External corners for tiles: types, installation methods. Why do you need corners for tiles when renovating a bathroom? Technology for laying corners under tiles

Among all the activities that require bathroom renovation, tiling occupies an important place. Special attention should be paid to the installation of internal corners, also called trims and layouts, which give the cladding completeness and improve its performance characteristics. Each type of such product has a lot of undeniable advantages.

Peculiarities

Practice shows that many specialists do without tile corners, preferring the procedure of grinding the edges of the tiles at an angle of 45 degrees. It should be noted that this solution has its advantages, but the implementation of such an event by a person without proper experience is not possible. Considering this circumstance, it is reasonable for non-professionals to place their bets on trims, the installation of which is not particularly difficult.

Installation of internal layouts is carried out at the joints located between adjacent surfaces. Unlike external corners, such products do not carry a serious functional load, and therefore they are used much less frequently. Most often, internal trims are used in situations that involve following a particular design idea. They organically complement the interior of the room, making its perception as advantageous as possible.

As for the design of internal corners for ceramic tiles, it provides for the following elements:

• tile puzzle;

• perforated rib ensuring optimal adhesion of the adhesive to the tile;

• the front part, the main function of which is decorative.

The standard width of such products is 10 mm, and the length can be chosen by the home owner in accordance with the task (as a rule, this figure does not exceed 250 cm).

Advantages and disadvantages

There are a considerable number of reasons that make the use of internal trims a completely justified decision.

If we highlight the most significant advantages of such profiles, then their list will look like this:

• ensuring the evenness of the cladding in the area of ​​joints;
• effective masking of the vast majority of defects resulting from careless cutting of tiles;
• increasing the strength of lined surfaces;
• significant simplification of the installation process due to the absence of the need to trim the tiles;
• increasing the resistance of tiles to moisture;
• achieving the best appearance of joints, achieved with the help of decorative varieties of layouts.

In addition, installing internal corners requires less time than arranging joints by grinding down tile edges. While talking about the advantages of the presented products, it is worth mentioning their disadvantages.

These, depending on the type of tile trim, are:

• the relatively high cost of layouts made of ceramics;
• the appearance of yellowness on white plastic profiles after a certain time (for this reason it is advisable to rely on black or colored inner corners);
• gradual destruction of the surface of chrome trims due to regular mechanical stress.

As you can see, the advantages of internal layouts for tiles are much greater than the disadvantages, which ensures their high and steadily growing popularity.

Varieties

Depending on the base material of the internal corners for tiles, the following types of these products are distinguished:

Plastic

Such layouts are made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which is one of the most popular polymers in construction. Such profiles boast a variety of color options, as well as lightness, flexibility and resistance to moisture. In addition, PVC corners can be glued to silicone sealant after laying the tile covering, which is explained by their low weight.

Ceramic

This type of trim is considered the most prestigious. This is due to the presence of patterns that repeat the pattern on the tile or are organically combined with it. The use of such products gives the cladding the most impressive look, making it a real decoration of the bathroom.

Metal

The main distinguishing features of such layouts are reliability and impressive wear resistance. The material of such corners is stainless steel, and a decorative coating can be applied to their front side. To solve this problem, nickel or chromium is used.

Aluminum internal corners are especially popular. First of all, they are relevant in cases of combining several shades of ceramics in the joint area. Unlike aluminum products, the neutral tone of which is suitable in the vast majority of cases, arranging such corners with colored PVC trim cannot be called the optimal solution. In addition, such layouts are in perfect harmony with other metal elements of the bathroom - for example, with parts of the shower stall.

It is also worth adding that the internal corners for tiles differ in the installation method, based on which they can be horizontal or vertical. Another significant characteristic of trims is their sizes, the main numbering of which includes numerical values ​​from 6 to 12. The latter are measured in millimeters and indicate thickness, defined as the distance from the base of the layout to its edge.

