Roses compatibility with other flowers. What to plant next to roses in a flower bed

There are such definitions of colors as warm and cold. Orange and yellow (warm) go well with blue and violet. Red is a warm color, but since it itself is catchy, it looks good with white and yellow. Blue (cold) is very good next to white, red, pink. Green goes with all warm tones. White color goes with any colors.

It is quite difficult for a beginner to form mixed groups. I will give examples of successful compositions that have been tested in practice.

Good combinations of gypsophila and rose; delphinium with lily, chamomile, phlox and early rose.

phlox, roses and cineraria

Doronicum with tulip;

iris and poppy

With oriental poppy; with bell, fern, hosta, anemone; Iberis with aubrieta; doronicum with tulip;

roses and lilies

roses with lily, annual aster, delphinium, gypsophila; chamomile with delphinium, poppy, ; solidago with purple perennial aster, helenium.

daisies and roses

Of course, you will form groups based on your preferences for certain colors, and these are just recommendations.

daffodils and muscari

The composition of daffodils and blues looks beautiful. They bloom in spring.

Forsythia with carmine-red tulips looks picturesque.

When planting magnolia and iris, a very harmonious picture is obtained.

You can create groups of flowers and vegetables. (marigolds) are planted in the corners of the plot. Zucchini and pumpkin are placed between them. Plant poppies in front, beets on the left, and carrots on the right. A rhombus, circle or square of pink or blue cornflowers is also arranged here. In front of the entire composition there is a border decorated with lettuce leaves.

Flower planting schemes

There are several planting schemes:

• monochrome (use different shades of the same color, for example, dark roses);
• contrasting (created by pure tones located opposite each other in the color wheel), for example, irises can contrast with peonies and lilies;
• similar tones (most often this is a planting of 2-4 shades adjacent in the color wheel; the transition element is white).

Thinking through the design of a flower garden, taking into account the agronomic characteristics of the plants being planted, their combinations with neighboring ones, plus imagination help to create unique flower beds.

How to design a flowerbed

It is better to make the basis of the flower arrangement in a flower bed from beautiful perennials, placing the tallest or most beautiful specimens in the center (in the background in a one-way view) - they are called dominant or soloists.
Annuals planted annually in the same flower garden will serve as an effective addition. When selecting and planting flowers, you should adhere to the intended plan, diagram and follow a few more rules:

• Plant plants in the flowerbed in increasing order from the perimeter to the center.
• Buy species and varieties that match in color, have similar requirements for growing conditions, and get along well with each other.
• Be sure to take into account the periods of flowering and the greatest decorativeness, so that when some specimens fade, the buds of others growing nearby begin to open. This results in continuous flowering. Another option would be to plant plants that bloom all summer.
• Pay attention to the decorative qualities of the leaves so that they continue to decorate your creation after flowering has finished.
• If possible, do not include varieties in the flower bed that need garter or supports - this will spoil the overall appearance of the flower bed.
• Maintain optimal planting density. It looks more beautiful if the plants are planted densely around the perimeter and less often in the center.

Examples of flowerbed design

flowers and a small pond

Alyssum and Aubrietta

Hardly every amateur gardener decides to arrange a corner for a rose garden in his garden. After all, the queen of the garden is capricious not only in her care, but also picky about her flowerbed neighbors. How to choose a worthy retinue for this noble person? Which neighbors will better highlight its beauty, have a favorable effect on the plantings, and what is better not to plant flower beds with roses nearby?

Mutually beneficial cooperation

Aesthetic component of landscape design

As for complex multi-level mixborders, it is recommended to grow low-growing flowering plants, medium-sized bushy plants, and tall ones with erect, non-branching stems near this noble beauty. For example, it would be appropriate to plant a low geranium here. And varieties that reach a height of a meter and at the same time form bushes will cover the rose and compete with it for attention. On the contrary, gladioli, foxgloves, and tall decorative onions will fit perfectly into plantings.

However, not every low plant can be placed near rose plantings. Amateur gardeners should be warned against planting sedum and saxifrage ground cover nearby. These flowers oppress roses.

Clematis can become a good neighbor, but under certain conditions. These flowers can only be planted on an already established rose bush. Otherwise, the clematis root system will also begin to oppress young plantings.

Decorative deciduous and evergreen plants

Silver wormwood will be a good neighbor. This decorative deciduous plant with a cool shade of foliage will emphasize the tenderness of pink petals and the brightness of scarlet buds. There will be no conflict if ferns are planted near rose bushes. But it is not recommended to make hosts neighbors.

