Rafters for an attic roof. Calculation, fastening and installation of the rafter system of the attic roof How to install rafters on the attic roof

- This is not a very ordinary design.

Such a structure must not only complete the entire structure of the building and perform protection functions.

But also conducive to a comfortable life in the room located underneath it.

In order for the living space to be suitable for use, it is necessary to understand the essence of the design of such a structure and the nuances of its installation processes.

Such a design has a number of elements that make up a complete roof system.

The structure of the attic roof looks like this:

• Roof. Roofing is necessary for providing reliable protection from the influence of atmospheric conditions both the entire house and the entire roof system.
• . The supporting part of the attachment system is most often constructed from wooden boards.
• Ridge run. The very top of the entire system.
• Rafters. Supporting ribs that create rigidity for the structure. They have two varieties - hanging and layered.
• Mauerlat. The element is represented by beams that used for fastening the rafter system. The element repeats the location of the perimeter of the house and is fastened to each wall using fasteners.
• Diagonal piles. For that, so that the roof structure system has a high level of reliability, the rafters are connected to each other by beams located longitudinally and by vertical posts, which are connected together by diagonal braces or bevels.
• Internal supports. An element that is located under each rafter leg and provides it with stability.
• Insulation layer. This layer unites the entire roof system into a single whole, while creating reliable sealing, vapor and sound insulation. This layer has its own structure and is multi-layered. All materials that are used to equip this layer are necessary to provide all kinds of properties that ensure comfortable living in the attic.

What components and parts does the attic roof consist of, you will see in this drawing:

Mansard roof design drawing

Roofing pie

Each type of roof has its own individual structure.

It is represented by several layers of different materials, which necessary to protect the attic space from cold air masses and high humidity levels.

The roofing pie of the attic roof includes:

• Lathing;
• Vapor barrier layer;
• Counter grille;
• Thermal insulation layer;
• Waterproofing;
• Ventilation systems;
• Roofing material.

Each layer is designed to perform specific functions that are necessary for the proper functioning of the entire roof system.

If you make mistakes during installation or neglect any of the layers, then this may lead to the need to redo the entire structure.

• . The simplest type of roof over an attic, but not very popular. Represents one inclined plane, which is supported on load-bearing walls of various heights.
• . This kind represented by two slopes, which are located opposite each other.
• Broken. This type of roof has other names - half-hip. This type of design allows you to make the attic space optimal. This design has four slopes. It is quite convenient to live in an attic with this type of roof.
• Conical. The most complex type of design, represented by a cone. Suitable for buildings which have round or polygonal outlines.

Types of roofs

If we talk about the types of rafter systems, they come in 3 types:

1. The hanging type of rafters ensures the transfer of load in a horizontal position to load-bearing walls. Such rafters are the basis of the entire system. There is no need for intermediate supports; wooden or metal ties are used to connect the beams.
2. The layered variety of rafters is used if the load-bearing wall is located in the center of the building or if there are intermediate supports. This type of rafters is installed on external walls, while their middle part is supported by internal walls. Such a structure can only be built if the distance from the load-bearing wall to another is up to 6.5 m.
3. The hanging and layered version of the rafter system is represented by triangles having a right angle. Additionally, this design is equipped with contractions at the bottom and top of the system. To suspend the ceiling, use the tightening of hanging rafters.

Mansard roof: gable structure of a wooden house

Tilt angle

A very important parameter in roof construction is determining the angle of inclination of the roof. This value is determined not only by the design of the building, the features of the facade, but also by the selected roofing material and local climatic conditions.

If precipitation in the area where the house is located is of great importance, then The roof angle ranges from 45 to 60 degrees.

This slope value will ensure better snow removal from the surface, and, accordingly, a decrease in the load level. In addition to precipitation, this angle parameter protects the roof from icing.

If the house is located in an area where strong winds are a frequent occurrence, then the value of the slope angle should be minimal. Otherwise, the structure may be destroyed due to weather conditions. Under such conditions, variations in this parameter range from 9 to 20 degrees.

However, the most common and optimal roof angle is 20-35 degrees.. This value is suitable for arranging a roof with almost any type of material.

CAREFULLY!

The angle of inclination largely determines the durability and reliability of the structure.

Tilt angle

Installation process

In order to install an attic roof, you must follow a certain sequence of actions:

1. Initially, the upper beam is attached, which has section parameters of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. Fastening is carried out using nails, metal staples or self-tapping screws. At the same time, the first beam provides the function of a rafter frame.
2. The following is installation of the Mauerlat, which is necessary to take most of the load. To install it, you will need a board with a thickness of at least 5 cm and a beam with cross-sectional parameters of 5x10 cm. Before laying the board, lay a layer that is necessary to retain moisture and not destroy structural elements. The Mauerlat is attached with nails or staples and additionally tied to the walls using metal wire. The wire is installed at the stage of wall construction.
3. Next, install the rafters, choosing for this step from 0.6 to 2 m.
4. The gable rafters are installed first., after which they tighten the level and begin to mount the remaining elements.
5. After the rafter legs are all installed, provide additional structural reinforcement, connecting the rafters to each other in their upper part.
6. If the roof length exceeds 7 m, then installing ridge beams. Otherwise, equipping the rafter system with a similar element is not necessary.
7. Once installed move on to equipping the layers of the roofing pie, having previously installed the sheathing.
8. The last stage in roof construction is laying roofing.

Installation of sheathing

Installation of rafters

The rafter system is one of the final stages of building a house. The durability of the building itself and the comfort of living in it depend on how correctly it is executed. Simplicity of execution allows you to do the work yourself with the assistance of an assistant.

Rafter systems for the attic

Today there is a real boom in the use of various architectural elements in suburban construction, which, in the context of industrial construction, would seem to be a thing of the past forever. We are talking about devices such as bay windows, attics, mezzanines and the like. They can significantly increase the usable space and give the building an original, beautiful look.

Attics are especially popular, allowing you to create a full-fledged living space in the under-roof space. For this purpose, special rafter systems are used to ensure the possibility of creating such a room, provided that the structure is of sufficient strength.

The installation of a broken attic roof allows you to get a full-fledged living space on the second floor

Types of rafter systems

The main types of rafter systems for attic construction are presented in two options:

• gable;
• broken rafter system.

Photo gallery: what is an attic

A sloping roof allows you to obtain the optimal combination of the roof slope and the usable area underneath. It is possible to increase the volume of the attic in a structure under a gable roof only due to the high height of the ridge. The attic can be “equipped” with an external structure with a balcony under a separate roof. The balcony can be an integral part of the attic roof structure.