Selection rules

Before purchasing internal trims, the owner of the premises should pay attention to the manufacturer of the products he is interested in, whose products must meet advanced quality and safety requirements. Otherwise, the result of the repair may be unsatisfactory due to the short service life of the purchased layouts. One of the best solutions recommended by experts are inner corners with acrylic coating, which can boast not only spectacular shine, but also excellent wear resistance.

As for the thickness of the inner corners, it is determined taking into account the thickness of the tiles used. In a situation where the latter is 9 mm, it is necessary to choose trim No. 10 (which is 1 mm thicker than ceramic tiles) and so on. Calculating the total length of purchased products is also not difficult: it is enough to add up the lengths of all the joints being installed. When purchasing the required number of trims, it is worth buying one additional one in order to compensate for the consumption of material during the trimming process.

Another criterion for choosing internal layouts for tiles, which is of paramount importance, is their color. To determine the most suitable shade of the corners, it is advisable to have a sample of the tiles with which they will be used.

If the home owner wants to rely on the use of trims of a color different from the tiles, he needs to take into account the following recommendations:

• a silver corner is the optimal solution for tiles made in cool or dark colors;

• Pastel-colored tiles go best with layouts that are similar in color;

• golden trims are suitable for ceramics whose tone is warm and cheerful;

• creating bold contrasts is appropriate in rooms lined with bright tiles;
• You can purchase internal corners with your own ornament, adding additional aesthetics to the interior of the room.

The choice of layouts in accordance with the complexity of their installation is worthy of special mention.

Thus, working with plastic trims is the easiest, followed by the arrangement of metal corners, and the most difficult is the installation of ceramic products. This circumstance should be taken into account by everyone who wants to do without the help of specialists.

Installation

Installing internal tile trims involves gradually moving from the free edge towards the internal corner.

Corners for framing tiles, depending on their installation location, are divided into two types - external and internal. Regardless of the type, in everyday life many tilers or even sellers of building materials themselves often call corners the same way - baguette, abutment, frame or decorative profile.

Functions performed by the framing corner:

• Protection of the outer corner from mechanical damage;
• Prevents dirt and debris from accumulating in inner corners;
• Preventing human injury from an accidental impact on a sharp corner;
• A decorative addition to the overall design of a tiled room.

• PVC - such baguettes are used exclusively for decorating the corner. The color and shade of the junction can be absolutely any, which allows you to choose a corner for tiles with any external design.
• Aluminum - often coated with powder paint for decoration purposes; such framing performs not only decorative functions, but also protects the outer corner from damage.
• Brass – as a protective coating for the corner, the brass profile is oxidized, anodized or galvanized at the factory. Most often, brass corners are used when facing “heavy” tiles, for example, porcelain stoneware with dimensions of 50x50 cm or more.
• Stainless steel - rarely found on the market. The price is usually high. Basically, a stainless steel baguette is used when it is necessary to decorate the outer corner and protect it from external influences for a very long period. Used, for example, for lining public swimming pools.

Advice! Despite the variety of materials described above, for framing the corners in the bathroom of a city apartment, the PVC corner is optimal in terms of cost and quality.

Outer corner; profile shape, dimensions and installation methods

On sale there are external corners with a length of 200, 250 and 300 cm. The width of a flat perforated shelf is usually 20-30 mm. The depth between the radius flange and the adjacent flat flange can be from 7 to 11 mm. Specifically, the choice of the optimal depth between the shelves depends on the thickness of the ceramic tiles used for cladding.

There are two ways to install the outer corner

1. Method of installing a baguette using tile adhesive. The outer corner is pre-cut to the strictly required length. When laying the very first corner tile on the adhesive, the perforated shelf of the outer corner is placed in the adhesive joint. The corner is aligned strictly along the trajectory of the future corner and temporarily fixed in this position. The outer tiles from the top row are laid in the same way so that the tile adhesive completely covers the perforated shelf.

2. Method of installing the outer corner using silicone or liquid nails. When laying tiles with glue on two adjacent planes of the outer corner, the depth and width of the radius flange of the corner to be installed in the future are provided in advance. Simply put, on the outer corner the tiles are slightly misaligned. While the glue is “wet”, it is cleaned under the tile to a depth of 20 mm. Next, when the glue under the tile has hardened, an even layer of liquid nails is applied to the cleaned seam and a flat perforated shelf of the outer corner is inserted directly through the glue into the seam.

