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Arrangement of ventilation in a private house with your own hands: choosing a scheme and drawing up a project. We make natural ventilation in a private house with our own hands Supply ventilation of a private house

A properly built ventilation system for a private home is a process not driven by a whim or desire to comply with the norms and trends of modern housing, but a procedure that is extremely necessary to maintain climate balance. Complexity plays a special role here: it is not enough to arrange ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom (as many do). Every room in the house needs ventilation.

Insufficient air circulation between indoors and outdoors can lead to air stagnation, the formation of fungus and mold, and allergic reactions, heaviness throughout the body and poor health will become dubious “bonuses” in a room without ventilation.

The main types used in private homes are natural and forced, the distinctive features of which are the use (forced) of additional equipment, or ventilation using physical processes (natural).

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

The main advantage of natural ventilation is the simplicity and low cost of constructing the system, while forced ventilation can boast of more efficient and high-quality work.

Along with a number of undeniable advantages - low cost, ease of implementation - natural ventilation also has disadvantages, which, by the way, are significant. Many construction experts talk about the ineffectiveness of such a system and here’s why:

  1. According to building codes, the permissible temperature outside should not be lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the draft will increase and a large amount of cold air will begin to enter the house. According to some data, heat losses from natural ventilation in some cases reach 40% of the total volume.
  2. The situation is diametrically opposite to the previous point: if it is too hot outside, air exchange is minimized until air circulation completely stops.
  3. There is no way to treat the air coming from the street. The environmental situation in the country and in the world leaves much to be desired. Clean air is more of a luxury than an ordinary thing. Untreated and unpurified air can cause many problems.
  4. Ventilation in the room has limited adjustment. While it is still possible to reduce air exchange by tightly closing windows and doors, it is no longer possible to significantly increase it.

Air conditioning is mandatory

To create an effective atmosphere in the rooms of a private house, it is necessary to resort to complexity: the best option would be a combination of natural circulation with technological developments in this area (fans, filters, etc.).

Why do you need a hood in a private house with a stove or fireplace?

If a stove or fireplace is used in the house not as a decorative element, but performs its direct duties - heating the room, you need to take care of natural ventilation in double. For complete combustion of the fuel, a sufficient amount of oxidizer (in this case oxygen) is necessary. If there is a shortage of fuel, the fuel will not burn completely, releasing carbon monoxide, which will enter the living space. Naturally, there is little pleasant or useful in this.

Ventilation device in a house with a fireplace

If there is not enough air flow, then in the warm season you can open the window - this will be enough. In winter, such a trick is unlikely to work, so even at the construction stage it is advisable to install a pipe under the floor directly to the fireplace, through which the required amount of air will flow.

To organize a hood, they most often resort to the services of experts; this article is aimed at craftsmen who plan to carry out the installation themselves. Next, we will consider the main recommendations for constructing such ventilation, common problems and disadvantages.

How to make a natural ventilation system with your own hands

Natural ventilation works based on physical laws - due to the difference between warm air indoors and cold air outside (warm air is lighter) as well as pressure differences. Based on this, we came up with a simple design that is quite simple to make in a private house: in the center of the future home, most often in a load-bearing wall, a channel with a cross-section of about 130–140 mm is laid. Horizontal branches with a diameter of 100–100 mm are drawn from it into the rooms of the house.

Diagram and design of a system with a ventilation duct

Ventilation system design

Correct installation

Ventilation duct in the wall

To organize wiring they use. Then physics comes into play - warmer room air is under pressure and is drawn out due to traction force, colder street air enters the rooms through specially made channels, or naturally (doorways, open windows, etc.).

Placement of supply ducts in the wall

  1. The thickness of the walls of the exhaust duct must be at least one and a half bricks. Otherwise, the air in it will quickly cool and the reverse process will occur - the air will not be drawn out, but will flow into the rooms.
  2. The pipe at the outlet of the exhaust duct on the roof must be higher than the ridge. Otherwise, roof turbulence will interfere with the normal operation of the traction.

Bringing the system to the street

The main flow channel, as described above, is done in a standard way. But the influx of fresh air coming from the street can be organized in two ways - either by making flow channels in the window sills, or by making gaps in the windows. When choosing the second method, it is better to use metal-plastic windows, which have one competitive advantage over wooden ones - an increased level of sound insulation. These measures will be enough to ventilate the house to the required extent.

Fresh air is essential

If we talk about the advantage of using natural ventilation over forced ventilation (filters, radiators, etc.), you need to focus on two points - noise and air frequency.

Natural ventilation does not require additional equipment (at least, you can do without it). This means that there will be no extraneous noise in the house from operating fans and radiators.

Many people, when installing air purifying filters, forget that they require constant replacement. After prolonged use, the filter becomes dirty and the air passing through it is not cleaned, but is supplied with an additional dose of dust and other substances, making it even more polluted. There is no need to control air exchange during natural ventilation - especially since some of the large particles coming into the house from the street along with the air settle on the windowsills, where they can be easily removed with a damp cloth. And if we assume that wet cleaning is carried out in the house regularly, then this should not cause any additional inconvenience.

Video: how to arrange a natural hood

Don't forget about the air conditioning system. A properly organized tandem of natural, forced ventilation and air conditioning will make life in the house comfortable and safe for health.

Air circulation, when organizing a natural ventilation system, occurs due to the pressure difference in the ventilation shaft, due to which a draft arises that pushes the internal air out.

The efficiency of room ventilation with this type of ventilation device is influenced by the following factors:

  • The pressure value at the outer and inner sections of the ventilation pipe. The traction power increases with the height of the exhaust duct.
  • The temperature value outside the room and inside where the ventilation is located. Cooled air is heavier, so it pushes out the lighter air in the room below. As a result, the used air from inside rushes into the air duct.
  • Condensation level in the room. Vapors are lighter than cool air, and therefore, at a stable temperature, they rise and exit through the air ducts.

In addition to the listed main factors, the ability of the system to cope with maintaining a comfortable microclimate in the building is also influenced by readings of atmospheric pressure, humidity and temperature.