However, in practice, the roofs of a country house are so diverse that it is almost impossible to classify them. The design uses a variety of elements:

• hip bevels;
• birdhouses;
• awnings;
• semi-built-in translucent structures (greenhouses);
• lanterns and other architectural solutions in the most original and sometimes unexpected combinations.

Photo gallery: projects of houses with a gable roof and an attic

A gable roof can be decorated with an elegant “birdhouse”, which will also increase the area of ​​the attic. In large houses, a gable structure can be used as one of the elements of the roof composition. The main idea of ​​such a house is to combine simplicity of execution with perfectly selected finishing elements

Elements and components of the attic roof rafter system

Obviously, the most durable structure is a gable roof. But to obtain a sufficiently spacious room with such a rafter arrangement, it is necessary to reduce the angle between the slopes, and this leads to an increase in wind loads on the roof. A reasonable solution is to create a semi-attic, when racks are installed from floor to ceiling to a height of 1.3–1.8 meters, and rafters are already attached to them. Such a device requires the installation of low crossbars to compensate for the thrusting loads from the rafter legs on the racks.

To increase the useful volume of the attic, the crossbars that form its ceiling are installed as close as possible to the ridge unit

The use of a sloping roof allows you to simplify the shape of the attic room and obtain a larger volume of living space.

The construction of a sloping roof allows you to get a much larger attic than the installation of a conventional gable roof

The main elements of the rafter system are:

When installing a rafter system, additional parts are widely used to strengthen the fastening of structural elements.

The use of modern fasteners allows us to effectively strengthen the structure and significantly reduce installation time

Calculation of the rafter system

The initial data for the calculation are taken from a previously developed project. For example, let’s look at a roofing diagram with an attic.

The design drawing indicates the dimensions, installation locations and material of all elements of the roofing system

The main indicator, calculated first of all, is the pitch of the rafters, depending on the planned finishing coating. So, to install ceramic tiles, the pitch of the rafters should be no more than 60 centimeters, and if you plan to install a plastic covering or soft roof, this figure can be increased to 120–150 centimeters. Again, you need to take into account the nature of the loads - a combination of the effects of wind and snow - and set the optimal angle between the roof slopes.

The procedure for calculating the number of rafters

For example, consider the installation of roofs for a house 10 meters long. As a first approximation, we take the distance between the rafter legs to be 80 centimeters. Then you will need them: 1000: 80 + 1 = 13.5. Since the number of rafters must be an integer, we round the result to 13. In this case, the exact distance between them will be 1000: 13 = 769 (millimeters). This is the exact value of the gap between the axes of the rafter legs.

When calculating the need for materials, you need to take into account their cutting ability. In the case of wood materials, their length can be 4 or 6 meters. During the design process, it is necessary to select the dimensions of parts taking into account the formation of the smallest amount of trim . Coniferous wood trimmings are unsuitable even for firewood for stoves.

Materials for truss structure

The traditional material for rafters in Russia is wood. Larch is considered the best option, however, due to price and availability, it cannot always be used. Therefore, beams made of coniferous wood are used. The size of the section depends on the design of the building.

Composite profiled wood materials are becoming increasingly common. These include:

1. Wooden I-beams. These products are interesting because they are made mainly from wood waste. The supporting surfaces are made of multi-layer waterproof plywood and the wall is made of OSB. Such structural materials have a load-bearing capacity no less than solid timber. The requirements for antibacterial fire protection treatment are much more relaxed; the material has already undergone all protective treatments during the production process. At the same time, it does not undergo cracking, and its mechanical properties are the same in all directions.

   In individual construction, wooden materials that mimic the shape of metal ones are increasingly being used.

2. Wooden channels. They are produced in the same way as I-beams. The main application is load-bearing elements of wooden structures. The strength characteristics of this profile are higher than those of natural wood and wooden I-beams. Often such products are made from solid coniferous wood. This significantly reduces the weight of the structures and the load on the foundation.

   A wood channel is stronger than timber and weighs less

3. Glued beam. This material is rarely used for the installation of rafter frames. Its main application is the laying of log houses. They use timber with a core made of ordinary pine needles and outer plates made of expensive wood species: oak, larch and other valuable materials. For rafters, beams made of homogeneous plates of increased length are used in highly stressed areas of the system.
4. Metal profiles. They are not used so often for assembling rafter frames. The most convenient material for installation is profile pipe. The disadvantage of metal profiles is the need for periodic measures to protect against corrosion. Elements of the rafter system, as a rule, are tightly closed by the roofing pie and the interior decoration of the attic, which greatly complicates access for maintenance.

   The metal truss structure is susceptible to corrosion and requires regular maintenance

Construction of a rafter system for a gable roof with an attic

The gable roof rafter system is based on a triangle - the most rigid figure.

Only the main elements of the rafter system are listed. Additional parts can be used to increase the strength of the structure.

Installation of the roof truss system taking into account the formation of the attic

The rafter system of a gable roof can be formed in two ways:

1. Assembly of the main structure below, followed by lifting to the ceiling and installation on the mauerlat.
2. Installation of rafter legs in detail directly at the installation site.

The first option is a more productive and convenient way.

Assembling the roof trusses below

This work is done in the following order:

Video: assembling roof trusses “on the ground”

Installation of rafter elements

The rafters, as the main load-bearing element of the roof skeleton, must be securely connected to each other. Many different methods have been invented for this, including specific ones designed for certain types of buildings. The rafter system of a wooden house requires special attention. The beam is attached to the Mauerlat by a sliding device, and the ridge connection is made on a hinge. This is due to constant seasonal movements of the log house, which must be compensated.

Photo gallery: methods of connecting rafter legs

The rafter legs are attached to the mauerlat using metal corners. The rafters are connected at the ridge end-to-end or through a cut. The critical nodes of the rafters are connected using metal connecting plates. The rafter legs are connected using special hinge joints, ensuring freedom of movement of the structure during seasonal deformations of the building. The joint in the ridge can be reinforced with bolts.

Installation of support posts and purlins

This is a responsible operation, because at this stage the surface of the front finishing of the walls and ceiling of the attic is formed. Therefore, the execution procedure is the same as when installing rafters:

For the manufacture of all parts of the rafter system, timber of the same dimensions is used, usually measuring 50x150 or 40x150 millimeters.

