Do-it-yourself I-beams. What are false ceiling beams - options for false beams, do-it-yourself installation methods Homemade wood floor beam

Time does not stand still, so old technologies are being replaced by new ones - light, practical and environmentally friendly. A wooden beam has always been popular, but only in the 21st century did they come to the manufacture of an I-beam from wood, which made it possible to significantly refine the frame construction.

Main parameters of the product

With each new season, this material increases its popularity. It is usually used for frame construction, installation of floors, ceilings and partitions, as well as roofing. The specific appearance of the Latin letter "I" with bars at the top and bottom allows installation to be carried out quite simply and quickly.

There are several advantages due to which the I-beam has gained its popularity: it does not bend, wear resistance, lack of reaction to moisture (does not rot), low weight and at the same time a relatively low price due to reduced wood consumption.

If you look at the product in detail, you can see that it is not solid, but consists of several elements. OSB (oriented strand board) or plywood is taken as the basis, the blocks below and above are made of glued laminated timber, and all this is connected with water-based wood glue. Glued laminated timber has special recesses of the required width, which allow you to immerse OSB in them, thanks to which the structure acquires its highest reliability.

In factory conditions, 4 machines are used for such a process:

Milling. On such a machine, not only a longitudinal trench is made in the timber, but also polishing is carried out so as not to injure the skin later during operation.
OSB cutting. It works in parallel with the milling machine in order to cut the required amount of slab with perfectly accurate parameters on time. The cuts are made at an angle of 45°.
Gluing. A thin layer of glue is applied to the bottom of the trench in the bars, after which a plate is inserted between the 2 bars, and the entire structure is pressed at the exit.
Press. Depending on the glue used, the machine holds the workpiece (0.5-2 min.) under pressure, after which it rolls further for final drying.

The work takes place at a very high speed, but not everyone decides to purchase such products, because with manual production, the price is 1.5-3 times lower.

Handwritten study

Tools and materials:

timber;
roulette;
a circular saw;
wood glue;
channel;
clamps;
sandpaper.

Here the whole process is much slower, but the price drops significantly. Do-it-yourself I-beam is made in stages:

I-beams are made of timber, OSB and channel.

The bars are selected. The cross section depends on the preferences of the master, but not less than 35 * 25 mm. The larger the bar, the more reliable the design, but the step by 2 I-beams will have to be significantly increased during operation.
Here you should choose what to use - an electric saw, a chainsaw or a stationary circular saw. The advantage of chain saws is that they can initially make a trench of 10-12 mm, but they need to be additionally fixed. In addition, their work is much more expensive than that of a circular. With a special desire, you can find cutters of the desired thickness for a circular saw (they cost a little more than usual), after which you can continue to work.
The depth of the furrow is set (10% of the total length of the OSB). With a total loss of 1/5 of the length, perfect fixation can be achieved.
Beams are cut. At the same stage, they need to be sanded with a grinder or sandpaper.
Glue is applied to the bottom of the trench, after which the slab is immersed in it. Immediately, a similar process is done with 1 more bar, and an I-beam can be pressed.
Not every house has a hydraulic press, so you can use a channel, which is pulled together with 2 belts and carabiners (improvised clamps). Such an I-beam screed is no less effective than a press, although more troublesome.

In total, the manufacture of 1 I-beam takes up to 30 minutes. but if you do it on a stream, then the speed will increase several times. That is, first, for example, 100 beams are cut, which are polished, then 50 plates are cut, after which all this is to be glued. With such work, the average production speed of 1 I-beam can drop to 8-10 minutes. but in no case should you rush, so as not to make a mistake.

Wooden floors look organically in Scandinavian, classic, Victorian, rustic interiors, as well as in a room decorated country style And provence. High-tech design involves the use of beams, however, here they are more functional, emphasizing restraint and conciseness.

Often the project involves painting the floors. For example, in the Provence style, light shades are used, expressing tenderness, airiness and comfort. And here chalet or the alpine style is sustained in natural tones, where rough beams of coniferous wood fit perfectly, and often directly with bark. This design can be seen in the photo of a snow-covered house in the mountains.

decorative beams

So, wooden and metal beams are the lot of country houses. But what to use in an urban dwelling, if there was a desire to recreate a certain style? This is where polyurethane beams come to the rescue. They are light in weight, due to which you can install them on the ceiling with your own hands, unlike metal ones, the installation of which is trusted only by professionals. In terms of financial and labor costs, polyurethane beams are the best option with a small budget for repairs, as they will not hit your wallet hard. They are solid or hollow, in the latter view you can mount spotlights and hide the wiring inside. In addition, decorative beams on the ceiling are represented by a different color and texture palette, most often an imitation of wood is created.

Design with ceiling beams

In any interior, special attention is paid to details. You can beat the ceiling in whole or in part, make fancy or strict designs. There are a lot of examples of laying beams, just look at the photo and repeat it in your interior or arrange it according to your taste and discretion. European design is now at the peak of popularity, when the ceiling ceilings are gradually moving to the wall. There are a huge number of styling techniques, here everything is limited by imagination. You can also process the draft ceiling and create the desired design in the following ways:

Brushing. With its help, an imitation of a clear outline of the texture of a tree is created. You can even make traces of the bark beetle. The beams on the ceiling designed in this way will give the impression that the ceilings are already 200 years old.

Invoice processing - this is the aging of wood by artificial means. It is achieved with the help of a special type of brushes and rough planing.
Vintage style - carried out with the use of paints and varnishes, as a result of which the wooden floors take on the appearance of ancient ones.

How to position overlays?

