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Alphabetical index of plants from “A” to “Z.” Planting and caring for multifloral cotoneaster, growing the demanding shrub Common cotoneaster ornamental trees and shrubs

Common cotoneaster is considered an evergreen or deciduous plant, from which hedges are formed and landscapes are landscaped. The plant is also a wonderful honey plant that attracts insects. They will pollinate fruit bushes and trees, and vegetables in the garden. Let's take a closer look at what types of shrubs there are, how to plant and care for cotoneaster, as well as its propagation.

Brief description of the bush

Common cotoneaster grows slowly, has no thorns, and reaches a height of up to 2.5 meters. It is rare to see small cotoneaster trees in the garden. The plant has ovate leaves, dark green in color, which turn slightly red in autumn. The shrub blooms with white or pink flowers and bears fruit with red or black fruits.

Cotoneaster has a dense crown and a large number of branches from which you can create a green figurine of any shape. Bushes are often planted to create hedges, which in the fall are abundantly covered with red or black berries and reddish-green leaves.

Cotoneaster withstands drought and frost, and is also not afraid of dust and gas pollution, which is why it is often planted in big cities near roads. There are more than 40 types of cotoneaster, from which you can choose the most suitable option to decorate your territory.

There are also varieties of cotoneaster, the fruits of which are often used for cooking. The berries have an antiseptic effect and help improve body tone. Edible chokeberry bush is used to prepare decoctions that help cure gastrointestinal diseases, nervous disorders, epilepsy, liver and kidney diseases.

On the territory of our country you can often find the following types of cotoneaster:

  • Common cotoneaster is an upright, deciduous shrub with a rounded crown and wide ovate leaves. The leaves are smooth, shiny, dark green on top, and pubescent below, like felt. This variety tolerates frost best of all, grows on any soil, is used to create hedges, and loves intense sunlight. Fruits with white-pink or red fruits;
  • Shiny cotoneaster is a densely branched, upright growing shrub with shiny oval leaves and pink inflorescences. The plant attracts with its rich green and purple-red leaves. Fruits in the form of balls have no taste. But they remain on the branches of the bush until winter;
  • Chokeberry cotoneaster has ovate leaves, pink flowers, which are collected in loose clusters and emit a pleasant aroma. The cotoneaster bush bears fruit with spherical black fruits. Tolerates frosts, grows on any soil, propagates by seeds or cuttings;
  • horizontal cotoneaster grows only 50 centimeters. Its shoots spread along the ground. The bush has small round leaves that are green and red in autumn. Blooms with pink-red flowers. This variety needs fertile soil and cannot always survive severe frost. But it can withstand drought and needs frequent pruning as it grows quickly. Decorative rock gardens are created from it;
  • Dummer's cotoneaster has small leathery leaves, creeping and rooting shoots. It blooms with red inflorescences and bears coral-red fruits. Bright fruits with burgundy leaves of the bush beautifully decorate garden areas in autumn. This type of plant can grow in any soil, well-lit or slightly shaded area. Tolerates drought and frost if covered with snow.

It is necessary to take note that to create hedges it is recommended to plant shiny and chokeberry cotoneaster, and for alpine hills it is best to choose a horizontal type of cotoneaster.

Features of planting shrubs

Cotoneaster is planted or replanted in the spring, when the ground has already warmed up well, but the buds have not yet blossomed. Any type of shrub can be safely replanted in the spring. Shiny and black-fruited cotoneaster are best planted in the fall before the first frost.

Read also: Planting, care, propagation of Kampsis liana

Any soil can be used for planting, but to prevent the accumulation of moisture near the roots, the soil must be well drained. Fill the dug trenches with expanded clay, broken bricks or coarse sand mixed with gravel.

It is also advisable to prepare the soil so that the bush grows beautifully and bears fruit well. Mix one part peat compost with two parts turf soil and the same amount of sand. For better health of the bush, you can add a glass of lime to the soil for each meter of trench.