Video: quick installation of the rafter system

Lathing

This is a mandatory element of the rafter system. In the case where a warm attic space is formed in the under-roof space, the sheathing is done twice:

1. External sheathing is used to secure the finishing roof covering. In addition, if each board is attached to the rafters with two nails, it serves as a fastening element of the frame. In addition, an insulating and moisture-proof roof pie is formed under the sheathing.
2. The internal sheathing serves as a frame for insulating the attic and installing the final finishing of walls and ceilings.

In addition, counter battens are also installed, with the help of which the ventilation system of the under-roof space is organized.

The counter-lattice is placed parallel to the rafters and provides clearance for ventilation of the under-roof space

For the lathing, a board measuring 25x100 millimeters, edged or unedged, is used. Unedged boards must first be sanded. It is not recommended to use a board wider than the specified size. When warping, it can deform the finishing coating or damage the roofing pie.

The sheathing boards are fastened with nails at least 70 millimeters long and at least two nails for each intersection. This method increases the structure’s resistance to wind loads.

The spacing of the sheathing depends on the material of the finishing coating - for ceramic tiles and soft roofing it should be minimal (about five centimeters); for metal tiles or corrugated sheets, a distance between the boards of up to 70 centimeters is allowed.

A properly laid roofing pie must contain a ventilation gap between the insulation and the roofing material, which helps quickly remove moisture

Video: lathing the rafter system

Rafter finishing

After installation of all roof elements, the rafter system becomes practically inaccessible for inspection and maintenance. Therefore, before installing each part in place, it must be carefully treated with protective compounds. There are enough special products on the building materials market to protect wooden structures from damage by bacteria and rot, as well as various fire-fighting impregnations.

Before installing parts of the rafter system, they must be treated with special protective compounds.

It should be taken into account that carrying out protective operations on a finished structure is not always effective, since hidden surfaces remain untreated.

Any wood protection products are certified by government agencies, so when purchasing, you need to ask the seller for a certificate of conformity. It is issued by sanitary authorities and fire inspectors. First of all, the safety of the composition for humans and its compliance with the declared qualities are guaranteed.

Which of them to choose is decided by the consumer himself, depending on his financial capabilities. In principle, you can always run into a fake, but this will become clear only after many years of use.

Impregnations can be applied with a wide folded brush or roller, but a spray gun is often used.

Video: installation of a gable roof rafter system with an attic

A reliable roof largely determines the life cycle of a building. A properly installed roof ensures the comfort and cost of living in a home. In Russian conditions, when heating is needed most of the year, a properly installed insulated roof retains up to 30% of the heat. And high-quality insulation is possible only with a high-quality rafter system.

The attic allows you to expand the space of the house and allocate space for additional rooms. The complexity of self-installation is reduced after studying materials about the features of the building. The work of the owners is paid for by the durability and beauty that the rafter system of the created mansard roof receives. This material will help you in its construction.

The support of the entire roof, and therefore the basis of the attic structure, is the rafters. They must be selected in accordance with several parameters, calculated taking into account the characteristics of the materials. The selection options are as follows:

• Load. The sum of the weight of everything that makes up the attic roof, to which 10% is added to avoid errors. The rafters must withstand the weight of the totality of all materials, as well as the load of snow in winter and gusts of wind at any time of the year.
• Installation speed. When constructing prefabricated buildings, it is better to use metal rafters, which are installed by specialists in the shortest possible time.
• Easy to install. At this point, thin-walled metal rafters again win.
• Material cost. Since metal is a priori more expensive, and the complexity of the advanced design of mansard roofs multiplies the price, wooden rafters are much cheaper. For this reason, they benefit from building an attic themselves.

Further, as a more traditional option, wooden rafters will be considered. In addition to the above two types, there are also combined buildings, but the rafter system of the attic roof is rarely built with their help. Below are various diagrams of systems that may be useful when building your own attic.

In this article

Choosing the type of attic

Attic spaces have several types, differing in insulation design and structural strength, as well as the type of roof. An insulated attic is suitable for those who intend to turn it into a living space used all year round. As for the cold attic space, it is suitable for dacha owners.

Types of attic buildings vary depending on the slope and shape of the walls:

• Vertical.
• Sheer.
• Triangular with a sloping roof.
• Complex shapes, which are generally called broken shapes.
• Single-level.
• Two-level.
• Symmetrical appearance of the walls.
• Walls of asymmetrical design.

These parameters will help determine the type of attic. The article discusses the three most common of them:

1. Classical.
2. Triangular.
3. Blocky.

For owners of houses based on individual projects, the main characteristics will allow them to create their own unique design.

Development of an individual project

In your own home you want to create maximum uniqueness. Both in the case of choosing your own form, and when using one of the schemes below, the owner needs to make a clear construction plan to avoid problems. You need to adjust the general drawings to your home and recalculate the parameters taking into account new materials. For success, follow these tips on how to do the project right:

• Create an attic of such a height that you can not only sit and store things, but also walk comfortably. This is especially true in the case of living space.
• Observe the dimensions of the attic. Don't make it too big, otherwise the building will look ugly.
• Do not use wide roof slopes, otherwise the windows will be blocked and the rooms will be darkened.
• The rafter system of the attic roof requires drawings. Don’t waste time on a visual plan; it will help during construction.

Classic scheme

Most often, an attic with a pentagonal roof is chosen, because this scheme of the rafter system of the attic roof provides a larger, more functional space. Supports are used to create the walls of the room. The easiest way to describe the design is using several geometric shapes:

1. Rectangle. This is the center of the attic, a space that can be used for any purpose.
2. Right triangles: one on the left and one on the right. This space is no longer so versatile.
3. The ceiling part is a triangle with equal sides.

This rafter system for the attic roof is not original. . If you want to create a non-standard, perhaps designer attic, on your site, then below is a list of other less common schemes.

Triangular pattern

This is the simplest, although not the best, way to create. Thanks to the steep slopes of the roof, almost no snow remains on it, as a result of which the load is reduced. But at the same time, there is less living space. Features and rules for the construction of a triangular attic:

• Support - Mauerlat. The weight of the rafters, inclined in appearance, is transferred to it.
• The upper part of the supports is attached to the left and right purlins.
• Hanging rafter arches required for the ceiling part are also used.
• When using hanging rafters and provided that they are the basis for a space more than 3 meters long, a suspension is used. It is installed in the center. The suspension is not a support, so the next point is logical.
• The suspension is not built on the principle of a support strut.
• Considering that the building is susceptible to falling due to gusts of wind, it needs to be additionally secured. For this purpose, the rafters are attached to the walls using twists.
• The rafters of the lower part rest on the ceiling.
• The posts cut directly into the beams, given that the floor is wooden.

