Correct installation of sockets and switches. How to fix a socket if it falls out of the wall

The socket is the most important element of the power supply in the house, allowing you to supply electricity to household appliances and serve private purposes. Electrical sockets are part of the general electrical network, so their independent installation requires compliance with safety rules and regulatory rules for the placement of sockets in residential premises. At first glance, it seems that all sockets are the same. but in fact, there are a large number of varieties of sockets to service various devices. Installation is carried out in two ways: internal and external. Which method and type of socket to install depends on personal requirements, but, in principle, you can install any socket with your own hands if you know the exact installation diagram and general installation recommendations.

Classification of sockets

Depending on the characteristics, sockets are classified into several categories:

• by installation method (hidden and open);
• by the method of connecting electrical wiring (screws and terminals);
• by design features;
• by voltage protection level (IP20 to IP68).

Electrical appliances have different connectors, so you need to select the type of outlet based on your service requirements. For this purpose, you can consult with a specialist or independently select the type of socket according to the type of connector. The choice of connector is fundamental for installing an outlet in the house. Many countries put forward their own requirements for socket connector standards, but most devices are characterized by the European standard, type C, or type F - Euro socket with grounding. Depending on the type of housing, sockets can be surface-mounted (external) or recessed (internal). External ones are mounted exclusively on the wall, while hidden ones can be installed anywhere. The choice of outlet depends, first of all, on personal preferences and system installation capabilities. An important criterion is safety, both in terms of maintenance and accessibility of the outlet for children. All these nuances should be taken into account before installing the outlet yourself.

Requirements for installing sockets

The correct installation of electrical outlets in an apartment is regulated by safety and aesthetic standards, and their location can be chosen at your discretion. The recommended installation distance for sockets is 40 cm from the floor, but the standard placement is a height of 1 m. When installing sockets in the bathroom or kitchen. A mandatory requirement is to maintain a distance of 60 cm from the water source, so it is advisable to install sockets on the opposite wall. To install sockets in an apartment where there are small children, you should follow the principle of maximum inaccessibility and use sockets that have a protective cover to provide additional safety. The main rule. What should be remembered when installing sockets is to carry out all installation work when the power supply is de-energized.

Socket design

Before you begin installing the outlet, you need to know what elements it consists of. Standard sockets consist of 3 parts:

• front panel;
• wiring;
• basics.

The faceplate protects and hides the inside of the outlet. Standard panels are white plastic housings that are made of fire-resistant plastic. Conductive contacts are contacts through which current flows. They come in different power and voltage. The base or block is the structure on which the contacts and the front panel are held. Modern sockets have additional grounding to ensure safe operation.

Tools

Installing sockets in an apartment with your own hands requires the necessary tools:

• screwdrivers with an indicator to determine the de-energized network;
• screwdrivers for fastening (straight or Phillips);
• drill, hammer drill, pliers and hammer;
• dowels with self-tapping screws for fastening the box;
• socket boxes;
• level;
• sockets

The number of tools required may be greater, depending on whether you are doing the initial installation of electrical outlets yourself or repairing them.

Choosing a location for installation

If you want to install an outlet in a new location, then first of all you will need to install an electrical network. To do this, you should lay 2 wires, that is, zero and phase, or 3 wires: phase, zero, ground, respectively. To ensure greater safety, it is recommended to run 3 wires when installing a new outlet. How to distinguish which wire performs which function? They differ in color: white or brown - phase, blue or black - zero, yellow - ground. The standard location of sockets is 1 m from the floor, in a nursery - 1.5 m. If you need to connect several devices to the network, it is advisable to install a block of sockets that are connected in turn with one cable. Please note that the contacts must be made from the top, not from the side. This socket installation scheme is safer.

How to install a socket with your own hands?

There is a certain algorithm of actions on how to correctly install a socket with your own hands. Overall, installing an outlet is a simple process. The standard scheme includes the following procedure:

• turn off the power supply in the panel or remove the plugs;
• check the absence of voltage with an indicator;
• unscrew the cover, release the mounting tabs and remove the wires;
• install a new socket box in place of the old one;
• adjust the size of the wires, connect them to the working part;
• install the outer cover;
• check serviceability by turning on the power supply.

This diagram also allows you to connect a grounded outlet, you just need to know how to connect the wires. Roughly speaking, the connection should look like this: phase is on the left, zero is on the right, and ground is in the center. Before connecting, the wires must be tightened and secured with screw terminals.

How to install an electrical outlet with hidden wiring?