The procedure for planting cotoneaster is as follows:

  1. Dig holes measuring 80x100 centimeters deep.
  2. Cover the bottom of each hole with drainage.
  3. Fill the hole halfway with pre-prepared soil.
  4. Pour water and mix it with the soil.
  5. Place cotoneaster seedlings in the center of each hole.
  6. Spread the roots and cover them with soil.

Water the planted bushes again. Mulch the tree trunk circles. Trim the crown by a third. This procedure is carried out so that the roots of the seedlings feed the branches and foliage more easily.

It is also necessary to remember that between each plant there must be a distance of 0.5 - 2 meters, depending on the type.

A cotoneaster hedge is planted a little differently. Choose the appropriate type of shrub. Mark and dig planting trenches measuring 70x90 centimeters. Fill the trench halfway with the prepared soil. Plant the seedlings at a distance of 30 centimeters. Pinch the tops of the plants at a height of half a meter. Determine the contour of the future hedge and pinch the tops. Two years after planting, beautiful hedges can be formed from the grown bushes by cutting off excess branches.

Features of plant care

Cotoneaster does not require special attention to care for; it is enough to water the plants immediately after planting, and then not water for a long time. Avoid over-wetting the soil to prevent the bush from dying due to too much water. If the summer is too hot, it is recommended to water the cotoneaster once every 14 days, using 5 buckets of water for each bush.

Read also: Siberian plant on the site - derain

It is important to regularly remove all weeds, loosen the soil under the bushes, and shower the leaves on hot days to wash away dust from them.

Shrub pruning is carried out as follows:

  • every spring it is necessary to do anti-aging pruning;
  • To create a landscape composition, formative pruning is carried out in early spring. The bushes are cut radically with special tools.

At any time, you can carry out sanitary pruning of protruding sills.

Top dressing

Also, cotoneaster needs proper fertilizer. In the spring, the bush needs to be fed with nitrogen fertilizers, urea diluted in water or Kemira-universal granules.

Before flowering, the plant is fertilized with potassium mixed with superphosphate. In autumn, the soil around the bushes is mulched with peat.

Cotoneaster protection

  1. Very rarely, but still, sometimes cotoneaster is attacked by aphids, spider mites and scale insects. If young shoots begin to dry out, special systemic preparations are used to combat aphids.
  2. The spider mite envelops the branches of the bush with a thin web. To combat such a pest, you can use Fitoverm, Neoron.
  3. Karbofos or Rogor fights moths on the plant. Processing is carried out twice with a break of 14 days.
  4. Cotoneaster may suffer due to a fungal disease - fusarium. The bushes are treated with fungicides, and diseased branches are pruned and burned.

Almost all varieties of cotoneaster can withstand frost. It is enough to mulch the soil with peat in the fall. If you still have concerns about the safety of the bushes, bend them to the ground, fix them in this position and cover them with dried leaves. If snow falls in winter, you can remove the leaves from the bushes so that they can winter without shelter. If the winter turns out to be snowless, you can additionally cover the bushes with spruce branches.

How does cotoneaster reproduce?

There are types of cotoneaster that reproduce only by seed; there are those that can be propagated by cuttings, layering, or dividing the bush. If you choose propagation by seeds, take note that the seeds have low germination rate, so they are sown with a reserve. Seeds are sown before wintering, and excess shoots are removed in the spring.

Propagation by seeds

Collect the fruits of the bush and let them dry slightly. Remove the seeds and rinse with water. Place in a glass of liquid. Collect and discard the floating seeds, and those that have sunk can be used for further processing.

Mix sowing material with sand and peat. Moisten, place in boxes and store until spring at a temperature of 0 degrees. During wintering, the seeds undergo natural stratification and are ready for planting.

Read also: Tamarix shrub is a beaded beauty in the garden, grown without difficulty and always pleasing to everyone

In the spring, prepare the soil, sow the seeds and water. After some time, shoots will appear. Excess sprouts can be removed.

Cuttings

In June, cut the cuttings for rooting. Place the cut branches in water with a growth stimulator for 24 hours. After a while, plant them at an angle of 45 degrees in beds with light, loose soil made of sand and peat. Pour warm water and cover with a plastic cap. From time to time it needs to be removed so that the shoots do not dry out.