Important! Each rafter is attached to the wall, and not through one. This principle is necessary in this particular case.

Block type

The ceiling becomes a support for pre-prepared block modules. The biggest advantage of this system in assembly is that it is simple and carried out on the ground. It is much easier to create this type with your own hands than the others. Two points are important:

• On the ground it is easier to connect the elements and make a stronger bond
• In conditions of height, a person becomes agitated, thereby reducing the quality of the entire building. On earth, errors not only occur less frequently, but are also more noticeable.

At the same time, there is also a drawback. The rafters of the attic roof are quite heavy, which makes it difficult to lift the structure to the floor, and this can only be done with the help of a team of 4 or more people. The task is easier for those who have special lifting equipment, but there are only a few of them.

Installation algorithm:

1. Drawing up a project.
2. Creation of frames - the foundations of the walls of the attic room. Longitudinal parts are a replacement for standard purlins and beds. They, as well as the racks, are delivered to the assembly site - a flat earthen surface.
3. Next, we mark the places where the supporting structures of the sidewalls will be attached. They should look like lines, which, when subsequently filed, create nests for fastening.
4. Installation and fixation for a short period of time. For the second, spacers are used; In addition to being held in place, beams are attached to the frame.
5. The beams must have sockets for connection to the rafters in the attic roof. The tools used are a chainsaw and a chisel.

Important! The nests for the rafters must be on the same line, otherwise the structure will look oblique.

• The top tier of attic rafters is also created on the ground. The base of the resulting structure is at the same time a stretcher within the attic system. Nests are created at the edge of the base. Don't forget to decide on the tenons on the lower halves of the rafters.
• All elements of the upper part are connected to each other: a wooden addition for the ridge assembly will help with this. It would be useful to install an additional crossbar.
• Before moving to the attic roof, rafter leg blanks are created. We try them on to the frames laid out on the ground. It is more convenient to cut them in one fell swoop, grabbing several pieces with a clamp. Only the upper bevel should be cut, taking into account the fact that it will rest partly on the wall post, partly on the stretch of the upper rafter trusses.
• The lower rafter is tried on at the end. The shape of the spike is drawn in the area of ​​its lower heel, repeating the configuration of the socket in the beam. Thorns are cut out.
• The upper tier moves to the roof along with the rafter legs of the lower tier. We first install the trusses, attaching them to the upper frame of the walls with staples, then the rafters of the lower part, attaching them to the floor beams with the same staples.

The subsequent stages of roof construction are carried out according to standard rules. Visual diagrams for an attic roof, representing the structure, will introduce you in detail to the described principles of constructing a rafter system. .

Important! The strength of the frame can be increased by using notch joints. This will avoid additional elements, for example, struts.

The given options for attic space schemes are universal: home owners will be able to choose the one that best meets their requirements. Regardless of the type of attic, the main thing is the correct materials and installation of the rafter system. Then the building will last a long time and will be safe for residents.

Thanks to the construction of an attic roof, it is possible to significantly increase the usable space of a low-rise private house. However, this is a very labor-intensive process that requires preliminary calculations and adherence to certain rules and techniques. A well-designed mansard roof truss system is the key to creating a comfortable, reliable, functional and durable residential building.

Before building an attic, you need a good design. The appearance of the future roof should be in harmony with the general appearance of the building. There are several types of rafter frame design, which depend on the type of roof, the pitch of the rafters and the option of the attic roof. Having chosen a specific configuration, you should know exactly what structural elements the rafter system consists of. It is the supporting skeleton of the roof, and can withstand not only its weight, but also the effects of precipitation.

Correct installation of the rafter system ensures its reliability, functionality and durability.

When creating a mansard roof project you should:

• perform the correct calculation of the load on the supporting load-bearing walls and foundation, preventing it from being exceeded;
• choose high-quality thermal insulation to avoid uneven heating of the room;
• choose good sound insulation thanks to properly selected roofing material;
• choose good waterproofing;
• choose light-weight cladding materials for finishing the attic space.

Mansard roof plans

The rafter system can have an inclined or hanging structure. In hanging structures, the rafters rest on the mauerlat and ridge girder. To distribute the load on the rafters, lower and upper tie bars are installed. When the length of the slope is more than 4 m, to prevent sagging in the lower part of the structure, the rafter legs are supported with the help of racks and struts. The main advantage of this design is that all its elements are placed in unused areas of the attic, which creates more free space.

The inclined design is used in houses where in the middle of the building there is a load-bearing partition on which the construction legs rest. A bench is laid on the internal supporting structure, which plays the role of a Mauerlat, and the racks that hold the ridge girder are mounted on it. This system is used for large areas of the attic roof of a private house, the structure of which can be seen in the photo. Here you can use roofing materials with greater weight, such as slate or ceramic tiles.

There are projects for attic roofs of private houses where both options of rafter systems are used. To free up free space, the frame elements can be moved to one side, where they will be used as a basis for finishing the walls, and the crossbar is suitable for cladding the ceiling. In some architectural styles, beams and posts can be used as decorative elements.

To arrange a large eaves overhang, the attic roof is made with emphasis beyond the load-bearing walls. The Mauerlat is not installed here. The system is mounted using beams. A strut must be installed, special racks are cut into the floor beams, and the rafters are secured using a reliable anchor connection and twisted wire.

Mansard roof design elements

The rafter system for an attic roof consists of the following structural elements:

• Mauerlat;
• rafter legs or beam racks;
• vertical racks;
• runs;
• ridge beam;
• lathing;
• additional beams, beams and purlins.

The basis of the entire roof structure is the mauerlat, which consists of square-section wooden beams attached to the external walls of the building. The remaining elements of the attic roof frame are attached to these boards. The main purpose of the Mauerlat is to absorb and uniformly distribute the entire load from the overall roofing system onto the load-bearing walls of the building.

Rafters or beam posts form the frame of the roof structure. For these elements, you should select boards that can withstand the load of the roofing pie together with the outer covering. To support racks of beams or rafter legs, purlins are used that are installed at an angle. Vertical posts hold the central part of the rafters, protecting them from bending. They also provide support for the ridge beam.

To ensure the rigidity of the future roofing structure, a ridge beam is mounted on long rafter systems. The sheathing is an additional wooden structure that is attached to the rafter system and serves as the basis for the future roof.