Installing an outlet with hidden wiring is a simple way to install an electrical outlet if the walls are already lined with decorative panels or finished with plasterboard. In order to bring the wires out, you need to use an electric drill and make a hole in the wall. Before starting work, you need to check whether the wiring is de-energized or not using an indicator. Before making a hole, you need to make preliminary markings on the wall and carefully cut out a recess for the socket box. When installing a socket box in a concrete wall, no additional reinforcement is required; just install a plastic dowel and attach the box with a self-tapping screw, screwing it in until it stops. To install a socket box in drywall, it is necessary to use appropriate boxes.

After installing the box, you need to connect the wires. First, you need to carefully remove the insulating material approximately 5-7 mm from the end of the wires and begin connecting them. Then you need to secure the contacts in the housing using 5 screws: 2 - for spreading the legs on the side, 1 - for grounding in the center, 1 - for the phase on the right and 1 - for the zero on the left. Depending on the type of connection, the wires can be connected using screw terminals with a terminal block or clamps with spring-loaded plates. The second type of connection is typical for imported sockets.

Then you need to insert the box into the socket box, using spacer screws, screwing them in one on each side of the socket. Carefully position the housing in the center so that the socket is level after fixing. Spread the tabs with the side screws to secure the box. It is better to give preference to designs with serrated legs. They better fix the structure in the wall and do not become loose during operation.

The final stage is the installation of the decorative casing. Using the central screw, you need to screw the housing all the way to hide it in the wall. The front panel is then attached and checked for stability. When the socket is installed, you need to check its serviceability. To do this, turn on the electricity and turn on any electrical appliance. If there is no contact, you will have to unscrew everything back and check the reliability and correctness of the contacts. Be sure to ensure that the wires are tightened tightly, as this may cause a short circuit and melt the case.

How to install an electrical outlet with exposed wiring?

Sockets with open wiring are the same electrical sockets as the hidden type, only the connection wires are not hidden in the wall, but, on the contrary, are placed outside. This type is easier to install and make. Their use is advisable when it is not possible to conduct hidden wiring, for example, with wooden wall cladding. Since bare wires do not look very aesthetically pleasing, they are trimmed with decorative channels made of plastic, mostly white.

To install an outlet with exposed wiring, you must perform the following steps:

• turn off the electricity and check the absence of voltage with an indicator;
• make markings and use an electric drill to cut a hole in the wall for dowels;
• carefully insert the plastic dowel into the hole, you can use a hammer;
• fasten the dowels and insert the socket box using self-tapping screws;
• attach the contacts and tighten them with screws;
• attach a decorative part;
• check the serviceability of the socket.

When installing the socket in wooden walls, it is necessary to use paronite, which is placed between the back cover and the wall to prevent ignition. If the outlet does not work or there is an unusual sound/smell, you must turn off the power and recheck the connections of all contacts. Please ensure that the insulation is done correctly. Do not use the socket if it is faulty!

Repairing sockets in an apartment with your own hands

If there is a need to repair the outlet, then this is even much easier to do than installing it. It is recommended to inspect outlets in residential buildings at least once every 1-2 years, since electrical supply elements are also subject to wear. If you need to repair sockets in your apartment yourself, you can do it as follows:

• Turn off the electricity in the house and check the voltage at the outlet;
• remove the decorative panel;
• unscrew the spacer screws and remove the mounting box;
• disconnect the wires and release them from the terminal clamps;
• replace the mounting box with a new one, update the wires;
• secure the contacts and insert the mounting box back;
• Attach the decorative panel in place and check the serviceability of the socket.

If you need to make several sockets, you will have to extend the phase wire to create an electrical circuit. If there is a need to move the outlet, then you need to use the wiring extension method. To do this, you need to remove the insulation and twist the exposed wires, and then solder them a little. Then you should re-fasten the insulation and install the overhead socket.

In practice, installing sockets is a fairly simple and straightforward process that anyone can do. But, it is important to remember that all installation work is carried out only when the network is de-energized. Be sure to check the presence of voltage with an indicator before contacting de-energized live parts, as voltage may suddenly appear in them. Do not touch exposed wires with bare hands, but use special tools for this purpose. If you are not confident in your own strength, then in order to avoid damage or fire to the installed outlet, seek help from a specialist. How to make the installation correctly and what it should look like to install sockets in an apartment with your own hands (video instructions):

Installing sockets in concrete is a responsible task that requires attentiveness, compliance with safety precautions and certain skills.