Water the cuttings without removing the cap, making small holes in it. Next spring, transplant the rooted cuttings to a permanent place of growth.

Reproduction by layering

The creeping and horizontal type of cotoneaster is often propagated by layering. Bend the young shoots to the soil and secure them with metal staples. Sprinkle humus at the attachment point.

Next spring, carefully separate the cuttings from the main bush with a shovel and plant them in a permanent place. Propagating cotoneaster in this way is considered the most reliable and simplest option.

Dividing the bush

Large mature bushes are divided into parts and planted in different holes. The division of the bush is carried out in spring or autumn. The delenki are immediately planted in the prepared pits. This method of propagation is the fastest and the survival rate of the bushes is high.

Is it worth planting cotoneaster?


If you are wondering whether it is worth planting cotoneaster on your site, remember that it is often used by designers when creating landscape beauty. When choosing a cotoneaster variety before planting, consider the following requirements for the plant:

  • the bush should be well suited to the climatic conditions of the area;
  • throughout the year the plant should have an attractive appearance;
  • caring for a bush should be convenient and pleasant;
  • the soil of the site must be suitable for cotoneaster;
  • the bush must withstand drought, severe frosts or other weather conditions;
  • Also, the plant should not need constant replanting.

It is the cotoneaster that meets all the points described, so you can safely plant it on your site. The bush also keeps the soil from crumbling, especially if the area is sandy or located on a strong slope.

Thanks to a chic living hedge made of cotoneaster, you can hide any imperfections in your garden.

Now you know how to plant and care for cotoneaster, what types of shrubs there are, and how it reproduces. Do not hesitate whether to plant a plant in your garden or country house. Be sure to plant it and enjoy the beautiful view, pleasant aroma and healthy fruits throughout the year. It is only important to choose a more suitable type of cotoneaster and plant it correctly.

Cotoneaster multiflorum- Сotoneaster multiflorus Bge. It is found naturally in the Caucasus, Central Asia and Western Siberia, and Western China. It grows singly or in small groups in forests, as well as in bush thickets. Protected in nature reserves. In cultivation it is found in botanical gardens in Europe.

Semi-evergreen shrub up to 3 m tall, with thin, tomentose, curved branches when young. Broadly ovate leaves up to 5 cm long, silver-gray in spring, dark green in summer, purple-red in autumn. Less frost-hardy than brilliant cotoneaster. Quite large white flowers (up to 1 cm), similar in shape to serviceberry flowers, are collected in 6 - 20 corymbose inflorescences and make it very spectacular during the flowering period lasting from 16 to 25 days. Bright red, abundant, spherical fruits enhance its decorative value in autumn. Fruits from 5 to 6 years of age. The fruits ripen in August.

Frost-resistant and drought-resistant. For successful development it needs fertile and lime-rich soil. Propagated by seeds. The seed sowing rate is 4 - 6 g per meter. Very good in single and edge plantings. Since 1879, it has been widespread throughout the European part of Russia.

It has a beautifully fruited form (f. calicarpa) - with narrower and longer leaves than the typical form and larger, up to 1 cm, abundant fruits.

Location: They develop better in areas with full light, but also tolerate partial shade.

The soil: low demands on soil fertility and moisture. However, the following soil composition is recommended: turf soil, peat compost, sand in a ratio of 2:1:2. Multiflorous cotoneaster needs lime 300 g/m2. m.

Landing: distance between plants is 0.5-2 m, depending on the diameter of the crown of an adult plant. Planting depth 50-70 cm: root collar at ground level. Drainage is required (gravel or broken brick, 10-20 cm layer).

Care: in the spring, complete mineral fertilizer is applied: Kemiru-universal at the rate of 100-120 g per 1 sq. m or 20-30 g of urea per 10 liters of water. In the summer, before flowering, give granular superphosphate 60 g/m2. m and 10-15 g/sq. m potassium sulfate. Many types of cotoneaster are drought-resistant and do not require watering, or it is only needed in very dry summers, 1-2 times a month, 8 liters of water per plant. Loosening is carried out shallow (10-15 cm) after removing the weeds. After planting the seedlings, mulch with peat in a layer of 5-8 cm.