Types of mansard roofs

Today there are several options for mansard roofs, which have different rafter frame designs:

• single-pitched;
• gable;
• broken lines consist of two or more slopes with different angles of inclination;
• hip ones have two triangular slopes on the short sides of the roof and two trapezoidal slopes on the long sides;
• half-hip have two short end hips above the front of the roof;
• domed are characterized by a round or polygonal shape;
• vaulted have the shape of an arc in cross-section.

A pitched roof is the easiest option to implement. He is often turned to when it is necessary to make an attic on a small country house. The most popular among other types of attic roofs of private houses, photos clearly confirm this, is a gable roof. Designing and building it yourself is not difficult. Especially when it comes to a gable roof.

When choosing a sloping roof, it is possible to get a large, functional and comfortable attic space without additional work associated with the construction of walls. Today, many zealous owners of private houses prefer a gable roof rafter system under corrugated sheets, the construction of which does not require numerous technological and technical tricks and unreasonably high expenditure on building materials.

The most difficult to install are hip, dome and vaulted mansard roofs. Their installation requires a professional approach. These mansard roofs, photos of private houses clearly display this, they have an unusual and very aesthetic design. They are characterized by a large number of pitched fractures, for which valleys are installed. The diagram of the rafter system clearly shows the peculiarity and uniqueness of this design. The unsatisfactory condition of each of the valleys (internal corners) can pose a potential danger to the integrity of the entire roof.

Single pitch mansard roof. Photos of successful projects

The simplest, most reliable and cheapest option is a mansard-type pitched roof. The result is a non-standardly designed building. This type of roof is used for industrial and commercial buildings. Also, often used for one-story small private houses. All roofing materials can be used here.

The design involves creating a window in the high part of the attic roof. This design does not have a ridge, which simplifies its installation. The Mauerlat is fixed on walls with different levels, due to which a bevel is formed. The beams rest on it.

The slope angle should be within 35-45 degrees. The lower the slope, the more snow will accumulate on the roof surface, which will require the creation of additional supports and strengthening of the load-bearing beams. In addition, this will significantly reduce the attic space. The structure is able to withstand strong winds with the correct orientation of the roof slope, which is necessary to increase the stability of the structure.

Helpful advice! If the distance between opposing load-bearing walls is no more than 4.5 m, you can not mount supporting elements, but simply lay long wooden beams on the walls. This further reduces the cost of constructing the roof.

This type of roofing involves the use of simple elements to create ventilation for under-roof spaces. It is enough to cover two overhangs with perforated soffit, or install a ventilation grille.

However, you should not choose a pitched roof for narrow buildings, where it is inappropriate to arrange the attic floor in this way.

Gable mansard roof: construction features

A gable roof is the most common and rational solution that allows you to get a comfortable attic. Photos of houses with a mansard roof of this configuration confirm the demand for the design.

Designing and building a gable mansard roof with your own hands does not cause any difficulties. It is formed thanks to two inclined planes (slopes), which intersect in the ridge area at a certain angle. Thanks to the correct choice of the optimal angle, you can create reliable protection for the building from heavy precipitation, strong gusts of wind, and excessive snow pressure during heavy snowfalls.

There are different configurations of the truss system for gable mansard roofs:

• a symmetrical gable roof is a classic option, which makes it possible to evenly distribute the load on the load-bearing walls and roof support. The disadvantage of this design is the presence of sharp corners that take up the free space of the attic;
• an asymmetrical roof is a non-standard design where the ridge can move to one side. If one of the angles is more than 45 degrees, you will get a fairly spacious attic room. However, the calculations should take into account the uneven distribution of the load on the mauerlat and load-bearing walls.
• a broken mansard roof has a surface of slopes that are bent in the middle, forming edges resembling two rectangles.

Mansard roof rafter system. Drawings of the classic version

When the question arises of how to make an attic roof for a house with your own hands, you should choose the option that is easiest to implement and practical for further use. Therefore, for private houses, preference is given to sloping roofs.

This design allows not only to create a large attic space, but also, thanks to the overhangs that go down quite low, to protect the upper part of the building walls and the foundation from precipitation. In addition, this is a good solution for creating an original exterior of a private house.

Related article:

How to choose the right material. How to avoid common mistakes at work. Do-it-yourself step-by-step work.

The angle of inclination of a sloping roof depends on the region, climatic conditions and the choice of roofing material. The classic broken mansard roof, the drawing of which clearly shows this, has a slope ratio of the upper slopes to the floor plane of 30 degrees, and the lower ones - 60 degrees. The angle of inclination of the side surfaces can vary from 45 to 80 degrees.

Helpful advice! For regions where strong winds are typical, it is better to install flat roofs. Because the larger the slope, the greater the windage it creates.

Taking as a basis these data, the parameters of the house, and the fact that the ceiling height in the attic should not be less than 2 m, you can calculate all the parameters. In the classic version, the load on the side surfaces from precipitation can be ignored, since they will be held in the upper part of the roof.

Calculation of the attic roof

On specialized websites you can find a do-it-yourself drawing of a broken mansard roof for a small house. It can be taken as a basis for future calculations, which include the calculation of the attic space, loads, elements of the truss structure and the amount of building materials.

To calculate a mansard roof, you can use the many years of experience of specialists who have repeatedly erected a classic sloping roof and can tell you what material should be used. Many parameters of the rafter frame depend on this. Calculation of the required amount of lumber to create a rafter system comes down to determining the height and width of the spans, and, accordingly, the number of wooden blocks, which is multiplied by their heights.

The width of the insulation determines the pitch between the rafters, which should be 3 cm less than the width of the insulating material in order to reduce the amount of waste and simplify its installation. The boards for the rafter legs are also selected taking into account the thickness of the insulating material. In the case of using basalt wool with a thickness of 200-250 mm and creating the required ventilation gap of 20-30 mm, the minimum width of the board is 230 mm. The thickness of the rafters must be more than 50 mm.

For beams and racks, you should choose timber with parameters of 100×100 mm, which will create a strong and reliable structure even for areas in difficult weather conditions.

To calculate the amount of insulating and roofing materials, mathematical formulas are used to determine the areas of geometric shapes from which a certain type of attic roof is formed.

Today on the Internet you can perform an online calculation of a mansard roof. To begin with, indicate the type of attic roof, the diagram of the rafter system, insulation and roofing material, and enter the requested geometric parameters. To obtain a more accurate result, you should use the services of a specialist who will not only calculate all the loads and dimensions of building elements, but also tell you which material is best to choose.