When the temperature inside and outside is similar, the draft deteriorates noticeably, and excessive heating of the air masses outside can lead to reverse draft. In such a situation, only a high-height ventilation duct can save the situation.

The installation of natural ventilation in a wooden house, in buildings built of brick or aerated concrete, and in multi-storey buildings can significantly save costs, while the efficiency of air exchange does not suffer from this.

Exhaust air ducts and shafts in all structures are installed exclusively in partitions or taken outside. If installed outdoors, you will have to spend money on additional pipe insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

In residential construction, natural ventilation devices are installed taking into account the requirements of SNIP and the principles of modern eco-design. Despite compliance with standards, such devices have both positive and negative properties.

The positive points include:

  • low cost of organizing natural ventilation;
  • infrequent routine maintenance to keep the system normal;
  • unlike forced systems, there is no noise;
  • installation of ventilation devices does not cause complications even for beginners;
  • it will take very little time to build a ventilation duct;
  • no additional costs are required to support the functionality of the system;
  • the service life of the system is not limited;
  • natural ventilation is not an object of increased danger and does not cause emergency situations;
  • These systems can be combined with forced ventilation.

Negative points include:

  • these systems are not able to regulate the speed of the exhaust flow: with high humidity in the room, this feature causes the appearance of fungus or mold;
  • poorly protected air supply devices do not retain dust, tiny insects and plant seeds, as a result of which more effort must be expended to maintain order in the room;
  • installation of protective nets disrupts normal air circulation and cannot be a solution to this problem;
  • in winter, when rooms are ventilated naturally, serious heat losses occur;
  • dependence of the efficiency of the hood on the street temperature and wind strength.

How to calculate system performance

  • Room area.
  • The rate of complete exchange of air in a room in one hour.
  • Standards for providing fresh air according to SANPIN per person (for normal living conditions, 30 m 3 / hour is taken into account).

The main condition for effective air circulation in a room is the equality of supply and exhaust volumes.

A step-by-step calculation algorithm will help determine the required volume of air for further selection of suitable equipment:

  1. To get the full volume of air in the house, you need to add up the volume of all rooms. Based on the standards of air consumption in various rooms of the home and the volume indicators of these rooms, the average rate of complete air exchange should be derived.
  2. Multiplying the resulting multiplicity by the total volume, we obtain the volume that is necessary for the intake and removal of air per hour.
  3. Based on this indicator, the number and power of devices providing inflow and exhaust parameters are calculated. When making calculations, you must be guided by the instructions and technical characteristics of the devices used and the type of exhaust duct.

This calculation does not take into account changes in traction power in different climatic conditions. To obtain more accurate data, you will have to make more complex calculations.

The organization of natural ventilation in a frame house differs from the equipment of buildings made of logs or timber. In log houses, the level of natural inflow is higher than in frame houses (due to uneven shrinkage and the presence of gaps). Accordingly, to normalize the inflow in frame buildings, it will be necessary to additionally use mechanical devices.

Natural ventilation standards

Modern SNIPs regulate ventilation standards for residential premises based on the value of total air exchange in a building, and is measured in the number of times or cubic meters per hour.

The standards for one-story residential buildings are:

  • permanent residential premises – 1 full exchange per hour;
  • kitchen – from 60 m 3 /hour (hood);
  • bathroom - at least 25 3 / hour (hood);
  • other premises – 0.2 full exchange per hour.

In addition to these standards, the value of outdoor air flow per person should be taken into account. This figure is 30 3 / hour.

Standards for natural ventilation in a multi-storey building take into account the presence of additional rooms:

  • laundry – 90 3 /hour;
  • gym – 80 3/hour;
  • dressing room - 0.2 full exchange per hour;
  • gas boiler houses - 1 full exchange per hour + 100 3 / hour.

There are special requirements and standards for ventilation equipment for basements, technical floors and attics.

Components of natural ventilation technology

Before making natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to determine the characteristics and number of supply and exhaust elements, and understand the method and location of the correct installation of these devices.

The natural ventilation system is constructed from vertical exhaust pipes (can be internal or external), devices that provide an influx of outside air and horizontal exchange air ducts.

For correct installation of devices, calculation of ventilation standards must be carried out for each room in the building.

Supply valves

To ensure the supply of outside air into the room, supply valves are used. The choice of design of supply equipment depends on the needs of the room. The number of devices and their productivity is determined based on calculations.

It is recommended to place devices that provide inflow at a height of 1800-2000 mm from the floor. When installing the equipment, it is necessary to provide for a slight inclination of the valve inside the wall. The outer end of the valve should be lower than the inner end. This arrangement will protect the room from precipitation getting inside.


Optimal position of the supply valve.

Exhaust ducts

Special hollow cinder blocks or plastic pipes are used as air ducts in individual buildings. To regulate the exhaust air removal process, the following devices are used:

  • Adjustable louvres, allowing you to reduce or increase the area of ​​the exhaust window;
  • Deflectors. This device, installed on the top of the ventilation duct, allows you to increase traction power;
  • Traction boosters. It has a more complex, umbrella design, but performs the same function as the deflector.

Deflector.

Ventilation ducts

Ventilation ducts are installed to remove used air from rooms with high humidity or special-purpose rooms. Several ventilation ducts are combined in one outlet shaft.

Ventilation ducts are located along the internal walls. When laying ducts, it is necessary to ensure the unhindered passage of building structures (floors, rafters) so as not to disturb the verticality of the air duct.

When installing natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands, it is advisable to take into account the features of a comfortable air exchange device for constructed and existing buildings.

On the design of natural ventilation in a house under construction

The basic principle of drawing up a scheme for natural ventilation in a private house during the construction process is the location of the shafts. They are installed exclusively in internal partitions to ensure that the main part of the pipe is kept warm. This principle allows you to obtain sufficient exhaust power, especially at subzero outside air temperatures.

It is recommended to use rectangular elements for the installation of exhaust shafts. They can significantly save the interior space of the house, but if there is free space, you can install round pipes that create a more intense flow.

Plastic water pipes are used as pipes for the air duct, because... When using corrugated products, weak noises occur, but are perceptible to the human ear.