Cotoneasters respond successfully to shape pruning, forming dense hedges of medium height. After pruning, they grow back strongly, maintaining their growth form. It is allowed to trim 1/3 of the length of the annual shoot. Cotoneasters overwinter with a light cover of a dry leaf or peat with a layer of 3-6 cm or under snow. Sometimes in winter the branches are bent to the ground to protect the flower buds from frost.

Protection from pests and diseases: Fusarium. The affected parts of the plants are removed and burned. Disinfect the soil or change the planting site if the disease spreads strongly. The yellow bear is combated by spraying with any of the organophosphorus insecticides. Against aphids - early spring spraying with DNOC or nitrafen. The larvae are sprayed with karbofos, metafos, rogor, saifos. If necessary, spraying is repeated. Among herbal infusions, they use black henbane, tall larkspur, potato tops, yarrow, shag, etc. Against moths after flowering and in the summer they spray with: amifos, karbofos (0.1-0.4%) or rogor (0.2 %). The most effective are fozalon (0.2%) or gardon (0.1-0.35%). During flowering, entobacterin is used, applying two or three times with an interval of 12-14 days.

Reproduction: seeds, layering, cuttings, grafting. Seeds, as a rule, have very low germination (40-60%). When washed, defective seeds float to the surface and must be discarded. The remaining seeds should be sown and remember that they have a long dormant period and are very difficult to germinate. They need to be stratified and sown in the fall of next year.

When propagated by green cuttings, a high percentage of rooting is obtained when the cuttings are covered with film. The best time for cuttings is the second half of July. The substrate consists of a mixture of peat and sand, taken in equal quantities.

Usage: very valuable ornamental shrubs due to their dense crown, shiny dark green leaves and numerous bright fruits that remain on the branches for a long time. Recommended for edges, groups, single plantings on the lawn, borders and dense hedges. Some species are used to form undergrowth, on rocky hills and slopes.

And there is much more useful information about the plant, its distribution area and care features. Therefore, amateur gardeners are actively experimenting on their plots of land, creating corners pleasing to the eye with all the elements of a landscape garden.

Dogwood and cotoneaster. What are the similarities and what are the differences?

Both of these plants are natives of southern latitudes. Until recently, the consonance of names generally confused gardeners, who were expecting delicious berries from a planted cotoneaster bush, but could see real dogwood thickets only in the Crimea.

In fact, other than the similarity in sound, these two plants have nothing in common. First of all, they are from completely different families: dogwood is from the dogwood family, and cotoneaster is from the rose family. Dogwood has a large, juicy purple berry with a seed, and at the cotoneaster- the fruits are small, similar to a tiny apple, of various colors and completely inedible, except perhaps for birds.

What makes it attractive to a landscape garden connoisseur?

The attractiveness of cotoneaster for gardeners- in the wide decorative possibilities of this shrub, which can be, depending on the variety, deciduous, semi-evergreen (retaining part of the leaves in winter) and evergreen. And most importantly - an effective element of garden decoration at any period of its life:

  • it has a thick spreading crown;
  • easily formed by cutting into hedges;
  • the crown can reproduce any shape given to it;
  • plants vary in growth form (erect and creeping);
  • original shiny foliage;
  • blooms profusely with small white or pink flowers;
  • flowers are honey plants;
  • by September, red or black berries are abundantly strewn on the branches;
  • by autumn the leaves acquire a yellow-orange or burgundy-purple color;
  • the roots of the plant strengthen retaining walls, slopes, and slopes well;
  • have high winter hardiness and drought resistance;
  • tolerant to the gas composition of the atmosphere of cities;
  • easily rejuvenated by pruning at the root;
  • life expectancy – 50 years.

When and where were they “tamed”

Native to southern Europe, Asia and North Africa in its wild forms, cotoneaster was described and classified in the 17th century under the name Cotoneaster. The first part of the word (Cotonea) is translated from Greek as “quince” (due to the similarity of the shape of the leaves). The second (aster) is an aster, a star (probably in the shape of a spreading crown). This poetic name was given to him by the recognized “father of botany” - the Swiss scientist Caspar Baugin.

