Synchronizing the operation of an electric tool with a vacuum cleaner. Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair
When working with wood, you cannot do without a chip extractor or vacuum cleaner. If during prolonged work, for example, when working on a thicknesser, circular or milling machine The chip ejector is easy to turn on manually, but when you turn on a tool for a short time, such as a hand-held circular saw, a hand-held milling cutter, manually turning on and off the vacuum cleaner every time is painfully troublesome. Often, when you get carried away, you forget to either turn it on or off. Therefore, the presenter of the video channel “” decided to make a device that allows you to automatically turn on a chip extractor or vacuum cleaner synchronously when you turn on the tool. Similar to the one that is equipped with some models of industrial construction vacuum cleaners.
I decided to take as a basis such a circuit for synchronous switching, published in the magazine “Radio”. True, there was a mistake in it. The circuit connecting the left terminal of resistor R1 to the cathode of diode VD1 must be broken. Redrawn the diagram more clearly. When you turn on the power tool, current begins to flow through the diodes VD2...VD5.
The voltage falling across them through resistor R1 is applied to the control electrode of the triac and opens it. Through a triac, power supply is supplied to the vacuum cleaner and it turns on. The maximum power of a tool is determined by the maximum permissible current through the diodes, and of a chip blower or vacuum cleaner - by the maximum permissible current through a triac. I chose the parts based on the load of 2 kW.
The triac can withstand a maximum forward current of 12 A, the diodes can be any rectifier, designed for a maximum forward current of at least 6 A and a reverse voltage of at least 200 V. The device is assembled on a printed circuit board made of single-sided foil PCB. On the left is a view of the board from the printed circuit side, and on the right is a diagram of the arrangement of hinged elements on the board. To make the board I took a piece of PCB.
Let's cut out a drawing of the board from paper and paste it onto the PCB. Using a drill with a diameter of 1 mm, we will drill holes for the radio components, and with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm, we will drill mounting holes in the corners of the board. We will make the board mechanically, by cutting insulating grooves between the printed conductors. To do this we will use a cutter. The cutter can be easily made from a piece of hacksaw blade. I haven’t specifically cut the board to size yet, since it’s more convenient to attach and cut through the foil on a large sheet of PCB. Let's cut the board to size and remove the excess foil with a scalpel. We will sand the board, check the quality of the cut grooves and, if necessary, correct the tracks. Let's cover the contact pads with flux and tin them using shielding braid.
We use rosin dissolved in alcohol as a flux. Let's start installing the parts. According to the wiring diagram, we will insert all the parts into the board and bend the legs on the back side so that the parts do not fall out. We cut off the legs with pliers, leaving the length of the curved ends 2...3 mm. Apply flux to the contact pads and solder the parts to the board. Solder the mounting wires and connect the sockets according to the diagram. A vacuum cleaner and tool are connected to the outlet. Let's check the functionality of the device. This is a power outlet.
For clarity, we use a 60 W incandescent lamp as a vacuum cleaner. We plug it into the outlet. The tool we use is a 400 W eccentric sander. We plug in the device. We turn on the machine. Works! Instead of a lamp, we will connect a vacuum cleaner. Its power is 1300 W. We heard it works. The parts are not heating up yet. It is necessary to check for heating during prolonged operation or by connecting a more powerful tool.
Let's determine the minimum power of the tool that can be connected to this device. Let's connect the vacuum cleaner. Instead of a tool, we will connect a 60 W incandescent lamp. We connect the device to the network. Lamp. Runs at full power. Therefore, 60 W is enough for a vacuum cleaner. In this case, the workshop does not have a tool with a power of less than 60 W, for which it is needed. So we can assume that 60 W is the minimum load. Actually, I made a board for synchronous operation of the devices specifically to control the chip ejector for my miter saw. I found an old Soviet “Whirlwind” in a landfill. It is planned to make a chip pump out of it. Let's check if the board works with the unit. Insert the plug from the vacuum cleaner into the outlet. Miter saw. Let's check. The vacuum cleaner is working. It sucks air well. The radiator is cold, but the diodes have warmed up a little... - the power of the saw is considerable - after all, 1800 W. How it is planned to make a chip extractor out of this vacuum cleaner is a subject for a separate discussion.
Such a device turned out. Based on it, we also plan to make a power regulator for our angle grinder. We often use it to clean boards from dirt, cement and sand, as well as to sand logs. 12 thousand revolutions is still too much for purposes.
Discussion
Oleg Dedukh
3 days ago
Good afternoon. Could you email me the PCB file? [email protected]
DIY carpentry
3 days ago
Get it here: https://goo.gl/AaYLhz. Good luck!
