of secondary air, which enters the afterburning zone. A hole is cut in the middle of the lid for the air duct, which is welded in a circle with metal. The piston is made from a steel sheet or from the bottom of another barrel.

Long-burning potbelly stove.

Additional metal parts are welded onto the upper plane of the piston so that the force of its pressure corresponds to the calculations of air flow into the firebox. A hole is made in the center of the pressure circle, the diameter of which must coincide with the outer diameter of the air duct, and they are firmly welded to each other. Then, blades up to 40 mm high must be attached to the bottom of the piston, which are used to distribute oxygen evenly throughout the firebox.

They are smooth and round. You can use both, but with rounded ones, the smoke flow flows as if in a spiral, and its path slows down. Ultimately, the heat output of the furnace increases. A divider is attached to the center of the piston on the pipe side. A damper with a lock is installed on top of the pipe to regulate the flow of the primary portion of air. A pipe is mounted into the upper opening, which is cut on the body, by welding with a continuous seam. A support frame with legs is constructed from various scrap metals.

An important part when creating a potbelly stove is a chimney with pipes, the diameter of which should be slightly more than 10 cm. You also need to prepare three elbows and a plug and connect everything sequentially to each other:

Manual

In pyrolysis ovens Only dry firewood is used. The fact is that when raw wood is burned, a large amount of water vapor is released, and it greatly reduces the heating temperature of the fuel. In addition, complete combustion of volatile substances does not occur, and when cooling in the chimney, they remain on its walls, which are very difficult to remove during cleaning. When raw wood is burned, many harmful chemicals are released that affect the environment and human health.

With well-dried fuel, the waste consists mainly of carbon dioxide and water vapor, and small, subtle air movement can be seen outside. Before filling the stove with wood, the piston is removed. The operating time of a potbelly stove and its heat output depend on the density of the fuel. Even small gaps between the logs are filled with chips, shavings, sawdust, etc. A rag soaked in kerosene is placed on top of everything, and, having replaced the piston, the heating device is tightly closed with a lid. Only after this they throw a burning match there.

It is not recommended to put various household waste, except paper, into the stove. All plastic products and shampoo bottles, foam inserts, and plastic bags, when burned, will release many dangerous elements that cannot decompose even during pyrolysis. In addition, they will emit a high percentage of soot, which will clog the chimney ahead of schedule.

A bright flame in the furnace appears due to the combustion of pyrolysis gases. They contain organic compounds, soot, hydrogen and carbon monoxide. In conventional designs, gases do not burn out completely, since there is not enough oxygen for this. In home-made long-burning furnaces, separate chambers with constant air admission are installed for post-burning pyrolysis.

You can make a long-burning stove yourself

Advantages and disadvantages

Homemade long-burning wood-burning stoves have their advantages and disadvantages, like any other device.

Among the advantages are:

• high efficiency;
• economical fuel consumption;
• possibility of burning firewood, sawdust, wood briquettes, waste from wood processing companies;
• small dimensions;
• simple design that allows you to quickly make a stove at home;
• simple air supply control using a damper.

The disadvantages apply to both factory units and home-made devices. Among them are the need for the first firebox in normal mode and the complex design of the chimney. During operation of the stove, condensation is released, it settles on the inner surface of the chimney, and a layer of soot is placed on top. Therefore, the chimney must be made without corners or bends.

Before prolonged burning, the unit must be melted as usual. This will warm up the inside of the stove and the chimney. After the firebox, ash is removed from the ash pit and the device is set up to operate for 10-12 hours without additional wood fuel.

In this video you will learn how to make a long-burning wood-burning stove:

Design and Application

The main feature of the long-burning furnace design is two chambers. In one, wood is ignited, in the second, gases are burned. In some models, the firebox is located in the upper part of the body, and the second chamber is located under it or through a partition. Combustion starts from the top layers of fuel, then the wood goes down. With the help of fans, new air flows are supplied.

Another option is to place one camera at the bottom and the second at the top. Pyrolysis gases rise into the upper opening without additional draft. The firebox volume of such stoves is smaller, but there is no need to install a fan.

Homemade wood-burning stoves are used most often for heating large greenhouses, garages, workshops or utility rooms. If you make the structure airtight and properly equip the chimney , then you can place the unit in a residential building. In this case, you need to equip the device with a water circuit, which is connected to the radiators of the heating system.