When ducting ventilation pipes through an unheated attic floor onto the roof, it is recommended to take care of additional insulation of the air duct in this room.

When installing the exhaust pipe, it is recommended to maintain verticality; if this condition cannot be maintained, bypass slopes should be made with a deviation angle not exceeding 30 degrees. Each transition offset from the main vertical axis takes about 10% of the power.

You should pay close attention to the air duct connecting points. Inaccurate articulation of individual elements, foreign objects, and roughness complicate the process of efficient operation of the hood.

The higher the duct pipe, the more efficient the exhaust process. It is recommended to install the ventilation fungus removal 500 mm above the roof ridge.


Recommended height of ventilation ducts above the roof.

To modernize ventilation in an already built house

To increase traction power and provide additional protection against the penetration of insects and dust into the structure, it is advisable to install a deflector at the end of the air duct. This device helps increase power by 20%.


Deflector on the exhaust pipe.

In rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to install exhaust fans. This measure turns the natural system into a combined one, but at the same time the dependence on weather conditions disappears. In addition, the installed devices will help balance the humidity and temperature conditions in these places and prevent the materials from rotting.

When a building is equipped with plastic windows and ventilation is rarely carried out in frosty times, in order to save heat, the efficiency of air mass circulation drops sharply. In such a situation, it is recommended to equip windows with special ventilation valves, which make it possible to organize the flow of outside air, and at the same time arbitrarily regulate the flow.


Ventilation valve in the window.

Each room in country buildings or a country house has features that must be taken into account when installing ventilation devices.

In the bathroom

For a toilet and bathroom in a country building, it is necessary to provide the possibility of micro-ventilation through windows or doors.

In the bath

When installing ventilation in the bathhouse, it is necessary to place a supply duct at the location where the stove is installed. Street air penetrates from below, gradually displacing warm air to the ceiling, heating itself. The exhaust valve in the steam room is installed under the ceiling.

I open the valves when necessary to quickly dry the steam room or washing room.

In the boiler room

If a country house is heated with gas, it must have a separate room for placing equipment. A gas boiler is an object of increased danger, therefore the requirements for boiler hood equipment are quite serious.

The boiler room ventilation is mounted separately and does not cut into the common exhaust pipe; most often, an external pipe is used to get rid of smoke and gas.

Supply units are used to deliver outside air to boiler rooms. The weak point of the natural supply and exhaust system in boiler rooms is its dependence on wind power. In calm, windless weather, it is impossible to provide good traction.


Rotating ventilation ducts reduces efficiency by 10%.

In living rooms

To ensure effective air circulation between individual rooms in the house, it is necessary to install small holes or gaps between the door leaf and the floor at the bottom of the door leaves.

In the kitchen

When installing an exhaust ventilation grille above the stove, you need to place this device at a distance of 2 meters from the floor. This position of the hood allows you to effectively remove excess heat, soot and odors, preventing them from spreading throughout the room.

Video on the topic

When building your own home, everything needs to be thought through at the design stage. How deeply and correctly the communications in the house, including ventilation, are thought out depends on how comfortable the inhabitants will feel in it. If the moment of designing ventilation in the house is missed, then this work can be done later. But there will no longer be a guarantee that you will get exactly what you want. Yes, and doing alterations is quite a troublesome and costly task. If a ventilation system for a home is provided during the construction process, then it will be truly easy and comfortable to breathe in, and most importantly, to breathe environmentally friendly air. How to make ventilation in a private house? There are several options to choose from:

  • the most common natural ventilation;
  • progressive-exhaust, in other words, forced ventilation;
  • combination of two types of ventilation (mixed type).

You can select a ventilation system depending on the natural and environmental conditions of your home. If there are forests, lakes and the air is incredibly fresh, then, of course, there is nothing to think about, natural ventilation is installed. If the site for the house is located near some enterprises and its environmental cleanliness is in great doubt, then, naturally, we install forced ventilation with filters. A good owner, when starting any work, advocates first of all for an economical but high-quality result. Let's consider the factors that influence this result. To ensure effective ventilation, attention should be paid to:

  • cleanliness of the surrounding air;
  • building material that is used to construct a home.

Houses built from the following materials are suitable for installing natural hoods: timber, brick, adobe, gas block, foam block and expanded clay block. Forced ventilation should be planned for houses made of sandwich panels, frame models and expanded polystyrene concrete.

What is air circulation

Air circulation consists of:

  • air flow - air entering through open windows and doors;
  • air flow - air moves through the home;
  • air exhaust - air exiting through ventilation holes.

In order for unhindered air circulation to occur, it is necessary to properly install the doors and windows of the home. The doors should contain a small grille, or the installation should be carried out so that there is a gap of about two centimeters at the bottom. Without such holes, air circulation will not occur. The most unclaimed room is usually chosen for the air exhaust device.

Characteristics of types of ventilation

To fully determine the type of ventilation, let’s consider what their essence is:

Natural ventilation

Natural ventilation can be different, but there is one similarity - it occurs naturally.

  • Infiltration. This process of air ventilation occurs as a result of air entering through leaky parts of windows and doors. When using wooden doors that have high air throughput (10-20 kg/hour per square meter). This type of natural ventilation is quite suitable for a house with an area of ​​100 m2 to 140 m2.
  • Ventilation. This process involves the independent entry of air into windows and doorways. But its disadvantage is that heat is lost during the ventilation process. The time to completely fill a home with fresh air is from 30 minutes to 1.5 hours, taking into account the area of ​​the home. If you carry out ventilation in winter, then during the ventilation period the window frame and the adjacent parts of the room cool. This cooling results in fogging and condensation. If you ventilate by opening the windows all the way, the circulation of fresh air occurs in 8 minutes. And if you also open the door, then in 4 minutes.

    Important! But do not forget about drafts, they are very dangerous to health.

  • Ventilation process using exhaust valves for windows and walls. When replacing wooden windows with metal-plastic ones, the entry of air into the room completely stops. Given this fact, it is best to take a closer look at windows that will have ventilation holes. If it didn’t work out with the windows, then you can make a ventilation hole in the wall. It is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, which is mounted through the wall. It is covered with a special mesh outside and inside.