The work process consists of several stages and includes marking the surface, making grooves, laying wires, installing socket boxes, fittings and finishing work.

Preparatory work

Before starting installation work, you need to prepare tools and materials. You should decide on the areas where the sockets will be installed. It is necessary to draw a diagram showing the installation locations of sockets, switches and wire lines.

Note! In residential premises, it is customary to install sockets at a height of 30–40 centimeters from the floor. If we are talking about a bathroom, toilet, corridor or other room for utilitarian purposes, the level of fittings must be chosen based on practical need.

When laying wires, you should follow some rules:

1. The wiring should be located 15 - 20 centimeters from the ceiling.
2. The wires should only diverge vertically or horizontally. Building codes prohibit diagonal laying of wires, creating zigzags or twists between wires.
3. The distance between the grooves and the gas pipeline should not be less than 35 centimeters.

Tools and materials

Installing a socket in a wall requires the following tools and materials:

• devices for creating grooves (grinder or wall cutter);
• hammer drill for drilling sockets;
• a crown for working with concrete, a Pobedit drill, a spatula-shaped attachment;
• knife, wire cutters, screwdriver;
• putty knife;
• roulette;
• plaster and alabaster;
• deep penetration primer composition;
• socket box;
• wires;
• pencil.

Marking

Mark the center of the axis on the wall where the wires will be laid and holes for sockets will be placed. To do this work we use a pencil and a tape measure.

If in the future you need to install adjacent sockets or an entire block of devices, you must maintain a certain distance between the mechanisms. The recommended gap is 7.1 centimeters (average center-to-center distance of socket boxes).

In the center we draw 2 axes: vertical and horizontal. The lines should be long enough - this will allow the socket box to be installed as evenly as possible.

Making holes

There are three ways to create holes in a wall:

1. Using a concrete crown.
2. Using an impact drill, hammer drill and pobedit drill.
3. Using a grinder (angle grinder).

First option (crown for concrete)

The cutting element of the crown is a diamond-coated part. You can use pobedite nozzles. Heavy-duty material makes it easy to destroy any hard surface. The cut is smooth and round. In the inner part of the nozzle there is a concrete drill, designed for centering the cutting element.

Note! The nozzle must have a larger diameter than the dimensions of the installed socket box.

We place the drill at a given point and begin to immerse the crown into the material. When the cut is completed, we hollow out the remaining concrete. To do this we use a hammer and chisel.

Second option (drill, hammer drill, pobedit drill)

If you don’t have a concrete bit, you can make a hole for the socket using a Pobedit drill bit. It is best to make a hole with a hammer drill, and if a tool is not available, an impact drill will do. In the latter case, the process will be more labor-intensive.

The circle is drilled along a pre-drawn line. The step is taken as small as possible. To control the depth of penetration, it is recommended to use electrical tape tied to the drill. As in the first option, we finish the work using a hammer and chisel.

Third option (Bulgarian)

A grinder is not the best way to make round holes, but is more suitable for creating squares. However, if you don’t have any other tool, you can make a hole for a socket in the wall using a grinder.

We select a special disc for concrete. Draw a square instead of a circle. We make 4 cuts in the wall along the drawn lines. The depth of the cuts slightly exceeds the size of the socket box. We remove the remaining concrete with a hammer and chisel.

Adjusting the hole to the size of the socket box

When the hole is made, we check how well the socket box fits under it. Since the hole was initially made larger than the diameter of the socket box, problems with the width should not arise. The main effort is usually put into adjusting the desired depth.

We bring the hole to a depth at which the socket box will be buried in the niche by about 5 millimeters. The depth reserve is provided taking into account the placement of fixing material (gypsum or alabaster mortar) into the hole. In addition, a certain place will be occupied by the bend of the wire suitable for the device.

Advice! To make further work easier, it is recommended to trim the edge from the edges of the hole. We do this using a knife.

By adjusting the depth, the installed socket box will be hidden in the hole along with the outer skirt. This will allow you to install the device in the same plane with the wall. If the skirt is not recessed, you will end up with a gap of 1 - 2 millimeters between the rosette frame and the wall.