How to make a homemade long-burning boiler:

Materials and tools

To make a homemade wood-burning stove, you need to choose high-quality materials and tools. You need to prepare:

• steel sheets, metal drum or empty propane tank;
• metal pipes for the pipe and chimney;
• Sander;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• grate of grates;
• drill with metal drills;
• ash pan;
• handles, doors and hinges.

When carrying out work, you need to protect your eyes with special glasses and wear a welding suit. It is better to cover all seams with sealant or alabaster cord.

The finished top combustion stove must be checked using sawdust. This fuel allows you to slowly warm up the unit body and check the correctness of all connections.

How to make a long-burning potbelly stove:

Barrel stove

Stove makers can make a small stove from old metal barrels of various sizes. The top of a larger container is cut off with a grinder, a thin strip is made from a steel sheet and attached to the lid, making it airtight. The handle is also welded. In the lower part you need to make an opening for the ash pan and insert a suitable metal box into it.

In a smaller barrel, you need to make a round hole in the bottom. The small body is placed in a large container on a triangular stand so that the opening is located above the ash pan. A hole for the pipe is cut in the side of the outer barrel. A short part is cut off from the pipe and welded to the body. Other sections of the chimney must be attached to this part at such an angle that it can be taken outside the room.

You need to install a wooden log in the firebox, covering the hole in the lower part with it. Then sawdust is poured into the container and compacted. The fuel is poured with a small amount of incendiary fluid and set on fire. The structure is covered with a lid, and during the combustion process the gas is released into a large barrel, where it burns out a second time. The finished oven is installed on a car rim.

Craftsmen from the stove-makers' club make different models of long-burning stoves. They are used as stationary or mobile units.

Simple materials are used for the work, which allows you to save money, because the purchased structure is quite expensive. The entire manufacturing process takes little time.

More details about the 12-hour long burning boiler:

Maximum heating efficiency with minimal fuel consumption can be achieved by using equipment with high efficiency rates. An example is a homemade long-burning stove that does not require constant loading of firewood. It is enough to fill the firebox with logs once so that they burn for the next 12–15, or even 20 hours. This is very convenient for heating greenhouses and small country houses. Moreover, even a novice craftsman familiar with basic welding skills can make such a design.

Types of long-burning stoves

For suburban buildings, the problem with heat sources is very acute, and without heating in winter it is almost impossible to survive. Far from cities, there is no centralized heating, main gas pipelines to garden plots and small villages are not installed, there are interruptions in electricity, and not everyone can afford solid fuel boilers.

Traditional wood-burning stoves have a significant drawback. The fuel in their firebox burns too quickly, so they need to constantly add logs. The stove cools down overnight and the house becomes cool in the morning.

In long-burning stoves operating on solid fuel, heat is released for quite a long time after filling the firebox due to its smoldering rather than combustion. Such furnaces can operate:

The most common designs include:

Each of the furnaces has its own characteristics, but they all:

• heat the room for a long time;
• easy to care for;
• economical in terms of fuel consumption;
• relatively safe;
• warm up quickly;
• quite durable.

In retail chains and online stores you can easily choose a ready-made long-burning stove of different sizes and power. They look aesthetically pleasing, but are expensive. A self-made structure will cost much less, and the materials for it can almost always be found in a barn or in a local area.

Operating principle of a long-burning furnace

A distinctive feature of the long-term combustion process is that solid fuel burns not from bottom to top, but rather from top to bottom. As the upper layers burn through, the flame falls lower, affecting layer after layer. To understand why the wood burns longer in this case, you should turn to the physical component of the process.

A simple example is a match or splinter. If you turn them with the burning end down or to the side, they will burn very quickly. But if the flame is directed upward, the combustion process will be much longer. In this case, the match will release much more thermal energy.

Long-term combustion in stoves is ensured by the smoldering of wood at high temperatures, and the intensity of heat release is regulated by the supply of air through vents or blowers.

The high efficiency of stoves based on long-term combustion is obtained through the process of pyrolysis, or thermochemical decomposition of solid fuel components. In this case, the logs burn completely, and the heat escapes through the chimney in small volumes.

Such stoves appeared during the times of war communism in Russia, when even firewood was in short supply and boiler houses did not work. These devices saved the population from the cold during World War II.

The design of the potbelly stove is ingenious and is an improved version of Russian stoves. Its design consists of a metal body with two doors and a chimney pipe. Firewood is thrown into the upper hole, and with the help of the lower door the air supply and, accordingly, the process of combustion and smoldering are regulated.