Important! It is best to install such ventilation holes immediately behind the battery so that the incoming air has time to warm up.

Forced ventilation

When wall valves cannot cope with the ventilation process, a forced ventilation system is installed. This system includes ventilation equipment: filters, air valves, a fan, devices for heating air and absorbing noise. It is also necessary to stock up on air ducts and various items that help in air distribution: grilles, diffusers. Don't forget about the air intake grille.

Exhaust ventilation

For installation of exhaust air purification, special channels are designed. They are usually made of brick, so you should think carefully about the design first. Sometimes such a system is installed in the form of additional shafts. They run along the walls of the house. So, exhaust ventilation can be performed in the following options:

  • build ventilation shafts in the wall;
  • make exhaust ducts in the image of shafts adjacent to the wall;
  • install ventilation shafts in the form of hanging ducts;
  • bring exhaust ducts to the roof.

Exhaust ventilation can be of natural or mechanical type. Natural type hoods are installed if the intake of clean air is small. In this case, the exit from the ventilation shafts is closed with a regular grille. Otherwise, install a mechanical hood. To do this, special ventilation devices are installed at the exits of ventilation shafts. They come in different types. Their large assortment allows you to choose a fan for every taste.

What types of air ducts are there?

When installing various types of ventilation hoods, appropriate air ducts are used. Most often these are air ducts with a round diametrical cross-section. Since the inside of such outlets is ideally smooth, air passes through it without encountering much resistance.

If air ducts with a rectangular cross-section are used, the resistance is higher, but it is easier to install. Often ventilation hood shafts have certain bends, then it is better to use flexible air ducts. They are used if it is necessary to connect two parts of air ducts.

At the connection points, the air resistance is much higher than at other places. Therefore, you should try to make such connections to a minimum.

Ventilation hoods with recovery

The recovery process is the heating of incoming air flows with air at the ventilation outlet. In other words, counter flows exchange heat. This operation allows you to significantly save on heating the street air. But in cold weather, the heat from the output flow is not enough to heat the incoming flow, then you have to use a heater. With such a ventilation system, the exhaust can only be forced. To install a recuperation system, a separate place should be allocated, for example, in the basement.

Steps to take when planning ventilation

Whatever the house and the type of ventilation, certain rules should be followed when planning installation:

  • First you need to correctly calculate the volume of air exchange. This is the determination of the amount of incoming air that meets all sanitary and environmental standards.
  • Calculation of the dimensions of the air duct section.
  • Choosing the right type of ventilation hood. To do this, you should take into account all the features discussed above.
  • Introducing a plan diagram of exhaust ducts into the design of a private house. If the circuit is drawn up correctly, it will fully ensure good operation.
  • Determining the location in the house for installing the ventilation system.
  • Selecting a location for air intake and outlet.
  • Direct installation of the ventilation system.

Correctly calculating ventilation

When calculating ventilation, attention should be paid to the main factors:

  • How many people will live in the house?
  • The actual dimensions of the house.
  • How much air can fit in the rooms of the house.

The operation of technical devices, electricity, and hob must be taken into account. All this absorbs oxygen. We also pay attention to which rooms require the cleanest air. Various methods can be used for these calculations. Some of them require the presence of professionals to compile tables and diagrams. You can refer to building codes, SNiPAs, GOSTs, etc. In everyday construction, calculations are most often performed based on the area of ​​the house, sanitary standards and multiplicity.

  • The easiest way to calculate is by taking into account the area. This method is used for the size of air exchange in a home. According to the standards, three cubic meters of incoming air should be supplied per square meter per hour. The calculation process follows the formula: you should multiply the area of ​​the house by the amount of air according to the norm.
  • We calculate using the air exchange rate. This calculation is a little more complicated and uses several metrics. This calculation is usually performed with the help of a specialist. Multiplicity is a value that shows how many times in one hour the air is completely replaced. Standards for this value vary for certain types of premises.
  • Calculation taking into account sanitary standards. In this case, calculations are carried out taking into account the norm of the amount of air per person living in the room. The standards are different for each room (for the bedroom, for the kitchen, for the dining room, etc.). As a result, all the data standards are added up and the total volume of air intake is obtained.​

We install an exhaust system in the house

We begin installation with the main ventilation shaft. The best place to place it is a wall that runs through the center of the house. With this placement, it is easier to connect pipes that act as an air duct from each living room of the house. When planning and installing hoods, horizontal bends should be made as little as possible, as this weakens the draft. As a result, ventilation efficiency is significantly reduced. All branches are ultimately connected to a common pipe, which provides air outlet. It is usually located on the roof.

We provide typical hood dimensions:

  • The rectangular cross-section of the exhaust shaft in the wall is 13x13 cm.
  • The width of the wall that contains the exhaust shaft is 38 cm.
  • The exhaust shaft for a heating boiler or fireplace is 13x26 cm.
  • The diameter of the pipes used for ventilation is 10-12 cm.
  • The height of the exhaust pipe on the roof should be higher than the level of the ridge, and the thickness of its walls should be at least two and a half bricks.

If the wall is made thinner, the air at the outlet will cool very quickly and return back. And if there is not enough height, the traction process will be disrupted.

In addition, you should definitely worry about air flow. If doors and windows are tightly closed and air flow cannot occur, the ventilation system will not be able to operate efficiently. Therefore, you should make sure that there is a gap of about two centimeters wide between the doors and the floor.

So, to ensure proper operation of the ventilation system, many nuances should be taken into account and special attention should be paid to its layout. Only in this case can we ensure fresh air in the house and comfortable living in it.














The dry lines of the scientific definition say that ventilation of a private house is a process of specially organized air exchange (from the Latin ventilatio - ventilation) in the residential and utility rooms of the building, in order to maintain the required sanitary and hygienic parameters of the air environment (air composition, its purity, temperature, humidity ). Ventilation is also called a set of technical means and measures that ensure controlled air circulation in a separate room and throughout the building.