Wiring

The work is performed in the following order:

1. We check the insulation and cable cores for defects.
2. Remove the cover from the junction box.
3. We insert different ends of the cable into the junction box on one side, and into the installation box on the other. To make it convenient to make new connections in the future, we install the cable with some reserve (10 - 15 centimeters).
4. We prepare a groove at the top of the hole for the wire. To make the grooves, we use a hammer with a chisel or a hammer drill with an impact attachment. If the wall material is not hard, even a chisel is suitable for making grooves.
5. We lay the wires (corrugated pipe with a cable inside) in a groove. The wire should lie freely in the niche, without interfering with the electrical outlet. On the back of the device there is a special slot in which we place the wire.
6. The wire can be fixed with alabaster mortar. The recommended pitch is 250 millimeters.
7. We cover the defects with putty.

As a fixing composition, you can use not only alabaster, but also gypsum (medical or construction). To prepare the solution, pour the base into a container. Add water in small volumes, aiming to obtain a medium-thick solution.

The composition must be used very quickly, because after just a couple of minutes it will be very difficult to work with it, and after 5 minutes the solution will become completely unusable.

Preparation and installation of socket boxes

Turn off the electricity supply. We try the box to the hole. There should be no obstacles to installing the socket box flush with the surface. All unnecessary elements are cut off and removed.

We clean the bottom of the hole from dirt and dust, and then prime it. Treating the surface with a primer is important to ensure adhesion of the fixing composition to the wall. Let the primer dry.

1. We squeeze out a plastic fragment in the box through which we pull the cable.
2. We treat the walls and bottom of the recess and the outer part of the socket box with the solution.
3. We install the device (or block) in the solution. Align the top edge of the socket box with the level of the wall.
4. Using a building level, check the horizontalness of the mounting lugs.
5. We remove the excess solution that got into the box.

Note! If a block of sockets is to be installed, the socket boxes are connected through a structural adapter.

Installation of a double socket box

The socket boxes are connected to each other using a connector (another name is a butterfly). On the sides of the socket boxes there are special grooves for connecting the butterfly. Thanks to these grooves, you can connect not only 2, but also many more socket boxes.

Work order:

1. We make markings. We count the distance from the floor. At the desired height, draw a strip (strictly horizontally).
2. We apply the socket boxes (connected with a butterfly) to the strip. We mark the central parts of each socket box on the strip.
3. We make holes (using one of the three methods indicated above).
4. We make connecting grooves between the holes. This can be done using a grinder.
5. We lower the wire into one of the holes.
6. Further work is carried out in the same way as in the case of one socket box.

Finishing

Finishing work can begin only after the fixing composition has completely dried. If you rush and start plastering the grooves and holes earlier, there is a high risk of the built-in device moving.

Finishing is done as follows:

1. We use a primer to treat all noticeable defects, which may include irregularities, chips, and holes. Once again we trim the surface around the socket boxes.
2. When the wall is dry, we begin to putty the surface. After the putty has dried, sand the coating. As a result, it is necessary to obtain the most even concrete surface possible.
3. Apply another layer of primer and wait for it to dry.

Installation of accessories

After finishing the finishing work, we begin installing the socket mechanisms. Before starting work, check that there is no power in the network. It is recommended to shut off the current supply directly at the distribution board. To do this, you need to turn off the circuit breakers.

We connect wires to the socket depending on the type of socket (screw, spring). Here we will look at installing a socket with spring terminals.

We prepare the wires by removing the outer protective sheath of the power cable. We strip the ends of the cores by 10 - 12 millimeters. We direct the wires to the terminals of the socket mechanism. We insert the yellow-green ground wire into the central terminal, send the blue wire (zero) to the left terminal, and connect the white wire (phase) to the right terminal.

Working with wiring requires certain qualifications, and it is not recommended for non-specialists to undertake it. However, if you have basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the necessary tools, then, subject to safety precautions, it is quite possible to independently install an outlet in a concrete wall.

Almost every room has in its interior an element of electrical equipment such as sockets. You can’t live without them, because whatever you take – an iron or a computer, you need to turn it on somewhere. Due to the ever-growing number of supposedly necessary household appliances, there has become a catastrophic shortage of these same sockets.

In this regard, a certain type of device will be considered below, which is successfully used not only in closed residential premises, but also outdoors in a humid environment.

We will talk about outdoor sockets. They are also called external, for open wiring.

Features of sockets for open wiring

How do they differ from ordinary ones, which can be seen much more often than the former. Their main difference is their rather thick body. It covers the internal part - ceramic fittings and a group of contacts. Unlike internal sockets, which require a mounting box deeply recessed into the wall, external ones do not require such labor-intensive work as chiseling concrete and other types of walls. This greatly simplifies the installation and installation of one or more outlets at home.

Degree of protection

There are external sockets for open wiring with varying degrees of protection of the housing from moisture and other substances.