Subsequently, it was found that the largest concentration of this plant is in the southeast of China, where it climbs to a height of up to 4000 meters, and the genus of this shrub includes 40 species.

The varietal diversity of cotoneaster, achieved by botanical gardens in different countries, has reached the second hundred names since the end of the 19th century. Only in landscape design, 80 of its species are now actively used, 2 species are on the environmental list.

What varieties are popular in gardens of temperate latitudes of Russia?

  1. Common cotoneaster(whole edge) grows beautifully from the Baltic to the Caucasus.
  2. It grows upward, reaches 2 meters in height with a rounded crown. Prefers the sunny side. It has oval-shaped shiny leaves with a matte back side. The flowers are white and pink, the berries are red. Does well on calcareous soils. We tolerate frost, drought, and gas pollution in cities. Distributed in Central Russia and its northern regions, widely used in landscaping in Moscow.

  3. Dummer cotoneaster(coral beauty hybrid). Native to the mountainous regions of Central China.
  4. A characteristic feature is creeping shoots that branch in a horizontal plane. Therefore, the height does not exceed 30 cm, and the spread of branches is up to 1.5 meters. It grows quickly. The coral-colored fruits are tightly pressed to the branches. In autumn, the color of the bush is complemented by the purple leaves. This variety tolerates winter well when covered with snow. Grows on poor rocky and sandy soils, but loves watering. Reproduction is possible in 3 ways: seeds, cuttings and layering. Planting depth - up to 50 cm.

    Photo of Dummer's cotoneaster (hybrid cotoneaster Coral Beauty or Coral Beauty).

  5. Cotoneaster aronia naturally grows in forests of any type. It is the object of protection of nature reserves. Safely acclimatized in the central zone of the Russian Federation, although its homeland is China, Central Asia, and the Caucasus.
  6. A two-meter shrub with large (6 cm) leaves and spherical black fruits. Blooms for up to 1 month with pink flowers collected in a brush; An excellent honey plant, it begins to bear fruit in the 5th year. It also does well in the shade and is not picky about the soil. Tolerates transplantation well; Propagated by both seeds and cuttings.

    Photos and videos about the cotoneaster shrub.

  7. Cotoneaster pressed refers to creeping dwarf plants.
  8. The height does not rise above 50 cm. It has spreading branches that form a crown 2 m in diameter. It begins to bloom from the 9th year of life, blooming in May with pink flowers. Propagated by layering and seeds. Resistant to cold if covered with snow cover.

  9. Cotoneaster splayed- 2-meter shrub with a dome-shaped crown.
  10. During the year it grows up to 30 cm. Sun-loving, drought-resistant. Grows well in fertile soils. Blooms in June, fruits ripen by September. In autumn, the leaves turn orange and the fruits turn red. Suitable for molding trimming. Looks impressive in hedges.

  11. (creeping) has pinnately branched shoots tightly pressed to the ground.
  12. The bush is especially decorative because of its bright red fruits, which remain on the branches until spring. In autumn, the dark green crown takes on a purple tint, which is especially appreciated by designers.

  13. - originally from Siberia.
  14. An upright deciduous shrub, reaches 2 meters in height. It bears fruit from the 4th year and has black fruits that remain on the branches until late autumn. Photophilous. The best option for formed cultivation.

Cotoneaster: planting and care

What does a plant need to grow well? A system of measures that ensures effective growth conditions is, in essence, plant care. Care consists of preventive and regular measures, and although cotoneaster is generally unpretentious, growing it you can’t do without the following agrotechnical concerns:

  1. Choosing a landing site.
  2. For placement in the garden, different varieties allow for variety in the choice of site: sunny or shaded. But in our regions, it is still advisable to plant cotoneaster in open areas with sufficient sunlight. The choice of location is also influenced by whether the bushes will be planted single or continuous.

  3. Selecting soil for planting.
  4. The soil is prepared from 2 parts sand, 1 part peat compost and 2 parts turf soil + it would be good to add 300g per 1 square meter of plantings. lime The depth of the planting holes is 50-70 cm. Even when planting seedlings, so that they have a growth zone, you should take into account the crown span of an adult plant.