The result of all these words is the same - in order to have fresh air in the house, it is necessary to install additional equipment, and what exactly - we asked the specialists of ATM Climate, a company that occupies one of the leading positions in the climate equipment market, to tell us.

General diagram of air exchange in the house Source socialmec.com

Proper arrangement of ventilation, both in apartment buildings and in private buildings, is the job of specialists, since here you will need to make a large number of calculations. At the same time, it would not hurt the owners of private houses to learn the basic principles of how ventilation works - this will help them at least in general terms understand what work will need to be done and how much it will cost.

Why is ventilation needed in a private house?

Air quality must fully ensure the comfortable state of the human body. This is unanimously stated by GOSTs and SNiPs, which regulate the microclimate parameters in premises. The most important factors of a comfortable microclimate include the following indicators of the air environment:

    cleanliness and degree of freshness of the air;

    air temperature and humidity.

To ensure that these indicators always remain within acceptable limits, a ventilation system is installed in a private house, the scheme of which is individually calculated for each individual case.

Before ventilation there are two main goals:

    removal of air with a high content of dust and carbon dioxide into the external environment;

    an influx of clean, oxygen-rich air from the street.

8 reasons to install ventilation Source technosip.ru

Video description

To see more clearly about air-to-air heating or air heating, watch the video:

Ventilation requirements - air flow rates

The basic indicators for designing a ventilation system are the incoming air flow rates and air exchange rates provided for by the relevant SNiPs:

On a note! The frequency of air exchange or ventilation is the ratio of the volume of air entering during one hour to the volume of the room. The multiplicity parameter characterizes the hourly number of air updates.
  • The ventilation system must provide air supply in an amount no less than that required for comfortable stay of people in the room. For one person this is 30 m³/hour if the area of ​​the room is more than 20 m² or 3 m³/hour for each square meter if the area allocated for one person is less than 20 m².
  • For residential and associated premises with certain functionality, air flow is determined by the following standards:
    • 1. A minimum of 3 m³/hour must flow into the living room for each square meter of area.
    • 2. To the bathroom and toilet – 25 m³/hour.
    • 3. In a combined bathroom - over 50 m³/hour.
    • 4. For the kitchen - depending on the type of stove and the number of burners: electric and gas two-burner - 60 m³/hour; gas four-burner – 90 m³/hour.

A hood over a gas stove as one of the ventilation options in the kitchen in a private home Source deskgram.net

  • The air exchange rate of a private house should be within the following limits:
    • 1. at least one volume per hour if there are always people in the room;
    • 2. at least one volume every 5 hours (0.2 volume/hour) for technical rooms.
Note! The given standards are calculated for indoor air temperature +18 °C and outdoor air temperature +5 °C.

Methods for calculating ventilation parameters

Accurate calculation of ventilation in a private home is performed using specialized software, to work with which you must at least know in what order and what data to use. Therefore, in order to do it once and wisely, you need to start with the development of an individual ventilation project for a private house.

But along with such calculations, there are methods of simple calculations that will make it possible to approximately estimate the necessary parameters.

    According to consumption standards. According to SNiP, air consumption by one person (Vnorm) is approximately 60 m³/hour. This means that to calculate ventilation performance, the formula V=Vnorm*N is used, where N is the number of permanent residents of the house.

    But the problem with this approach is that residents may be in different rooms or congregate in one. For this reason, this approach is used only for air heating (air climate systems) with air circulation inside the house and with the addition of fresh air in the specified quantities.

    According to the frequency of air renewal (calculation by area). SNiP standards require at least one hourly air renewal. If, in this case, for the comfortable well-being of people in the room, one-time air circulation is not enough, use the formula V=K*S*H, where K is the air exchange rate, S is the total area of ​​a private house, H is the height of the ceilings. The multiplicity index varies from 1 to 3.

    This approach is the most common, but is associated with a significantly larger volume of air supplied to and removed from the house than in the previous case.

SNiP requirements for air exchange rates in the table:

Source vodakanazer.ru

Natural and forced ventilation

All ventilation systems are divided into two main types:

    Natural(convective or natural) ventilation. The circulation of air masses here occurs in the same way as in nature - under the influence of draft, which arises due to the difference in temperature, and therefore air pressure in the room and outside the house;

    Artificial(forced) air exchange system, which is carried out by air blowers such as fans or compressors.

Natural ventilation - operating principles and features

The operating principle of natural ventilation is convection - the movement of warm air currents to the upper part of the room and the replacement of departed air masses with cold street air that flows from below. In addition to the temperature difference, the speed of air circulation here is also affected by the wind speed.

Previously, leaks in windows and doors were used to allow air to enter the home. However, modern plastic windows do not have such micro-slits and ventilation valves have to be purposefully installed in the frame or walls. In turn, the “exhaust” air leaves the house through exhaust ducts located in the kitchen, toilet and other rooms.

The principle of operation of convection (natural) ventilation Source bolts-master.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer interior redevelopment services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

The following are noted for natural air exchange: advantages:

    economical, since no additional equipment is required to move air flows;

    energy independence;

    trouble-free operation;

    noiselessness.

The disadvantages include:

    low intensity of air exchange, not always able to fully combat the accumulation of unpleasant odors or the formation of condensation;

    poor circulation efficiency due to the dependence of draft on the height of the building and time of year;

    almost complete impossibility of regulating the intensity of air exchange (you can use dampers, but they can only reduce draft, which means they do not always help);

    in summer there is almost no air movement, since the temperatures inside and outside the house are almost equal;

    a large outflow of heat to the street, which significantly increases heating costs;

It is important! In winter, the traction force in the air channels increases, as the temperature difference between inside and outside becomes significant. This leads to an increase in heat loss up to 40% of the total heat loss of the entire house!

    When installing sealed double-glazed windows, the natural flow of air practically stops.

    the need to additionally install special supply valves in windows or external walls.