Aluminum corner

External corner for steps

Advice! It is not recommended to install the metal corner described above along the entire length of the step. During installation, it is necessary to provide small gaps for the natural flow of water from the step. This is especially important when facing street steps.

Inner corner; profile shape, dimensions and installation methods

There are two methods used to attach the inner corner

1. Installation with tile adhesive. The most reliable way. The bottom line is that on both shelves of the L-shaped profile there are ceramic tiles laid on glue. However, this method requires high professionalism from the tiler. It is necessary to cut the outer tile very accurately and evenly when tiling the inner corner.

2. Installation with liquid nails. The method is less reliable and not very accurate. This method consists in cutting off one of its shelves along the entire length of the inner corner with a knife or a small grinder. Next, liquid nails are applied generously to the inside of the corner, the corner is placed in the inner already tiled corner, leveled and lightly pressed with your palms along its entire length.

Attention! The second method of fixing with liquid nails with cutting off one of the shelves can only be used in the case of installing a vertical internal corner. If you are installing a horizontal internal corner, for example, at the junction of the wall and the floor, then you should not install the baguette in this way. The fastening is not reliable and soon the corner will move away from the surface of the tile.

If you still have some unclear questions when choosing the optimal corner for ceramic tiles, it would be a good idea to watch a video with tips and installation instructions from experienced tilers.

Despite its declining popularity, the plastic corner still has many fans. Mainly due to the simplicity of the corner design. And if the color of the corner and the tile completely match, this can be considered a good solution. But the colors of plastic are not as abundant as those of ceramics. Tiles of the same color can have many shades. Even from different batches of the same tiles. A plastic corner has a maximum of 2-3 shades for one color. The discrepancy in the color of the outer corner and the tiles disrupts the visual picture. This can be considered one of the disadvantages of this method.

The shade of the plastic corner does not match the tile

How to choose the size of the corner.

The beauty of an external corner depends largely on proper installation and the correct size. The corner must be selected according to the thickness of the tile. The tile should fit into the corner, and the plastic should not stick out above the surface of the cladding. The “x” height can have several values. It is possible to select the profile you need for a specific tile.

Dependence of the size of the outer corner on the thickness of the tile

There is one nuance at this point. When purchasing a corner, you need to know whether the tiles on the corner will be whole or cut. The difference in thickness between the edge and the middle of the tile (in some specimens) reaches 1.5-2 mm. If you select an outer corner for a whole tile, but you have to join the cut edge, the end of the tile may not close. Such moments can be frequent. After all, an irreplaceable advantage of a plastic corner is the ability to hide the cut part of the tile.

How to install an outer corner.

A flaw in the design of the plastic corner is a small covering protrusion. It is no more than one mm. This protrusion covers the end of the tile on one side of the corner. On the second side of the corner, the tile fits into the profile after installing the corner.

For this reason, the tiles on the corner must be aligned with a wedge. Otherwise, the corner will not fit tightly and cracks will appear. In case of large deviation, the edges of the tiles can be straightened or cut along the line, as in our case.

Leveling the slope for installing a corner

Installation of plastic occurs during laying of tiles on coal. To do this, one side of the corner must be laid out. A corner is rubbed onto it using tile adhesive. The glue fits into the slots in the plastic and holds it in place. Excess glue must be removed. It will give thickness. And the tile will stick out above the corner if it is chosen correctly.

Removing excess glue from a plastic profile

The second tile will cover the plastic ledge and finally secure the corner to the wall.

A short video on installing a plastic corner on the end of a tile at a corner.

Another option for installing a plastic corner:

Modern tile corners only seem to be a simple and not always necessary decorative element. With their correct selection and high-quality installation, laying tiles is much faster, and the resistance of the entire surface to mechanical and hydraulic tests increases significantly.

Why install fittings when laying on tiles?