Windows for mansard roof

The attic differs from ordinary rooms in that its walls are a rafter frame, which consists of certain roofing surfaces, which is clearly shown in the drawings of attic roofs. This also affects the design of the window for a given room, which must transmit natural light well, and at the same time withstand the load in the form of strong gusts of wind or heavy precipitation. This is due to the fact that the influence of weather conditions on the sloping part of the roof is much stronger than on the massive load-bearing elements of the building.

Important! According to SNiP, the window area must be at least 10% of the total floor area.

The window in the attic roof, the photo clearly shows this, can be located in the plane of the roof, inclined or vertical, or be at the end of the attic. Vertical windows in the roof plane can be protruding above it (dormer), or recessed into the room.

The most popular and easiest to install is a sloping window in the roof plane. It is able to let in the maximum amount of natural daylight. After its installation, the roof surface does not change, but remains flat. However, this option requires the creation of proper waterproofing of the junction. Here you should use special models with reinforced glass and a reinforced metal-plastic frame.

The area of ​​the window opening is selected in proportion to the angle of inclination of the roof. The width of the window must be selected so that the element fits into the distance between the rafters without compromising the integrity of the structure. If the window is much wider, then you will have to install a reinforced beam that will connect the cut rafters to install the window. In this case, if one narrow window is not enough, it is better to install two adjacent narrow elements, which will ensure the integrity of the rafter frame.

To install a dormer window, a more complex roof geometry is required, namely, the installation of side and upper ends is required, followed by their careful waterproofing. Laying the roofing also becomes more complicated.

It is advisable to install a vertical window recessed into the room only when it will provide access to the balcony. In other cases, these are unjustified significant financial costs (complication of the roof geometry) with minimal effect (insufficient natural lighting).

The simplest, most practical and cheapest option is to install a window at the end of the roof. This is especially true for country houses with a mansard roof.

Methods for installing an attic roof

The installation of the rafter system of the attic roof can be carried out in two ways. The first option involves assembling the rafter frame on the ground, followed by lifting it in finished form to the top of the house and thoroughly securing it. The method is effective for small-sized structures.

How to properly make a mansard roof with the assembly of part of the rafter system on the ground? First, at the top of the building, the outer structures, which will later become gables, are vertically exposed and secured. They can be temporarily secured using long beams nailed to the wall. Recesses with a given pitch are created in the Mauerlat, where the assembled structure will be mounted. To ensure the correct geometry and create rigidity of the structure, its elements can be secured with spacers. When the installation of the side beams is completed and the entire system has acquired the necessary rigidity, the spacers can be removed. The installation video of the rafter system for a gable mansard roof will clearly show all the features of this option.

The second option is more traditional. It involves installing an attic roof on site following a strict sequence of actions. This method is most convenient and effective when constructing large-sized rafter systems. Because to lift the assembled structure to the top, you will need to use specialized equipment.

How to build a mansard roof in the traditional way?

Some subtleties in the technology of constructing attic roofs of private houses depend directly on its type. However, the sequence of actions is similar for all types of attic roofs.

Before making an attic roof, it is necessary to lay the mauerlat longitudinally on the load-bearing walls and secure it to the masonry or armored belt using pins or wire rod. The rafter structure of the attic roof of a wooden house can be attached to the upper crown, which will act as a mauerlat.

The construction of an attic roof begins with the installation of floor beams. They are attached to the Mauerlat. Then the construction legs are attached to the beams. In the center of the beams, you should mark the installation locations of the supports and the ridge element.

Keeping the same distance, racks from boards should be mounted, securing them with corners. The first pair of racks is fastened with ties made of wooden blocks. Rafters should be mounted on the formed U-shaped structure. They can be installed on the mauerlat or by cutting a groove on the floor beam.

Next, you should proceed to the installation of ridge rafters, which are connected using metal plates or bolts with washers. To create the necessary rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to attach struts to the central part of the side rafters and the rack, and mount beams in the center of the tie. The installation of other trusses is carried out in a similar way with a distance of 60-100 cm. They are attached to each other using purlins.

With the help of staples, all nodes of the attic structure are fixed, and final strength is given to it. After this, you should install the sheathing, which can be solid or sparse, depending on the type of roofing.

If flexible tiles, asbestos-cement flat slate or rolled material are used, a continuous sheathing should be performed. It is installed in two layers. The lower flooring consists of bars 20 cm thick, laid in increments of 30 cm. The upper flooring, consisting of boards measuring 20x50 cm, is nailed to the bottom layer at an angle of 30-45 degrees.

For clay tiles, asbestos-cement slate, steel, metal coverings, a sparse type is used. To do this, install bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and increments of 20-30 cm, from the eaves up perpendicular to the rafters. On the overhang, you need to install a flooring made of wooden boards about 70 cm wide. Next, you should fasten the bars along the ridge and the ribs, which are connected end-to-end. This process can be clearly seen in the photo of the rafter system of a gable roof under metal tiles.

Attic roof insulation technology

Insulating the attic roof of a private house allows you not only to insulate the attic, but also to create proper thermal insulation for the entire roofing system so that it lasts for many years.

The attic roof insulation scheme includes a set of measures, which include the creation of heat, hydro and vapor barriers. A roofing material is laid on top of this roofing pie, which protects the entire structure from negative environmental factors. To protect the insulation from the negative effects of condensation, which reduces its thermal insulation properties, it is necessary to protect it from the roofing material. For this, one of the proposed sheet materials can be used:

• waterproofing film, which is attached from the outside to the rafters. It should not touch the insulation material, so it is cut off from it by lathing or counter-battens;
• diffusion membrane ̶ is attached to the insulation and protects it from any exposure to moisture.

Helpful advice! Waterproofing material should be laid with slight sag, eliminating the possibility of tensioning it.

The waterproofing layer must be laid across the rafters. You should start from the bottom. The first row goes down into the gutter. Each next one must be rolled out with an overlap of 10-12 cm. This way you should reach the ridge. There, the material along the upper edge on both sides is cut and secured. A strip should be rolled out along the ridge, which goes down from both sides of the roof to the gutter, which ensures uniform drainage of water.

A vapor barrier layer in the form of a membrane is a reliable protection of the insulation from the penetration of steam from the room into its thickness. The material is also overlapped and attached to the joists using staplers. All joints and abutments should be carefully taped using special double-sided vapor-proof tape.

Helpful advice! A thick line is applied to the vapor barrier film, from which the next layer must begin. Following it, the canvases are fastened with tape.

Important rules for insulating an attic roof

When the question arises, which insulation is best for an attic roof, there is no definite answer. However, due to the fact that the attic roof is characterized by a large angle of inclination, you should not use soft materials that will cake and slide off the surface.