    It would be correct to drain the soil by placing broken brick or gravel at the bottom of the hole. This rule is especially important for horizontal cotoneaster.

  5. Soil fertilization.
  6. With the first days of spring comes the time to fertilize with nitrogenous fertilizers. To do this, dilute 25 grams of urea in a bucket of water. You can use ready-made granular fertilizer "Kemira Universal" of prolonged action. Before the plant begins to bloom, it is fed with potassium (15g) or superphosphate (60g) per 1 sq. meter. At the end of the growing season, the soil is mulched with peat.

  7. Watering.
  8. For most varieties, watering the bushes once a month is quite sufficient; in hot summers - once every 2 weeks. Usually, each plant is watered at the rate of 6-8 liters of water, then weeded. The soil is loosened and mulched with peat.

  9. Trimming.
  10. Used for crown formation, rejuvenation and as a sanitary pruning of branches by one third of the annual growth.

  11. Preparing for winter.
  12. In late autumn, the plant is covered with dry leaves, a layer of peat and covered with snow. To preserve the flower buds, the branches of some varieties are bent to the ground for the winter and insulated with spruce branches.

How to create your own nursery

To get a new plant, I use the following methods of reproduction cotoneaster:

  • seeds;
  • cuttings;
  • layering;
  • vaccination.

Let's look at each method:

  1. Growing cotoneaster from seeds.
  2. Considering that cotoneaster seeds have a very long period of dormancy and they germinate with difficulty, they are sown in the fall. During the germination period, the seeds are regularly watered from a watering can with a fine mesh. Seedlings are protected from direct sunlight and cold air. When 2-3 leaves appear, the plants dive into open ground at the end of the season or even next spring. Due to the low germination of seeds, this method is unproductive, and due to its labor intensity, it is not very popular.

  3. Cuttings carried out in mid-summer, late July - with green cuttings and in late autumn or early winter - woody.
  4. Soft branches of young shoots are cut into pieces of 10-15 cm with two internodes and treated with a solution of a growth stimulator (heteroauxin or rootin). After which the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse, in a prepared substrate with a top layer of 5 cm of well-washed sand. The cuttings are planted in well-drained soil to a depth of 5 cm at an angle of 45 degrees. Rooting is completed by autumn, and then the plant is planted in the garden, not forgetting to insulate it for the winter, among other things, with spruce branches.

    Woody cuttings are harvested at the beginning of winter and stored in the basement, in a box with sand. And in the spring, having cut the preparations into pieces of 10-20 cm (necessarily with three buds!), they are rooted in the same way as green ones (see above).

  5. Layerings- these are shoots of the mother plant bent to the ground.
  6. They are carefully pinned with wooden hooks to the moistened soil and sprinkled with earth. After the development of a new plant in a sprinkled area, it is separated from the branch and planted in the ground in a permanent place of growth.

  7. Grafting into cleft- the easiest way to get planting material.
  8. Cuttings for grafting are prepared in winter, buried 15 cm in sand in a vertical position. In the spring, a rootstock is selected from one-year-old seedlings or part of the root of a mature plant. The grafting is done into a vertical section of the seedling trunk or the root collar of the separated root. The cutting is prepared as follows: an oblique cut is made above the upper bud, the lower part is cut as a wedge of two oblique cuts 4 cm long. The scion is inserted into the split of the rootstock and tied with plastic tape. The top cut off from the rootstock is smeared with garden varnish. When the graft has grown together securely enough, the plastic tape is removed.

What does the concept of “protecting” a plant include?

A few words about the benefits

  • The berries of this plant have a high content of flavonoids (plant pigments) and anthocyanins (monosaccharides);
  • in late autumn and early winter, the berries become food for birds;
  • cotoneaster resin is used to treat some skin diseases;
  • the fruits are used to treat gastroenterological diseases and metabolic disorders;
  • decoctions and infusions of fruits and young shoots are effective as a diuretic and for liver diseases;
  • infusions of cotoneaster help with neuroses, nervous fatigue, epilepsy, hysteria;
  • cotoneaster berries are used to color drinks, in particular liqueurs;
  • The fruits, crushed into powder, are added to gingerbread dough, marshmallows, and candy filling.