The functionality of plastic and metal corners for tiles is very diverse. It's safe to say that uh These elements are among the most underestimated when working with ceramic tiles - just look at the list of operational benefits from using corners:

1. Easy to lay tiles at joints and corners. As you know, this stage of work is always associated with trimming facing ceramics, be it tiling a porch or installing it in sanitary facilities. Without corners, you need to cut tiles perfectly precisely - with them, the “range” of tile sizes can be measured in centimeters, depending on the dimensions of the decorative elements.
2. Low labor intensity of “corner tile work”. For long service life and an attractive design, the mating of ceramics must be done with a chamfer at 45˚, and for this you will have to grind the back side of each tile on a grinder or an emery machine; manually, such a procedure will require many tedious hours of monotonous labor.
3. The outer corner, lined according to the procedure described above, will be sharp. So sharp that even adults can easily get hurt on it. For children, sharpened tiles pose a serious danger, especially taking into account the constant moisture of the floors in the bathroom. Installing any corner is guaranteed to eliminate this risk factor.
4. Insulation of joints from moisture. Any tiled surface will definitely have mounting gaps; they are the most difficult to fill in the corners. Over time, any fugue or solution tends to crumble and fly out, which fungi, mold and colonies of moisture-loving microorganisms are only too happy about, but the same cannot be said about the owners of a recently renovated bathroom or kitchen.
5. A tile corner lined with metal or even plastic becomes much stronger against mechanical tests - accidental impacts, sudden movements when installing massive plumbing fixtures, etc.
6. Decorative variations of such finishing of ceramic joints and turns are also very significant - the number of colors and textures of tile corners is measured in dozens.

Corner finishing of turns and joints of ceramic cladding is relevant primarily for bathrooms, kitchens and toilets, but it is also used for original renovations in halls, corridors and even in living rooms. The work is similar to installing a joint between laminate and tiles, with the exception of lower requirements for the impact and mechanical strength of overhead joints.

Aluminum, plastic or ceramic - which one to choose?

There are several types of corners for facing tiles on the market.

This is a unique list

• aluminum - made of special alloys;
• plastic - made of polymers, quite flexible, which is a plus during installation;
• ceramic is the most expensive of tile fittings.

You should select corners taking into account the required length, width, and color. When choosing a material, pay attention to quality, design and ease of processing.

Photo gallery: types of decorative fittings for ceramic tiles

Installation of plastic corner fittings is simple, but it also has its secrets. The easiest way is to line the outer joint with plastic - due to its light weight it will adhere to any waterproof sealant; the work can be done on already laid tiles. The flexibility of plastic also plays a beneficial role, allowing the finishing fittings to be bent, repeating minor irregularities of the mounted ceramics.

Installing the corner is easy

However, there is another way to install corners for tiles made of plastic and aluminum; it is used for horizontal turns - when decorating shelves for bathrooms, aprons, “boots”, etc. The method involves removing the lower part of the structure with high horizontal accuracy and subsequent installation immediately the corner and the top tile. The corner element has a wide bottom shelf, which is located between the top tile and the base surface, that is, it is immured in the mortar. Internal corners are made in the same way, with the fittings cemented.

Metal one-sided and double-sided fittings can play the role of beacons when installed on the vertical corners of a room being renovated, both external and internal. This method of finishing is fundamentally different from the final gluing of corners, because with it the decorative corners at the same time act as guides, beacons for the entire tile cloth.

Let's consider the case of a comprehensive renovation in a bathroom, with the ceiling facing with plastic panels and the walls and floor with tiles. We will assume that the old finish has been successfully removed and the new plumbing has already been installed, connected and tested. Before installing plastic and ceramics, the shower stall and sink will have to be removed - they will only interfere with the finishing work. You won’t be able to remove a new bathtub even if you want to, so it should be carefully covered with thick cellophane.

Pay special attention to all drain holes so that construction debris does not get into them - both in the bathroom itself and those intended for the shower stall and sink.