Roll insulation must be laid from bottom to top. To do this, use a construction stapler and lace. When rolling out the roll, the material is pressed against the slats. Using a lace and staples, the letter Z is drawn. Using this technology, each layer of insulation is attached.

It is better to give preference to slabs with a density of 30-50 kg per cubic meter. m. In this case, the pitch of the rafters will have to be adjusted to the size of the insulation, which should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation board. This is required so that the material can be pushed apart without the formation of cracks and be well held between the beams. If the width is smaller or larger, it will be necessary to cut the material. It is not always possible to create an even cut, and moreover, a large amount of residue remains. The slabs should be positioned in such a way that the seams of the previous row overlap the next one.

The insulation is installed in such a way as to ensure a minimum number of cold bridges. Additionally, the remaining material can be laid on strips of the required width that are stuffed from the side of the room. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation layer and lathing is made for future finishing. This option, where even the rafters overlap, almost completely eliminates the formation of cold bridges. Despite the fact that a little more insulation material will be required, the attic will ultimately be warmer, which will make it possible to reduce the cost of heating the room.

Important! Cold bridges contribute to the formation of moisture in the roofing pie. This can lead to rotting of the rafters, swelling of the thermal insulation material, corrosion of metal structural elements, and the appearance of unpleasant odors indoors.

How to properly insulate an attic roof: progress of work

There are two ways to insulate a roof: from the inside or from the outside. When using the first option, you can postpone the completion of interior finishing for a certain period. The second option involves a full range of works, which allows for quick completion of construction.

How to insulate an attic roof from the outside? To do this, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the rafters, clearing it of protruding elements that can damage the hydro- and vapor barrier layer. On the inside of the room, across the rafters, it is necessary to fill the sheathing on which the insulation will be located. Instead of lathing, you can attach galvanized wire or cord.

On the roof side, a thermal insulation layer is mounted on this sheathing in compliance with the above rules. The thickness of the attic roof insulation should be more than 100 mm. A superdiffusion membrane is laid on top of the thermal insulation material. Next, you need to fill the sheathing on which the roofing will be laid.

Now on the inside of the room it is necessary to secure and glue the vapor barrier layer. Next, you can begin interior decoration. This option for roof insulation is considered the easiest to implement. Thermal insulation boards are easily laid on the previously created sheathing.

The technology for insulating an attic roof with your own hands from the inside is carried out in two stages. The first mandatory step is as follows:

1. The waterproofing layer is rolled out and secured to the rafters.
2. The sheathing is being filled.
3. Roofing material is being installed.

After completing the mandatory list of work, you can postpone the insulation of the attic roof for an indefinite period of time, which may be due to the lack of financial opportunity at the present time.

The second stage is less convenient to perform. The attic roof will be insulated from the inside. Here it is necessary to create an enclosing structure that will hold the insulation and prevent it from being pushed out more than possible. To do this, planks are placed between the lags in increments of 40-50 cm. They will not only hold the insulation, but will also create the necessary ventilation gap.

Next, the thermal insulation layer is installed in compliance with all rules. The sheathing is placed on it. Next, you need to position and stick the vapor barrier membrane. After this, you can begin finishing work. To do this, you can mount a sheathing, or you can do without it.

Types of insulation for attic roofs. Which insulation is better?

Today there are several options for insulation for an attic roof:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• isovert;
• ecowool.

The most popular material is mineral wool, namely basalt. This relatively inexpensive material is available in a convenient thickness and sufficient rigidity. It retains heat well, is not flammable and does not rot. However, she is afraid of moisture. Therefore, in order to ensure the preservation of all technical and operational properties, it must be carefully protected from all sides.

Polystyrene foam has good performance characteristics, which enable it to create good thermal insulation. The price of the material is relatively low. It is easily mounted between the rafters by surprise due to its elasticity and due to the fact that you can purchase slabs of the required size. All joints should be sealed with foam.

Helpful advice! During combustion, it is capable of releasing harmful substances, so it is better to give preference to self-extinguishing brands that use special additives.

The material is not afraid of moisture. It does not conduct steam, which is the main disadvantage of foam. In this regard, it is necessary to create a good ventilation system in the attic, which will lead to additional financial costs.

Extruded polystyrene foam has the best characteristics, the thickness of which is two times less than that of mineral wool, and one and a half times less than that of polystyrene foam. The material is equipped with a locking system, which eliminates the formation of cracks. Fungus and mold do not form on EPS; rodents and insects do not like it. However, it does not allow steam to pass through, which requires the creation of a good ventilation system. Another disadvantage is the high cost of the material.

Recently a new type of insulation has appeared - expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied to the surface in liquid form, filling all the cracks. At the same time, having reacted with oxygen, it increases several times in size, forming a monolithic coating.

Helpful advice! The use of expanded polystyrene foam will correct the situation in the absence of a waterproofing layer when installing the roofing.

Another new generation insulation material is ecowool, which has good characteristics. However, its use requires special technology. Loose cotton wool is fed under pressure into a closed cavity, filling all voids and forming a durable, integral layer of insulation. To organize a closed cavity, sheet material in the form of plywood, gypsum fiber board or fiberboard is nailed to the rafters from below and above.

A distinctive advantage of this material is its ability to conduct steam. Here the humidity is regulated naturally, which does not require the organization of a vapor barrier. However, a ventilation gap must be created between the insulation and the roof, where the movement of air masses occurs.

Today, among the possible designs of houses with a mansard roof, you can choose the most acceptable and attractive option, and bring it to life for your own private home. To make a house visually beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, you need to seriously consider the issue of choosing the type of attic roof, which should be in harmony with the structure of the building. A well-designed roof truss system is capable of flawlessly performing all its operational and protective functions, which will create a warm, cozy and comfortable room.

Creating a mansard roof with your own hands step by step. Video instructions

I continue the story about how I build my house, and today I will talk about the rafter system of the house. I was thinking about what kind of system to make, and after carefully weighing all the pros and cons, I settled on one option, which one? Read on - I'll tell you everything!

In this article I will talk about how I drafted the rafter system, how I calculated the pitch of the rafters, how the rafters of the attic roof were installed, and I will also tell you how the rafters of my house are attached.

A short outline of the article:

1. Selection of rafter system
2. Calculation of rafter pitch
3. Preparing rafter blanks
4. Brief conclusion about the article
5. Home news

Now let's take a closer look at each point.