There are various ways to make a room wider or longer. Beams on the ceiling are arranged according to the purpose that the design suggests:

You can make the room wider by placing them on a short wall.
The length of the room will visually increase if the floors are laid in the length of the entire ceiling.
Imitation of the volume of the room is achieved by a coffered ceiling, with the beams arranged crosswise.
You can select the desired area in the house with several or one beam. When designing a kitchen, highlighting looks spectacular bar counter one beam.

Isn't it easier to skillfully beat such a construction? For this, lighting solutions are used, such as LED strip decoration, recessed and pendant lights that fit into the design of the room.

Interesting! LED lighting, laid on top of the beam, creates a feeling of a floating structure.

Interior design, as a rule, involves a combination of the design of all surfaces in the house with textile furniture. This can be taken into account when painting the beams by applying a predominant pattern or relief to them, as well as focusing on the details and painting the beams on the ceiling so that they play in contrast. Now a huge number of photos are presented, according to which it will not be difficult to arrange a draft ceiling.

Making wooden beams with your own hands is a very profitable and profitable activity that anyone can start! The wooden lamp is mainly used for making flooring, which creates a very solid and high-quality foundation for the future.

This type of beam appeared relatively recently, but has already managed to gain popularity and popularity among builders. The I-beam has been successfully used in the technology of building houses in the country, which helps not only speed up, but also reduce the cost of building a house.

Load specifications for wood beams

According to its technical characteristics, a wooden I-grill is no worse than metal and concrete structures, but it costs several times less.

It is also worth mentioning how to increase the overpressure capacity by providing I-beams. For example:

They are located in close proximity (horizontally). 2 I-beams add their power to the load.
This means that if one beam costs 300 kg, then 600 kg is covered in combination with the same carrier.
Beveled brackets at the top of the other (vertically) can hold 4 times the load. That is, if you give one 300 kg power beam while it is in the same upper position and anchors it with you, a couple of them are fed by a 1200 kg weight.

Note. All data are based on a slab load calculation of approximately 400 kg/m2.

Of course, the calculations must also take into account:

quality of materials;
carrier frequency;
size tolerance.

If you want to save money on building your own home or go into a business selling I-beams, then it should be noted that there is nothing particularly difficult about making this floor in the house there.

Wooden i-beams for the floor and attic allow you to complete the whole process with your own hands. After imposing on wooden beams, it is carried out without the use of cranes and other auxiliary equipment.

The whole process can be done by one master. This transformation is non-binding and has many other advantages.

Types of wooden beams

First, let's get acquainted with the variety of this building material. There are the following types of I-beams:

BDK (I-ray glue).
It is used in the construction of houses with short ranges.
BDKU, BDKU-L. Such carriers have wide walls, they are very strong and have a large surface for fastening to the mooring.
SDKU, SDKU-L. This I-pillar is the foundation of the walls.
BDASH, BDSS-L. Buildings with very long ranges use a wide beam. It can also be used as a rafter.
SDCSH, SDCSH-L. The bracket is suitable for making wall panels.

DIY wooden beam

For a successful launch, you need a tape measure, a circular saw, wood glue, a channel, a clamp, and a grinder.

The main materials for production will be glued laminated timber and plywood, which can be replaced by OSB (Oriented-Struzhechnaya Plate).

The glued beam is easy to obtain in all construction warehouses. It is characterized by high lightness, reliability and durability, soft processing and is therefore ideal for the manufacture of wooden beams.

A strong bonded plate or OSB is required to make a center reinforcement that will be inserted on both sides into the prepared laminated beam.

Overview of the characteristics and use of I-beams in the construction of houses

How to make a wooden beam with beams with your own hands:

In the lower and upper glued bearings, pre-cut to the same length of the required length, we cut a groove of the appropriate depth.
This is the basis of our beam.
Then we prepare reinforcements. Make sure there are no mistakes or irregularities on his cheeks.
If available, drink the edge or replace it with a new one.
The last step is to secure the rebar in the grooves cut in the bar. For this purpose, a special glue is used, which ensures reliable attachment of the elements to each other.
After that, check that the beam is in full condition during drying.
At this time, it is absolutely forbidden to move and wear!

During the production process, there will be a lot of sawdust for the production of briquettes.

I-rays are one of the most important elements of the future home, which has a constant load, so you need to approach it with the greatest responsibility.

Profitability of business ideas

On average, the production of one I-beam lasts about 30 minutes. But if you do many parts at the same time, the time consumption is greatly reduced.

For example, make 20 I-beams at a time. First, 40 glued beams are cut, then 20 amps are cut and polished, then the whole thing is glued sequentially. You will need about 3-4 hours here and spend about 10 hours producing the pieces.

The average production for a spontaneous 5m I-beam without assistance is about 70 pieces per day.

As we have already pointed out, there is no need to prevent the slightest error.

The retail price of wooden beams is $4.8 per meter (height 200 mm, section 42 x 85, weight 5 kg/m). And the price per meter of the current meter is less than 3.5 US dollars. Therefore, the profitability of this case is quite high, which makes the production of I-beams even more attractive.

In the calculations, take a clear average length of 5 meters and get an income of $ 25 from one beam. It's not hard to calculate with active sales, you can reach $2000 per month.

Make sure you have a large workshop. But if the volume of production is growing, then you can do it with your own garage. Also, take care to buy a professional round plate. The purchase price is about 700 USD.

This type of building materials is in high demand among consumers.

What is an I-beam (I-beam)?

I-beam - long products, which has a wide scope. The product is a horizontal bar made of steel, the section of which is made in the shape of the letter "H".

Do-it-yourself interfloor ceilings on wooden I-beams

The lower and upper belts of the product are connected by means of a wall.

I-beam: types and sizes

Currently, several types of I-beams are being produced: they are classified depending on the design features. The edges of the shelves can be parallel or at an angle.