Important! When choosing electrical fittings, pay attention to the IP protection level. Especially if it is installed in a damp room.

Devices with IP 21 protection do not have a housing that is sealed on all sides. The back side is open and during installation it leans against the plane of the wall.

Basically, outdoor sockets with open wiring with a completely closed housing with protection class from IP 44 to IP 68 are intended for wet and other hazardous areas.

Such devices have, as already mentioned, a molded plastic housing, a cover for insulating live parts and rubber inserts for better sealing. All this should protect people from electric shock and fire - inside and outside the building.

Installation features

Sockets for external installation are mainly used in pairs with external wiring: that is, when the wires are laid not in the wall, but outside: on ceramic insulators, in a metal hose, plastic corrugation or plastic box.

Important! Installation in a metal corrugation requires its grounding, which is not always possible. It is preferable to use plastic corrugation.

Such installation, of course, can spoil the interior, but doing wiring this way is much easier and faster. Also, such installation does not require special equipment, for example, an angle grinder and a hammer drill with a crown for socket boxes.

Installation

Now, in practice, let’s look at how to install the wiring and connect an outdoor outlet. The first thing you need to do is choose an outlet. So, if you plan to install it in a dry room, then choose an outdoor one with a low protection class, for example, IP 21. This will cost less and will be slightly smaller in size than with higher protection.

Use of high security sockets.

In the case of a completely sealed socket, when the top cover is unscrewed, you will see the internal ceramic part, on which there are contacts and clamps for wires.

This interior can be easily removed, making it easier to connect wires. The main thing to do is to place the case flat against the wall and use a pencil or marker to mark the mounting holes. Now we remove the body and drill two holes for the dowels according to the markings. Most often these are 6*40 mm dowels. Moreover, we immediately insert the plastic part of the dowel into the hole, and screw the metal part into the lid. When the lid is firmly attached to the wall, half the work is done. Next, we connect the wires to the terminals of the internal part and insert it into the already nailed housing. Screw on the lid.

Installation of a socket with protection class IP 21.

Now let's look at installing an open wiring socket with an uncovered back part. Here it is needed to connect the air conditioner. As in the first case, unscrew the lid. Here is the inner part with eyelets for fastening on the sides. As you can see, the installation was carried out using a box with subsequent laying of wires in it. We find a suitable place for fastening and fit the inner part to the wall.

Important! There is no need to fasten this part closely to the box, otherwise the lid will not fit afterwards. When trying it on, apply it assembled with the cover fastening screw unscrewed.

After applying, holding the inside, carefully remove the lid. We make marks in the eyes and drill holes in the wall. Next, we insert the plastic parts of the dowel into the holes and, having threaded the metal part of the dowel into the eyes of the socket, twist it. Now the contact part is already on the wall.

Let's move on to connecting the wires. Here, a mounting box was nailed to the wall with dowels in advance for laying wires.

We connect the wires and put them into the box. Place them tightly in the box and snap the lid on.

The box must be chosen in such a size that the number of wires can easily fit in it, otherwise it will be a complete torture.

We cut out a recess in the cover for the wires to exit. The slot should be sufficient, but not too large, to look aesthetically pleasing. Put the cover on and tighten the screw. On the other side of the box, we connect the wires.

Important! Before connecting wires, check the circuit for short circuits.

This can be done with a tester or dialer. If the circuit does not short, connect the ends and apply voltage. We check his presence.

Greetings to all readers of our blog.

Today, dear readers, I want to cover the topic of how to install sockets. This procedure is very often in demand when replacing an old outlet with a new one in the event of a breakdown, when carrying out renovations in rooms and completely replacing electrical wiring.

The work itself is not very difficult, but, as with everything, there are some peculiarities and “highlights”. So let's get started...

As you know, sockets are the end points of the electrical network to which consumers (irons, refrigerators, TVs, etc.) are directly connected. They are both external and internal. The principle of connecting to the electrical network is the same for some and for others, the difference is that the internal ones are installed in special boxes (socket boxes) recessed into the wall and practically do not stick out, while the external ones are attached directly to the surface of the wall and are completely visible.

Let's look at everything in order:

ATTENTION: When carrying out any work on electrical wiring, do not forget to turn off the electricity, and additionally check that it is not in the network after turning off.

1. Attaching external sockets.

The principle of installing an outdoor socket is very simple and requires minimal effort. This type of consumer connection is used mainly in rooms with external wiring, in rooms whose structures are made of flammable materials (for example, wooden buildings).