Alexander Kuzmin
What do you think about connecting a 220 to 12 volt step-down transformer and a fan from the laptop motherboard to this circuit? on x1 we connect the phase (L) of the 220 volt transformer, and on x2 we connect the N neutral of the transformer, then on the step-down part of the 12 volt transformer we connect a fan to L and N, then when you turn on the vacuum cleaner, will the fan immediately turn on and cool the diodes and resistors?
DIY carpentry
1 month ago
Aleksandr Kuzmin It could be like that. I installed the board inside the vacuum cleaner body (see my video about the vacuum cleaner) and the problem with the airflow disappeared by itself.
Igor Shiganov
1 month ago
Please tell me. I assembled everything according to the diagram. A vacuum cleaner with 2 engines of 1.3 currents took all the parts with a reserve. I connected it via the phase change button to the vacuum cleaner so that it could be turned on independently. The first switch-on went with a bang, in one position of the key the vacuum cleaner worked separately, and in another position when the tool was turned on. After a couple of minutes, and the vacuum cleaner’s motors weren’t even working, the AD12 socket protection triggered and now the vacuum cleaner turns on at any position of the three-position switch. What could be the reason?
DIY carpentry
1 month ago
Igor Shiganov The triac burned out. Apparently it overheated. Look at the comments, you will find answers to your questions there. Good luck!
SanSay 16RUS
3 month ago
I assembled this miracle and... it works))), but the question is, why does the triac heat up? After all, it seems to be 12 amperes, but in my case, 7 amperes flow through it (the dust is 1400 W, and the actual ones are even less). Of course, I just put it on a strip of aluminum, but still. In 2 minutes it heats up to 60 degrees.
DIY carpentry
3 month ago
I said that the triac must be placed on the radiator. It is small, but you need to dissipate a lot of power. Therefore, such devices, regardless of the rated direct current, should always be installed on radiators. Glad everything worked out for you. Good luck!SanSay 16RUS
3 month ago
I read about these triacs - it turns out that it’s normal that they heat up... supposedly that’s how they are designed and the normal temperature for them is even 100 degrees, but in short they need to be cooled somehow - I went to a metal reception center and for 100 rubles I bought a radiator from them for the PC PC , aluminum, round 90mm, with a bunch of ribs and... in 5 minutes neither the triac nor the radiator even heated up to 30 degrees!
Well... a strip of aluminum up to 60 g. in 2 minutes and a normal radiator in 5 minutes up to 30... 35 years, and study, study and study again)))
Every carpentry shop should have a vacuum cleaner. Usually people start with a simple household one, then build some kind of extensions for it, and then often purchase construction vacuum cleaners. They are more powerful, more spacious, and have a socket on the body that is synchronized with the connected tool.
This construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter was made by a handy guy named Fedor Medvedev. The idea is cool, the execution didn’t let us down either, in general, there’s a lot to learn.
The main materials used were waste materials, namely chipboard scraps, in addition to a piece of fiberglass with epoxy, and an engine from a vacuum cleaner with a turbine (I wasn’t too lazy to look - on the Internet for Avito 400 rubles).
For the work you needed: a jigsaw, chipboard scraps, a cone and a pipe (as matrices), fiberglass and epoxy resin, an engine with a turbine (2 kW), a speed controller circuit, a pair of sockets.
Electro-mechanical part of the work. 
Initially, the cyclone was intended to be made from a 160-mm sewer PVC pipe, but this material is highly electrified by dust, which may create operational difficulties in the future. Therefore, fiberglass was chosen as the material for the cyclone. The bases for the cyclone filter (conical and cylindrical) were glued together from fiberglass. The cone and pipe served as the matrix. 
After the templates have dried, they are removed from the matrix and the assembly of the swirler begins. The body is glued together, inlet and outlet pipes are installed (from 50 mm PVC pipe). 
The hole in the body is sealed with cardboard, which is covered on top with a couple of layers of fiberglass. 
The swirler is designed to spin the air flow with dust and other dirt at an angle of 33 degrees (the angle corresponds to industrial cyclones TsN 33). The cover and base of the cyclone filter are disks made of chipboard. The base also serves as a lid for the dust container (40 liter plastic barrel). 
Holes are cut in the center for flowing dust and for the outlet pipe. And the separator is glued into its original place. 
We're done with the cyclone. Let's move on to the fine filter (not all the dust goes into the tank, its small fractions in relatively small quantities are drawn up and negatively affect the operation of the engine). For its body, 11 simple rings were cut from laminated chipboard. 
And one snowflake ring. This shape was chosen to redirect the air flow from the center outward, which has a beneficial effect on the filtration surface. 