So, when creating the garden of your dreams, do not ignore this plant, beautiful in all seasons, unpretentious in care, useful in its chemical composition, which, by the will of fate, has taken root so well in our latitudes.

And remember: cotoneaster is not dogwood, it has has its merits!

(Cotoneaster lucidus)

Cotoneaster is an upright growing shrub up to 2 m high. It is not picky about soil fertility. Light-loving, but can withstand partial shade conditions. Drought resistant. Does not tolerate stagnation of moisture in the soil. An excellent plant for creating shaped and free-growing hedges. Used in the design of edges, decorative groups, single plantings on the lawn, and borders.

(Cotoneaster horizontalis)

Cotoneaster horizontalis is a deciduous ornamental shrub with an open or creeping crown. Very widely used in Europe. It grows slowly. Not picky about soil. Photophilous, tolerates partial shade. Drought resistant. Frost-resistant. Decorative with almost horizontal shoots and characteristic branching, similar to a fish ridge. Recommended for planting in rocky gardens, on retaining walls and slopes.

(Cotoneaster dammeri)

Dummer's cotoneaster is a ground cover evergreen low shrub up to 15-20 cm in height with creeping branching rooting shoots and numerous short branches. One of the best ground cover evergreens. Grows quickly. Shade-tolerant, not picky about soils. Drought-resistant and quite frost-resistant. It can be used to create large evergreen carpets. An indispensable plant for rock gardens.

(Cotoneaster divaricatus)

Spreading cotoneaster is a dense shrub with widely spreading shoots, 2-3 m in height, and with age often 5 m in width. It grows quickly. Light-loving, but also tolerates partial shade. Tolerates drought and high air temperatures well. Quite winter-hardy. Suitable for trellises, single and group plantings.

(Cotoneaster suecicus Juliette)

Swedish cotoneaster Juliet is a creeping low shrub, in maturity it forms peculiar convex hummocky forms, about 0.5 to 0.8 m high and 0.7 - 1 m wide. It has beautifully colored leaves, young ones are green with a white pattern, older ones - with an addition of red. Prefers fertile, moist soils. The young plant needs shelter for the winter. Regular watering is advisable. Recommended for planting on slopes. Gives an interesting colorful accent to every garden. Use: rockeries, ground cover. Suitable for urban landscaping.

- a low deciduous plant valued for its decorative appearance. The foliage of this evergreen shrub turns from green to red in late autumn. The shrub is actively used in landscape design, arranging it in various compositions.

Common cotoneaster (Cotoneaster integerrimus)


Common cotoneaster distributed from the Baltic states to the North Caucasus, in natural conditions it grows on mountain slopes, sandy and limestone-rich soils. It is a rare guest in garden culture.

The height of the common cotoneaster reaches 2 meters, the young branches are pubescent, but then, as they grow older, they become bare. The bush has a compact round crown. The leaves are wide, egg-shaped, leaf length is about 5 cm.

The outer side of the leaf blade is dark green, glossy, and the inner side is gray and rough. White-pink flowers are collected in racemose inflorescences. In autumn, bright red large fruits ripen. This variety is resistant to drought and frost.

Cotoneaster lucidus


Motherland cotoneaster brilliant- Eastern Siberia. This upright, deciduous shrub is densely covered with luscious foliage. Cotoneaster grows up to 3 m in height. Young branches are gray-brown in color at the edge; in winter the stems acquire a red-brown color; with age, the branches get rid of lint.

The crown of young bushes grows slightly elongated, and as it matures it takes on a round shape. Cotoneaster is a rather spreading bush, the diameter of the crown of an adult plant is up to 3 m. The length of the leaves is from 2-6 cm, width is 1-4 cm.

The leaves, shaped like an irregular ellipse, are dark green in summer with a yellowish inner side, and take on a reddish tint in winter. The flowering of the bush begins in May and lasts about a month.