Of course, when using external wiring and external means of connecting consumers, the aesthetic appearance of the room deteriorates - all wires are visible. But, on the other hand, when there is a choice between aesthetic appearance and safety of life, safety is clearly chosen. Due to the fact that all electrical wiring elements are visible, the problem area is easily identified. For example, if there is poor contact, you will immediately see areas where the housing has melted, a change in the color of the housing, and the appearance of smoke.

Installation of an external socket is carried out as follows.

• disassemble the body;

Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the top cover.

• Using screws, we screw the base to our surface (for example, to a wall);

If the structure is attached to a flammable material (for example, wood), it is advisable to lay a non-combustible material (paronite, plaster) under the base. This additional layer will create a barrier between the flammable material and the outlet and prevent fire.

• we connect the electrical network wires (more about this in paragraph 3 “Connecting sockets to the electrical network”).
• screw the cover to the body and completely assemble the socket.

2. Rvarieties and installation of boxes for internal sockets.

A completely different installation principle is used for internal sockets. When attaching them, a box must be used. This is a special cylindrical box into which the body of the socket itself is placed.

Previously, metal boxes were used. A recess was made in the wall at the point where the electrical wiring would come out, if the wall was tiled - or of the required diameter. A box was mounted into it using alabaster and contact wires were brought out. Only then, a means of connecting end consumers or a switch for connecting voltage to the box was attached to the box.

Nowadays, with the advent of plastic in widespread use, boxes began to be made from it. In such a box, the socket is held well both with the help of spacer legs and screwed with screws. Another advantage of such a box is its budget price.

If there is a need to install several sockets, the boxes are easily connected to each other into a block.

Depending on the material of the walls in which it is planned to mount the installation box, boxes of various modifications are also produced.

Ordinary boxes are used for installation, for example, in brick walls. To do this, use a crown to drill a hole at the location of the electrical wiring outlet and the future outlet or switch. Already in this hole, using alabaster, a box is fixed flush with the surface of the wall into which the wiring is routed.

If you plan to mount the box into a plasterboard wall, then you need to use a special box “with ears” as in the photo below.

We drill a hole with a diameter of 68 mm in the drywall. and insert the box into it. By tightening the screws, the tabs on the back of the drywall press the box and secure it firmly in place. The free space between the plasterboard and the wall must be at least 45 mm so that the box is completely recessed and flush with the outer surface of the plasterboard.

Note: Modern sockets sold in stores are almost all designed for plastic installation boxes with an internal diameter of 65 mm. and are not always suitable for metal (old) boxes. The inner diameter of the metal box is 68 mm. The extension of the legs of modern sockets is not enough to secure the housing in the old box. Therefore, when buying a socket in a store, check whether it is suitable for old boxes.

3. Connecting the socket to the electrical network.

All preparatory operations have been completed and our new outlet can be installed and connected.

• Remove the top cover by unscrewing the bolts from the front side;

• We relax the contacts into which the power wires will be inserted so that the distance between the pressing jaw and the stop is greater than the diameter of the contact wire and it can be freely inserted to a depth of 5-10 mm.

• We clean the ends of the power wires brought into the box. We orient the ends of the wires so that they fall into the contact points of the housing and bend them in the form of a springy snake (as in the photo below). This type of bend makes it possible to remove the housing from the wall to tighten the bolts securing the wires to the housing and eliminate sharp bends in the wire when inserting it into the box;

• Tighten the bolts securing the wires in the housing sockets.

It is necessary to tighten it very tightly, since when connecting a powerful consumer (for example, a 2 kW heater) and poor contact, the connection point will begin to heat up. This will lead to melting of the wires, plastic housing, and ultimately failure of the entire structure and wiring.

What to do if the ends of the wires leading into the box are short and do not allow connecting an outlet?

In this case, there are several ways out of this situation:

The best, but also the most difficult way is to lengthen the wires by soldering the required length of wire onto them and insulating the soldering area. This method is suitable if you have all the necessary accessories (soldering iron, solder, etc.) for soldering, if the wiring is copper and the length of the supply wire allows this to be done.

If the wire breaks off right under the body of the box, you can carefully open the place where the wiring is sealed in the wall and carry out the extension soldering procedure where it is convenient. Of course, the aesthetic appearance of the wall will be disrupted and this place will be damaged a little, but still, the loss of appearance will be minimal compared to replacing the entire wire from the junction box to the outlet.

If the electrical wiring is aluminum, and it most often breaks, the soldering method will be unacceptable.