Note! The potbelly stove is omnivorous, so you can burn everything you have at hand in it - coal, firewood and even old furniture.

Thanks to the pyrolysis process, combustion occurs slowly, and more heat enters the room. A traditional stone stove consumes a huge amount of solid fuel, which cannot be said about a potbelly stove, which consumes it sparingly.

The genius of the potbelly stove lies in the absence of a grate inside the metal body. Air through the bottom door is directed directly into the fuel mass. If the vent is covered, the combustion subsides; if it is open, it intensifies.

Efficient operation of a potbelly stove is possible when the firebox is only filled to a quarter of its volume with wood. Therefore, it should not be filled to capacity, otherwise the pyrolysis process will be disrupted.

Long burning stove fireplace

Potbelly stove fireplace Expo

The fireplace attracts the appearance of an open fire, and many owners of country houses dream of having it in their living room. But some people think about the benefits of such a stove. The design of a classic English fireplace is based on the principle of long burning and allows the fire in the firebox to glow for a long time. But efficiency not exceeding 50% and low heat transfer are its significant disadvantages.

Important! Inside the firebox of an English fireplace there is a smoke tooth, which affects the internal circulation of air masses and flue gases.

It does not allow the incoming air to escape upward, directing it to the log laying area.

Another option for a long-burning stove fireplace is the so-called Dutch oven. Before kindling, the ash pan is closed, and the firebox is loaded with firewood only a quarter of the way, without closing the door when burning. Most of the heated air will still fly out through the chimney into the street, but the effect of prolonged contemplation of the fire during the evening will remain indelible.

As a stove, the bubafonya is not ideal, but using the principles of its design, craftsmen have learned to create more advanced units that allow the fuel to burn out more slowly.

At the heart of the bubafoni there is a steel cylinder with incoming and outgoing pipes, as well as a “pancake” located inside in the form of an oppression with blades and an incoming air duct welded to it. As the fuel burns, the load gradually falls down under its own weight. The blades have a curved shape, thanks to which the gases scroll several times over the pancake until they burn out as much as possible.

The chimney for bubafoni is made to have an irregular cross-section so that the air that has not reacted with the fuel is not drawn out.

The fuel combustion process begins from the top layer, where air enters through the inlet pipe. The combustion zone then moves lower.

The disadvantage of bubafoni is its inability to work on coal and pellets, as well as its low efficiency. It will not be possible to add further portions of logs to it until the previous ones have completely decayed. And the top cover of the stove is not suitable for cooking, like that of a potbelly stove.

Slobozhanka

The stove was named after the historical area where it was “born.” It is a full-fledged heating device with a hob.

According to the principle of operation, the Slobozhanka is similar to the Bubafone, but the air flow here is from the side. Next, it is pulled into the perforated casing located inside the housing and rises up. In this case, the fuel takes in as much air as is required for smoldering, and the excess moves on.

The air in the slobozhanka enters all the fuel layers, so the pyrolysis process occurs more actively, and the furnace operates more efficiently.

Conclusion

All the designs of long-burning furnaces described above can be made independently. To do this, you need to stock up on drawings and necessary materials. Homemade stoves will cost less than purchased ones, although they will be less attractive in appearance.

Homemade long-burning stoves: choosing the best

Making a homemade long-burning wood stove

Manufacturers and craftsmen have always been attracted to models capable of producing maximum heat with minimal fuel consumption. Numerous attempts to create such equipment led to the appearance of a long-burning furnace. A homemade stove is used for heating small apartments and small storage facilities - warehouses, greenhouses and utility rooms. The second advantage of this stove is its simple design, which can be assembled with your own hands.

Advantages of the model

Why is wood-burning equipment so popular?

What does a long-burning wood stove consist of?

Original long-burning potbelly stove

The answer lies in its strengths:

• The device continues to function even after the fuel burns out (some models can work from 10 to 24 hours);
• The long-burning stove is a self-contained design;
• Small dimensions;
• Versatility in the choice of fuel - consumes coal, sawdust, wood chips, etc.;
• A homemade structure does not require a foundation;
• Does not require regular use. That is, the period of inactivity does not affect its performance in any way;
• Quite high efficiency - 85-90%;
• Over a long period of operation, the stove produces virtually no smoke;
• It can even be constructed from an ordinary metal barrel.

The unconditional advantages of this design also include its low cost on the heating equipment market. Constructing a device with your own hands does not require large expenditures on material or key elements.