In the autumn, planting roses will be beautifully shaded by evergreen conifers. However, we must remember that some varieties of junipers and thujas grow very quickly and are capable of displacing other plants.

Unpleasant neighbors

With phosphorus starvation, the leaves become bluish-green, sometimes red-violet, plant growth is weakened, flowers and ovaries disappear.

Excess potassium retards plant growth and flower development. From a lack of potassium, the leaves become dome-shaped, first light yellow at the edges, then brown, and die. The same is observed with an excess of boron.

Magnesium starvation manifests itself in the lightening of leaves, with normal color remaining only along the veins. Leaves become brittle and fall off prematurely.

In order for garden flowers to develop and bloom well, they must receive a sufficient amount of macronutrients, which include calcium, phosphorus, nitrogen, and microelements (magnesium, manganese, copper, zinc, boron).

The larger and older the plant, the more nutrients it requires. In addition, different flowers need different amounts of one or another element, and also absorb them differently. Plants with a poorly developed root system have to be fed more than plants with powerful branched roots.

It is important not only the amount of nutrients added, but also their proportion. If the proportion is not met, this will immediately affect the development of flowers - they will grow too quickly or, conversely, slow down their development.

Culture compatibility table

Features of the flower menu

Most flower crops absorb the most potassium from the soil, less nitrogen and even less phosphorus.

Moreover, the need for potassium in cloudy weather, with short daylight hours or when plants are shaded increases significantly, and for nitrogen it decreases. All plants, but especially flower bulbous crops, remove large amounts of potassium from the soil.

Depending on the growing season, different flower crops have different nutrient requirements. Plants with a long growing season (gladioli, and others) need higher doses of fertilizers, and those with a short growing season (tulips) need lower doses.

The condition for growing most flower crops is the application of fertilizers before planting. To replenish the soil with nutrients and improve its structure, organic matter is used - manure, bird droppings, compost, peat, green manure - and mineral fertilizers.

It is better to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in the fall, and nitrogen fertilizers in the spring. Application rates depend on the soil, the plants that will grow on it, and their predecessors.

Roses in the garden

That Rose - queen of flowers, everyone knows. Therefore, probably, gardeners, especially beginners, are simply afraid to associate themselves with such a noble plant. Of course, the rose is capricious compared to, say, marigolds, but not so much as to give it up. The fear that a plant will die arises only from ignorance of its biology. So let's find out what a rose needs to make it fit in your garden.

First, a few words about the features of this plant. Roses are known to be light- and heat-loving. But this does not mean that they can only live in the south. Rosehip, which is the same rose, but only wild, feels great even in the Arctic Circle. And among the tens of thousands of cultivated roses, there are varieties bred specifically for the northern regions. Since it is difficult to consider all possible conditions in one short article, we will stick to those that are typical for the middle zone.

Choose an area in the garden where the roses will be neither cold nor hot. It should be protected from the wind from the north and northeast, but at the same time slightly ventilated; be well lit by the sun, especially in the first half of the day; Stagnation of water in spring and summer after rain is unacceptable; groundwater should be no closer than 1.5 m; Where water drains slowly, drainage is needed. The best soils are medium loamy, well fertilized. Heavy clay soils are improved by adding sand, and light sandy soils are improved with clay or turf soil. And in both cases, organic fertilizers are added, of which the best is cow manure.

If the conditions for this crop on your site are suitable, Start choosing seedlings. This is not a problem now. If you order seedlings from afar, try to do it in the spring, not in the fall.

Growing roses

Roses can be either on their own roots - grown from cuttings - or grafted, when a cultivated variety is grafted onto the root system (usually rose hips). Which ones are better? It is impossible to answer this question unequivocally. Both of them have their own advantages and disadvantages. Self-rooted roses, for example, do not produce wild shoots like grafted ones, but the latter are more frost-resistant.

How to distinguish a grafted seedling from a rooted one? The grafted one always has a thickening above the root collar - the grafting site. In any case, a good seedling will be one that has a developed root system with a mass of thin roots and a mature above-ground part - the shoots, when bent, emit a characteristic crunch and break easily. Do not take seedlings with two or three thick and clumsy roots - this means that the rootstock is old and its survival rate is reduced. In general, the younger the plant, the easier it adapts to new conditions and takes root faster. 1-2 year old seedlings are usually recommended for planting. Those with dry roots and wrinkled bark are not suitable.