As a rule, products are made using carbon or low alloy steel.

Thus, I-beams are classified depending on:

the material used for their production;
scope and purpose;
manufacturing technologies;
the location of the edges of the shelves and their slope.

The operational and geometric characteristics of I-beams allow them to be used in many areas.

As a rule, products are used to solve construction problems. They are indispensable in the construction of large buildings. In this case, with their help, load-bearing structures are formed.
The technical characteristics of I-beams allow them to withstand significant loads. It is because of this that they can be used to create floors that are subjected to large vertical or horizontal loads during operation.
Products of this type are conveniently used for the construction of bridge structures, overhead tracks and supports.

In some cases, they are used in the engineering field.
It should be noted that in the production of I-beams, various GOSTs can be used:

GOST 8239-89 defines limits on the slope for internal faces (6-12%).
These are general purpose products.
GOST 19425-74. I-beams for special purposes, created in accordance with these requirements, must have an inclination angle of not more than 12% for category "M" and not more than 16% for category "C".

When choosing an I-beam, you should pay attention to its processing.

Products that are thoroughly cleaned of rust, dirt, grease and other contaminants are considered to be of high quality.

DIY wooden I-beam

Today we will consider the standards used in the manufacture of various I-beams, give their description and applications.

I-beams - description and characteristics

To date, I-beams, including a variety of I-beams 40, are one of the most common variations of steel beams, which, in fact, determines such an extensive range of this material presented on the domestic construction market.

One of the main distinguishing characteristics of the material is the cross section of the H-like configuration, made in the form of a wall and two shelves, which provides the product with additional mechanical rigidity. It is because of this that the use of I-beams is especially important in situations where increased resistance to external loads and bends is required. The unique design of the I-beam 36m allows it to distribute the operating loads evenly over its entire area, thus reducing the risks associated with the occurrence of various emergency situations.

The range of I-beams is subject to strict regulation by the state, acting as a single and immutable standard, binding on all manufacturers. This means that the entire range of I-beams produced today, including the I-beam 35b1, must fully comply with the stated requirements, and their characteristics must not go beyond the current regulatory parameters.

Production standards used in the manufacture of I-beams

In the production of I-beams, a number of state standards (GOST) are used, including:

19425 and 8239 - a standard regulating the manufacture of a steel I-beam with a slope of internal edges, its dimensions and characteristics;
26020 - this standard regulates the technological process for the production of I-beams with parallel edges;
19425 - contains all the necessary data on the manufacture of special purpose beams;
TU - for specific types of products, including the I-beam 24, produced on the basis of a preliminary agreement with customers.

Main technical aspects of I-beams

As for a more detailed classification of goods, the table of the most significant parameters for the user includes the following:

Products with parallel edges can be normal, with a medium, narrow or wide shelf, column;
An I-beam, the edges of which are located under a slope, is available in the following variations: ordinary, unmarked, special ("M"), used in the arrangement of complex structures with suspended geometry, special ("C"), relevant in the construction of specialized structures with a complex structure, can be equipped with narrow shelves, but with an excessively elongated middle part;
Based on the accuracy of rolled products, I-beam 100 is divided into the following categories: A - high accuracy, B - ordinary accuracy;

Depending on the type of product, its size and conditions of use, the I-beam 50 may have the following marking:

Scope of use

The scope of the material is quite extensive and includes the following areas:

Industrial and single construction of buildings and structures of varying complexity and geometry;
Construction of responsible projects, including various crossings, bridges and others;
Construction of other structures requiring increased strength with an insignificant total weight of the structure;
Guides for crane systems of industrial type.

Conclusion

In conclusion, it should be said that modern I-beams, and I-beam 50 is no exception here, are an unusually reliable, versatile and sought-after material, which, thanks to a competent combination of its parameters and affordable prices, is in deserved demand among domestic consumers, leaving many competitive offers of imported production far behind. .

Buildings that are built by the frame method are becoming more and more popular. The frame method allows you to save on construction, as it is considered inexpensive.

Working hours are also reduced. An I-beam or an I-beam is an indispensable assistant in the field of construction. Thanks to this article, you will receive useful information about manufacturing technology, as well as learn how to make wooden I-beams without help.

Even taking into account the reasonable price, many users are wondering: is it not better to make an I-beam on their own?

Firstly, you will not need to pay money for its transportation, and secondly, there will be no problems with fitting at the installation site either. Let's take a closer look at how the production of wooden I-beams at home looks like.

What material to choose?

The fact that the beams are made of wood is known to everyone. But what wood is right for you? As practice shows, it is best to take a wooden glued beam.

It is good because it is least prone to deformation. Of course, it is impossible to exclude moisture absorption.

Do-it-yourself I-beams - it's easy!

However, compared to other types of wooden blanks, the timber really hardly absorbs liquid.

The question of breed choice also remains open. To answer it, it is enough to remember how our ancestors built houses. Particular attention was paid to the lower crown, which had to be protected from moisture. Most often, larch was taken for a log house.

Unlike other species (including conifers), larch contains a special resin that gives unique properties to the material. When wet, the strength of the tree only increases.

The rack can be made from OSB or plywood.

On sale there is an I-beam wooden beam in a different design. But if the manufacturing work will be carried out at home, be guided by the above materials. OSB is somewhat stronger and more durable, as they have a special structural composition.

Oddly enough, but few people pay attention to such material as glue. But in vain. Varieties of this substance differ from each other not only in quality, but also in toxicity. Be sure to consider this fact when you buy glue.

Before purchasing, familiarize yourself with its composition, especially if the installation will be carried out in a residential building. The less "chemistry" in the composition, the better.

Beam production technology

Unlike metal beams, an I-beam is made according to a completely different principle.