The stove in question, however, is not without its drawbacks. A long-burning stove cannot cope with heating large rooms, since it is not designed to connect a water system with your own hands.

List of required materials

The first step is to decide on the type of room for which you will make the equipment yourself. Be sure to ensure that your workspace has access to electrical outlets, plenty of free space, and a canopy that reliably protects you from the weather.

Long burning sawdust metal stove - drawing

The list of necessary materials for making a structure with your own hands includes the following elements: sheet steel, sections of thick-walled metal pipe, an old gas cylinder and a large fire extinguisher.

The main component is a large 200 liter barrel made of cast iron or steel. Before choosing a barrel for a long-burning stove, carefully inspect its surface - there should be no visible damage or rust on it. The thicker the walls of the barrel, the longer the homemade structure will last.

• Materials for legs (small pipes, fittings or channels);
• 2 steel circles with a cross section of 5 mm;
• Channel;
• Door made of cast iron or stainless steel;
• A pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is slightly longer than the barrel (by 15-20 cm);
• Pipe with a diameter of 150 mm (for the chimney);

Heating equipment assembly

Step-by-step instruction

The main element for the stove should not have a top. In the case of a balloon, you need to cut off its top.

In the case of a gas cylinder, before cutting off the top, it is necessary to carry out the procedure for evaporating the remaining gas:

• Unscrew the valve and fill the bottle with water to the brim. Only after this can you begin to cut off the surface;
• A metal base is welded to the bottom of the future long-burning stove with your own hands, preferably square in shape, since it is more stable and reliable; in addition, legs are easier to attach to such a structure;
• Making a pressure circle. A circle slightly smaller than the diameter of the barrel is cut out of a piece of steel. A small hole of 10-15 cm is made right in the center of the cut out structure for the chimney. We insert the pipe into the barrel and check how much it comes out of the stove. Remember, a wood-fired structure needs a chimney that extends at least 15-20 cm above the heating equipment;

Elements of a homemade long-burning stove

• In another part of the barrel, a cross-shaped channel is welded - this part is responsible for supplying fuel;
• The furnace lid is either made by hand from new materials, or a previously cut top is used for it. It is necessary to cut a small hole in the lid for the pressure circle pipe.
• Don't rush to cut the hole for the pipe. First, coordinate its dimensions with the dimensions of the barrel (the circle should smoothly descend into the structure with barely noticeable contact with the walls);
• A small hole is cut out from the bottom of the barrel for the ash pan. Remember to consider the size and shape of the ash pan doors when cutting the hole at the bottom of the barrel. Practice has shown that for a long-burning stove it is better to provide a rectangular ash pan;
• At this stage, all components are welded;
• All that remains is to cut a hole in the upper part of the body for a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm. The chimney pipe is also welded to the structure and reliably sealed.

It is worth noting that it is advisable to seal all joints by welding, since fire-resistant sealants will not withstand very high temperatures for a long time.

Several technical features

The stove should not be located close to walls or flammable interior items - armchairs, sofas, beds, linoleum, etc. Make sure that there is always free space around the long-burning stove, surrounded by fire-resistant materials.

Long burning stove location

Remember, a structure that runs on wood is prone to severe overheating, so once again make sure that no flammable objects are near the equipment during its operation.

Practice has shown that it is better to make chimneys dismountable, since sooner or later the time comes to clean the structure. It is easier to clean a long-burning stove with a removable chimney. It is better to design a homemade chimney as follows: the joints should be located in the opposite direction to the moving gases.

How to use the constructed structure correctly?

A long-burning stove has several nuances of its use:

• First, remove the cover and remove the clamping device;
• Fuel is loaded at the very bottom. It is worth noting that the amount of loaded fuel should not exceed the level of the chimney;
• The main requirement is that the firewood must be compressed, that is, stacked as tightly as possible. This way you will achieve a slight increase in efficiency - by 5%;
• Kindling materials are placed on top of the firewood: small branches or paper. It is better to pour the top layer of firewood with kerosene or oil;
• Light the wood and close the structure with a pressure circle;
• When the fuel burns well, do not forget to close the air supply damper.

Conclusion

Long-burning stoves are the most promising type of heating equipment at the current stage of development, despite the fact that its technology was patented back in 1920. The heating system is characterized by high efficiency, excellent performance and complete autonomy.