Well, now you have chosen a seedling (or better yet, buy 2-3 for insurance), now you need to plant it correctly. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate all the roots. But first you need to cut off those that are too long, dry and damaged. Before planting, the stems are also trimmed, leaving 3-5 buds on each. Make an earthen mound in the hole, place a seedling on it, straighten all the roots and cover them with earth, periodically compacting the soil with your hands. Attention! If you have a grafted seedling, then the grafting site should be buried 5 cm below the soil surface. Without doing this, you risk growing excellent rose hips in a year or two.

Finally they planted the rose, made a hole around it and watered it generously.

They often ask When is the best time to plant roses?? In the southern regions - in the fall, starting from October, in the northern regions - in the spring, and in the middle zone it is possible both in the spring and in the autumn, but no later than 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost. If you do not want to take risks with autumn planting, then bury the seedlings until spring in the basement, where the temperature in winter does not fall below 0°.

The next, very important point both during planting and further care is covering the roses for the winter. The air-dry method gives good results when there is enough air under the shelter and there is no dampness. An earthen mound is made around the seedling, on which dry leaves are poured, spruce branches are thrown, covered with film or roofing felt, but not tightly, and when the snow falls, make sure that it is not blown away by the wind.

Neighborhood of flowers compatibility in a flower bed

Among flowers, as among people, there are very different “individuals” with similar and dissimilar habits. There are capricious ones who are very demanding of care, and there are “lovers” of extreme sports, for whom the worse the better. Therefore, you should select flowers to each other especially carefully.

Tip: remember that plants placed in the same flower garden must have the same requirements for light, humidity, and soil quality.

The most luxurious perennials - roses, peonies and clematis - prefer to bathe in the sun's rays, but for complete comfort they need fertile soil, proper fertilizing, and sufficient and timely watering. And yet, even under such conditions, experienced gardeners advise planting them apart - separately from each other and from other plants (the distance for peonies is at least 1 m, for roses - 0.5 m).

These kings and queens of the garden will look especially impressive in solitary plantings against the background of a lawn, growing away from conifers or ornamental shrubs, provided that the latter bloom at different times with our heroes. Peonies bloom for a short time, but their lush bushes are magnificent even after flowering. Therefore, at some distance from them (but not in their shade), you can plant later-blooming annuals that love the sun and can easily tolerate moderate drought.

If your soul longs to diversify such a flower garden, choose a discreet, discreet frame for it. For example, the beauty of roses and Peonov the modest lace of gypsophila paniculata, graceful lavender or spectacular leaves of silver wormwood are emphasized. Not far from the rose garden, you can plant protective plants that can drive away insidious pests. Perfect option - Marigolds and sage.

These sun worshipers are drought-resistant and do not pretend to feed others. Advice: keep in mind that the abundance of different and simultaneously flowering plants in one flower garden looks at least ridiculous - such diversity dazzles the eyes.

Royal people, whose quirks we have already talked about, are far from the only candidates for a “sunny” flower garden.

In spring, the clearing, flooded with generous rays, will be decorated with mixed plantings of bulbs: tulips, hyacinths and daffodils. Decorative onions and gypsophila paniculata will gladly keep tulips company.

But remember: tulips should not be dug up or their leaves trimmed until nutrients have accumulated in the bulbs. The signal for “removal” will be completely dried foliage.

Don’t worry about the beauty of the landscape; by that time, the bulbous plants will be hidden by a “screen” of tall, drought-resistant annuals or perennials, which in our climate have “re-qualified” as annuals.

This Verbena and high varieties of marigolds and lacfiol (yellow gillyflower). In similar conditions, Lilies and phloxes, chrysanthemums and asters, dahlias and decorative sunflowers, gladioli and zinnias, cannas and daisies feel good.

However, the demands of plants extend not only to light, but also to humidity and other soil characteristics. And this will also have to be taken into account when arranging flower beds and flower beds.

Many sun-loving plants prefer moderate watering and good drainage.

Many ornamental grasses are quite drought-resistant, for example Elimus, two-breasted fescue and gray fescue. But there are also plants that equally love both sun and water. These are Irises and decorative onions, saplings and paniculata phlox, autumn helenium and rudbeckia, gladiolus and purple coneflower.

Flowers and flowering plants usually prefer rich, neutral soils and readily accept fertilizing. Groundcovers and some wildlife are accustomed to poor, not very generous soil: this Yaskolka, young, wormwood(and other plants with silver-gray leaves), they often become ill from feeding.

Advice: if possible, avoid dense planting; many plants occupy an increasing area over time and interfere with each other, so it is important to maintain distance and cover the “naked” soil with decorative mulch.

Read also: Neighborhood and alternation of vegetables

Secrets of the Twilight.