Selection of rafter system

When I was planning the house, there were many variations on the type of roof of the house. The fact that the roof will be mansard was not even discussed, but what shape?

Initially, I wanted to make a sloping roof - a la the 90s, but when I started calculating the floor beams of the house, I realized my mistake and began to look for another option. In this version, I ended up with a large deflection in the ceiling beams in the ceiling of the first floor. This was unacceptable - we had to think further.

Part of the first version of my house

In the end, I settled on a gable mansard roof, with a wall height at the mauerlat of 120 cm. This height turned out to be quite convenient for my roof angle. Without bending, I can freely reach the wall of the house with my hand, albeit resting my forehead on the ceiling)))

The appearance turned out to be very attractive. Installation of the roof of such a roof was also convenient; you can walk on the roof freely. There was a small problem with the material, but I waited a little and they cut the board I needed.

Calculation of rafter pitch

I chose the pitch and cross-section of the rafters based on calculations, the principle is the same, only not the entire length of the rafter is taken into account, but only its horizontal projection.

In general, of course, there are specialized formulas that take into account the average snow load, depending on the region. In a separate article, I plan to tell you how to calculate the rafter system for any region. I practically neglected this, simply taking the load as for covering a house.

The distance between the roof rafters was 60 centimeters, the thickness of the gable roof rafters, or, more correctly, the cross-section was 180x50 mm. This is quite enough in our area, there is practically no snow, here is a photo, you can see the date for yourself))) This moment of course infuriates me in our climate, but what can I do...

Of course, sometimes it drops 60-70 centimeters over the winter, but this happens probably once every 10-15 years. Only our winds blow almost incessantly, and everything is swept away from the roofs. You will almost never see such beautiful roofs as in the photo below in Transbaikalia...

Preparing rafter blanks

After all the calculations were made, I simply selected the optimal angle of the roof, taking as a basis the fact that I couldn’t get boards longer than 6 meters (only one sawmill in the village saws 6 meters, and then only a five and a beam), overhangs at least 60 centimeters from the wall, the appearance should be attractive.

Directly in Vizio, I placed two boards directly on the facade design, choosing the most optimal angle. When I finished with the angle, I measured the distance from the ridge to the mauerlat (the project was initially done to scale, so as not to clash with dimensions later), drew a drawing in a compass, printed it out, and made rafters for the roof according to the drawing.

An important fact will be to make the correct gash of the rafters. You can see how to cut a structure in my drawing and in this video; Larry told me how to do it in different ways.

Video in preparation

I have a ridge roof with layered rafters; all the rafters rest on the ridge and therefore it was made quite powerful.

The ridge is made from hardwood boards with a cross-section of 22x50 centimeters and the final cross-section is 22x10 cm, with a ridge length of 9.6 meters. A very powerful and heavy thing, which the six of us somehow shoved into place.

Places have been prepared for the ridge in the gables of the house, and additionally two support pillars; as a result, the ridge rests on the ground at four points.

Lifting and assembling the rafter system

When the rafters were prepared and the ridge of the house was installed, my brother and I began installing the rafters for the attic roof. The rafters were made of pine, so they could be lifted by one person on the ground and carried by another on the second floor of the house.

All the rafters were neatly stacked along the mauerlat outside the house, then I climbed onto the load-bearing central wall of the house, took the rafters, and my brother handed them to me. Of course, you can assemble the rafter system alone, but if you run around and jump, it’s better to immediately call an assistant.

They fastened it at the same time, I to the ridge, my brother to the Mauerlat. In general, correctly calculated and sawed rafters do not go anywhere when you throw them into place. They just sit and wait for you to kill them.

And yes, I forgot to say, markings were previously made according to the calculated distance between the rafters - on the ridge and on the mauerlats of the house, so that the entire roof would be level and all the rafters would be in their places.

Fastening rafters in a frame house does not cause any difficulties. The main thing is not to violate the principle of operation of the components of a frame house and everything will work out.

The rafters are fastened to the ridge with nails in an oblique manner on both sides, then they are pierced through each other, forming a kind of lock that cannot be pulled apart no matter how hard you try.
The rafters on the outside of the ridge were intentionally made a little longer, then the excess was simply cut off with a saw. But it turned out to be a good supply for nailing.

Since the roof is ridged, the question of how to attach the rafters to the Mauerlat did not arise. I simply fastened them with 120 nails, obliquely on both sides. I don't think anything should escape anywhere.

The façade extensions are made from the same rafters, only they are sawn off so that they fit close to each other, as they are located in the same plane. They rest on a pre-released ridge and mauerlat beams. It was a complete improvisation, and time will tell how it behaves. I hope nothing will run away or fall anywhere. Still, it’s not just the two points that hold it in place, but also the sheathing.

After installing all the rafters, I began installing the tie rods. My tie rods come with the same pitch as the rafters, and are made of 150x50 cm boards.
In the center, the tie is nailed to the load-bearing wall, and it rests on it. The ends of the ties were hung level, and the rough attic ceiling was subsequently screwed onto them. The roof was held together very firmly, especially after installing the sheathing and ceiling.

I could walk freely on top of the ceiling when I was carrying bags of sawdust, and it holds the weight of the sawdust quite calmly.

Let's make a brief conclusion:

The entire process of assembling the rafter system can be divided into several separate stages of work.

1. Let's find out the distance from the ridge to the mauerlat of the house - to make the correct calculations.
2. We calculate the pitch of the rafters and their cross-section. We select based on capabilities and availability of materials for sale.
3. We select the optimal angle of the rafter system. I relied on the appeal of the house.
4. We calculate the locations of the cuts and their angles, or as I did - we draw a rafter in “full height”.
5. We make rafters, leaving a reserve at each end. Saw off from the top after piercing, and from the bottom along the thread - also after installing all the rafters.
6. We lay out the rafters along the mauerlat, in their approximate location.
7. We lift the rafters into place. We use an assistant, it will be hard for one.
8. We pierce the rafters in place. I used five nails to hammer the rafters together, two each to the ridge, and three nails to the mauerlat.

Home news

From home news, nothing particularly unusual happened, I closed the next session, studied all January, the next one in May. Closed pretty well, attached screenshot)))

Lera decided to make a huge dragon with a wingspan of about a meter, we’ll see what happens together! For now, only the frame is ready.

I think it’s time to end the article on this note, I think installing rafters for an attic roof will now not be something supernatural for you, even if you don’t do it yourself, you can definitely control it.

If you have questions or suggestions, or constructive criticism, then welcome to the comments. Don't forget to subscribe for updates.