No welding or casting is used. Wooden beams are assembled like a designer from the following elements: top plank, bottom plank, wall. Each item is made separately. The presence of grooves simplifies the assembly process; glue is used for additional fixation.

Almost all manufacturers in the manufacturing process use the following types of machines and nozzles:

Milling machine.
Allows you to make a groove for fastening (up to 10% of the beam length). Naturally, not every private user can afford a router. You can replace it with a circular saw or a hand saw.
Cutting machine.
It is important not only to cut the blanks to size, but also to make the most accurate cuts at an angle of 45 degrees.
Gluing unit. Simplifies and significantly speeds up the process of applying glue before assembly.
Press for gluing. When the assembly is completed, the finished product is dried under pressure. 5 minutes will be enough.

Assembly of the I-beam

Production begins with the rejection and thorough drying of wood.

When the material is ready for use, you can proceed:

Plank manufacturing. Perhaps the most important technological stage. The reliability and durability of the beams, their ability to withstand the design load will depend on the accuracy of the marking. Even a minimal distortion of the wall should not be allowed. Sampling is carried out strictly along the center line of the workpiece. This nuance must also be taken into account when marking parts for an I-beam, regardless of the parameters of the bar itself.

Many users are interested in: what should be the depth of the groove?

Our advice is to focus on the dimensions of the wall. The recommended selection is about 10% of the length of the I-beam.

Wall. Since it is mounted in the grooves of the beam, the corresponding edges must be bevelled. The assembly process is quite simple and comes down to greasing the grooves with glue, installing it in the workpiece and laying the beam on top. Pressed, leveled - ready!

What is the feature of the work?

It is important not only to achieve a fit of all elements to each other, but also to exclude any distortions while the glue dries.

We advise you to take any hardware with a suitable profile. For example, a channel for the size of the strips. Sheet metal is bent, it is given the desired shape. It remains only to put the parts on the I-beam from below, and fix them from above with a rope or a clamp.

We deliberately bypassed the calculation of the parameters of an I-beam.
It is really easy to assemble it yourself, but only professionals can calculate the load. Only an experienced specialist can determine the required thickness, width.
Always dry wood before assembly. If this is not done, after installation, the support element can “lead”, and with it the entire structure.
It is not recommended to use board instead of plywood or OSB.
The materials mentioned above are hot-pressable, which means they are much denser.

Thus, there is nothing difficult either in preparing or assembling I-beams with your own hands. The main thing is to make competent engineering calculations, take into account all the features of operation.

The frame technology of construction of structures today is one of the most demanded in the construction market. In order to build a structure according to this technique, it is necessary to pay increased attention to the quality of materials that will be used in the future. I-beams are mainly used for these purposes.

I-beam made of wood, what it is and what it is used for

I-beams are a type of wooden floors.

During the manufacturing process, they acquire a T-shape on both sides. That is why this beam got its name I-beam.

In order to make such a building material at home, it is necessary to use glued beams. Due to its size, this beam has a very light weight and excellent strength characteristics. I-beams are the optimal material for the construction of low-rise buildings.

Such wooden floors make it possible to ensure the lightness of the whole structure. In addition, they will help save quite a significant amount of money and precious time.

Advantages of I-beams

Almost all people who have used floors of this type note the visible advantages of such beams:

elimination of the effect of audibility, which is usually inherent in wooden floors;
there is practically no deformation, which is inevitable over time;
thanks to the dimensions that are clearly fixed, they are extremely convenient to use;
differs in the increased degree of durability;
great for completely different surfaces, like ceiling, floor or walls;
very reasonable price;
almost completely absent various reactions to water, therefore, such an overlap does not rot;
this material has a low weight;
high degree of wear resistance;
reduced consumption of wood;
when applied, additional costs are almost completely minimized.

And this is not all the characteristic features that can be emphasized by reading the reviews of a large number of people.

Is it possible to make an I-beam yourself

Many people who decide to build a structure from wooden floors prefer to purchase materials produced in a factory.

But few people know how this process takes place.

How to make wooden I-beams with your own hands - step by step instructions

Initially, a milling machine is used in production, with its help the necessary trench is made, as well as grinding. After that, the product is sent for OSB cutting, this allows you to most accurately cut the details of the desired parameters. The next step is gluing the resulting parts. Finally, a specialized press is used.

Agree, if you wish, you can perform such a process yourself without much difficulty.

I-beams wooden building beams are used as load-bearing and other elements for the installation of ceilings, walls and other elements in low-rise, country, cottage construction. The demand for this building material is explained by an affordable price, in comparison with steel counterparts, ease of installation, processing and operation, and good strength characteristics.

Prefabricated wooden I-beam or OSB I-beam is a standard profile of structural elements made of wood with a cross-sectional shape close to the letter "H".

The beam is assembled from two bars with a strip of OSB-plate embedded between them. The connection of all elements occurs with the help of special adhesive compositions.

In frame construction, due to the constant and correct geometric dimensions of wooden I-beams, everything can be made from such beams: walls, interfloor ceilings, truss systems and other load-bearing structures.

The production of wooden OSB beams is characterized by simplicity of organization and an affordable technological process. It is enough to purchase a production line. Consumables: OSB sheet, dried timber and glue.

It would seem that the design of the beams is so simple that you involuntarily wonder - how to make a wooden I-beam with your own hands?

Let's answer it. You can make such a beam with your own hands, and the tool you need is quite simple: a marking tool, cutting saws and a router with interchangeable nozzles. OSB sheets are cut into strips of the desired height, in the beam of the desired section, we select a groove of the desired geometric dimensions.

After that, the prepared elements only need to be connected to each other using glue or other methods (nails, self-tapping screws, etc.): by inserting the OSB strips into the grooves on the timber. But, you can only do this for yourself. And then with caution.