In this case, if the length of the broken end allows, you can use a terminal. On one side we insert the stripped broken end of the wire into it, on the other, a stripped piece of extension wire and tightly tighten the contact points.

Of course, this method creates an additional contact point where heating is possible, which creates a certain risk. Otherwise, you will have to replace the entire supply wire from the junction box to the wiring outlet from the wall.

This was a small digression, but let's move on to further installation. We have connected the wires and now we need to install the socket in its place in the box.

4. Attaching internal sockets.

Depending on the type of box, internal sockets are attached to it in two ways:

• using fastening tabs;

The principle of their operation is simple. The mounting tabs have a curved configuration and resemble an “Archimedes lever”. When screwing in the bolts passing through the tabs, one side of the tab is pressed against the body, and the other, passing through the stop, is moved to the side. By alternately tightening the bolts on one and the other side of the body, the legs rest against the box and jam the body in the required position.

This method of fastening is practically no longer used at present. It is used only in cases where the socket is installed in a metal box, mainly in buildings from “Soviet” times.

The following mounting method is more convenient, easier and practical.

• fastening the case with two screws;

Depending on the need, we orient the body in a vertical or horizontal direction. We direct the screws into the special holes in the box and tighten them.

The socket is connected to the network, secured in the box and the last step is to put the top cover in place, apply voltage and test the functionality by connecting the consumer.

Now you know how to install a socket. I look forward to your comments and will definitely answer everyone.

See you soon, and easy repairs to everyone.

In conclusion, a short video of installing a socket in a wall lined with plasterboard.

Sincerely, Ponomarev Vladislav.

One of the most important household jobs is installing sockets and switches. And at first glance, it would seem that everything is simple. But some difficulties may arise here. First of all, the device must be safe for children. In addition, electromagnetic interference can often occur, which must be suppressed by installing special filters. If you install the outlet correctly, then such filters will not be needed.

Important nuances

When installing sockets and switches, you should follow some installation rules. Only if they are followed can safety and high-quality installation be ensured. Before starting work, you must turn off the electricity in the entire building or apartment. That is, after turning off the light, all operations are done, such as knocking out the grooves, drilling holes and holes, laying the cable and connecting it to the outlet. Only then is electricity supplied to check the functionality of the system.

Each wire is checked with a phase indicator before connection. When performing installation work, You need to remember that tension can appear at any time, so checking the wire early for voltage is very important. It is also important not to touch exposed wires during installation.

In cases where there is a sudden electric shock, it should be remembered that safety primarily depends on the speed and reaction of the worker . In this case, a person can receive the following bruises:

• in 0.2 seconds (average reaction speed) - causes discomfort;
• in 1 second - trembling, pain and chills, which may intensify without timely medical assistance and require hospitalization;
• within 10 seconds - fibrillation of the heart muscle, fainting (without hospitalization it usually ends in death).

In this regard, it is necessary to react in a timely manner not only to the person who has been shocked, but also to those around him. It’s better to immediately pull the worker over. But you need to remember that in this way you can take part of the blow.

Design features of the device

Before installing the socket and switch yourself, you should understand their design. This will help you avoid making many mistakes while working. Structurally, the socket consists of three key elements: the contact block assembly, the front cover and the socket box. The last two perform only a decorative function, and only the block is related to the electrical part.

The block, in turn, consists of the following components:

When choosing sockets, you need to pay attention to the type of legs. Movable ones are more difficult to install, but they make it possible to adjust the position of the housing in any direction, that is, you can mount the device exactly on the wall. In addition, you should give preference to paws with two teeth, as they are more reliable. Single-tooth structures will loosen faster.

The wires can be attached to the contacts with screws or have their own contacts. The last option is more reliable. In the first case, the wires must be exposed, carefully worked with solder and then tightened tightly onto the bolts.

Terminals can also be of two types - screw and brushes. The first ones need to be tightened with screws, and the second wires are simply inserted into them, and the mechanism automatically fixes them. But the so-called brushes also have their drawbacks. It will not be possible to redo them a second time, since the wires will have to be pulled out by force, and the brushes will break in the process. Screw connections should be done with cold solder before twisting.

Types of devices

Both sockets and switches can be single, double or triple. But the latter are not as popular as the first two options. They are combined into one array, have a common cover and socket box. Socket group - several sockets installed in one row. To install a module (array) of sockets or a socket group, a regular socket box is used.