Homemade long-burning wood-burning stove

How to make long-burning stoves with your own hands

Owners of greenhouses, garden plots, garages and other buildings that need heating will be interested to know whether it is possible to make a long-burning wood stove with their own hands. In other words, a stove that can be loaded with wood once and then not touched for a couple of days.

Long-burning boiler design diagram.

Yes, such a long-burning stove can be built as a homemade stove - if you have the most basic construction skills.

Homemade long-burning wood stoves: diagram and principle of operation

If the air supply is free and the draft is strong, dry firewood will burn very quickly.

If, with a full load of firewood, the combustion is transformed into smoldering by controlling the air supply, the heat release will drag on for hours or even days.

Here is the design of a simple but quite effective wood-burning stove, oriented towards long-term combustion, which repeats the design of the Stropuva boiler. This stove is popularly called “bubafonya” (after the name of the person who first posted the stove diagram on the Internet).

Diagram of a homemade long-burning stove.

Making such a stove is no more difficult than a potbelly stove, which is more familiar to the general public.

However, the combustion principle and design of such a furnace are completely non-standard. Combustion does not proceed from the bottom up, as in ordinary stoves, but, starting from the upper layers, goes down while the wood burns out.

The firewood under the pancake in the firebox is lit from above, thanks to the air supply pipe. When burning, gases seep through the edges of the pancake and exit into the chimney. The pancake goes down as the wood burns. It is possible to control the air supply using a damper at the ends of the air supply pipe.

Materials for long burning wood stove:

• 200-liter iron barrel with a sealed bottom (for fuels and lubricants);
• a circle (pancake) cut from metal with a slightly smaller diameter compared to the barrel (the circumference of the pancake is slightly less than the circumference of the barrel);
• 4 corners or channels 50-60 mm high and less than the radius of the pancake;
• a 100 mm metal pipe (blower) with a length 5 cm greater than the height of the barrel;
• 150 mm metal pipe (for the chimney), preferably 5 m long.

Homemade “bubafonya” with long burning

Using a grinder, cut off the weld seam from the top end of the barrel and smooth out the sharp edges. The result is a cylinder and a lid with a finished flange. Using a hammer or sledgehammer, bend the edges of the cylinder inward. And bend the flange of the lid outward. Turn the cap over and place it on the cylinder. The lid will sit securely in place without slipping.

Using a chisel, cut a hole for the blower pipe in the center of the lid (so that it fits freely into the hole, it is enough to use a diameter of 102 mm).

Bubafoni assembly diagram.

The hole for the plug on the lid can be sealed tightly, but it is better to leave it: by looking inside you can regulate the combustion process.

Then, at the top of the barrel, a place is marked for attaching a piece of the chimney pipe.

The intended hole is cut out and a piece of chimney pipe 20-25 cm long and 150 mm in diameter is welded. You can install a shut-off valve directly inside the pipe. The stove body is ready.

Next in line is the air supply device. For greater rigidity, the edges of the pancake are bent (so that the pancake does not curl from the heat). A hole is cut in the center of the pancake for the blower pipe, and it is welded. If a lid from another barrel is used for the pancake, then the hole for the cork is sealed tightly: during combustion, gases will pass only around the circumference of the pancake. Channels or corners are welded to the pancake from the bottom side. The air supply device is also ready.

It will be inserted inside the cylinder. An adjustment valve of the same diameter as the pipe is placed at the top of the blower pipe. A threaded pin is welded vertically to the inner wall of the pipe; a hole is drilled at the edge of the damper for this pin, ensuring that the damper mounted on the pin closes the pipe exactly.

After installing the damper, tighten it with the wing nut. By loosening the nut, moving the damper towards the edge of the pipe and tightening the nut back, it will be possible to regulate the flow of air into the firebox.

Place the lid on top and the entire stove is ready.

All that remains is to install the chimney pipe. Its diameter must be less than 150 mm, otherwise combustion products will not be completely removed. For good traction, it is better to have a pipe 5 m long. Install it near the stove, preferably on legs. Weld the bottom of the pipe hermetically.

Connect the stove end-to-end to the elbow, which is welded to the chimney pipe, tighten it with a clamp, placing fiberglass under it for tightness. To drain the condensate that collects in the pipe, a ball valve is welded under the pipe elbow (a rod can be used to clear the blockage).

This tap is absolutely necessary, since freezing of the condensate can cause the weld to rupture. Condensation, in addition, can flow into the stove, and through leaks in the connecting clamp - out.