The bush begins to bear fruit at the age of 4 years. It has beautiful, glossy black ball-shaped fruits. Most often, shrubs are used for planting hedges or borders. Cotoneaster brilliant has been known and cultivated since the beginning of the 19th century.

Cotoneaster horizontalis


This plant belongs to the prostrate species of cotoneaster. An evergreen shrub up to a meter high, its crown grows up to 2 m in diameter. The arrangement of its strong branches resembles the backbone of a fish.

The leaves of the shrub are round, glossy, green in summer, bright red in autumn. Flowering begins in May, small white and pink flowers delight the eye for 22 days. The bright red fruits ripen in September and remain on the branches until spring.

Horizontal cotoneaster is presented in two types:

  • Variegatus- a low shrub up to 30 cm, with a crown growing up to 1.5 m in diameter. On the green leaves of the bush there is a white stripe along the edge;
  • Perpusillis– a dwarf plant (up to 20 cm), as the crown grows it grows up to a meter. The slow-growing bush blooms with pink flowers in June. At the end of summer, Perpusillis is covered with scarlet berries. The leaves are green in summer and turn burgundy in autumn.

Dammer's cotoneaster (Cotoneaster dammeri)


Dummer cotoneaster looks similar to the previous, horizontal view. It grows naturally in the mountainous areas of China. This shrub has branches that creep along the ground, which allows it to reproduce spontaneously.

The shoots branch in one plane and grow in diameter, not rising above 30 cm. The leaves of Dummer's cotoneaster are dense and small, the shape of the leaves is ellipsoidal. In autumn, like many cotoneasters, the plant changes the green color of its leaves to red.

It blooms with red inflorescences and subsequently bears fruit with coral-colored berries. Cotoneaster fruits can stay on the branches for a long time. This species has been popular since 1900. The most popular varieties:

  • Eykhol h – up to 60 cm tall, with reddish-orange fruits;
  • Coral Beauty– up to 40 cm, with red fruits, large but single;
  • Stockholm- a tall, up to a meter, shrub with bright red fruits.

Cotoneaster adpressus


This is a low-growing species of cotoneaster, growing up to half a meter. The diameter of its crown is a meter. Its branches seem to spread along the ground, the crown looks pressed to the ground. The leaves of cotoneaster are small, round, light green, and scarlet in autumn. The species is slow growing, reaching maximum growth within 10 years.

Did you know? In Tibetan medicine, the fruits, bark and leaves of cotoneaster are widely used for medicinal purposes. Decoctions and infusions from different parts of the plant are used to treat skin diseases, nervous disorders and problems of the digestive system.

Cotoneaster multiflorus


The homeland of multi-flowered cotoneaster is the Caucasus, Central Asia, the western territories of China and Western Siberia. The shrub is tall, growing up to 3 m in height. It has curved thin shoots. Wide leaves in the shape of an irregular ellipse change color seasonally: in summer - green with a silvery tint, in autumn - purple.

The inflorescences are small, white, and during the flowering period the bush seems to be covered with snow. The fruits are large, round, bright red in color. The plant loves illuminated areas; due to the small number of the species, it is protected in nature reserves. In Europe, the crop is grown in botanical gardens.

Attention! Despite their frost resistance, young plants must be protected from frost for the winter.

Cotoneaster melanocarpus


Cotoneaster aronia gets along well in the middle zone. It is quite winter-hardy; in its natural environment it lives in the Caucasus, northern China, Europe and Central Asia. The height of the plant reaches 2 meters, the branches are brown with a red tint.

Egg-shaped leaves up to 5 cm long. The upper side of the leaf is rich green, the underside is whitish. Racemose inflorescences with pink flowers, blooming in May, last up to 25 days. This crop has edible black fruits. Aronia cotoneaster has been cultivated since 1829.

Interesting! Various decorative accessories are made from chokeberry wood: souvenirs, smoking pipes, spectacular carved canes.

Pink cotoneaster (Cotoneaster roseus)


Pink cotoneaster distributed in India, Iran and Pakistan. Low, up to one and a half meters, shrub. Thin red shoots have a edge at a young age, but become bare when mature.

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