For sale, and even more so for the opening of production, it is required to use specialized automatic production lines. Which will ensure the production of beams with constant quality and accurate geometric dimensions. Such production cannot be repeated using hand tools. Indeed, even a minimal difference in the thickness of the applied adhesive affects the reliability of the structure as a whole, which can lead to general unreliability.

And this, at least, is a complaint to the company or even worse. The very technology for the production of beams appeared as a side technology for the construction of frame houses. The world's most reputable manufacturers of such beams and, accordingly, frame houses from them are Nascor and Steico. They are also the suppliers of production lines for OSB-I-beams. The mention of these companies, for those who are familiar with the technology, is a kind of “quality mark” and local production.

In Russia, production is usually based on the technical specifications TU 5366-001-49828710-2001 or TU 5366-002-96226217-2008 "I-Beams and Racks". Although this is not true. Each equipment manufacturer can develop and obtain their own specifications. In multi-storey and responsible construction, wooden I-beams are not used, therefore there are no general GOSTs.

The correct formula for the production of wooden I-beams is "wood + OSB + wood". To reduce the cost of production, unscrupulous entrepreneurs use the formula "wood + plywood + wood", which is unacceptable, since plywood has more disadvantages compared to OSB.

The I-section provides high strength characteristics. The use of OSB avoids all the disadvantages inherent in pure wood.

Also, due to the correct geometric dimensions, they save on building material. In construction, a smaller volume of beams is used (up to 60%) compared to conventional boards.

Proper installation avoids shrinkage and the appearance of squeaks, cracks inherent in frame structures assembled from ordinary beams and boards.

Video: wooden I-beams in frame construction

Necessary premises for the production of OSB-I-beams

For opening a business, the premises of former workshops, factories, hangars are suitable. The required area is considerable - 150-400 sq.

m. It is necessary to have all communications. Including power consumption production line.

Be sure to have spacious storage facilities for consumables and finished products.

List of equipment for the production of OSB-I-beams

For the manufacture of wooden I-beams, the following units are used:

receiving table; milling machine; grinding machine; adhesive installation; press for assembling beams; typesetting and hand tools.

It is also desirable to have a test bench, which will allow you to continuously monitor the quality of production.

The cost of one automatic line of domestic production with installation, adjustment, personnel training and start-up is from 2.8 million rubles.

Staff

To implement a business idea, you will need both qualified personnel with experience in the construction industry and with knowledge of the specifics of the use of certain building materials, as well as personnel with low labor qualifications.

For direct work in production, using automatic lines, a team of 4 people is required. Who will monitor the operation of the line, as well as load consumables and extract finished products.

For the entire production, a process engineer is required who is responsible for the quality of the products. If several automatic lines are used in production, then it is worth considering the presence of a fitter in the state who is responsible for setting up, adjusting and maintaining equipment. If there is only one line, then it is more expedient to periodically involve third-party specialists.

Also in production, a loader is needed, combining the functions of a driver. At the first stages, the business owner can deal with sales and promotion of services. Later, you can create a sales and marketing department.

Advertising

You need to advertise your services actively. This will require personal meetings and negotiations with construction firms and companies, the conclusion of contracts for the supply of I-beams through the shops and retail chains of the city, the use of Internet opportunities: a one-page business card site with photos of products, prices, production contacts; announcements on specialized sites and forums, active participation in building materials exhibitions.

With an unlimited budget, a commercial on local television or radio, installing a board or stretch marks around the city, in building materials markets will bring results. Do not neglect print advertising: promotional leaflets, business cards, newspaper ads.

Income, payback period

I-beams are sold, as a rule, in batches.

With an established sales system, it is realistic to sell up to 20 batches per month. Therefore, the income for this period will be up to 800 thousand rubles. Net monthly income minus rent, staff salaries, utilities, advertising, taxes, depreciation and funds for the purchase of materials - up to 200 thousand rubles.

The starting capital required to open your own business in the production of I-beams from wooden beams is up to 4 million rubles. Formed by the following articles:

purchase of equipment; rental of premises; staff salaries; raw materials; start-up advertising campaign; contingencies, etc.

The payback period for the production of I-beams OSB ranges from one and a half to five years.

More manufacturing business ideas:

Especially for hobiz.ru

With the growth of individual construction, I-beams have become increasingly popular in the private sector. Their advantages are a separate issue, but one of the advantages of supports of this type is worth noting.

Unlike metal counterparts, wood I-beams can be made by hand. How to do this is discussed in detail in this article. The scope of wooden I-beams is not limited to the arrangement of floors. They are widely used in the construction of frame structures, installation of decking, partitions and formwork.

Knowing the technology and a number of features of the industrial production of such products, you can make a sample of any size, for a specific use. After all, making an I-beam with your own hands means solving a number of problems. First, with the transportation of overall products. Secondly, with fitting it in place, since purchased copies may not fit exactly. This is not all that the market offers, but the design features of I-beams and their main sizes are clear.

Material selection

Wooden beams - a generalized concept. For the manufacture of an I-beam, not only solid wood is used, but also products based on it (slab, sheet, puff, pressed, and so on).

Supporting parts of the beam

Bruce only. Due to the correct geometry, such blanks are one of the best choices for the production of I-beams.

Another thing is what kind of beam? Since strength is of paramount importance for the support element, it is better to focus not on profiled blanks, but on glued ones. The difference between the two is well laid out here.

Separately, one should dwell on the type of tree. You can talk a lot on this topic, describing the pros and cons of a particular wood. The author recommends using larch or products that are made on its basis to assemble an I-beam.