Now you can now heat the “bubafonya” stove. After removing the cover, pull out the air supply device. Place the firewood - the height should not exceed the height of the lower edge of the chimney elbow. If you place firewood vertically, more will go in. You can choose large logs, up to 20 cm in diameter - they will burn without any problems.

A top layer of finely chopped wood chips is formed. Place a rag or paper on top and pour a little kerosene on it. Now the firewood is covered with a pancake of the air supply device, and the stove lid is strung on top. When opening the air damper, throw a piece of lit paper or rag inside the air supply pipe (matches quickly go out due to strong draft).

When the firewood flares up with a characteristic crackling sound, the blower damper is completely closed. Bubafonya can work in this mode without any supervision for days.

This long-burning wood stove produces little ash due to the fact that the wood burns almost completely. The ashes may not be removed for a long time.

As you can see, it is quite possible to construct Bubafonya stoves with your own hands. Many craftsmen make them not only from barrels, but also from old gas cylinders and large fire extinguishers. The main requirement for a future furnace is strong steel walls.

This is how you can make a long-burning stove.

Homemade long-burning stoves: operating principle

Pros and cons of a homemade long-burning wood-burning stove

Solid fuel stoves running on wood have one serious drawback: it is very difficult to automate the combustion process, and for some designs it is impossible. From time to time you have to take a break from your work and add firewood, which burns out in about an hour. To extend the operating time of the furnace on one load, the furnaces are equipped with a long-burning mode.

What is long burning mode

Wood combustion is a complex physical and chemical process that occurs in several stages. When ignited, while the temperature in the stove is low, the wood heats up and darkens. At temperatures above 200 degrees, pyrolysis begins - decomposition under the influence of temperature into solid residues and pyrolysis gases. These gases themselves are flammable because they contain hydrogen, carbon monoxide, organic vapors and carbon in the form of soot. It is the combustion of pyrolysis gases that produces a bright flame with a high temperature.

In a conventional furnace, complete combustion of pyrolysis gases does not occur due to a lack of oxygen. In long-burning furnaces, a separate chamber or combustion chamber is intended for afterburning of pyrolysis gases, where they are enriched with atmospheric oxygen. Thanks to this, fuel is burned more completely, less soot and other harmful substances are released into the air, and the efficiency of the stove increases.

To avoid excessive temperature in the wood pre-combustion chamber, air access into it is limited. The firewood begins to smolder, releasing a large amount of pyrolysis gas. Due to the slow smoldering of firewood, the operating time of the stove on one load increases significantly, in some cases reaching 6-8 hours. This phenomenon is called the “long burning mode”.

Advantages and disadvantages of long-burning stoves

Like any other unit, such ovens have their pros and cons.

The undeniable advantages include:

• economical consumption of firewood;
• high efficiency, up to 85-90%;
• versatility in the choice of fuel, firewood, waste from woodworking enterprises, sawdust, and pellets are suitable;
• small sizes;
• ease of control - using an air damper;
• simplicity of design, thanks to which it is easy to make a long-burning stove with your own hands.

Long-burning stoves are not without their disadvantages:

• during combustion, condensate is released, on which soot is actively deposited in the chimney, therefore special requirements are imposed on the chimney design - it should not have corners, bends, its design should be as accessible as possible for cleaning;
• To switch to the long-burning mode, the stove must first be heated in the usual mode to warm up the stove itself and the chimney, otherwise the combustion process will stop.

All the described features of long-burning stoves are relevant both for industrial heating units and for home-made stoves.

Design of long-burning furnaces

Long-burning stoves have design features. They consist of two chambers or combustion zones, in one of which pyrolysis of wood occurs, and in the other, afterburning of wood gases occurs. The location of the cameras relative to each other may be different.

In some models, fuel is loaded from above; as a result of primary smoldering, the firewood compacts and settles, and gases enter the afterburning chamber, which can be located either below or through a partition on the side of the first chamber. Such stoves are often equipped with blower fans to direct the draft into the desired channel.

In other models, the pre-combustion chamber is located at the bottom, and the pyrolysis gases rise into the upper chamber without forced draft. Such stoves do not require a fan, but their loading chamber volume is usually smaller.

To regulate the combustion intensity, an air supply channel with a damper is provided. It can also have different shapes and depends on the type of stove. To compact the fuel and make smoldering more intense, some stoves are equipped with a weight that lowers as the wood burns. Typically, long-burning sawdust stoves have this design.