It is unwise to nail slats next to newly installed ceramics. The plastic ceiling itself is installed after laying the tiles on the walls, but the frame for it is nailed in advance: strictly level, exactly horizontally, from slats of considerable width - it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the tiles and mortar on the walls.

It is preceded by a thorough measurement of the floor and walls, searching for the deepest points. One of the common mistakes in pre-installing corners for tiles, external and internal, is precisely the incorrect installation clearance. Or it turns out to be too large, and then preliminary plastering of the wall surface is required. Or, on the contrary, as the ceramic surface grows, there is not enough space for the last tiles, and you have to cut down the wall, which is even worse.

You need to take measurements first

The installation of corners is carried out from the ceiling to the surface of the finished floor. Each element is attached in at least 3-4 places per meter; fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws to plastic plugs driven into the walls. It is very important to accurately orient each beacon corner. It should not just be positioned strictly vertically.

The corner must be installed strictly vertically without gaps

The outer shelves of each corner must be placed parallel to the “neighbor” on the same wall. Therefore, self-tapping screws are first “fastened”, and only after achieving the required accuracy are they tightened. At the same time, you can mount the same corners to the floor - this will give a finished look to the design of the entire room and will facilitate the tiled stage of its finishing.

The corner should be pressed tightly against the tile

Laying tiles on smooth beacon corners is a pleasure. The work starts at the top, where the solid tiles look attractive. It is much preferable to trim the very bottom row than to place “offcuts” at the top. For each parallel row, a fishing line is stretched, and the tiles march along it, like drilled soldiers on a parade ground. If the shelves are wide enough, trimming the final tiles can even be done with nippers, since all irregularities will be hidden by decorative corners.

Video: installing plastic corners for facing tiles

Of course, you can lay out the walls and floor with tiles without corners at all. Or limit yourself to decoration using plastic skirting boards at the final stage of finishing. But the corners will ensure long-term reliability and give a neat appearance, protecting the cladding from all adversity and protecting you from sharp ceramics.

Nowadays, tiles are a fairly popular type of cladding. And rarely is a bathroom renovation complete without it. If the layout of ceramic elements for home craftsmen rarely causes difficulties after some training, then the inner corner or outer corner confuses many. However, manufacturers have already taken the trouble to solve this dilemma by producing fairly simply designed parts called tile corners.

What is this article about?

Types of corner elements

So, to solve the problem of competently joining the coating at the corners, you can use special elements. Moreover, experienced craftsmen have become acquainted with them and use them in their work for quite a long time. They know that a tile corner is a very convenient and easy-to-use device. If we characterize such parts, then in general they can be described as elongated strips with corresponding grooves for inserting ceramic edges into them, through which the evenness of the cladding at the joints is ensured. Due to them, it is possible to partially mask defects in the material (ceramics or plastic), the possibility of which cannot be excluded when cutting off the facing elements.

Typically, the length of the corners for ceramic tiles is no more than 250 cm. These mounting elements make the cladding more concise and complete. Why does the room only benefit? The characteristics of the junction dictate their conditions for the installation of one or another type of element. For example, at an external joint, the ends of the ceramics will regularly experience mechanical stress.

To prevent this, they are strengthened. If the corners of the tiles are strengthened, the coating will better cope with the emerging loads that inevitably appear in the bathroom. The joints with the corners will be safe, and their service life will increase. Sometimes in stores you can find another name for tile corners - trims. Some manufacturers of building accessories call this tile element this way. Despite the name, the following types of corners are distinguished based on the base material:

Aluminum - will be appropriate where ceramics of 2 or 3 shades are combined in the corner zone and where a color plastic trim cannot solve the task assigned to it. And all thanks to the reliability and neutrality of the color of such an element. In addition, the color of the aluminum fittings is a good complement to the metal parts in the shower stall.

Plastic - made of polyvinyl chloride profile, they have a wide range of colors. These are lightweight, flexible and waterproof elements. Due to the light weight of PVC parts, it is possible to glue them to the joint with a silicone sealant after laying the ceramic coating. When installing a shower stall, this is the most indispensable option.