Suffice it to recall that it was this tree that was always used for laying the lower crowns of log cabins. The reason is that by partially absorbing moisture, it becomes even stronger. Actually, what is required if you think about the reliability and durability of the support element.

beam post

If you assemble an I-beam with your own hands, then the best solution (although not the only one) is OSB boards or plywood sheets (multilayer).

Here it is necessary to take into account what kind of overlap in question. If the load is insignificant, then you can get by with cheaper FC sheets. For the construction of massive structures, definitely - oriented strand boards, as they are much stronger.

Glue

The recommendation is simple - if we are talking about the installation of ceilings or other structural elements in a residential building, then when choosing an adhesive for wood, you should pay close attention to its component composition. The less toxic substances, the better. Such adhesives are marked with the ECO designation.

The procedure for manufacturing a wooden I-beam

It is understood that the materials are dried, rejected and ready for use.

planks

The most important technological stage. The durability of the I-beam and its ability to hold the calculated load depend on how accurately the marking is made. Even the slightest distortion of the wall will have the most negative consequences.

Sampling of wood in a bar should be carried out strictly along the center line of the workpiece. This is taken into account when marking a wooden part for an I-beam. Moreover, regardless of the linear parameters of the bar.

A common question is - what is the depth of the groove in the timber? Here you need to focus on the dimensions of the wall. The recommended wood sampling is about 10% of the length of the I-beam.

Wall

Since it is installed in the grooves prepared in the beam, the corresponding edges of the sheet (plate) should be slightly hemmed.

Assembly of the I-beam

The manufacturing process itself, when everything is well organized, does not take much time.

Lubrication of the grooves in the slats with glue. Installation in the workpiece, which is the bottom, sheet or slab wall. Overlay of the timber from above, clamping and leveling.

Feature of work

It is necessary not only to achieve a snug fit of all parts of the I-beam, but also to avoid their distortion during the drying of the glue.

To do this, use any hardware with the appropriate profile. You can take a ready-made channel according to the size of the strips, bend the sheet metal, giving it the desired shape. All that remains is to put these details on the assembled I-beam from below and above and fix it with clamps or wrap it with a rope like a cocoon.

It is better to entrust the calculation of the parameters of an I-beam depending on the load to a professional. It is not difficult to assemble it with your own hands, but only a specialist in this field can independently determine the necessary parameters (for example, thickness, width of blanks). Having saved on paying for his services, you can subsequently lose much more on overhaul. You should not use products made according to a single template for different conditions of use.

Again, due to possible differences in maximum load. Purchased wood, even industrial drying, is characterized by a certain level of moisture. Before you start "designing" I-beams and assembling them with your own hands, the lumber should be kept for some time in conditions where they will dry out additionally. Otherwise, there is a risk that after installing the support element, it will lead, and with it the entire structure. Productivity can be significantly increased if the work on the manufacture of I-beams is properly organized.

Regardless of the size of the beams, they all have an identical design. Therefore, it is advisable to divide the preparation process into several stages. For example, cutting materials, grinding samples, their treatment with drugs (flame retardants, antiseptics), and so on.

When performing the same type of operations, time savings are evident. In this case, it will take 15 minutes, no more, to make one I-beam. The decision to use a board for the wall is not entirely correct. The materials recommended above from fragments of a tree (plywood, OSB) in the course of production are exposed to "hot" pressing.

Hence, they are characterized by high density. But you can't say the same about wood. Therefore, when assembling an I-beam, the board is used extremely rarely - with a small height of the product, and then, if necessary.

Moreover, only dense rocks are taken, and they are quite expensive. Yes, and their protection from moisture absorption will require more intensive processing. The conclusion is that such a decision is economically unjustified.

Actually, there is nothing complicated either at the stage of preparation or during the assembly of an I-beam with your own hands. If engineering calculations are made correctly, taking into account all the features of operation, then a home-made supporting element will turn out no worse than the factory one. And most importantly - exactly fit the installation site.

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Main parameters of the product

Handwritten study

Tools and materials:

The bars are selected.

In addition, their work is much more expensive than that of a circular. With a special desire, you can find cutters of the desired thickness for a circular saw (they cost a little more than usual), after which you can continue to work. The depth of the furrow is set (10% of the total length of the OSB). With a total loss of 1/5 of the length, perfect fixation can be achieved. The bars are cut.

Main parameters of the product

In factory conditions, 4 machines are used for such a process:

Milling. On such a machine, not only a longitudinal trench is made in the timber, but also polishing is carried out so as not to injure the skin later during operation. OSB cutting. It works in parallel with the milling machine in order to cut the required amount of slab with perfectly accurate parameters on time.

The cuts are made at an angle of 45°. Gluing. A thin layer of glue is applied to the bottom of the trench in the bars, after which a plate is inserted between the 2 bars, and the entire structure is pressed at the exit. Press. Depending on the glue used, the machine holds the workpiece (0.5-2 min.) under pressure, after which it rolls further for final drying.

The work takes place at a very high speed, but not everyone decides to purchase such products, because with manual production, the price is 1.5-3 times lower.

Handwritten study

Tools and materials:

timber; tape measure; circular saw; OSB; wood glue; channel bar; clamps; sandpaper.

Here the whole process is much slower, but the price drops significantly. Do-it-yourself I-beam is made in stages:

I-beams are made of timber, OSB and channel.

The bars are selected.

The cross section depends on the preferences of the master, but not less than 35 * 25 mm. The larger the bar, the more reliable the design, but the step by 2 I-beams will have to be significantly increased during operation. Here you should choose what to use - an electric saw, a chainsaw or a stationary circular saw. The advantage of chain saws is that they can initially make a trench of 10-12 mm, but they need to be additionally fixed.