Application of pyrolysis furnaces

Long-burning stoves using wood, pellets or sawdust are often used to heat utility rooms and workshops, garages, and greenhouses. They can also be used to heat a house, but it is necessary to ensure that the stove is sealed, as carbon monoxide may be released.

You can find out how to make a smoke generator for cold smoking by looking here.

Here you will find the most understandable drawings for creating an effective potbelly stove with your own hands: http://gidpopechkam.ru/pechki/burzhujki-chertezhi.html

Materials for making a long-burning stove

Long-burning stoves can be made by hand from sheet metal or various metal structures. Examples and drawings of such stoves are given below.

Barrel stove

A home-made heating device intended for heating utility rooms, made from a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. The stove runs on sawdust, shavings and other woodworking waste. Inside the large barrel on a stand there is a small barrel for loading fuel. Below it is an ash pan - a drawer made of sheet metal.

The stove itself is placed on a stand, the role of which is played by a car disk. A smoke pipe is made from pipe scraps with a diameter of 100-150 mm. The barrel is equipped with a sheet metal lid with a handle and an opening for air supply.

A log sharpened to a cone is installed inside a small barrel; it is indicated in the drawing. Sawdust is poured around it. After compaction, the log is removed and the sawdust is set on fire. During the smoldering process, gas is released into the space of a large barrel, where it is burned.

Furnace with water circuit made of metal pipe

A homemade long-burning stove made of a metal pipe, which can burn wood or sawdust, is equipped with a water circuit. Loading is done from below; to intensify combustion, an air distributor is installed inside the stove, pressing the smoldering wood.

A telescopic hollow pipe is installed in the center of the disk, through which air flows directly into the combustion chamber, where, thanks to the ribs welded onto the disk, it is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the firewood. It lowers on its own as the fuel burns out. You can lift it before loading using a cable.

The loading door is located in the center of the oven. At the bottom there is a cleaning door and an ash pan. At the top there is a chimney. The stove is equipped with a water circuit with pipes for water inlet and outlet. Such a stove with a water circuit can heat small houses and other premises quite efficiently, and you can make it with your own hands from scrap materials.

Furnace from a waste gas cylinder

A stove can be made from a gas cylinder without extra costs or searching for suitable material. The dimensions of the 50-liter cylinder are perfect for making such a stove, and the wall thickness and tightness make it safe to use.

The design of the furnace as a whole does not differ from the previous model, this can be seen in the drawing. A propane tank with a cut off top is used as a body. You can make a cover of suitable size with your own hands from sheet metal with a hole for the air distributor pipe.

Fuel is loaded through the top, filling the volume of the cylinder almost to the chimney. This stove operates on sawdust and other waste, as well as small firewood. The fuel is carefully compacted, ignited using wood chips or an ignition agent, an air distributor is installed, and then covered with a lid.

The efficiency of such a stove is quite high, and thanks to its sealed housing, it can be used to heat rooms where people stay for a long time. If desired, it can be equipped with a water circuit by passing the chimney through the boiler.

Stove "Bubafonya" from a gas cylinder

The design of the stove is as simple as possible; it consists of only a few parts: a body, a lid, an air distributor and a chimney. For stability, the stove can be placed on legs from the corner. To remove ash from below, you can make an ash pan with a door.

1. The remaining gas is released from the gas cylinder and washed several times with water.
2. Cut off the top of the cylinder. You can use it to make a furnace lid by making a hole with a diameter of 65 mm in the center. The edges of the lid and the furnace body are ground so that the lid fits tightly onto the body.
3. In the upper part of the cylinder, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is made for the chimney and a piece of pipe 30-40 cm long is welded horizontally.
4. At the bottom of the cylinder, a cleaning door is made for the ash pan. To do this, cut out a rectangular section of the cylinder body, grind the sections, weld the hinges and install the door on the resulting hole. The door is equipped with a latch.
5. The balloon is placed on legs for stability. They can be made from a corner, pipe scraps or a wheel rim.

For ease of carrying, rod handles are welded on the sides.

The homemade sawdust stove “Bubafonya” can be equipped with a water circuit. In this case, it is installed in a permanent place. Typically, this stove is used as a mobile stove: it can be placed in a greenhouse during freezing periods, used to heat a workshop or barn in the winter, or used to heat a garage. Subject to fire safety requirements, Bubafonya is safe and effective.

Long-burning wood-burning stove: homemade design from scrap materials