Ventilation valves - outside and inside the room Source ventazbuka.ru

Features of artificial ventilation

The circulation of air masses in the artificial ventilation system is carried out forcibly due to the operation of electromechanical equipment. Fresh air from the street enters the ventilation unit through the air intake, which distributes the air throughout the rooms of the residential building. Exhaust air is forcibly sucked out of the premises and discharged into the street through exhaust air ducts.

Forced circulation ventilation equipment includes the following elements:

  • fan;
  • air purification filter;
  • silencer;
  • air heater/heater;
  • air valve.

Even in modern systems, a recuperator can be added to the listed equipment - a device that, by removing heat from the air exhausted to the outside, heats the incoming air.

When installing a ventilation network you will need:

  • air vents;
  • air intake grilles, diffusers, anemostats.

Source restate.ru

Advantages of artificial ventilation:

  • autonomous operation, independent of environmental conditions (temperature and pressure, building height);
  • the ability to bring the parameters of the air supplied to the house to the required values ​​to create a comfortable microclimate (dust removal, heating/cooling, humidification/dehumidification).

Disadvantages of forced ventilation:

  • energy dependence of technical means and significant energy costs for heating a large volume of supply air, which provides the necessary air exchange rate, especially in winter;
  • significant costs for purchasing equipment;
  • the need for regular maintenance.

Mixed ventilation type

If there is no need to install forced ventilation in all rooms of the house, then you can consider the option of mixed ventilation. This is what is commonly called the combined use of natural circulation with the installation of mechanical hoods and fans. Typically, forced ventilation is used in the kitchen or bathrooms, and air exchange in other rooms occurs naturally.

Mixed ventilation system Source linternaute.fr

Ventilation operating diagrams

In the practice of arranging ventilation devices, depending on the functions performed, four types of ventilation:

    Forced ventilation in a private house - supplies air from the street to the room. When double-glazed windows are installed in the house, the “micro-ventilation” mode or special valves are used.

    But the intensity of air supply depends on weather conditions and is not always able to provide a comfortable microclimate. For artificial ventilation, additional ventilation ducts and devices are installed that purify the street air and heat it to room temperature using an electric or water heater.

What does supply ventilation look like schematically in a private house? Source bir.bilagyteco.ru.net

    Exhaust ventilation in a private house - removes “exhaust” air from the house to the street. If a high intensity of air exchange is not needed, then use natural ventilation through ready-made ventilation ducts.

    But due to the obvious shortcomings of natural ventilation, forced hoods with exhaust fans are more often installed. They are installed both in ventilation ducts and in the ceiling space.

Operating principle of supply and exhaust ventilation Source mojdominfo.ru

    Supply and exhaust ventilation in the house - in this case, two parallel multidirectional air flows are organized. The first is the supply of oxygen-saturated air into the room, and the second is the removal of “exhaust” air outside.

    Air climate system(air heating) in the house - in this case, internal air circulation is arranged inside the house with supply air mixed into it and exhaust air removed from bathrooms and technical rooms.

    The advantage of such a system is that significantly less fresh air is needed for the supply (60 m³/h per resident) and, accordingly, less air is removed through the hood together, which means less heat leaves the house in winter.

    In addition, it is easy to organize heating or cooling of the air circulating in the house, cleaning and humidifying it, i.e. You can do without a traditional hydronic split heating and air conditioning system. For this reason, such a comprehensive solution is often used in smart homes.

Source restate.ru

Recuperator

When arranging supply and exhaust ventilation in private homes, significant savings come from the use of systems with heated supply air, called “supply and exhaust ventilation with recovery.”

Recuperators are called air handling units equipped with an internal heat exchanger. Passing through the recuperator, air flows heated in the room and discharged outside heat the heat exchanger. Cold air from the street passes through the same heat exchanger and, accordingly, heats up before entering the room.

Scheme of operation of ventilation with recuperation Source airclimat.ru

It is important! Including a recuperator in the supply and exhaust system allows you to save up to 70-90% of the heat of the exhausted room air.

Phases of operation of the recuperator in the supply and exhaust ventilation mode in the house Source moydomik.net

Features of ventilation of premises of a private house

Any of the premises of a private house, residential and technical, need high-quality air exchange that corresponds to the functional purpose of the room. When arranging the ventilation system of a house, it is necessary to take these features into account.

Ventilation of the underground space

The underground floors of private buildings are characterized by the presence of damp, unventilated areas, which, in conditions of high levels of dampness, lack of sunlight and musty air, are a favorite place for the spread of various fungi. Rapidly growing colonies of microorganisms have a destructive effect on wood, concrete and metal structures.

To ventilate the subfloor of a private wooden house, ventilated openings are arranged in the basement along the entire perimeter of the foundation, creating natural circulation of air masses under the floor. The dimensions of basement ventilation openings for rectangular openings must be at least 100 mm, and for round ones - from 120 mm. The height of the holes is within 300 mm from the ground surface.

Example of underground (cellar) ventilation Source givewhereyoulivehamptons.org

If natural ventilation cannot cope with dampness and mustiness, mechanical means of forced circulation are brought to its aid - fan units located on opposite sides. The operating mode of the fans is determined in accordance with the task. They can work for half an hour several times a day or be turned on for a longer period.

Ventilation of upper floors

When using natural ventilation in two or three-story private houses, the biggest problem is the flights of stairs, which can be considered as large ventilation ducts. The already “exhausted” air from the first floor rises up the stairs, which means that in the building there will be a difference in temperature and humidity levels between the lower and upper floors.

Designers and builders solve this problem by blocking the access of air from the stairs to the floors, or by isolating each room separately. But the second option is practically not used due to its complexity, because in fact, here you will have to make separate ventilation in each room separately.

Video description

For a clear overview of ventilation in a private home, watch the video:

Typically, doors from stairwells to floors must be closed for natural ventilation to function properly.

In the attic it is always necessary to install forced ventilation, since the standard natural draft is not provided due to the low height of the ventilation ducts.

Kitchen ventilation

To ventilate the kitchen, builders of a private house must provide a separate ventilation duct into which the exhaust air flow will be sucked.

The channel is mounted from galvanized steel sheets or other stainless materials. The surface of the channel should be smooth so that greasy fumes from the kitchen and soot from the stove do not settle on it. The inlet and outlet openings of the channel are protected by grilles.