In addition, their work is much more expensive than that of a circular. With a special desire, you can find cutters of the desired thickness for a circular saw (they cost a little more than usual), after which you can continue to work. The depth of the furrow is set (10% of the total length of the OSB). With a total loss of 15 lengths, perfect fixation can be achieved. Bars are cut.

At the same stage, they need to be sanded with a grinder or sandpaper. Glue is applied to the bottom of the trench, after which the plate is immersed in it. Immediately, a similar process is done with 1 more bar, and an I-beam can be pressed. Not every house has a hydraulic press, so you can use a channel that is pulled together with 2 belts and carabiners (improvised clamps). Such an I-beam screed is no less effective than a press, although more troublesome.

In total, the manufacture of 1 I-beam takes up to 30 minutes.

but if you do it on a stream, then the speed will increase several times. i.e.

first, for example, 100 beams are cut, which are polished, then 50 slabs are cut, after which all this is to be glued. With such work, the average production speed of 1 I-beam can drop to 8-10 minutes. but in no case should you rush, so as not to make a mistake.

Anyone can do such work if there is a special technique and basic skills in working with it.

It is very important not to forget about TB, so that later savings on building materials do not turn into hospital expenses.

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9 ways to make and fix ceiling beams with your own hands

In the interior, I have always liked minimalism: smooth smooth surfaces, a minimum of unnecessary details, a maximum of functionality. And lately I have been drawn to something more comfortable, even rustic. I'm still not ready for carving on furniture, an abundance of textiles, or a bunch of small pendants on a chandelier, but I really want to use such noticeable and space-changing details as decorative ceiling beams in the design.

And they just don't exist! Wooden, polyurethane, plastic, chipboard, MDF and drywall - for every taste and opportunity. You can buy ready-made or make your own. But in each case, the methods of fastening will be different.

Choice of design and construction of beams

Before you start doing something, you need to draw up a plan, think over the design, calculate the materials. After all, ceiling beams can not only decorate the interior, but also hide some surface defects, visually change the spatial perception of the room, and become a functional element of the house.

For example, you can use them to:

hide the joints of the plates on the ceiling or the transition from one type of finish to another;

visually make the room wider (transverse arrangement) or longer (longitudinal arrangement);

“ground down” disproportionately high ceilings to make the room psychologically more comfortable. To do this, they are often attached below the main level;

highlight functional areas by dividing the room with one transverse beam with built-in lights or by placing several in one part;

false beams hollow inside, having a box section - an ideal way to covertly lay electrical wires, pipes, air ducts and other communications, as well as the installation of built-in lamps without installing a false ceiling, which reduces the height of the room.

In order for the interior to look advantageous, not to be overloaded with unnecessary details, it is necessary, of course, to take into account the parameters of the room. For example, if the ceiling height is small, the distance between the ceiling beams should be made wider, and they themselves should be less voluminous.

And sometimes the beams do not have to be installed by ourselves - they already exist and are load-bearing structures that annoy the residents with their appearance. But any disadvantage can always be turned into a virtue if you know the tricks of how to beat the beam, harmoniously fitting it into the interior.

But I still want to talk not about the aesthetic, but about the practical side of the issue: how these decorative elements - ready-made or home-made - are made and installed.

Wooden

Wood products are massive - from solid wood, and prefabricated - from individual boards. Most often, durable and practical conifers are used for their manufacture.

In any case, the wood must be dry and clean, free of rot and insect damage. And so that they do not appear in the future, it is treated with antiseptic compounds.

Method 1 - push-through mounting

This method is used to install massive beams from a bar, for which a through hole is drilled in it to fit the size of the fastener, and it is screwed directly to the base.

The choice of fasteners depends on the base material:

If it is a tree, long self-tapping screws are sufficient, screwed in increments of 15-30 cm, depending on the thickness and weight of the decorative element.
If finishing is done in a block or brick house with concrete floor slabs, dowel nails or anchors are needed.

Fastener caps must be recessed into the body of the beam. After installation, these holes are sealed with putty on wood of a suitable shade.

Method 2 - suspended

Here, special metal linings are used on the wall with a nest in which the end of the beam lies.

This method is convenient when the beams need to be lowered below the ceiling level or when they cannot be stitched through due to the small section of the mounting edge. For example, as in the case of using a thick board placed on edge.

The overlays are subsequently hidden under a layer of plaster or cladding. If such a finish is not planned, they can be disguised by wrapping chains, ropes and other decorative ornaments that match the style around the ends.

Method 3 - to the console

Another option on how to fix the beam without touching the ceiling is to lay it with its ends on the consoles fixed on the wall at the desired height.

The last two methods are the only possible ones for light suspended plasterboard or stretch ceilings, if you have not thought about embedded elements in advance. But they can only be used for solid beams that are not spliced along the length. And they themselves should not be very long, otherwise they will sag over time, not being fixed along the entire length.

If you take a long and heavy beam, then the only way to correct the deflection of the beam is to install props under it. But they can be beaten by turning them into decorative columns or racks with shelves.

Method 4 - fastening false beams to bars

Wooden false beams can be bought or made by yourself. To do this, you need well-dried edged boards. If you take raw ones, then even with a perfect fit of the joints, they will become noticeable over time, as the wood will dry out.

Depending on the availability of tools, such boxes can be made in two ways: with a saw cut of the ends under 45 0 and without saw cuts. In the first case, you will need this tool:

We take three boards, outline the dimensions and saw off in length and width. At this stage, you can immediately carry out a preliminary decorative finish of each plank. For example, age the surface by removing soft fibers from the top layer with a metal brush or a drill attachment.

Then, with a plunge saw, we cut off one longitudinal side of the side planks, and two of the front ones.

We lubricate the joints with glue - carpentry, PVA or special furniture, press them together and fix the joint with finishing nails or just thin carnations with bitten off hats.