Metal - these corners for bathroom tiles are made of metal, they are wear-resistant and reliable. To cope with their role as fixing elements, they must be perfectly even. Since even a slight distortion will affect the laying of the cladding. They are made from stainless metal. Such corners for laying tiles can be found in gold or silver; they often have a nickel or chrome coating on the front side.

Ceramic - they allow you to mask seams, waterproof them, and give the entire cladding an aesthetic appearance. Their distinctive feature is that they have a pattern, exactly the same as on a tile cloth. Ceramic products are not cheap and usually come in addition to one or another tile collection.

There are differences not only in materials, but also in which corner the product belongs to (internal or external). In addition, trims differ in the installation method - for horizontal or vertical installation. There are also differences in the angles for tiles in their sizes. The latter have certain designations, reflected in the numbering from 6 to 12. The digital value indicates the distance from the base of the product to its edge line. Craftsmen select trim sizes, which are always 1 mm larger than the tiles. For example, for 7 mm tiles they take trims number 8.

The difference between PVC and metal fittings

The most popular are plastic corner profiles, as well as metal ones. Often consumers get confused in choosing, not knowing which one is better. The difference between them is not very big, but it is there. Metal products will last a little longer, however, plastic samples have not gone very far in this regard. A bonus from metal is the richness of the color range and the presence of noble shades in it. If the interior of the room allows, you can purchase accessories in a golden hue or with a chrome top. Such accessories contribute to a significant transformation of the room.

But the advantage of plastic products is the ease of working with them. It is easy to cut using the simplest tool available in every home. Corner elements of this type are made from PVC, which is a practical solution, especially for bathrooms. Because this material is absolutely not afraid of mold or fungi. An additional advantage of plastic is its low price.

Application nuances

When planning to purchase corner elements, you need to focus on their parameters and know exactly the quantity. The number is selected according to the thickness of the tile elements. If the thickness is different, the number is selected according to the largest value. The length of the joining elements is calculated by summing the estimated lengths of the joints from the inside and outside. Internal joints are usually masked along the entire length and up to the ceiling. When purchasing, you should stock up on one additional element in case of trimming.

In addition to numbering and length, corner parts are selected according to one more significant parameter - color. Since plastic and metal corners for tiles have the widest selection for this criterion, it is good to have a sample of ceramics with you when purchasing.

Mounting external elements

The sequence of actions when installing corners on the cladding from the outside will be:

1. Having cut off the excess length of the outer profile, it is tried on to the wall corner;
2. The edges of the tiles are inserted into the grooves on each side. Having tried it on, set marks and put the parts aside for now;
3. The corner surface is coated with glue, a profile is applied to it, all the time adhering to the mark;
4. Using a notched trowel, glue is applied to the tile, pressed into the grooves of the corner, and pressed with the profile to the wall. 5. The elements on the opposite side are treated in the same way;
5. External surfaces are cleaned of traces of mixtures, the tiled surface is wiped dry;
6. Both tiles with a corner (regardless of the type of material used) are fixed with construction tape. Hold the tape until the glue dries. Which takes about a day.

Mounting internal elements

To effectively decorate the internal joint in the finishing, take an internal tile corner. In this case, the profile size must be larger than the thickness of the cladding. To carry out proper installation, proceed in this order (in this case, the ceramics must be laid towards the internal joint):

1. The surface of the element is treated with glue in the place where it begins to join the adjacent tile in the corner area;
2. Having covered the wall with an adhesive layer, they “seat” the internal profile. 3. The tile is set into the groove and glued. To maintain a gap with the previous one, the seam is wedged using a construction cross;
3. Do the same with the tiles on the opposite side of the internal joint;
4. Place the required number of rows. The row on top is finished with a finishing profile, if necessary;
5. After 24 hours, the seam gaps are filled with decorative grout mixture.

Regardless of the chosen sample of connecting fittings (made of PVC, ceramics, metal or plastic), a room decorated with it will look stylish and expensive. If it is impossible to independently establish them for one reason or another, you can always turn to the help of professionals.