As in the whole house, air circulation in the kitchen is carried out by natural and forced methods. Those. vents and windows are opened, or a hood is purchased. The latter option is clearly preferable, since the inability of natural ventilation to cope with the odors that appear during cooking is beyond doubt.

Video description

An example of combining natural ventilation with a hood in the kitchen in the video:

Since a kitchen stove is a constant source of fairly strong odors, the area above the stove needs ventilation most of all, and it is above it that a natural ventilation outlet channel or an electromechanical hood is placed.

When installing ventilation in the gas stove area, first of all, it is necessary to compare the number of burners with the volume of kitchen air space. The standards require:

    for a kitchen space with a volume of more than 8 m³, it is allowed to install a stove with two burners;

    for a kitchen with a volume of 12 cubic meters - no more than three burners;

    for a kitchen of 15 cubic meters - 4 burners.

If this standard is observed, for high-quality air exchange in the kitchen with a gas stove, an air exchange rate of 140 m³/hour is sufficient, and with an electric stove – 110 m³/hour.

Bath ventilation

The air in the bathhouse has its own specific specifics - during bathing procedures the humidity reaches 100%, and when the bathhouse is not in use, everything depends on the quality of air exchange in the room. To comprehensively solve these issues, mixed ventilation is used.

An example of air movement in a bathhouse Source elektroservis-rostov.ru

But since the mechanical part is needed only during the operation of the bathhouse, then, in fact, the most effective natural ventilation is made and fans are added to it. Thus, during operation, the power of the ventilated installation allows you to comfortably steam in the bathhouse, and during its downtime, natural ventilation ventilates the room.

Technically, this is expressed in the arrangement of one or two supply channels and an outlet on which a fan is installed (preferably with an adjustable number of blade revolutions).

It is important! When arranging a bathhouse, one should not forget about floor ventilation. To do this, the floor covering is assembled from boards with a gap of 5 mm between them.

Often, owners of private houses are lenient when it comes to ventilation requirements for their own home, especially if they may entail additional costs. Here are some misconceptions regarding the use of technical means in residential premises.

    Installing an air conditioner will solve all ventilation problems.

The air conditioner is able to change air parameters, cool or heat the air, and dry it. But it does not create an air cycle. In a house with a working air conditioner, a comfortable temperature will be established, but after a couple of hours the body will feel a lack of oxygen and an excess of carbon dioxide.

Ventilation is always installed together with air conditioners. Source anantaircon.podbean.com

    If you install an exhaust fan, this will be enough for good ventilation of the house..

If plastic sealed double-glazed windows and doors are installed, there is no air flow, which means there will be no exhaust/removal of air masses. After a few minutes of operation of the hood, a pressure will be established in the room that simply will not push air to the fan blades.

    Periodic ventilation or an open window for micro-ventilation will solve all problems.

The issue of ventilation will not be fully resolved, since there remain fairly large periods of time during which it will not be possible to ventilate the house, for example, at night. If in the summer this is a solvable issue, then micro-ventilation in the winter is fraught with drafts that will quickly cool the room, preventing it from being ventilated.

Video description

A few more arguments in favor of installing a high-quality ventilation system in a private home are on video:

Conclusion

Despite the availability of information, the average consumer still has a strong prejudice that home ventilation equipment consists of huge air ducts hidden behind suspended ceilings, whirring fans and, in general, it will be very expensive.

To change this opinion, it is enough to see (and hear) the operation of a properly organized ventilation system once. The truth here is that the problem is that you won’t hear or feel anything, because the absence of extraneous odors and sounds is a sign of high-quality operation of the equipment.

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How to make a hood in a private house with your own hands?

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In order for a private house to receive an influx of fresh air, as well as remove already polluted air, it is necessary to install a ventilation system - an exhaust hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if preliminary calculations are made that take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.


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Natural ventilation

At the design stage of a house, a natural ventilation scheme must be drawn up. The principle of its operation is to ventilate the house due to the natural circulation of the air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the influx of fresh air and the exhaust of already humid air must be carried out through different rooms. Typically, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outlet space is called wet.


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You can ventilate your house in four ways:

  • channel, when the house is equipped with vertically located channels.
  • ductless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
  • permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant air flow, which enters through air ducts.
  • periodic, when “new” air enters at certain intervals.

To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are installed on the exhaust ducts, which can operate either continuously or at set times. Accordingly, such equipment requires a connection to the power supply network.

Advantages

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It does not require the installation of expensive equipment, and system breakdowns are automatically eliminated. But even with fans installed on the exhaust ducts, the circulation system naturally consumes electricity in small quantities. Consequently, money is saved. Another advantage of the system is its compatibility with other types of air exchange.

Flaws

This type of ventilation in a wooden house directly depends on weather conditions, which directly affects the ventilation of the building. As a rule, insufficient supply of fresh air manifests itself in the form of fungus, as well as the accumulation of toxic substances that can come from building materials. Thus, it, not combined with other systems, will not always be able to ensure proper air exchange in the house.

Forced exhaust

Since the dependence of natural ventilation on external climatic conditions does not allow the premises to be fully ventilated, the installation of additional equipment is necessary to ensure air circulation in a private home. Air exchange carried out using special installed devices, as well as components for them, is called forced ventilation.


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According to the principle of operation, it is divided into:

  • supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Another variation of this method is the installation of recycling equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through filters, is partially mixed with street air, and then, already purified, is returned to the room;
  • supply air with the possibility of heating. To operate the system according to this principle, a recuperator is required, which uses exhaust but already heated air;
  • supply air with cooling. Air conditioning is required here;
  • supply and exhaust. The most common system for private homes. The circulation of air masses is ensured by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. This air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.

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However, the operation of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up the house construction plan. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the supply of fresh air to the premises and the removal of already used air to the street.

The compulsory system includes the following elements and equipment:

  • grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
  • filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
  • air valves that regulate the flow of air supplied to the house. In winter, protect the system from icy gusts of wind;
  • fans used to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
  • sound absorbers ensuring silent operation of the system;
  • heaters that heat the incoming air;
  • ventilation ducts that allow air to move.