The shade can be different: solid or impenetrable shade is provided by outbuildings, fences and dense plantings, light shade is provided by trees and shrubs with lacy foliage. Plants react differently to too little or too much light. Shade-loving animals show their beauty only where there is little sun.

Shade-tolerant plants prefer sunny places, but agree to put up with varying degrees of shading, although with such a compromise they partially lose their attractiveness. There is no point in combining plants with different tastes.

When choosing “tenants” for a shady corner of the garden, you need to pay attention to whether they are shade-loving or shade-tolerant.

Moderately shade-tolerant plants tolerate slight shading, which can be created by taller “neighbors” in one flower garden: Cornflowers, saplings, daylilies, pyrethrum and dicentra.

An excellent option for shade are “wild” perennials, which in natural conditions have adapted to the lack of sunlight.

Miniature groundcovers - small periwinkle, parsley, pachysandra, ivy bud - will cover the rows and voids in the garden, driving away weeds. You can create magnificent carpets even where shade-tolerant lawn grasses do not survive - under spruce trees or on the north side of the house, shade-loving European hoofed grass, yellow green grass, apical pachysandra and tiarella cordifolia will take root here perfectly.

They also feel good in intense shade. Anemone, lily of the valley, ferns, liverwort and some varieties and species of hosta. Creeping tenacious and variegated varieties are suitable for shaded borders, rockeries and alpine slides Brunners, bergenia and lungwort. Among the beautifully flowering perennials that tolerate light shading without loss, it is worth paying attention to Volzhanka, elecampane, Rogers and Solidago. Can be planted in partial shade Anemone, aconite, meadowsweet, dicentra and astilbe.

Many former weeds, which have been transformed into ornamental plants by gardeners, are accustomed to extreme conditions and grow quite successfully in acidic soils.

Slightly increased acidity will be easily tolerated Daylilies and primroses, pachysandra apex, tiarella and armeria. Slightly acidic soil is preferred by saplings, aconite, delphinium, various varieties of sedge, anemone, lily of the valley, gentian and cereals. Strongly acidic soils are preferred by ornamental shrubs and some herbaceous perennials: Fern, dicentra, bergenia and multileaf lupine.

Friends or enemies?

Plants with similar tastes do not always get along together, and opposites push each other out of the occupied territory. Options for a successful neighborhood can be the most unexpected, but most often they have to be determined by trial and error.

It happens that plants whose requirements for comfort coincide cannot grow side by side. For example, tree peonies are bad neighbors not only for perennials, but even for trees and shrubs planted closer than 1.5 m.

Roses wither from close proximity to carnations and mignonette, and peonies have a depressing effect on the queen of the garden herself. Lily of the valley makes you suffer when growing nearby peonies and violets, and dahlias noticed to “destroy” almost all competitors - after all, there are fewer weeds next to them than with other plants.

Representatives are particularly aggressive Ranunculaceae family, they suck moisture and all useful substances from the soil, thoroughly

Depleting the soil, so those around them have to sit on a starvation diet. Along the way, the roots of representatives of this family release substances that can poison the lives of their green “brothers”.

And if you plant buttercups on a clover lawn, even hardy clover will die. Ground cover plants love to conquer other people's territories, and bulbous plants that overwinter in the ground especially suffer from them: it is difficult for them to break through the powerful interweaving of “tops and roots.” If, contrary to the habits of plants, you nevertheless decide to combine bulbous and ground cover crops in one flower garden, aggressive impulses should be limited by rigid frames made of tin or metal, both in the ground and above the ground.

Flowers and their neighborhood - choosing candidates: photo

1. Marigold Perfection1 F1. The bush is compact or spreading with a clearly defined main shoot and completely round, densely double inflorescences up to 15 cm in diameter. The bush is powerful, strong, well branched, 35-40 cm high, 30-35 cm wide. Plants look great in borders, flower beds and flower beds , go well with phlox, dahlias, asters, and geraniums. Flowering from late June - early July until frost.

2. BRACHICOMA- an annual plant 15-25 cm high. The bushes contain numerous inflorescences with flowers 3-3.5 cm in diameter. Reed flowers are white, blue, purple or lilac-pink; tubular (smaller) - blue or almost black. Flowering is abundant, from mid-June to September or October depending on the weather. Loves open sunny places and light and nutritious soil. Watering is necessary only in dry weather; for abundant flowering, fertilizing with full mineral fertilizers is recommended. Planting after return frosts, the distance between plants is 15-20 cm.