In addition, devices may have other additions. For example, connectors for connecting the Internet, television, landline phone, setting a timer, a sensor that turns off the positive contact when you touch the socket, and the like. The socket or switch is usually mounted in a special mounting box, which is prematurely installed in a hole made in the wall.

Lifesaver model

A simple and convenient modern model of an overhead socket. It has many advantages, but there are also disadvantages.

The lifesaver model allows you to:

European analogues

If we compare the factor of consumer needs, then the “lifesaver” model is not the best option. The opposite of these characteristics is a device with retractable sockets. It is very quickly gaining popularity in the European Union.

Although, on the other hand, such a device has a low level of safety, since due to the installation of the entire device in the wall, cases of fire have become more frequent. Although the socket is convenient, since it does not spoil the interior of the room, and if necessary, it is pulled out, but this is more of a marketing ploy than a useful function.

Safety regulations

Previously, the installation height of sockets and switches was fixed and mandatory for everyone. That is, it was necessary to install the socket at a distance of 80 cm from the floor, and the switch - 160 cm. Today, such standards are recommended, but not mandatory. According to European standards, the installation height of the socket is 30 cm from the floor, and the minimum is 25 cm. If installed at a shorter distance, there is a possibility of a short circuit or fire while washing the floor. These standards are already popular in the CIS countries.

On the other hand, it is possible to install sockets below, but only if there is an emergency power shutdown system. Even if a short circuit occurs, there will be no consequences in the form of a fire, since the system will completely cut off the electricity supply. In this case, the number of sockets in the apartment does not matter. For children's rooms, on the contrary, it is necessary to install sockets high from the floor, about 170 cm. This is necessary so that children cannot reach the sockets. It is also necessary to equip sensors to turn off the device when touched.

On the other hand, some rules for arranging sockets and terminating wires must be followed. They reduce the likelihood of an emergency several times and also facilitate troubleshooting. Firstly, you need to remember that electricians, when installing sockets, always remove them from the window side. If the position relative to the window is ambiguous, then the phase should be on the left side.

Secondly, you cannot attach the shortest possible wires directly to the terminals. This is due to the need from time to time to cut off part of the wire, strip the end of the remaining one and reattach it to the terminals, since it burns out and becomes deformed over time. When connecting, the cable is passed under the contact group.

If you run the wires under the block, you should also take into account the fact that the plus and protection must be circled on one side, and the minus on the other. In this case, two wires can be fixed into each terminal. It should be remembered that stationary lamps or other consumers of this type cannot be directly plugged into sockets. This is contrary to general safety rules.

Installing switches is almost the same as installing electrical sockets. The same installation methods are used, they are mounted in a box, and there is a socket box. If the switch is single-pole, then you need to install the wire only in the phase gap. It is absolutely impossible to do this on a minus. Finding the plus on the switch is easy. It is also located according to all the rules on the left side.

Previously, a well-known trick was used when, in order to save money, any wires were connected to the switch, and the cut plus was left in the distribution box under the ceiling. Today such a reception is unacceptable.

Required tools and materials

As with any other similar work, before starting it is necessary to prepare all the tools and materials that may be needed during the execution process. The durability of the structure will depend on the quality of the materials, and how easily it can be assembled together will depend on the tools.

In order to install a socket or switch, you need to prepare the following:

Sometimes electrical tape can be used as a damper, that is, a winding where it passes through various holes, rather than as insulation.

First you need to understand some techniques for removing insulation. For example, professional electricians remove it in their own way. Side cutters are used to cut through the wire insulation. This should not be done all the way; you cannot cut through the copper part and then pull it to the side.

In this matter, the main thing is to get better. Professional craftsmen perform such an operation “blindly”, and the possibility of formation of bites is very unlikely. It's a different matter for novice electricians, who get stuck in most attempts.

It is also important to understand the general principles of wire splicing. You need to do this operation if you need to move the socket to another location. According to safety regulations, splicing wires is not recommended. But if you need to install an outlet in a certain place, then all that remains is to break up the decorative trim. Therefore, sometimes you can neglect the general rules.

When installing in a concrete wall, you need to know the thickness of the finish. The edge of the socket box should be flush (parallel) with the wall. The device is mounted in drywall using special socket boxes with sliding supports.

Installing an outlet or switch in the house is not difficult even for an inexperienced novice master. The main thing is to adhere to a clear work algorithm and listen to the advice of electricians. Here you need to do the work carefully, and the result will not be long in coming. At the same time, the house will never smell of burning from burnt insulation. It is also worth installing only high-quality equipment and using professional tools.