This ring fits onto the cover of the cyclone separator. After which all the rings are glued together (epoxy resin was used). The body was impregnated with it (to give it tightness and an aesthetic appearance).
We install the compartment with the filter on the cyclone separator. To eliminate the load on the latter, additional spacers are included in the design. 
The engine compartment is made in a similar way (it is only necessary to make holes for air to escape). The engine is attached to the filter with lanyards (to make it possible to replace the fine filter if necessary). 
A plastic box with electrical diagram the entire vacuum cleaner. The socket is required for synchronous connection of power tools. 
The right button is to turn on the vacuum cleaner in manual mode, the left button is the automatic mode, in which the vacuum cleaner turns on when the power tool connected to it is turned on. The power regulator is marked in a circle.
The power supply circuit for the motor with a speed controller (built on the basis of a triac) was taken from a household vacuum cleaner, but the variable resistor was replaced in it to make it more convenient to connect it to the housing. In principle, you can use a simple
Synchronous start circuit, taken from the network 
During the tests, it was found that the degree of cleaning exceeds the results of factory-made household vacuum cleaners with cyclones (using the example of Samsung, 1.6 kW). It took the author 5,000 rubles from the budget (but these are Moscow prices, of which the engine is 1,000 rubles + 600 rubles delivery), I roughly estimated that it could be done in half that amount. 
Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade products for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.
To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).
I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in in a good way this expression).
I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!
I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.
The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:
The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, the engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).
The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.
A suitable tin can was very useful for the cyclone body, and the central pipe was made from a can of polyurethane foam.
The inlet pipe is made to fit a 50 mm plastic sewer pipe into which the hose in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.
The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.
I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)
The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.
The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.
The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.
For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.
The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and fluoroplastic nuts to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto sealant.
To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin, I used latches from military wooden boxes (special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).
After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure with polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.
For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.
The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.
When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.
The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.
To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and, using a metal profile (thick sponge rubber is inserted into it), pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.
Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).
I made a hole for the outlet pipe.
I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.
The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.
Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:
Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.
The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.
To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.
The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.
To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.
In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.
To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.
The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.
CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:
The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.
The main disadvantages of this design:
— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.
— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from industrial vacuum cleaner(but the question arises of the price from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.
— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.
— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.
Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.
In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And a special big thank you to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.
I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.
The synchronous soft start module is designed to synchronize the operation, smooth start and shutdown of any power tool. For example, using such a device, you can synchronize the operation of an angle grinder, router, hammer drill or any other tool on one side, and a vacuum cleaner on the other.
When you press the power tool button (socket 2), the vacuum cleaner engine (socket 1) starts smoothly, and when you turn it off, the vacuum cleaner engine runs for another 6 seconds and turns off (provided that the power button is in the on state).
The use of a soft start system unit allows you to reduce starting currents, reduce the likelihood of motor overheating, increase service life, and eliminate jerks in the mechanical part of the drive at the time of starting and stopping the electric motor.
Photos 1, 2, 3 Appearance and dimensions of the soft synchronous start unit for power tools
Along with the effect of a soft start, such a unit allows you to reduce active power consumption, significantly reduce reactive power, protect the engine, reduce noise, heating and vibration of the electric motor.
The synchronous soft starter is equipped with a 2 meter long cable.
The total power of the power tool connected to sockets 1 and 2 should not exceed 3.5 kW. To implement the synchronous start function, the power of the device connected to socket 2 must be at least 150 W.
Price - 700 UAH.
Photo 4. Remote control system key fob.
Photo 4 shows the key fob of the remote control system. This function can be added to the synchronous starter module. Range of action - up to 30m. Button A turns on, button B turns off socket 1. It is also possible to connect additional key fobs.
- The cost of the remote control system is 350 UAH
Remote control module with the function of synchronous start of vacuum cleaner drives (remote control module with SP)
Photo 5 - Remote control module with the function of synchronous start of vacuum cleaner drives (remote control module with SP). Photo 6 - Connection diagram of the remote control module with SP.
The remote control module with SP (photo 5) allows you not only to remotely turn on the vacuum cleaner drives, but also to synchronize the start of the power tool with the activation of the vacuum cleaner drives. In this case, it is enough to connect this device to the wiring of your workshop or workshop (as shown in photo 6) and the vacuum cleaner will turn on simultaneously with any power tool included in this circuit. The vacuum cleaner will turn off 6 seconds after the power tool is turned off to remove any remaining dust in the hoses. A button on the device body allows you to turn the synchronous start function on and off if necessary. In position "1" only drive A is turned on synchronously, in position "2" - drives A and B, and in position "0" the synchronous start function is disabled and the drives are turned on only from the remote control.
Price - 1800 UAH.