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How to properly install a hood in a kitchen in a private home

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Preparatory work for installing a hood in the kitchen begins with measurements of the room (the installation was discussed in more detail in, and how to choose the right one - in). After all, the obtained values ​​will affect the choice of device model.

First of all, the cubic volume of the room is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of the kitchen. The result is then multiplied by a factor of ten. This value determines the number of air changes per hour established by current regulations. The result obtained will be the minimum power required for the measured kitchen.

Since all exhaust devices require electricity, the installation locations of the devices are equipped with sockets.

Preparing a niche for a kitchen hood is also an important factor. After all, a centralized gas pipe can be installed in such a way that in the future it will interfere with the installation of equipment on the wall. The way out of the situation is to install brackets that will allow you to leave the necessary space between the wall and the hood. In addition, the wall should not have obvious defects and should be strong enough to support the kitchen exhaust system.

To install the equipment you will need:

  • building level;
  • roulette;
  • perforator;
  • Screwdriver Set;
  • jigsaw;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • silicone sealant.


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Manufacturers of hoods provide consumers with three main modifications of devices:

  • hanging;
  • built-in;
  • dome or fireplace.

Also, according to the method of air purification, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models that operate in recirculation mode.

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When the device operates in recirculation mode, the hood does not emit pollution into the street, but passes air through the filter and returns it back into the room.

Since wall-hung models operate in recirculation mode (), they are more suitable for small kitchens. This is explained by the fact that conventional filtration is not able to cope with air purification in large rooms.

Hanging hoods equipped with filters that need to be changed periodically. The frequency of replacements is indicated in the technical documentation of the device.

Among the positive qualities of the devices are their low price, the ability to be attached to a kitchen cabinet, and the lack of additional components, since hanging equipment does not require an air exhaust system.

Built-in technology practically hidden from view and serves as an air supply. The body of such a device is mounted directly into the kitchen cabinet, and only the air intake remains outside, which basically has a retractable panel.

The air duct of a built-in exhaust device can be led outside either through the ventilation system already existing in the house or through a wall or roof.

The most expensive model range, but at the same time the most powerful, is considered to be the fireplace or dome class. Hoods in this series not only provide stable air purification, but also become pronounced elements of room design. In addition to factory production, dome models can be individually designed.

Installing a kitchen hood over a gas stove

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How to properly make a kitchen hood over a stove with your own hands in a private home depends on the shape and size of the device. At the same time, the installation of an electrical appliance is also influenced by the location and dimensions of the kitchen unit modules.

There are three installation options:

  • built-in;
  • with fastening to the bottom of the cabinet;
  • with wall mounting.

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To install the device in a cabinet, the lower shelf of the kitchen module must first be removed. Subsequently, it may either not be installed at all, or a hole is made in it using a jigsaw that is suitable in size with a hood.

On the shelf located in the middle of the cabinet, holes are made for the electrical cable and air duct. Then the body of the device is applied to the shelf to be fixed and the fastening points are marked with a pencil. Next, the hood is attached using self-tapping screws.

The device mounted under a kitchen cabinet differs from the built-in version only in that the hood body remains outside. If desired, it is covered with a false panel or any other finishing material using double-sided tape or glue.

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When attaching the hood to the wall, first of all, mark the mounting points through the rear panel of the device. Holes are drilled along the marks, dowels at least 5 cm long are inserted into them. Then self-tapping screws are screwed into the two upper holes so that the hood can be hung freely on them. After checking the reliability of the structure, without removing the device, screw in the remaining screws and tighten the top ones.

Duct connection

Before connecting the air duct to the hood, you need to decide on the choice of material. There are two types of pipes for removing exhaust air from the room (more details):

  • corrugated, which are made of aluminum. Although the installation of this type of pipe does not require additional adapters, the sound insulation properties of corrugated products are very low. However, noise during operation of the hood can be reduced by tensioning the pipe.
  • plastic, having a cross-section both rectangular and round. In the latter, much less contaminants accumulate during operation, and the resistance is lower than in rectangular pipes. To install this class you will need L-shaped adapters.

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But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the air duct must coincide with the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the kitchen hood will work in increased mode, which will lead to rapid engine failure.

The installed air duct should not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. To do this, a special grille is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the device has finished operating. This mode of operation allows the natural air circulation system to operate fully.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

The task of installed ventilation in the bathroom is to clean the room from various odors and eliminate high humidity.

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Since the operation of a natural hood is completely dependent on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the natural air circulation system has its advantages, which include simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in a natural hood predicts long and uninterrupted operation.

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Ventilation ducts for the bathroom are selected with a diameter of at least 50 cubic meters per hour, and for the toilet an air duct with a width of 30 cubic meters per hour is suitable. The ability to remove odors and moist air from the bathroom is provided by a forced ventilation system. Its operation is carried out using installed fans, which can be with bearings or bushings. Devices with bushings are much cheaper than fans with bearings.

Forced exhaust fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Device manufacturers also offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system begins to operate when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room. This method of ventilation is quite simple in its organization, but like the entire natural ventilation system, it is directly dependent on weather conditions.

A more effective method is a system that uses two pipes, 8–15 cm wide. In this case, the supply channel is mounted so that the lower part of the pipe is located at a height of 20–40 cm from the floor. The upper end should be fixed on the street so that the gap to the ground is 40–60 cm.

The lower end of the exhaust pipe is mounted directly under the ceiling, and the outer part is led through the ceilings to the roof and fixed 30–60 cm from it.

How to make a duct box

Some air duct models do not fit into the overall design of the room. The way out of this situation is to hide the channel in a special box.


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Depending on the material used, decorative designs are:

  • plastic;
  • wooden;
  • steel;
  • made of MDF, chipboard or plasterboard.

However, when installing the box, it is taken into account that it will constantly be exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that arise during cooking. It follows that the structure must be washed and cleaned well. Only in this case will the decorative box fit into the overall design of the room.

Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through a wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands

Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And to do this, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will operate.

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