When the structure sets, we grind the outer corners with sandpaper, if there are gaps, we close them with putty, after which it dries, we grind again and cover the entire part with a decorative composition - varnish, impregnation,.

Now about how to make a similar false beam, if there is nothing to carefully cut off the ends. To do this, after cutting and grinding the blanks, small bars of the same length are screwed to the side parts from the inside. Self-tapping screws should enter the body of the board, but not come out.

Then, holes are drilled in each bar on adjacent faces between the attachment points to fix the front panel.

Before screwing the front bar, glue must also be applied to the lower edges of the bars. Further - the same processing as in the previous version.

Despite the fact that such ceiling beams much lighter than massive ones, they still have a decent weight, so you need to fasten them securely. To do this, first a thick board is attached to the ceiling with a width equal to the internal distance between the side walls of the box. Instead of a board, you can take a couple of bars, as in the next photo.

It remains to put the false beam on the bars and fix it with self-tapping screws, drowning the hats and filling the recesses with putty. If the box is relatively light, you can do it with finishing nails more often - they are unlikely to be noticeable at such a height.

Plasterboard

Drywall is a versatile material. From it you can make a design of any shape, even curved. And the beam is the same box that many make around the perimeter of the ceiling for installing spotlights. Only in our case they will go across it.

Method 5 - on a metal frame

I do not think that there is a need to explain something in detail to those who have already dealt with drywall. And for those who did not have, you can read articles on this topic, where everything is described in detail. Therefore, briefly and in pictures.

After finishing putty, you can finish such ceiling beams in any way: paint, wallpaper, tile, etc.

Method 6 - on a wooden frame

Everything is the same, only the frame is made of wooden bars. They will also help solve the difficult task of how to beat a beam on the ceiling in an apartment: if it looks unpresentable, it is enough to fix even rails on it and sheathe it with drywall.

you can add similar parallel or transverse beams;

or build similar boxes around the perimeter;

if the intersecting beams are pasted over with polyurethane moldings, puttied and painted, it will look like a coffered ceiling in a classic style;

Finished items

It is absolutely not necessary to invent and make something yourself, since decorative beams can be bought ready-made. They are made from wood-like materials - chipboard, plywood, MDF with veneer, staining, lamination. And also from plastic as cable channels and from polyurethane.

The latest products are distinguished by a variety of designs and shapes. Most often, they imitate wood, and so believable that it is impossible to distinguish them from natural material.

In addition to aesthetic external parameters, they are lightweight and moisture resistant. The lightness of the product allows you to mount it even to plasterboard ceilings without the installation of mortgages, and moisture resistance - to hide water pipes and air conditioning systems in them, and the fight against condensate on the ceiling under the beams will no longer be a problem.

For each type of finished beams, their own installation methods have been developed.

Method 7 - on wedge bars

In this way, light polyurethane beams are mounted on the ceiling. The whole process is shown in the picture:

The distance between the inner walls of the box is measured, short wedge-shaped bars are cut to this size.
Marking is done on the ceiling.
A hole is drilled in the bars for a mounting screw or anchor, and they are screwed along the marking line in increments of 1 meter, including at the junction of the elements, if any.
The ends of the bars and beams are lubricated with glue.
Decorative elements are carefully “fitted” onto the bars, pressed against the plane of the ceiling and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.

Since the joints of polyurethane products cannot be sanded and covered with putty, they are decorated. You can use coarse twine, rope, staples and other improvised means.

Method 8 - using guides

Some companies produce decorative beams with hidden fasteners. These are metal rails mounted on the ceiling, to which the beams are attached with special clamps.

The guides can be not only metal, but also made of the same material as the decorative box itself, but without finishing - it is still not visible after installation.

Depending on the size, everything can be hidden in them - from wires to air ducts.

Method 9 - cable beams

This is the cheapest, but also the most artificial kind of our decorative element. It is possible to suspect a real wooden beam in it only with a good imagination, since plastic betrays itself in spite of neither the pattern nor the wood-like coloring.

The channel itself is attached to the wall or ceiling, and after laying any type of communications in it, the cover snaps into place on it. Everything is simple and fast, but hardly suitable for creating a warm home interior. Although for hi-tech and minimalism - why not? You can even take white or colored without imitation wood.

If the support beam

Supporting structures also need finishing. If you want to hide the beams completely, they are simply included in the frame system for sheathing with slab materials, clapboard or panels.

But this is not always possible if the ceiling height is small. For example, in a bathhouse or an old house. Then it remains only to veneer the beam itself with wood or, if the size allows, “dress” it in a polyurethane cover.

But what if the beam is bent or cracked, and there is a danger that it will not withstand the load from the ceiling? There are at least three ways to solve this problem yourself.

The first is the installation of a retaining beam. I already mentioned him.
The second way to strengthen the beam is to pull it together with metal strips. For this, her first prop up, returning to the original level, then long strips of metal with a thickness of at least 5 mm are applied on both sides, they are drilled every 15-20 cm and tightened through the beam with bolts. After that, the support can be removed.

The third is to use a bar of the same section on one side instead of metal plates. After installing the support, it is pulled together with the main studs.

Of course, there is no need to talk about the aesthetics of beams reinforced in such ways, therefore, after repair, it is also desirable to ennoble them by covering them with a box made of wood or drywall.

Conclusion

Since in the near future, if everything goes well, we are going to buy a wooden house, the problem of its electrification and water supply worries me now: I don’t like wires and pipes in plain sight. And the ceiling beams, which nothing can prevent me from installing on the walls, perfectly solve these problems, at the same time satisfying the suddenly awakened craving for rustic comfort.

If some of the readers have solved them in a similar way, I will be grateful for the photo and description in the comments to this article.

November 9, 2016

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