3. Cornflower- two - or annual herbaceous plant with a height of 60 to 80 cm. Flowers of garden forms can be white, pink, purple, red. Unpretentious, but loves sunlight, blooms from June to September. Grow in open ground in a sunny place, the distance between individuals is 20-50 cm. When grown in a group of plants or flower beds, plant on the south side in the first row so that sunlight evenly falls on the leaves. Loves fertile, humus-rich soil with neutral acidity.

4. Diascia bearded– most often an annual crop up to 30 cm high, strongly branches, forming a spherical bush. The flowers are small, up to 2 cm in diameter, pink in color, of different shades, often with a yellow spot in the neck. Tolerates lack of moisture well. Therefore, it is quite suitable for planting in containers, and is widely used to decorate the borders of mixborders, the edges of flower beds and garden paths.

5. NEMESIIA GOITTER- an annual plant 30-40 cm high. The flowers are bright orange, yellow, pink, red or variegated, up to 2.5 cm in diameter. This is one of the best annuals for borders or groups in prefabricated flower beds, as well as for planting in flowerpots and balconies boxes. Flowering continues until the end of September. To provoke a second wave of flowering, cut off faded stems at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

Rose is a flower that can grow in any “company”; it feels equally good among other varieties, and even surrounded by completely different plants. The most common companions of roses are sage, bluebell and foxglove. These plants begin to actively bloom after the rose itself has faded, and therefore do not in the least detract from its external charm.

Roses can also be planted among annual plants, which you can choose according to your own taste. There are no rules regarding planting a rose bush; each gardener decides for himself whether he wants to decorate the rose garden with some other flowers, or whether he will leave room exclusively for the queen of all flowers.

Garden rose care

How garden roses propagate

Roses are propagated by cuttings.

• Young shoots are cut from already flowering bushes in July.
• In this case, a branch with three branches is cut, which also need to be slightly trimmed.
• The cut should be oblique.
• The cuttings are planted in the soil without any special preparations, covered with a jar and left in this form until winter.
• With the onset of frost, the cuttings are covered with sawdust or any other available means.
• In the spring, the jar can be removed and planted in a flower garden, while trying to monitor the emerging signs of flowering.
• The plant should not bloom in the first year after planting, this will deprive it of its strength and will not allow it to become a beautiful large bush in the future.

Fertilizers

When planting roses in open ground, you need to be prepared for the fact that the plants will require a large amount of fertilizer, which will have to be added to the soil regularly.

The following types of fertilizers exist:

• Horse manure is the best and most effective means for stimulating the growth and flowering of rose bushes of any variety. Manure is mixed with soil and placed in this form under the bushes. It is important to remember that you can only use manure that has already rotted; fresh manure can only harm roses, just like any other type of manure.
• Chicken droppings cannot be used as fertilizer; they can cause quite serious damage to the root system, cause burns and even complete destruction of the roots.
• Calcium nitrate, diluted in the amount of one tablespoon per bucket of water, will support the rose during flowering for a long time, preventing the buds from crumbling and withering.
• An infusion of mullein in combination with mineral fertilizers will help the rose “postpone” the flowering time without loss to its appearance.

Regardless of the type and amount of fertilizer applied to the bush, some precautions should be taken, among which the most popular is abundant watering of the plant. Moist soil will soften the effects of manure and nitrate, even if the required proportions are not met.

Diseases of garden roses

Roses often get sick, so there is no hope that a rose planted in the garden in person will be special.

The most common diseases are:

• Downy spotted mildew
• Septoria leaf blight
• Cercospora leaf blight
• Black spot
• Purple spot
• Rust
• Powdery mildew
• Gray rot

All of the above diseases, except the last one, affect exclusively the leaves and stems of the plant, while gray rot affects the roots. The causative agents of the disease are fungi of various kinds, it is almost impossible to fight them. The disease is spreading at an incredible rate, quickly adapting to different treatments. No chemicals will help here.

As an option, you can try spraying the plant with a copper-soap solution, but you shouldn’t really hope for results. If the disease has not yet taken over the entire plant, you can try to cut off the affected areas, but in the case of gray mold, the entire plant will have to be removed.

But this will not protect the plant from infection. Growing roses is still, as in the old days, hard work, which is why roses are so highly valued compared to other flowers.

Before purchasing a beautiful rose bush, every gardener, whether amateur or professional, should ask himself whether he is ready to spend half of his free time in the garden pinching, pruning, feeding, watering, spraying and covering just one flower - a rose.

You will learn more information about how to plant a rose correctly from the video.

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Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory appetizer for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but this process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. According to my recipe, you can simply prepare pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and by the evening the spicy appetizer will be ready. Watermelon marinated with spices and chili can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of safety - when chilled, this snack is simply licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest one - the blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Blushing stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also a strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

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